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This initial shroud setting with the Fisher tuning is different than the Lightning Class maximum shroud tension measurement.

Be sure to set the uppers at while the lowers are set at approximately 80lbs. On the Allen and newer Nickels the lowers shrouds will read lbs when set properly to achieve the necessary prebend. For the older Nickels and boats with the upper shrouds aft the lowers will be tensioned to lbs. Verify that your lower shroud tension has now increased to pounds. If your lower shroud tension is too light,chances are you will not induce the proper prebend.

Increasing the lower tension will help achieve the prebend. At this point, because the mast has hopefully developed the prebend discussed above, the upper shrouds will drop in tension to lbs. Do not re-tighten the uppers above lbs. Your mast should also have raked farther aft so that the rake number is smaller. Once on the water double check your lateral straightness once again when sailing upwind in an 8 � 0 m.

Note: In breeze above mph the upper sections of the mast above the spreader will fall off slightly sag to leeward. This is normal. You have completed all the tuning with the Fisher setup.

You will never need to adjust your lower shrouds or blocks until you take your mast down. When re stepping simply place everything back where you had it last! Generally set your jib halyard tension so that the jib luff wire in the front of the jib is just equal tension wise with the forestay when sailing upwind There should be no sag in between the snaps. In all conditions set the jib halyard tension so that the luff wire is just slightly tighter than the forestay in all conditions.

In very heavy winds jib halyard stretch will make it difficult to set the halyard tighter than the forestay. More tension on the halyard will be necessary. In light winds the cloth tension will be set loose enough that there may be slight wrinkles along the luff.

As the breeze increases, increase the cloth tension until all the wrinkles are barely removed in heavy wind. In very heavy winds pull the jib cloth tension a little tighter than just barely removing the wrinkles in order to flatten the sail and help open up the upper batten. Each North jib has the luff wire attached to the head of the jib with a light line lashing which allows the height of the jib to be adjusted on the luff wire.

Depending on the type of tack fitting on your boat, you may want to adjust this lashing to raise or lower the jib to sit on the deck properly.

Be sure to tie well, or even tape, the lashing when done to prevent the lashing from coming untied. Your North jibs are marked with a trim line near the clew drawn from the clew grommet toward the body of the sail. Your lead should be positioned so that the sheet is a direct extension of this trim line.

This is more effective than a measurement from the stem to the lead position because of the variances in jib lead fittings and placement, rake, and jib wire height off the deck. Normal jib sheet trim for 8 � 12 m.

In winds below 8 m. However, with any jib, in any condition, the best final check on jib sheet trim is that the jib leech telltale is flowing all the time.

Your North mainsail is constructed with a shelf foot. Judge the outhaul tension at the center of the boom. The seam which attaches the shelf foot to the sail, the bottom seam in the sail gets closer to the boom when the outhaul is tensioned or further away from the boom when the outhaul is eased.

At maximum outhaul tension this seam will lay next to the boom and the shelf foot is closed up. This is proper trim for heavy winds when the boat is overpowered. We do not feel it is advantageous to loosen the outhaul more than this when sailing upwind. Downwind loosen the outhaul to allow the shelf foot to open completely.

In light winds the Fisher mainsail performs best with the Cunningham completely slack. On the M-5, the cunningham will be tensioned so that wrinkles are only evident below the spreader window. In medium winds the Cunningham should be tensioned on both mains so that wrinkles should be evident just in the bottom of the mainsail below the spreader window. In heavy winds, it is beneficial to pull in the Cunningham fairly aggressively.

At the same time that the backstay is applied to de-power the main, the Cunningham should be pulled on to maintain the proper draft position. The backstay controls mast bend and headstay sag. Pulling it harder flattens both the main and the jib.

It also changes the main leech tension and the angle of upper batten of the main. In very light winds when the mast is blocked forward and pre-bent see mast blocking tension the backstay slightly to keep the headstay from sagging and bouncing too much.

In heavy air more backstay is necessary to flatten the main. If you pull the backstay too hard, the main will invert as evidenced by large diagonal wrinkles running from the upper area of the main above the spreaders down towards the clew. In medium to heavy winds, some inversion wrinkles below the spreader window are normal and actually desirable as they indicate that maximum mast bend has been achieved.

As a basic guide, for the mainsail to take shape and the upper batten to be trimmed parallel to the boom see mainsheet trim , the backstay should be applied to just barely remove the slop. Once all three crew are on the high side and beginning to hike, the backstay should be tensioned much more tightly.

As the boat hits waves or sails into lulls, be sure to ease the backstay to power the rig back up. It is also important to remember that as you pull on more backstay you must also pull on a proportion-ate amount of both jib cloth and main Cunningham. These three controls working in harmony are the best way to keep your sails performing at their designed best shape. The bridle is normally centered for light to medium winds, but as the boat starts to heel and becomes overpowered, and therefore develops more helm, the bridle should be eased to leeward.

Do not ease the bridle to leeward until the outhaul is fully tensioned and moderate tension has been applied to the backstay. If you have a bridle that is adjustable in height, it is advantageous to raise the bridle for light winds so when the main is sheeted properly upper batten parallel to the boom , the top of the bridle block should be fairly close to the block on the end of the boom. Often, it pays to moderately depower with the backstay, outhaul and Cunningham before easing the bridle.

The general rule is to trim the mainsheet to maintain the top batten parallel to the boom. This is viewed by sighting directly underneath the boom up towards the upper batten. Once up to speed, re-trim the main to upper batten parallel. In heavy winds, when maximum backstay tension is applied and the main is fairly flat, the upper batten will angle slightly outboard in relation to the boom.

In drifting conditions where the weight of the boom will hook the upper batten, ease the mainsheet until the upper batten is parallel to the center line of the boat. Be sure to recheck the top batten position whenever the backstay and Cunningham are adjusted. Consider the mainsheet your throttle.

It definitely helps to keep the mainsheet in hand and play it to keep the boat moving. When it starts to feel slow ease the sheet and when it feels fast try trimming in tighter to increase pointing ability.

In other words, as long as it feels good, pull! Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts. Sailboat Guide. Discover Buy Sell Sign In.

Discover Sailboats Lightning. Helms - Jack A. Mobjack Manufacturing Corp. Loftland Sail-craft Inc. Construction Wood or FG. Stuart, Florida, United States. Auxilary Power Make? Fuel Type? Fuel Capacity? Accomodations Water Capacity?

Holding Tank Capacity? Calculations Hull Speed 8. Hull Speed The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. Classic formula: 5. D : Displacement in pounds. LWL: Waterline length in feet. Capsize Screening Formula This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions.

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