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Aluminum frames are generally stiffer than steel, resulting in a harsher ride. When fractions of a second count, track racers prefer that rigidity. But for getting to the store over city streets steel offers a more forgiving ride.� Aluminum is more brittle, so it's more susceptible to failure through fatigue or damage. A single dent in the wrong place could render an aluminum frame unsafe to ride. And when aluminum fails, it fails catastrophically. Think about it like this: glass will break before it bends. The same is true in many respects of aluminum. Steel on the other hand, will bend before it breaks, resulting in a far more resilient frame. There's a misconception that steel bike frames are heavy, and aluminum frames are light. Aluminum will gouge and grab the rocks. I have 3/16" steel skids on my taco, and 1/4" aluminum on the 4 runner. The aluminum ones has been dragged over dirt ruts and held up the truck just fine, but we only do light trails with the 4Runner. The aluminum is also great when you have to pull them off for whatever reason. bullaculla, Apr 4, #2.� An Aluminum skid will hold up to quite a bit of abuse, but it's service life in the rocks will be much shorter than a steel skid. If your primary goal is Forest Service roads with the occasional trip excursion, you'll be fine with aluminum. I was surprised by how many KOH cars run Aluminum backed HDPE skid plates. Steel frames may be safer- Steel and aluminum frames fail in different ways. A steel frame generally gives you a bit of warning before failing catastrophically. It won�t suddenly fail and break in half.� Where do you stand on the steel Steel Vs Aluminum Yachts 90 vs aluminum bike frame Steel Vs Aluminum Yachts Generations debate? Share your experience and tips in the comments below! More from Where The Road Forks.

Well said Ted! However the most common screw up on steel boats is assuming spray foam protects the metal. It definitely does not. Sadly, many boats have rusted out from the inside, due to lack of a proper epoxy buildup under the sprayfoam such as Foulkes, Fehrs and Amazons At least 3 coats of epoxy tar is minimum before sprayfoaming. More in the bilge and under the engine. Another option is using origami methods, which eliminate the chines in the ends, and leave no chines visible above the waterline, making the hull in the water indistinguishable from a round bilged boat.

Funny all these years later I should read this article I befriended the fellow living near the marina in Pickering and helped with various chores on the boat The second boat was transported elsewhere. There were quite a few evenings spent melting lead and pouring it into the keel. He had the outside zinc coated then painted and it wasn't long before we were floating.

I wasn't available when he was rigging and then he was gone Loved that boat. Another chap was building Aluminum Yachts Sailing 123 sailboats south of the in Trenton. Philip Batten I think was his name He published a small booklet all about steel boat construction as he saw it.

He was an engineer and I believe the boat was of his own design. Only saw one though. That would have been around Bill Hamilton, IAV8 rogers. Fabulous Share! I loved reading this stuff.

Sailing is my passion and profession both and almost everyday I have new experience with sailing and lots of new things to learn. But making a boat or yacht is totally new to me. It really seems quite interesting and exciting. Keeps sharing! I love to get new ideas! He's back! Ted Brewer is back as a guest blogger here at Sail Far Live Free , and I'm thrilled to share his perspective on metal sailboats.

If you've been following my blog, you know that I occasionally like to feature guest posts from prominent sailing personalities that I think can offer some knowledge, perspective, and unique thoughts to my personal interest in sailboats, cruising, and the sailing life.

Ted took a little break from his somewhat regular musings here on Sail Far Live Free to cope with a fall that messed up some of the tendons in his hand, a bout with the flu, and an eightieth birthday.

But now that he's back on track and still cranking out sailboat design work! In fact, Ted was working on plans for a 45' steel hulled cutter with an aluminum deck for a client in Russia when I contacted him recently. What follows is Ted's response to my request for information about metal sailboats.

Steel yachts had been built in Holland and Germany for many years and I had imported a few in the late '50s and early '60s. But, with only oil paints to protect them, they required a great deal of maintenance and were susceptible to serious rust problems if not properly kept up.

Indeed, I've seen lovely 40 foot steel yachts from that era corroded to junk in years. A few custom aluminum yachts were built overseas, as well as in some quality yards in the United States, but aluminum was considered to be only for large and expensive craft; half the weight for twice the price was the popular conception. However, due to advance in the protection of steel hulls and the reduction in cost of aluminum, metal can be the material of choice for both custom-built and amateur built yachts and, today, steel and aluminum craft are commonly seen in almost every harbor.

Kaiulani 34 showing radius chine hull plated up. This particular boat was built in a barn in Canada and eventually sailed from the Far East to Australia on a multi-year voyage. Each material has its advantages but, in the main, the racing skipper will choose aluminum construction for its combination of lightness and strength. The cruising man, on the other hand, may prefer steel for its greater strength and lower initial cost, or aluminum for its longevity, low maintenance and high resale value.

Sailors interested in a metal yacht should know the pros and cons of the materials to make an intelligent choice, whether buying a used boat, building their own or ordering a new custom yacht.

Here are a few points to consider: Weight: The easiest comparison is that aluminum weighs about pounds per cubic foot and steel weighs pounds per cubic foot, almost three times as much. Strength: Comparing strengths is difficult because aluminum alloys lose strength after welding while steel does not.

The following table shows the differences between some typical alloys:. Alloy Un-welded Welded. Aluminum H34 44, psi 35, psi.

Aluminum H 51, psi 42, psi. Steel - Grade A 58, psi. Steel - Grade AH32 68, psi. Email This BlogThis! Anonymous February 6, at PM. Anonymous March 19, at AM. Anonymous March 5, at PM. Edwin June 29, at AM. Newer Post Older Post Home. Subscribe to: Post Comments Atom. Corten cutter, converted to radius chine, made a multi-year circumnavigation. Alaska 43 - Double chine hull that has crossed from America to Australia.

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