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Boatbuilding Basics: Fiberglass, Composites, and Wood | PropTalk

Mustin's part-by-part look at hull, deck, rig, and machinery is both a minicourse for transforming used-boat shopping from a game of craps to a science, and the first step in a holistic boat maintenance program. His discussion of the significance of cracks found in aging hulls and decks is the most thorough in print. He is not shy in assessing the lack of regulation of professional surveyors, nor does he shrink from pointing a finger at shoddy building practices.

Having a used boat surveyed is a critical prelude to buying it. Yet a professional survey is expensive--several hundred dollars. Surveying Fiberglass Sailboats will enable you to conduct your own surveys while narrowing the field, then monitor a professional surveyor's performance when selecting your target boat. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required.

To get the free app, enter your mobile phone number. Since the late s, when the first "plastic" sailboat shocked the New York Boat Show, fiberglass boatbuilding has gone through classic growing pains. Longtime yacht broker and marine surveyor Henry Mustin has seen it all: the slow acceptance of those early, heavy boats; the market boom of the lighter boats of the s; the "boat pox" scare of the s; and the continued lack of industry standards that makes buying and owning a fiberglass boat an adventure.

In Surveying Fiberglass Sailboats Mustin explains what to watch for in a used sailboat from each era, and how to ferret out the hidden defects in any boat. He shows how to estimate the cost of repairs and the value of a boat. And he addresses the question: When is a fiberglass boat too used up to save?

The inside story on surveying build my own fiberglass boat version boats. No sailor should be without it. Praise for Surveying Fiberglass Sailboats: "A concisely written primer for sailors considering purchasing a used boat, preparing for extended cruising, or seeking guidelines for an ongoing maintenance program.

Mustin is adept at distilling often highly involved subjects, so you should be able to learn the fundamentals of evaluating a vessel's major structures, systems, and equipment. Plus, if you plan to buy either a used or new fiberglass sailboat, this book should help you reduce your cost.

This slender volume provides the foundation for a holistic boat maintenance program, making it as valuable for owners as it is for buyers. Mustin takes prospective buyers on a detailed tour of boat materials, structures, rigging systems and construction build my own fiberglass boat version, illustrating. Read more Read. Previous page. Print length. Publication date. January 22, See all details. Next page.

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FREE Shipping. Customers who viewed this item also viewed. Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1. Don Casey. Surveying Yachts and Small Craft. Paul Stevens. Wayne Canning. The Complete Sailing Manual, 4th Edition. Steve Sleight. Beth Leonard. Customers who bought this item also bought.

Nigel Calder. Register a free business account. Not so [this book]. It's a concisely written primer. Mustin is adept at distilling often highly involved subjects, so you should be able to learn the fundamentals of evaluating a vessel's major structures, systems and equipment. Henry C. Mustinproprietor of H. Mustin Co.

From the Back Cover Since the late s, when the first "plastic" sailboat shocked the New York Build my own fiberglass boat version Show, fiberglass boatbuilding has gone through classic growing pains.

Read. Tell the Publisher! I'd like to read this book on Kindle Don't have a Kindle? Customer reviews. How are ratings calculated? Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the build my own fiberglass boat version on Amazon.

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Verified Purchase. I enjoyed reading it. It does not seem to be very complete and is not all that clear as to what to look. It tells you about systems, but not what to look for to make build my own fiberglass boat version they are in good shape. I bought it used, and did not pay much so it was worth more than I paid. Really is more a good introduction to boat systems for a new owner, than a what to look for when buying.

Don Casey's build my own fiberglass boat version the Aging Sailboat" is much better, and clearer. Even if it does not have as through a description of the systems. Books like this are great for scaring one away from build my own fiberglass boat version idea of boat ownership. Much alarm is raised build my own fiberglass boat version blisters, osmotic or.

This book is perhaps most useful for the rarified crowd of people already surveying other types of boats, or with heaps of experience with fiberglass laminates.

Mustin gives a lot of good information in doing your own survey for that boat you have your eye on. I would never recommend not having a professional survey, but this book guides you through a lot of information with good pictures and sketches. Read this book before you go boat searching to eliminate the dogs. Then use this book to hire a really good surveyor and be able to talk intelligently to. Good luck. Would I buy. A great book to inform someone how to look at a fiberglass boat and how to they are made so that you can have somewhat of a better idea of what you are getting into when you finally build my own fiberglass boat version one.

I build my own fiberglass boat version this book to help me build my own fiberglass boat version looking at boats to purchase. I was a first time boat buyer and felt lost. If I had taken the time to read this all the way through I am sure it would have helped me to make a very informed decision, but I was only able to skim it minuets before I went to look at the boat I eventually bought.

That being said, the skimming I was able to do did help me to see a few flaws that I used to bring the price. This book is chocked full of info, but I would not recommend this to a first time boat buyer like. This book is better suited for someone with a boat that is in need of restoration and does not know where to start.

This book build my own fiberglass boat version help you evaluate the true condition of any boat and help to lay out a plan for repairs. For those of you that want to perform those repairs yourself you should look at "This Old Boat" by Don Casey. I bought two books on sailboat inspection and this was the better of the two.

