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37 Wood burning stove ideas | wood burning stove, floating house, house boat A wood stove is a great solution, but marine wood stoves are costly. The smallest ones available are still too large for the sixteen-foot sailing barge I intend to build (my own design) shown below. The smallest ones available are still too large for the sixteen-foot sailing barge I intend to build.
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New posts. Search forums. Log in. Home Forums General Liveaboard Link. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter jon68 Start date 25 Mar Joined 25 Mar Messages 6. Advice needed - considering buying a 36ft Sailing Yacht which currently has electric rads in the forward and aft cabins and would consider having a solid fuel stove in the saloon area - Pros and Cons?

OldBawley Member. One of the biggest plusses for wood or solid fuel heating and cooking is de chimney. Although the chimney may catch a sheet he transports the residue gas, smoke water and in some cases the tar outside. Cooking on a yacht is mostly done on gas. Burning gas creates water and heat.

Lots of water. About a bucket of water for one litre of gas. That water condenses inside. Big problem. Solid fuel heaters and cookers have a dry heat. No condense unless you are cooking with open pots. Kelpie Well-known member. I woukd say the biggest advantage of a solid fuel heater is the simplicity- not much to go wrong, so long as you are reasonably careful about what you put in it, and you keep the flue clean.

The smaller ones can be a bit fussy about fuel, as it can be hard to maintain a good fire that is very small in size. The larger ones can take a variet of fuels including scavenged wood but might overheat your boat!

Downsides: You need enough space for the heater inc sufficient spacing to any wooden bulkheads, furniutr etc. The flue will be happiest if it emerges roughly in a line with the mast, further aft may suffer downdrafts from the main, further forward may foul the jibsheets.

The flue may need to be quite tall use a removable extension to get good reliable draw. If you put resinous softwood into the fire you might get tarry deposits in the flue and possibly on your decks and sailcovers. A smaller fire will probably go out overnigt so you might wake up to a cold boat. Fuel storage and ash removal can be a problem.

Fit a carbon monoxide detector. We had small solid fuel stove, that came from an old static caravan, on a 33 ft ferro yacht. It was very nice to have it in winter, and came in handy now and then in summer, more often to dry the boat out after a soaking than to heat it, and was rarely used when we were under way. The chimney is problem. It gets very hot, so we had to put a vertical post in front of it, to stop anyone falling against it.

The chimney will not be as long as it should be, so the draught will be poor, and the fire will smoke until it gets going well. You can extend the chimney in winter. There will need to be a cowl to stop the rain, which will catch every rope on the boat, so it should be changed to a cap when sailing, or you will need a good supply of the cowls! But perhaps the most serious problem is the bulkhead behind the fire. We left an inch or two as an air gap there, and covered the bulkhead, which was made of fire-proof plywood, with ceramic tiles to protect it.

But when the boat came to live in a hot climate, and the stove was removed, we found the bulkhead charred right through under the tiles. It must have been close to starting a fire, possibly while we were asleep. A larger air gap would have been better, although on a smallish boat that is not easy.

A fan fitted on the deckhead by the chimney, and facing straight down, was a good addition. It cools the chimney, and warms the cabin, especially down by your feet. The stove carried a warning not to use bituminous fuel, but we did, as coal is so more efficient than wood, and easier to store, so after 10 years of misuse it started to fall to pieces.

I loved the fire, but in hindsight, it probably was a poor choice, caused by not being able to afford anything better. The stove cost 12 quid, second hand, and a good diesel heater was way out of budget. The other factor is that everyone seemed to be having problems with their diesels. Your choice! Joined 7 Jun Messages 1, Location On our way. Downside - your neighbour's might not be too happy. Recent wind shift brought some nice ash onto my boat from a solid fuel burner Joined 2 May Messages Wood must be dry to be fuel.

Water being the material of choice for the fire-brigade. Wood is also quite low density as a fuel in storage as opposed to oil, gas or solid-fuel. A multi-fuel smallest stove with suitable fireproof surrounds, and air gap that allows adequate air to convect around and a chimney that is insulated near any combustible material, and perhaps capable of being capped would be my minimum specification.

There are only a few small multi-fuel stoves, and most are too big. I spent 35 years as a stove retailer and most sales to boat-owners were for canal barges and not yachts. Of all the problems that faced us, the most significant and repetitive was the insistence of intelligent people in trying to prove that water burns. The resulting poor combustion and destructive distillation of wood into tar that then condenses in the chimney and catches fire when least expected was the source of most complaints of those who attempt to defeat physics.

If you drill too closely however, the drill point slides off into the previous hole. When this happened I flipped the piece over and came in from the other side. I used the lowest speed on the drill press and kept the belt loose enough that I could stop the chuck with my hand. This allowed me to drill without clamping thereby speeding up the process. If the bit grabbed, the drill would stall rather than spinning the piece like a whirling scimitar.

There is no guarantee the belt on any drill press will slip when you want it to. So if you are going to do what I did at least wear heavy gloves and in any and every case, safety glasses. Like Yacht Wood Stove Ltd my Dad used to say, "do what I say, not what I do" so folks I'm making no recommendation here. My advice is, always clamp your work and keep your hands clear. Once the piece was cut out, I put it in the vice and filed the edges to my scribed lines with a bastard.

Here you can see the draft control I made. The knob on the left is made of a piece of brass drilled and tapped to accept a screw which is installed in a countersunk hole from the back of the piece so it can slide across the front easily. The right knob is drilled and tapped for a screw that protrudes from the inside of the stove though a tapped hole. To adjust the draft I loosen the right knob and move the control to the desired position, and then tighten. The most time consuming of the whole project was making the door.

I wanted a window so I could see the cheery flame and avoid suicidal thoughts when it is raining. I was able to source a piece of stove glass quite cheaply from the local glass supplier - enough to make a few spares. I made a frame from mild steel the same thickness as the glass, and sandwiched it between an inside frame, and the door itself see test result at the end of the article. The glass frame, and rear frame are the same size as the stove opening.

The rear frame is drilled and tapped to accept screws, and the door and glass frame were drilled larger so the screw threads cleared. Before assembly I smeared it all up with stove cement. If you are wondering what those three things are on the door they are clamps called clecoes. They are really handy for this sort of work. Nothing dresses up a stove like this more than some brass trim. I found this brass fork at the local Salvation Army thrift store for two bucks.

I sawed the end off and mounted like a grill over the window - kind of a Poseidon's trident. I figured it would make it a little more nautical.

The hinge is a plain old door hinge, cut and shaped. I shimmed it so that it would make the door fit nicely with the gasket thickness taken into account. I used an anchor nut locked even tighter with a castle nut as a latch. A decorative brass handle made from another thrift store find is on the other end of the bolt. The gasket is glued on with a special wood stove gasket glue that is clear and looks like model cement.

I painted the stove with Yacht Wood Burning Stove 80 flat black Tremclad high temperature paint.

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