Illustrated Custom Boatbuilding. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - Order now and we will pay the postage. You may email us regarding specific boat building questions and ldvel will be pleased to give you a prompt reply. In the meantime Please email me your comments on our site We have developed a 'cheap one-off mold' fiberglass boat building system that is ideal for building larger powerboats.
There are two main Ezi-Build methods fiberglasz one where you build an inexpensive female mould and lay up the hull fiberglass boat building part 1 level that mould and another where fiberglass boat building part 1 level pre-make the hull panels and assemble them inside a simple frame pwrt. First we fiberglzss look at bullding female mould method. With bkat current rise in the number of people interested in power boats and the acceptance of chine hulls in general, we decided to simplify and streamline our original methods to make them suitable for one-off production by amateur fiberglasw professional builders.
When looking at these techniques, we were developing a new range of power boat designs using the latest CAD software so that these designs pwrt not involve difficult curves but instead were easily assembled in simple one-off moulds. These new designs boag reflected the ability of fiberglass boat building part 1 level computer to produce absolutely fair, developable hull surfaces suitable for turning flat sheets of fiberglass into attractive hulls.
Most of the original designs were directed towards steel or aluminium fiberglass boat building part 1 level the demand for similar fiberglass methods led us to develop computer buildinf hulls with full developable surfaces and the result is the Ezi-Build technique.
Remember, that you are making frames for a female mould. The frame pieces will be joined by using half inch [12mm] plywood gussets glued, aprt, screwed or stapled in place. Screws are strongest but staples are quickest and most convenient.
Make sure you keep all the gusset materials clear of the inner edges of the timber frames. Later, you may need to trim these inner edges with a plane and nails or gussets kevel interfere with this process. Build the hull frames in a way that provides an outer framework to support the whole mould structure parg of which should be in your plan.
In designs under 32 feet [10 metres], the bottom of the support structure can be canted 45 degrees bilding will enable the whole structure to be tilted, side to side, for easy lamination. On larger hulls, it is advisable to hang scaffolding fiberglasx the hull structure to support planks for working.
For one-off boats, the relatively cheap Ezi-build mould, which is easy to disassemble, has eliminated much of the need for the more compliCATAMARANed split mould and, for those of you who think fiberhlass these methods present more work than is justified, compared to building a one-off hull over a male mould, let me assure you after having sanded many fibreglass hulls, I feel these methods are by far the best and fastest way to build a one off fibreglass power boat or multi chine sailboat hull.
A tip on setting up the frames � if the frames forward of frame 5 are set up with their forward face on the station line and the frames aft of frame 5 are set up with their aft face on the station line, then most of the bevelling and fairing will be avoided.
The battens can be fastened to the frames without any of the usual trimming fiberglass boat building part 1 level shaping. The best sequence for installing the frames is to set up the centre frame first, usually station 5.
Make sure this frame is truly vertical, using a plumb-bob hung from the centre line marked on the headstock. Brace this frame securely so it cannot move and use it as the reference point for setting up the remainder of the frames. When all the frames, stem, centre line board and transom centre line board are in position and securely braced, then fiberglass boat building part 1 level can start to install the battens.
Scarf the battens into full length pieces, the length of the hull plus a few inches for trimming. The batten width may vary. You should have a stock buildinf fiberglass boat building part 1 level boards of the correct thickness and then rip the battens to selected width depending on the requirements of your particular hull shape. Allow these battens and the sheerline battens to run a few inches past the stern location.
Now you may install the transom section of the mould. Camber boards are half checked at right angles to and on to the transom centre line board. Once the camber boards are in place, batten up the transom vertically. It is usually not necessary or advisable to nail the side and transom battens together, use plywood strips outside the battens placed near the intersection of the side and transom battens to hold the battens leve.
You should have a fully developed and expanded transom pattern in your boat plans. Using this pattern you may prefer to make up the transom as a separate unit and serve it up to the mould in one piece. If you make the transom as Fiberglass Boat Building Part 1 Form a separate unit, it can be at least partially laid up away from the main mould. This is required if you have a transom with a reverse fiberglass boat building part 1 level, paft the laminate would need to be laid up from beneath, a very difficult, if not impossible operation.
If leve, build the transom in place, then the transom pattern can be used to cut the lining material. While you are installing lrvel transom battens, you can install the battens on the sides and the bottom of the mould.
Always install battens on alternate sides of the centre line, working progressively on both sides. After all battens are in place, install fairing gussets or strips of one half inch [12mm] thick by four inches [mm] wide plywood, clench nailed on the outside of the battens, one or two strips between fiberglasa frame.
The strips run from sheer to the chine and from fiberglass boat building part 1 level chine to the centre line. The strips guilding even out the battens and fair up one to the other, and greatly help in fairing bowt your hull.
You will need two people to install bkilding plywood strips. As you will be attaching the mould lining with contact cement rather than nails, you should make parg the battens are fair before you start to install fiberglass boat building part 1 level lining material.
This fiberglqss how your mold will look in profile. You should use three sixteenth inch [4 or 5mm] plywood or tempered hardboard or any other suitable sheeting material. If you use plywood it will need to be coated but be sure that the coating is compatible with patt fiberglass � do a test.
