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Certainly some boats appear to have been repaired with anything, including bits of other boats! It is, however, the strongest way that you can process wood, because it works with the grain of the wood � it gains strength by following the way that the tree grows. The log is split using an axe to make a cut, running up and down the trunk. The split is widened and extended by driving wedges into it, until eventually the whole trunk splits in half.
At this point, for a pine tree, the splitting stops. Younger pine trees are used, which are only about half the diameter of the an oak. Oak trees can be split further; each half is split into quarters, each quarter split into eighths, and so on.
In fact, from a year-old tree, with skill, about 64 planks can be obtained. They are all slightly triangular, and quite rough, so they are smoothed down a little, like the pine planks. For the frames inside the ships, the Viking shipwrights used another type of timber that is rarely seen today � the grown timber. A grown timber is simply one that has grown to the right shape. The grain runs in the direction that was needed, making the timber incredibly strong.
Viking ship frames are like display cases of grown timbers. For instance, the stem and stern posts would be taken from large, curved branches.
Where two parts of the frame are to meet usually a weak spot that needs re-enforcement the Vikings used a single timber, cut from a branching element of a tree.
The tools used for this smoothing would appear to us at first glance quite simple. An axe with a long blade could be used to smooth, as could an adze and a draw knife. Planes were known, and are shown being used for boat building on the Bayeux tapestry. Later on in the process, augers would start holes for rivets and trenails.
Profiled irons would make decorative marks in the planks, or carve channels for caulking. These apparently simple tools were so good that they remained unchanged for centuries � in fact, until the introduction of modern power tools! To make a Viking ship, you lay down a keel first. The keel is made of Oak, as long and as straight as you can get. Often this shape will change along the length of the keel, changing from a V section at the stem and stern front and back to a U section in the middle.
This is to help shape the final lines of the hull. Two pieces of curved wood are attached at the front and back of the keel, the Stem and Stern pieces. There is some evidence to show that there was a relationship between the length of keel and the diameter of curve in the stem and stern pieces. Viking ships are pretty much symmetrical both fore and aft front and back and port and starboard left and right , so the curve in these pieces will be the same.
Two types of stem and stern piece construction have been found. In one, the stems are simple curves. In the other, they are carved and notched with steps, forming the beginnings of the planks that they will eventually hold.
Although this is a lot of work to do, it can save time in the long run. It was important for Viking ships to have the planks sweeping up and running together along the stems.
It is then ready to have the planks or strakes put on it. The first strake to go on is called the Garboard strake dunno why, it just is and it is riveted and nailed on to the keel. Iron rivets are the most common Viking method of joining planks together modern clinker boats use copper. This part of the work is finished by fitting the breast hook and quarter knees. Swivel or crutch chocks are fitted as appropriate to the gunwale, the thwarts fitted down onto the rising and held in position by knees up to the Building A Clinker Dinghy Designs gunwale and perhaps down onto the stringer.
The structure of gunwale, rising, thwart and thwart knees greatly stiffens and strengthens the shell and turns it into a boat. There are several ways of fixing the rubbing strake but in a clinker boat, it is applied to the outside of the sheer strake. Finally, the fittings such as swivels or crutch plate, painter ring, stretchers, keel and stem band are fitted and fixed with screws. In a sailing dinghy, there would be more fittings such as fairleads , horse, shroud plates, mast step, toe straps and so on.
That more or less finishes the boatbuilder's work but the painter has yet to varnish or paint it. At stages along the way, he will have been called in to prime the timber, particularly immediately before the timbering is done. The boatbuilder will clean up the inside of the planking and the painter will prime it and probably more, partly because it is easier that way and partly so as to put some preservative on the planking behind the timbers.
Similarly, it is best to have the varnishing done after the fittings are fitted but before they are shipped. Thus, the keel band will be shaped and drilled and the screw holes drilled in the wood of keel and stem then the band will be put aside while the varnishing is done. In the last few years of wooden boat construction, glue and screws took over, but until the s, the keel, hog, stem, apron, deadwoods, sternpost, and perhaps transom would be fastened together by bolts set in white lead and grease.
There are three kinds of bolt used, of which, nowadays, the screw bolt i. The second type of bolt is the pin bolt or cotter bolt , which, instead of a thread, has a tapered hole forged through the end away from the head, into which a tapered pin or cotter is knocked.
The taper is in effect a straight thread. In conjunction with a washer, this draws the bolt tight, as a nut does on a screw bolt. The third type of bolt is the clench bolt. It has some of the features of a rivet but was usually much longer than the normal rivet; in a wooden ship, perhaps a metre or more.
For a shipwright's use, it is of copper. A head is formed by upsetting one end using a swage. It is then knocked through a hole bored through the work to be fastened, and through a washer. The head is held up with a dolly and the other end is upset over the washer in the same way as the head. Until the late s, the centre-line assembly of British Admiralty twenty-five foot motor cutters were fastened this way. Where suitable metal was not available, it was possible to use treenails pronounced trennels.
They were like clench bolts but made of wood, and instead of being clenched, they had a hardwood wedge knocked into each end to spread it. The surplus was then sawn off. The clinker form of construction is linked in people's minds with the Vikings who used this method to build their famous longships from riven timber split wood planks.
Clinker is the most common English term for this construction in both British and American English, though in American English the method is sometimes also known as lapstrake ; lapboard was used especially before the 20th century to side buildings, where the right angles of the structure lend themselves to quick assembly. The smoother surface of a carvel boat gives the impression at first sight that it is hydrodynamically more efficient.
The lands of the planking are not there to disturb the stream line. This distribution of relative efficiency between the two forms of construction is an illusion because for given hull strength, the clinker boat is lighter. Additionally, the clinker built method as used by the Vikings created a vessel which could twist and flex relative to the line extending length of the vessel, bow to stern.
Apple Range. Iceni Range. Dinghies and praams. Built - not designed. Mainly small sailing dinghy and dayboat designs - from full plans to simple lines and offsets - for the home boat building enthusiast. These are simply a few pages about some of the small craft - dayboats, racing or sailing dinghies, beach cruisers and canoe yawls, whether balanced lug, gaff or bermudian rigged - that I build - or have built - or have designed - or that are some combination of the three.
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