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Builders Difference � LIFE PROOF BOATS

Over 50 Years of Perfecting Fishability. Everyone says they have it. Some even say they invented it. More deck space for you and your partner, faster hole shots, more stability and a smoother, dryer ride.

And, we pack in all the pro-level fishing features and an industry-setting aluminum boat building parts zero you demand.

Adjustable and Pop-Up Cleats For a clean, no-fishline-snagging, optional and standard cleats are placed in angler savvy and dock ready locations. Heavy-Duty Floor Options Fishing can get messy! Storage Compartments To handle all your storage needs various models include up to four individual storage boxes � aft and bow decks. Even our competitors agree that aluminum boat building parts zero Lowe Boat is one of the best handling, smoothest riding, sharpest turning and driest built.

What makes Lowe different? The answer is in our unique Mod-V and Deep-V hull design technology. Even our competitors agree that a Lowe Mod-V is one of the best handling, smoothest riding, sharpest turning and driest Mod-Vs built.

These exceptional hulls are the result of 50 years of performance-focused development backed by aluminum boat building parts zero angler input. Convenient Storage Lockable dry storage glove box for smaller valuables. Dual console models. Marine Audio Stereo with one pair of 50w speakers. Optional on some models. The meticulous attention to every design detail is exceptional.

You can see the difference in the precision anti-fog, luminescent instruments and feel the difference in the handsome, ergonomic wheel and switches. Premium Instruments Precision back-lighted, plug and play instruments with chrome bezels; tach, speed, fuel, aluminum boat building parts zero, and tilt.

Lowe is located in the heart of the Ozarks where old world, hand-worked craftsmanship is renowned. Our boats are meticulously assembled entirely by hand using strictly-controlled CAD designed specifications and advanced manufacturing technologies.

Ultra-Strong Transom The reinforced and aluminum boat building parts zero transom, secures power and ensures lasting durability. Pressure Injected Foam We use a unique pressure foam injection process to fill in the deck for a strong, sound, and safe ride. All Welded - No Rivets. With super-strong.

This rugged aluminum is precision plasma arc cut, and handcrafted with continuously welded seams for unmatched strength, durability and a lasting watertight fit. For added confidence, all hull seams include a Lifetime Limited Warranty. Premium Marine Grade Paint Application. Perhaps the most visible difference in a Lowe is its' lasting good looks. During our multi-step process hulls are hand-sanded, cleaned and acid etched, then coated with a tough zinc chromate primer.

A finish coat aluminum boat building parts zero high-grade polyurethane enamel is electrostatically applied for superior adhesion and then slowly oven baked at ' for a lasting hi-gloss appearance. The resulting finish is highly durable and wont flake off, orange peel or experience pin holes like a powder coat finish. Industry Leading 10 Year Hull Warranty. Lowe Boats is respected for taking its warranty obligations to you very seriously.

We are also well known aluminum boat building parts zero highly dependable and trouble-free products. However should a warranty issue occur, our goal is to make your warranty experience as hassle-free as possible and get you back on the water as quickly as possible.

Hull Seam Limited Warranty Lowe will repair or replace any structural defect in material or workmanship in the hull seams reported during original purchaser's ownership.

Hull Limited Warranty Lowe will repair or replace a defect in any other part of Aluminum Boat Building Parts 45 the hull reported within 10 years of the date of delivery to the original purchaser, following a pro rated schedule. Transferable Warranty Lowe boat warranties are transferable through your local Lowe dealer adding to the resale value of your boat. If the boat is sold during its warranty period, the standard component warranty coverage and prorated 10 year warranty coverage will carry over to the new owner once the warranty is transferred through an authorized Lowe dealer.

Limitations and restrictions apply. See your local Lowe dealer for details. Like Money in the Bank. Lots of boat companies claim to have a aluminum boat building parts zero resale value.