Covers most subjects in sufficient detail to cull out boats prior to having a professional survey. I actually learned quite a bit from this book. Reviews information that most experienced sailors already know, but there's always a couple of nuggets build my own fiberglass boat version may have been forgotten or new. See all reviews.

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It was as well unbendingPaul Boaf. ??Well, I drilled holes in a finish pieces of a crawl as well as used the bit of copper handle build my own fiberglass boat version say a crawl collectively. ??If a tab upon your teabag falls off whilst a bag continues to be dipped in your hoatso we presumably can take build my own fiberglass boat version winding panels we pattern as well as squash them out for a plywood.

The other component is a plastic resin, usually polyester , although vinylester and sometimes epoxy are increasingly used these days. The principle behind any composite building material is simple. A binding medium that is not structurally sound can be stiffened and made stronger by adding another more fibrous material. You cannot, for example, build a solid house of just mud or straw, but if you mix mud and straw together, you can build quite a strong house.

In all cases, the sum is much stronger than its parts. In this case, the medium is the resin, and the stiffening fibers are spun glass filaments ten times thinner than a single human hair. These fine glass fibers are in one sense quite fragile, but when held in column by plastic resin they are also stiff and strong.

The resin begins as a liquid and becomes solid after a catalyst or hardener is added to it. This is a chemical reaction that cannot be undone.

Unlike thermoforming plastics like polythene and PVC that can be melted after they set and recast like metal, thermosetting plastics like polyester, vinylester, and epoxy become permanently solid after setting.

Applying heat softens them a bit and greatly weakens them indeed, they have very low heat resistance compared to most metals , and they may be set on fire, but they cannot melt and become fluid again. The glass fibers come in rolls of fabric. The most common sort is electrical-grade glass, known as E-glass, which was originally developed for use in electrical circuit boards.

The alternative is structural-grade glass, called S-glass, which was developed for use in airplane construction. S-glass not surprisingly is a much better structural material than E-glass.

It is nearly half again as stiff and has much better impact resistance. Unfortunately, it also costs three times as much, which is why most boats are built of inferior E-glass. Quality builders often use limited amounts of S-glass to reinforce certain heavily loaded areas of a hull or deck, but only rarely do you see an entire boat built out of it. To make something as large as a boat out of liquid resin and floppy fabric, you need a mold to shape and support the materials until they solidify.

In both cases, multiple layers of fabric are built up into a laminate, and after the resin in all the layers has set up hard and cured, the now solid part can be separated from the mold. When working with a male mold you are building up laminate from the inside out; the outermost layer goes on last, and if you want the outside of your boat to look nice and shiny you must fair and polish the exterior surface afterward.

With a female mold, the outermost layer goes on first. Either way you must take the trouble to fair and polish the entire surface at least once. But with a female mold you need do it only once though some intermediate cleaning and polishing is required and can then pop multiple fair-skinned boats from the mold thereafter.

This is why production builders always use female molds. They also use gelcoat, a thin coat of resin thickened with colored pigment, as the very first layer in the laminate so boats emerge from their molds prepainted as well as prefaired. One advantage of fiberglass construction is that it facilitates the creation of complex hull shapes. But some shapes are still easier to form than others. One reason production sailboat builders favor the modern canoe-shaped flat-bottomed hull with low deadrise is that it is an extraordinarily simple shape to mold.

You do have to bolt on a keel afterward, but that is a relatively simple matter of drilling holes and installing fasteners. Roughneck Big River. Roughneck Roughneck SC. Roughneck Deluxe Tiller. Roughneck Pathfinder. Roughneck Tunnel Jet. Roughneck Rambler. Roughneck Waterfowl Tiller. Utility V Retreat RFL. Retreat WT. Retreat Ext Walk Thru. SS Ext Walk Thru. SS Walk Thru. SS CL. SS WS. SS RFL. SF Walk Thru. And as soon as the solution is ready, pour it immediately into the paint tray.

And then wait for around 30 minutes for the mixture to harden, and get ready to apply the toughened solution to the hull of your boat. The seal coat is the term used for the first covering of resin. It is applied through a foam roller, where you need to use firm force and directional strokes in order to evenly distribute the resin.

Prepare the fiberglass cloth and cut it according to the shapes needed to cover your boat. Use staples, tacks, or tape to attach them to the boat. The second coating of resin is called the bond coat. If you can extend your patience, sand the hull again, and apply the second coat on top of the fiberglass cloth. Make sure that you take away the item you used to fasten the fiberglass cloth before the bond coat hardens the surface completely.

The third resin coating is called the fill coat. After sanding, apply a third coat of resin. The final resin coating must be evenly applied and smooth, and it needs to be thick enough that you can sand without creating damage to the fiberglass cloth.

Remember that the final coating is what people can see clearly, and it defines the beauty of your boat. Wait for a considerable amount of time for the final coating of resin to completely dry, and that can take overnight to accomplish. And when the final coating is hard and strong enough, sand the hull using a lower grit paper in the beginning, and complete the sanding process with a higher grit paper.

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