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Plywood boats are frequently built in school wood shops or by youth groups as individual or group projects. To take full advantage Plywood Canoe Building Plans 04 of the material, our Plans and Patterns detail simplified construction methods geared to the abilities of the amateur. No difficult woodworking procedures, such as steam bending, are ever required, and the GLEN-L pattern system makes the difficult lofting procedure unnecessary.
Plywood is used in panels of one or two layers. For a look at the steps in plywood boatbuilding in more detail see our Sheet Plywood Pictorial Guide with captions.
The method involves cutting the plywood into strips widths vary depending on curve , and laying up layers at angles to each other, glued and fastened. Epoxy is the recommended adhesive. Multi-diagonal Planking Pictorial Guide. C ertain questions about plywood and its use in boatbuilding crop up time and again. Just as in production boats, top quality is not always demanded, needed, nor expected. After all, not all boats need to last so long that they become exhibits in museums.
A: Basically there are three plywood grades; Interior, Exterior, and Marine. The typical assumption is that plywood used in boats must be made with waterproof glue. However, the accepted standard for such a glue is one whose bonds will survive a boil test.
How many boats are ever subjected to boiling water conditions? None I know of. Fact is, for generations, countless plywood boats have been glued together successfully with low-cost powder-water mix plastic resin glue a urea-formaldehyde product. But it will survive hundreds of consecutive cycles of immersion in water at room temperatures.
The point is, Interior grade plywood is not rated for exterior or marine use where such panels may be exposed to moisture because grading standards permit non-waterproof glues in their manufacture. However, does this mean that such a panel might fail if exposed to exterior or marine conditions? Perhaps not if it is assembled with a highly water-resistant glue such as plastic resin. Besides, the practice is penny-wise and pound-foolish.
For structural members, stick to either Exterior or Marine panels. But I think this is too rigid a rule. The important quality separating Marine grade from Exterior panels is the quality and soundness of the inner plies and their construction both are made with waterproof glues as noted above.
With the Marine panel, there should be no major voids or surface defects, and inner veneer joints if they occur should be tightly fitted. You might be able to save some bucks by using Exterior plywood for planking curved areas. But the problem with lower-quality panels is that you may not always see the voids. And if your panel does break while you are installing it due to hidden voids, you will have to replace it with another, thus making the cost about comparable to what you would have spent on the better Marine panel in the first place.
You may have to make some repairs to the panel e. But in flatter hull areas such panels will suffice for most boats. Exterior panels with any major defects repaired when possible can usually also be used for most internal members throughout a boat without problem for such items as transoms, gussets, bulkheads, etc. But since the boat will probably by sheathed with fiberglass, some builders use the C-side outside and fill all the defects with resin putty prior to fiberglass application; they become invisible once painted.
On smaller, simpler, low-powered boats without a lot of curvature, I see nothing wrong with this practice, and again, have not heard of such a boat disintegrating over time because of it. A: We generally recommend covering all plywood boats with fiberglass no matter how small.
While some complain of an increase in weight, this is seldom more than an ounce or two per square foot of area in the typical application.
Then too, even lightweight coverings say 4 ounce cloth are better than nothing. When I speak of covering the outside of plywood boats with fiberglass, I use the term generically; you can use other fabrics such a Dynel or polypropylene, but fiberglass gives the best combination of price, ease of application, ready-availability, and protection in my opinion.
Whichever fabric you select, the reasons for applying the covering are the same; added abrasion resistance, improved durability, extra reinforcing for finish coatings especially at joints , reduced maintenance, better appearance, and to help insure against leaks.
Thus sheathings should be considered as basically cosmetic coverings; their intent is NOT to add strength. In fact, plywood is far stiffer than fiberglass. Hull strength comes from the plywood hull structure itself, and with proper design and construction, should prove more than adequate.
Glen-L carries epoxy , fiberglass cloth and application materials. A: If it is made with Douglas fir a reasonably tough material , surface checking and wavy surfaces will soon occur even if painted. These will be very difficult to alleviate even if the boat gets painted each season.
Other plywood types with a more uniform grain pattern will fare better in this regard, but these will still require routine coating applications. And because many species of plywood are not as tough as fir, they will more easily suffer damage without sheathing.
If you absolutely insist on not sheathing your plywood boat, consider using medium-density overlay MDO panels. These still require routine coating, but the overlay prevents surface checking and presents a smooth paint-ready surface. These do cost more and may not be readily available, however. Q: Epoxy resins sound great but they cost too much. Can I use polyesters for sheathings instead? A: We quit offering polyester resins for sheathing application years ago simply because we no longer believed in them anymore for this purpose.
Finish results with either otherwise appear the same, but polyesters are less flexible and resilient so tend to crack more easily over time. When this occurs, water can creep behind the sheathing and cause problems. As for the encapsulation process where all wood surfaces inside and out get coated, do NOT substitute polyesters this way in place of epoxies. See the epoxies available from Glen-L.
A: Because the stresses on a plywood boat are ultimately transferred to joints in the hull, a hard-setting glue rather than a flexible mastic, for example is required. As a result, glue choices are few. But as discussed above, plastic resin glues can work successfully in plywood boats for all practical purposes. Currently resorcinol costs more than epoxies, and offers no benefits over plastic resin glue in my opinion. Unlike epoxies, both need well-fitted joints, specific limited temperatures, heavy clamping pressure, and leave colored glue lines.
This uses a powder-water mix along with a second liquid component, dries clear, and has some gap-filling properties. Once popular with kit airplane builders, it may still be available from suppliers in that field.
