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That is to say, one metal must be less active in the electrochemical schoolyard than the other. In the electrochemical series, Magnesium is the most active metal followed by Zinc then our friend Aluminium, followed by Iron, Steel, Brass, etc.

All you have to worry about is fouling. Use bottom paint to keep your boat clean. But if you want to play it safe, a protective painting that uses an electrical barrier to keep water from aluminum is good for boats in both types of water. When painting your boat, however, the aluminum potion above the waterline can be left bare.

This is because, with continuous exposure to oxygen, the aluminum part will develop a protective aluminum oxide layer that stops further corrosion. Worth mentioning is that the electro-conductivity of saltwater increases with rising water temperature.

So, boats in warmer coasts like Florida experience more galvanic corrosion than boats in the Chesapeake Bay. The galvanic reaction between an aluminum lower unit and a stainless-steel propeller in a boat shows the corrosive effects of saltwater. The aluminum is more chemically active than steel, so it is the anode, and steel is the cathode.

Electrons flow from the more chemically active aluminum lower unit via the saltwater to the stainless-steel propeller. The aluminum metal atoms that lose electrons become ions and are free to bind with the oxygen in the water to form aluminum oxide. Some of the aluminum oxide molecules drift away while the other settles onto the aluminum surface. The bottom line, though, much thought goes into building an aluminum boat for those coastal waters.

Most builders give it all they can use the right accessories, proper welding, and assembly. Watch out for those aluminum anodes and replace them yearly or when they get more than half corroded.

Also, you can use sacrificial zinc anodes in conjunction with aluminum anodes. What are sacrificial anodes on a boat, and how do they work? Sacrificial anodes are anodes made of more electrochemically active metals such as Zinc that are electrically connected to the aluminum components to save the aluminum parts from corrosion.

The Zinc anode sacrifices itself by giving its electrons to the aluminum so that aluminum loses those instead of its won electrons. That way, boatbuilders have managed to save aluminum components in boats. But do not go crazy stuffing zinc everywhere. You can also use milli-volts to arrive at the number of sacrificial anodes needed. Place the silver chloride electrode in the water. Just turn off the engine, flush out the saltwater, and run fresh water through it for minutes to remove all salty residues.

If you do this religiously, your engine will stay in good shape. Modern outboards feature garden-hose attachments that make it easier to wash everything down when back at the docks. You can also Aluminum Boats And Saltwater Yellow add products such as CRC Salt Terminator to cleanse those internal components thoroughly. Either way, always flush the engine thoroughly after docking. Additionally, manifolds only last years in salt water, so be prepared for replacements in addition to replacing water pumps, and risers when they get too wasted.

As mentioned earlier, the best paints are those that establish a robust electrical barrier between the water and the aluminum. Remember to replace the paintwork often. Use nylon plugs and washers to isolate other metals from aluminum. For example, use silicone-sealed nylon plugs on hull compartment drains and separate steel-made bolts from aluminum using nylon washers. Brass fittings for aluminum tanks should be isolated from the tank using adaptors or stainless-steel washers too.




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