At Lowe we let the N. According to these official price guides for used boats, Lowe Boats rank aluminum boat building parts zero one of the highest in resale value. Based on and pricing in the N. All Lowe Boats are specifically engineered to integrate a range of Mercury outboards with each boat model to ensure optimum compatibility and performance.

Mercury continues to be the benchmark in proven outboard technology and innovation. For specific information regarding Lowe Boats that interest you:. At Lowe Boats, we strive to keep your aluminum boat building parts zero information personal, our policies simple and our boats the best in the industry.

As part of that commitment, we have recently updated our privacy policy. Stay the Course - In Style. Mod-V Construction. Deep-V Construction. Your Favorite Fishing Hole? Your Personal Information? This website uses cookies to enhance and improve your browsing experience. For further information on how we use cookies and how to change your browser settings, please read our Cookie Policy.

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The Aluminum Association of the United States has developed a naming system for the various alloys found commercially available, of which there are over registered designations. Of the commercially available variations, four are most commonly used in the Marine Industry: , , , and Typically, these alloys have a heat number of H3, which means they have been strain hardened and stabilized.

All alloys use magnesium as the principal alloying element. This makes the aluminum easier to weld, which is important for construction. This aluminum alloy is not as susceptible to cracking during the forming process and is also the least expensive of the common marine alloys.

Aluminum alloy is commonly used by the US Navy. This aluminum alloy is widely used in chemical and marine environments where corrosion resistance is crucial and can also withstand extremely cold temperatures without becoming brittle. Considered the superior alloy for marine environments, has similar characteristics of , but with added strength.

This alloy is so close to its brother that the two are arguably interchangeable. The main benefit of this aluminum alloy is its increased corrosion resistance properties, especially in salt water. It is the most popular choice for hull bottoms and side sheets. This is a great general-purpose alloy.

It also has excellent finishing characteristics, so it can be used in areas that are highly visible to increase the aesthetics of the project. This added strength comes at a cost though, as this alloy is not as easily formable, is more prone to fracturing, and is only available in limited sizes. At Naimor, we partner with clients to maximize simplify the boat building process. We work with naval architects, designers, builders, and fabricators to help them build the best boat possible.

Plans listed for aluminum construction include all the details necessary to build the boat in sheet aluminum. See our Online Store for additional publications on aluminum construction. Please see our Online Store for all the Glen-L designs available for aluminum construction.

The following can be used as a general guideline for selecting materials. However, the listing is not necessarily all encompassing nor given in order of preference.

To figure hull cost, use weight of hull times cost per pound. For further information on welding, see WeldingTipsandTricks. The number of people with aluminum welding skills and access to fabricating equipment has increased considerably over the years. Yet many are unaware of fundamental considerations confronting the short-handed amateur building a single boat for his own account. The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting.

Thus there may be a tendency to want to apply mass-production techniques to the construction of just a single boat. But building a single boat yourself is considerably different from one built on a production line, and thus may require certain adjustments and even a revised mind set on the part of the builder.

First, there is no one, superior way to build an aluminum boat. In fact, there can be many suitable approaches and variations. Consider the following. Because production builders are always thinking up ways to cut labor and material costs, and time required to build boats, they evolve specialized methods and materials that help toward these ends even if there is not necessarily any improvement in the boat itself.

For example, they may use special proprietary extrusions to expedite some assembly process such as joining side and bottom plating at the chine see Fig. Alternately, your chines might then be backed with a simple round bar Fig. None of these methods is necessarily superior, but just different due to circumstances. Also, production builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded first.

These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig.

In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality. Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone.

First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat. Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high.

Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i. Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats.

First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service. But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement.

The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel. But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines.

This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up. Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel.

Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e. Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression.

Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold. In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i.

But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.

And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation. Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc.

In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.

However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar.

And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.

If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible.

Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel. You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make.

Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions.

Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes.

Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin.

The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse Aluminum Boat Building Books Zero frames only as required to maintain hull shape.

In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat.

In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating. The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull.

The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides. As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best.

However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities.

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