Q: Can I increase fiberglass thickness in order to get by with thinner plywood or compensate for lower quality plywood? Primarily it involves the fallacy that plywood is weaker than, and inferior to, fiberglass. Keep in mind that while fiberglass is strong in tensile strength, it is not very stiff. Conversely, plywood is actually stronger on a weight basis in both tension and compression. In particular using duct tape to hold the boat together rather than stitching or cable ties.
I cut the third plywood sheet in half, then stacked the four sheets together and cut out all the sides at once. Then separated the two upper sheets and cut out the bottoms at the same time. Pretty quick and easy this way. I think the pictures explain a lot. Here are some pics. I spent 45 minutes laying it out, then had to go inside for Christmas festivities, then spent 20 minutes cutting out the parts, then had to go in again, then spent 20 minutes belt sanding all the parts and gluing in the butt straps on.
A belt sander will be quite risky for most people to use.. I recommend a plane. Rick got the belt sander for Xmas I think. The next stage was to do the duct taping and control the width of the boat at the sheerline. Rick was a bit impatient with this and tried to fly through it rather than the methodical, more plodding method from the designer. He ended up having some trouble with the boat being too floppy.
He took it apart and then followed the duct taping directions in the plan � and it worked. This photo below is an Australian build by Cliff and PJ over a week for a boat festival the Canoe Building Plans Pdf 5g following weekend. But it shows the beginning of the taping. Epoxy for Longevity. PL-Premium Rick has used others and found them less durable for cheapness with less Longevity.
I have been sick with a sinus infection and a fever for the last 3 days, and have been flat on my back in bed. Today was an improvement, so I worked for about an hour and got it 3D. Or using wood in the corners along with either epoxy or one of the alternative glues. Rick recommends PL Premium. Perttu builds his canoe in Finnish snows and then takes it on a river trip � videos! The reason it works is that the plywood side panels are spaced the right distance apart before the bottom is put on.
Here you can see the spacers that were in place. The reason it reduced build time is as opposed to stitching with copper wire or cable ties there are no bumps on the inside of the boat to work around.
Okay, I finished the plywood canoe today. I have a total of 4 hours and 25 minutes of build time, and anticipate another hours to sand, prep and paint it.
Or do I spend a couple of days on it and varnish it up to a yacht finish? I tend to use my boats hard, and often. A yacht finish looks as crappy as a second rate job after a month or so� Rick.
A couple of days later there was a break in the Canadian Winter and Rick and his girls tried it out on the local pond.
Rick got it out on some open water a couple of week later. He thought it tracked nicely for a travelling canoe. Still looks very cold to me! The stability not to mention floor space will make it very suitable as a fishing canoe as well. Duckworks has a good information piece up here plus the ordering info. Several Canoes? Then you need a triple storage rack to build yourself.
YOu can put it anywhere along the mid section of the boat really because the leeboard and the sail move together because of the design as one unit, but the best place is probably about or mm in front of the centre spreader.
Eyeballing a position between the front seat and the spreader seems imprecise after cutting to the QC plans that specify to the millimeter. Could you give some advice on how far back from the bow to place the mm reinforced section? BTW � my 11 year old son and I have just gone 3-D with the QC and both he and I were thoroughly impressed with how it went from floppy pieces of wood to something that looks like a real boat!
Michael, Thanks for your reply on the use of 4mm ply. No rocks, slow current and gentle winding turns without low hanging branches. Hi Jerry, For smoothwater use it would be kindof ok. The bottom will not be stiff enough so you would have to put some internal stiffeners from ply going across the floor.
Maybe 70mm wide by 50mm narrower than the bottom of the boat at that point. Ends should be a 35mm radius. This will allow water to move from front to back too for bailing or pouring the boat out. I would definitely make the gunwales and inwales both 19 x 19 to make sure the sides are well supported at the top edge level. A number of the Eurekas have been built of 4mm and that works well with the narrower panels of that boat. And the Eureka is beautiful too.
Though in that case instead of bottom stiffeners as described above several have used 2oz 70gsm woven glass cloth to make them pretty tough. This replaces all the glass tape on out outside as you can use it to cover the bottom, the two bilge panels and 25mm one inch onto the topsides. For a better comparison between the Eureka and Quick Canoe � same plywood � see here. Is it possible to build one of these from 4mm? I just happen to have 4 sheets of Okoume BS lying around with no plans for it.
I have suggested this to a couple of people. The electric canoe has a much better hull for high speed than the standard Quick Canoe hull. Also it has greater freeboard so it will match the arc of the crossbeams better. There is a potential for a really nice sailing rig with a lot of power.. I do have an extra page or three of drawings for a bigger rig for the drop in outrigger available free to purchasers. More Storer Boat Plans pics on Flickr.
Hi Neil, You would have to work out a seat and a hole through the hull and probably a rudder but no basic problems apart from the boat perhaps being too floaty unless you are carrying some gear. It really is designed for two, but it depends on your usual payload. Some tuning of the skegs at Canoe Building Plans Free Wifi the front and back of the boat might be necessary.
And probably use two spreader bars to leave the centre of the boat clear for the seat. If you really wanted to you could add an extra foot in the middle of the boat using two buttstraps.
That would make it more floaty by about 60lbs if you thought you were going much over the lbs you project. Do you have any sort of estimate for the capacity of the quick canoe?
I was hoping to build something that could hold about lb or more. Thanks Paul. Look on the right side of this webpage � there is a list of agents for several regions. You can order from any of them online.
The paper plans are the same as the PDF plans. There is a concession for projects like yours where two boats can be built for one plan fee � if that helps.
Ply will vary. Often you find Pacific Maple Marine ply x � it is not too bad. Beware of the otherwise wonderful OZ Hoop pine plywoods, the sheets are too small x without doing some figuring on how to fit the parts.
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