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This is alumium free service of Chesapeake Light Craft for the legions of builders who want to foruum another boat, but need to make room in their garage. Just as the title suggests, the Homebuilt Boat Bazaar is off limits to for-profit builders and businesses.
The service is restricted to amateur boatbuilders and homebuilt boats whether you personally built the boat or not. Chesapeake Aluminum boat building forum korea Craft will review all submissions and reserves the right to reject listings. Note: Listings older than 90 days will be purged from the Bazaar.
Feel free to post your listing. Chesapeake Light Craft has not inspected any of the boats listed for sale and aluminum boat building forum korea not make any express or implied warranties regarding the accuracy of the ad or safety of the boat for sale. Caveat Emptor.
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This will evolve, with more detail added. John's discussion of the design, with drawings and photos, is. Light and nimble, this is a good solution for someone with limited dinghy storage space, and the need to carry the boat solo across the parking lot.
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No provision for outboard power or a sailing rig exists or will be made available. Drop us a line if you have questions about this korsa design! Receive our Boatbuilder Updates for much more! Boatbuilding Supplies. Development Projects.
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Passagemaker Oar Lock Riser Busted. Epoxy coating components before assembly. Fitting an electric motor to the Northeaster Dory. Passagemaker Forgot aluminum boat building forum korea celloFill! Passagemaker: When to remove hull stitches? Passagemaker take apart and sailing package for Shearwater Sport Hybrid and Nymph 12 for sale.
Building Photos Laminating the Skeg. Aluminum boat building forum korea the Doublers. Cleaning up Epoxy Squeeze-out. Pre-coating Transoms, Frame, and Stringer. Rounding Over the Transoms. Finished Transom Handles. Hull Parts Ready for Assembly. Adding the Center Frame. Aligning Mortises and Tenons. Adding the Longitudinal Stringer. Stitching Stringer to Bottom Panel.
Dropping Stern Transom into Place. Ready for the Side Planks. Adding the 2 Panels. Adding the 3 Panels. Bow Stitching Detail. Tightening the Wires. Ready for LapStitch Joint Panels 4, 5, 6.
Stitching on Panels 4, 5, 6. Adding Stitch Holes. Buuilding Assembly. Tack-Welding the Hull. Transom Tack-Welds. Removing the Wires. Epoxy Fillets.
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For example, angles can be substituted for tee's and vice versa. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel. You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar.
Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the Aluminum Boat Building Materials Korea and series, the latter typically being extrusions.
Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H With these choices, you should be able to find everything you'll need to build your own boat.
However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases.
The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Many have substitution guides you can use to suit what's stocked. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt.
However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.
In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel.
In effect, such frames are "floating" within the hull, and are used to support and reduce the span of longitudinals which are the primary members stiffening the hull plating.
About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating.
The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides. As shown before, Fig. Backing members such as in 'C' and 'D' help tie frame members together when setting up and help define the chine line to assure a smooth, fair curve.
Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. The example in 'E' includes a built-in spray deflector, and can be bent along its length as required to conform to an ever-changing angle between the side and bottom that commonly occurs.
Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. Whether such welding is done both sides depends on plating thickness and a builder's desires. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities.
Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat. An alternative that provides much the same effect is the tee-bar in 'C'; this is easy to bend and is usually readily available. However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.
A lower cost alternative is a simple round bar in 'D'; this adds abrasion protection to an often vulnerable corner. But if too large a diameter, won't provide the crisp edge needed for higher-speed planing boats you could add a flat bar deflector edge-wise against the bar slightly above the corner that might help, however.
Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work Aluminum Boat Building Forum Guitar to when fitting side and bottom plates. A simple corner joint with side and bottom butting together as in 'A' is technically feasible, but is more difficult to fit and make fair.
A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard. In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary backing member may aid in fitting. Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines.
As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available. The cheapest and most easily obtained is the simple flat bar 'A'. These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate.
Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed.
Angles as in 'B' are usually easy to get and have good strength to weight, but the asymmetrical shape may make bending in two planes difficult.
Tee's 'C' present a symmetrical shape that forms more easily. Inverted channels 'D' are also an effective stiffener, but rectangular tubes 'F' , and "I's" 'E' are largely overkill since that portion of the member against the hull adds weight with little or no gain in strength, but at a higher cost. On the other hand, the special hull stiffening channel configuration sometimes available as in 'G' makes an effective stiffener.
A less effective member strength-wise is the split pipe or tube as in 'H' which is sometimes also stocked as a ready-made stiffener. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type.
One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig. This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating. Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent.
A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs. These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found. Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating.
Additional thickness may be required - at least in the area of the cut-out - either through the use of doublers or thick inserts. A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding.
Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig.
The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape. There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members.
A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less.
Advocates of heavier plating and framing counter that thicker plating is stiffer which better resists flexing, twist, and fatigue, won't dent as easily, and will deter longer any effects of corrosion.
Then too, they claim thicker plating is less prone to distortion by welding heat and it's easier to make stronger joints since it's more likely that both sides of joints can be welded without problems or defects.
In addition, thicker members are often easier to handle and work since they resist distortion and are not so "floppy". Who's right? As a designer I feel there's validity in both camps, but with some qualifiers. First, there is a natural tendency among builders in any material to over-build and second-guess the designer, even when a boat uses the heavier plating approach initially.
The typical idea is that if so much is good, then a little more must be better. The result is that such boats weigh more than the designer predicted. And who gets the blame when the boat doesn't perform up to predictions? You guessed it - NOT the builder. In other words, I'd favor the latter change but might question a plating increase. Much depends on the boat and its expected service. For pleasure boats, I tend to favor lighter scantlings, but for more rigorous duty, heavier construction may be justified.
However, rather than simply increase plating thickness, you might get similar results by adding a few more internal stiffening members instead. An appealing possibility on metal boats is tanks integral with the hull, which is acceptable for diesel fuel but not gasoline. Because the hull shell plating provides one or more of the tank sides, and internal tank members can double as hull stiffening members, such tanks can save material and add capacity without taking up more room.
However, I favor separate tanks for boats less than about 40' for the following reasons. First, tanks might be of such a size or located in such a position that welding tight seams all around the perimeter is difficult if not impractical. Second, because full welds are required, there is a greater chance of heat buildup and ultimate hull plating distortion.
Finally, special consideration must be given at the intersections of tank ends, hull stiffening members, and internal tank baffles when required.
Attempting to fit and weld tank ends tightly around stiffeners that pass through the tank is tedious if not impossible. Instead, hull stiffeners should stop at tank ends, with similar members cut and fitted inside, or with internal baffles installed in line with such stiffeners as substitutes and to maintain continuity. Conversely separate tanks built outside the hull are physically easier to manipulate during assembly and welding, easier to test and assure integrity, easier to repair or replace, and not as likely to suffer damage in a collision.
Aluminum tank thickness is sometimes shown as a function of tank capacity such as the following:. To 50 Gals:. However, for practical purposes, most tanks should be at least. Thicker tanks also require less stiffening, and since plating material is usually suitable, no special thinner stock need be ordered as might be implied from the above list.
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