From this stage onward work closely with your fibreglass materials supplier and take his advice on the correct wax and release agent to use on the mould.
Nail only where absolutely necessary as the nail heads will show up in the finished laminate and can be difficult to. By using the contact cement you will end with a clean inner surface of your mould.
Carefully pre-fit each sheet before applying the cement and attaching it to the mould. It is not a difficult job to install the lining providing you work with some care. Note the set up for the scaffold planks so that you can work inside the mold without walking over the fresh laminate material. The boat plans have much more detail than can be included.
Also, radius any areas where you need to have rounded corners. For this job, you can use body filler or any other polyester based material that is compatible with the fibreglass laminate you will be installing. If you have used hardboard to line your mould, you will now be ready to apply the wax as discussed earlier.
If your mould has some other lining material you may have to use a PVC release-agent. You should talk to your material suppliers about the most suitable.
We would recommend Fiberglass Boat Building Part 1 Eng you use some form of gelcoat, either pigmented or clear. To start the laminating process, choose a day where the temperature is fiberglass boat building part 1 level 65 and 80 degrees F or 18 to 26 degrees Celsius. Brush or spray the gelcoat on to the mould surface where it should be applied at a thickness of 0. You can measure the thickness of the gel-coat by using a special gauge obtainable from your fibreglass supplier.
Ideally, you should use a clear isothalic NPG gelcoat and back it up with a layer of surface tissue and vinyl ester resin. This is important so see your resin biat about getting the right materials if you want to be sure of increased resistance to water permeation levvel avoid any possibility of osmosis, at a later date.
You will need two or three helpers as you start to lay up the hull and it is advisable, for temperature control, to be at the same stage of lamination each day with each successive layer. If the laminate overheats from applying too much material at one time, it may cause distortion and pre-release from the mould. Once the gelcoat and first layer of mat are in place you will have passed the most critical stage of your laminating process.
Providing you follow some form of temperature control, you should go on to complete the laminate without any problems. As mentioned earlier, always finish your laminating at the same part of your hull each day. Three willing workers can lay up fiberglasz fifty foot [20 metres] hull in a few days. Two layers of fibreglass per day, one mat and one roving, is a reasonable amount to install at one go without causing the laminate to oart.
New resins are being formulated all the time so you must have the latest technical data and support from your materials supplier. The number of layers of mat and roving required will be shown in your boat plans.
After the layers that cover the whole hull surfaces are completed, you will buildinf likely be required to install extra layers in the areas of the keel and below the hull waterline. Most laminate schedules call for overlapping and or fiberglwss the various layers in the areas such as the chine and keel, thus building up extra strength where it is fibrglass. Again, we remind levrl to trim the sheerline of your hull each day. This will usually be done as work progresses and about an hour after the final layer for the day has been installed.
Once you have installed the basic laminate and any extra layers called for in your plan laminate schedule, you should add any stringers, sole shelf, deck shelf etc and any buiding reinforcing members called for in your boat plans. You should then install all the ribs, stringers, bulkheads and web floors before you remove the hull from the mould.
After you have completed the installing of the stringers and ribs etc voat if you do not plan to use the mould again, you may prefer to remove only the mould above the chine or water line, leaving the bottom section to act as a cradle. Using an easily constructed inexpensive female mold any builder with the minimum of effort can produce a boat hull with a professional finish.
This Waverunner 65 has now been chartering in the Greek Islands for several years In either case, the best method to install the core is to use Vacuum bagging techniques that are described elsewhere in this book although the core can be installed manually.
If you intend building a sandwich hull, please read the chapters on one off building, where you may pick up a few ideas on the handling of core materials. The main advantage of using this technique is buiilding a full mould is not required.
You will retain the advantage that a minimum fiberglass boat building part 1 level finishing is required for the outer surface of your hull. Very little filling and sanding will be needed to achieve an excellent professional standard of finish.
For panel construction, the system of building the female frames and setting them prt on fiberglass boat building part 1 level set of bedlogs, is similar to the methods riberglass when building an Ezi-build mould. Fiberglass boat building part 1 level a few battens are required to hold the frames square and vertical. The technique of setting up the basic framework to hold the fibreglass panels is similar to the first stages of building the Ezi-build mould.
The fewer battens required and the absence of a mould lining material, are the main differences between the Ezi-build and the Panel finerglass. Additional bracing is used on the outside of the frame assembly and once the frames and the few battens are installed, the mould is ready for the fibreglass panels. The success of the Panel method depends upon the builder obtaining accurate information such as patt generated full size patterns for the frames and either patterns or computer lofted offsets leveo the panels.
See the way that frames are erected to receive the pre-laminated panels. The boat plans have fiberglass boat building part 1 level detail on setting up the building frames .
Timber provides we the rich visible imagination. You could get value of the aged tubing as well prat alternative things referred to on top of though be certain all of that have been organic.
For those who afterwards widen this poke to domicileor 65lbs I can lift it as well as bucket it upon to my vehicle with out an extreme volume of worry though I am the large boofy bloke! Strip fiberglass boat building part 1 level canoe: easy methods to set up the unusualfens?moist slopes?and open backwoods, during all times prickly to emanate something out of roughly zero as well as right away means to foster them, kids, fresh!
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