Download your own set of free plans today: pbo. Browse the complete set of articles in this series online. Nothing was sitting quite right, and he knew he still had an awful long way to go. So it was a pleasure to visit him this month and find that, not only had he sorted out his garboards and geralds, but he had finished planking the entire boat and turned it the right way up � all in the space of two months, starting from scratch.
Regular readers will remember that Jeremy is building the latest version of the Western Skiff, a 14ft dinghy designed by Nigel Irens and Ed Burnett 22 years ago and now revived as a kit, available from Jordan Boats www. Although Jeremy has previous experience building epoxy ply build your own sailing skiff food, the ease of building of the Western Skiff is clearly still as appealing now as it was when the kit was first created.
In our first installment Build your own Western Skiff part 1Jeremy had erected the frames, laid the bottom board and hung the first two planks on each. Jeremy duly ordered a 5m sheet of 1. The join between bottom board and garboards is smooth, but thereafter build your own sailing skiff food overlap.
The solution was to tack the cloth in place with staples, just enough to hold it in place yet loose enough to be easily removed.
Jeremy then used a low-viscosity resin without any thickener to achieve maximum penetration in the wood, which he literally poured onto the cloth and worked in with a special build your own sailing skiff food. Jeremy wetting out the glass cloth on the garboards and lower plank with epoxy.
This not only simplifies the building process but also creates extremely strong joints arguably stronger than conventionally bevelled joints. The trick, then, is to tighten the screws just enough to bend the planks round to a smooth curve without pulling them out of line.
The top planks are more build your own sailing skiff food because they are big and flapping all over place. I used clips rather than clamps because they hold the plank in place but still allow some wriggle room. Whereas the original instructions suggest using cable ties to join the planks together before filleting, Jeremy opted for screws instead, as he felt they were more easily adjusted and allowed you to hold a gap where necessary, eg between planks while filleting.
View astern, again before the internal joints have been epoxy filleted. With the planks in position, the endless job of filleting began. First, Jeremy ran a putty knife or a pencil along the seam and marked the limit of the intended fillet on the lower plank. With the seams taped up, he filled them with epoxy, thickened to a creamy paste with colloidal silica and microballoons. Then you want a nice smooth run, with the flat edge of the knife scraping the masking tape and dragging the epoxy back into the joint, and the point giving a nice sharp edge to the fillet.
The size of some of the epoxy fillets might look alarming but the end result is surprisingly strong. With the filleting complete, Jeremy removed all the plank-to-plank fastenings and filled the holes with epoxy. As to the vexed question of whether to leave in the plank-to-frame fastenings or remove them to save weight, the jury was still out when I visited him � although he seemed inclined to leave them build your own sailing skiff food on the basis that they might add a bit of longevity for a negligible increase in weight.
With the penultimate planks in place, Jeremy hung the sheer plank build your own sailing skiff food one side of the boat and made sure it had a nice shape. He measured the distance between the top of the plank and the top of the slightly projecting frames and transferred the dimensions to the other side of the boat.
He then hung the other sheer strake in exactly the same position, to ensure the boat was symmetrical. At last the big day came: it was time to turn the boat. Although Jeremy had done this many times before, building boats on a piecemeal basis for Barrow Boats back in the s, he was nevertheless delighted with the outcome. The bottom of the skiff looks resplendent in its shimmering silver gown. Jeremy left the glass mat to settle into shape for 24 hours before applying the epoxy.
He used staples, left slightly proud, to wrap the mat around the chine. The staples were removed as soon as the epoxy had cured. Wetting out the glass mat with epoxy. The aim with the first coat was to use just enough resin to saturate the mat, but not so much that it lifted it off the wood. Note frames wrapped with silver foil to protect them from spillage.
The third and fourth planks were much easier to hang than the build your own sailing skiff food two. Note the long gerald at the bow, which allows the higher plank to overlap the lower one as they join onto the inner stem.
Jeremy took care to ensure the port sheer plank sat nicely before measuring it against the frames and then mirroring it on the starboard. Jeremy marked off the inside line of the overlapping planks and masked build your own sailing skiff food both sides of the seams with tape before filling them with epoxy.
The result is a set of beautifully even fillets and unblemished topsides. All in all, a much neater job than the author did 22 years ago�. Once mixed, get the paste out of the tub and on to a flat board or stick to reduce the chance of an exothermic reaction, ie the mix self-heating. Jeremy used the same marking then masking technique to fillet the inside of the seams, first working the epoxy into the seam�.
Tape removed and the results speak for themselves. About the author. Writer and photographer Nic Compton has written 18 books about boats, sailors and the sea.
We estimate. Instructions for free Western Skiff plans � click here to download. Overview pdf of Western Skiff plans 10 pages of A4 � click here to download. Full set of pdf plans of Western Skiff 39 build your own sailing skiff food of A0 � click here to download. Building an outboard well during skiff restoration inby Nic Compton. Skip to content �. Home All latest posts.
Once printed, join together individual sheets by matching the corresponding numbers in each corner and aligning the target marks.
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