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He said, as did the mechanics there with us, that if you ever trailer a jon with a motor in the up position it should be supported by a transom saver and not with the built in servicing lock. I too agree that the motor mount should be drilled into the transom. Check youtube for videos of guys motoring without the mounts screwed in and you'll come across a pile of unhappy boaters whose motors are now deep in the drink! Good luck fishing and enjoy your new boat!
Team4LongGun Senior Member. Joined Aug 4, Messages Get a transom saver bracket-inexpensive and work great. No more motor bouncing around. Joined Mar 22, Messages 1, As above, if you're trailering with the motor lifted, you really need a transom saver. I don't want to be able to make it move at all.
I've never seen one that wouldn't work. Wentworth6 Member. Joined Jan 1, Messages X 2 on bolting it on. I put a atlas micro jacker on ours, jack plate for better performance. Tell that dealer to drive to your house to do it since they did not bolt it on. Rich M Senior Member. Joined Jun 14, Messages 1, Location Orlando. Great save! I had a 55 hp on a 17 ft and it popped off while running - thankfully the thrust pushed it up against the transom and I was able to wrestle it on board with help from another guy.
So here we are sitting with an anchor on the bottom of the boat and USCG shows up and starts yelling at us for anchoring there - told them we'd move just as soon as we put the motor back on. He was really mad an expected us to just motor away. Had another one shift up like yours while running it.
I like bolts holding my motors on these days. I trailer with the motor in the down position. That's how they hang. Tilt is for shallow water, not driving. If the motor hangs low enough to hit the ground, there is a trailer issue. Wallace Member. Bolt that motor on and don't think twice about it. I have a 15' Xpress jon boat that I've probably put at least 10, miles on a trailer with for duck hunting, likely much more.
I've had trailer issues in the past, but I've never had a worry about the motor coming off. Bolt it on and leave it in the 'down' position as long as you have plenty of clearance between the skeg and the ground. Any key points I need Diy Jon Boat Trailer Video to do while doing it? How high does it need to be for trailering? There maybe 8 inches of clearance from bottom of lower unit to ground on flat ground Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
AK Troutbum Senior Member. I have that same boat G3 , only a little bigger with a 50, and also have the motor bolted through the transom. You obviously won't have any more problems with it trying to come off if you bolt it on, but the same is true, if you just have it screwed down tight and locked like you have it now. Most people don't do through bolts on those smaller outboards and I don't think I would either, it's just not necessary.
It is a good idea to lock them on like you have done, just to help prevent theft, and you could just use a regular sized pad lock if you just flip the black handles over to where they are almost touching.
Anyway, just my experiences, for what it's worth. Great little boats by the way! Last edited: Sep 6, Joined Aug 1, Messages Location Briney foam.
Transom saver. It will prop the lower unit to a roller block on the trailer. Worry about propping the lower unit to the trailer, ie the saver will likely be shorter than the max height the motor can be propped up. Now multiply that by several hundred pounds and several thousand more times bouncing down the road. The saver will minimize that torque and help keep your transom un-fatigued. Click to expand AK Troutbum said:.
His motor weighs about lbs. By way of comparison, my motor weighs over lbs. I really don't think a pair of pliers clamped to a piece of sheet metal is a viable comparison. Good save on seeing that before it got worse.
Trailering is part of it, but it's also a fail-safe on the water. They're little torque-monsters and a buddy almost had one rotate off on the water. Totally his fault--the mounting bolts loosed up over miles of bad road.
Joined Oct 2, Messages Here are some thoughts: Please find a way to utilize a transom saver. You may need to look into an angled transom saver or chop something down and create a custom one.
Before bolting it down I would experiment with how deep you want to prop to run. Too shallow and you get prop blow out at hard turns. Just cut down a block of wood on a table saw and use that as a temporary spacer to figure things out. There is a bunch of videos and articles on the web that talk about how to get the most out of your prop height.
As a temporary measure I would blue loktite those existing bolts and keep a crescent wrench handy. Find a way to ratchet strap the back of the boat to the trailer. Also utilize a keeper chain on the front of the boat. The first is ready to go, simply pick it up at the dealer and start using it immediately. The second will require assembly. Although most trailer kits require limited tools and only basic mechanical knowledge to complete this assembly it is not for everyone.
Plus, there is the matter of a delay in use while the assembly is being completed. Most kits can be completed in an afternoon; however, this time can vary depending on your mechanical ability and whether or not you have assistance. Of course, it is not all bad news when it comes to trailer kits. Most utilize quality materials and once completed the resulting trailer is nearly as durable and long lasting as any of the pre-manufactured models available.
Most important and the reason many choose kits to begin with, is the reduced cost. A trailer kit, even one that includes all available features many of which are optional on traditional trailers will cost a fraction of the price of a pre-manufactured trailer. One important matter to keep in mind when selecting a trailer kit is Department of Transportation approval. While most kits by reputable makers will without question include DOT approved components it is important to verify this prior to making a purchase.
A trailer containing non-approved parts will not be legal to operate on the public roadways. Boat trailers are available in either single or dual axle models. Each model has advantages and disadvantages and it is important to select the model you need to ensure you will be able to safely tow you boat without damage to either it or your towing vehicle. Single axle trailers have a lighter weight capacity, but also weight less themselves.
While this will limit your overall capacity, it will also allow it to be towed by a wider range of vehicles, even smaller passenger cars. In most cases the lower overall capacity will not be an option as jon boats are much lighter in weight than pontoon or fiberglass models.
These smaller trailers will also be easier to move and can even be pushed into place by hand if necessary. Dual axle trailers are larger, more durable and capable of handling a much larger payload. However, they are more expensive and often require a larger more costly tow vehicle as well. Depending on the state in which you operate trailers of this size may also require annual inspection, another cost many owners do not remember to calculate into overall cost.
State inspection and safety laws will determine whether or not your trailer is required to have a braking system, something that is usually based on total weight of the loaded trailer. These same requirements will determine how many of the axles will need brakes, however, it is recommended that all axles be equipped with a braking system is possible. There are two brake systems available: electric and hydraulic. The electric system is simple, cheaper and easy to maintain.
It also allows the ability to brake the trailer independently, and before, the towing vehicle. However, electric brake systems tend to experience problems when used in a marine environment especially saltwater. This will lead to increases maintenance costs and potential failure. Hydraulic brake systems are best suited for larger trailer but do take some experience to use properly and without losing control of trailer.
Other drawbacks include increased cost and whether or not they are even available on smaller trailers. It supplies the strength needed to hold the weight of your boat and the stability needed to tow your unit safely. There are currently three options available when it comes to construction material: painted steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. Painted steel are excellent basic trailers and will hold up well when maintained properly and used in fresh water.
Although strong, a painted steel trailer will corrode quickly is exposed to salt or brackish water so this should be avoided. Galvanized steel is as strong as painted steel and, thanks to the exterior zinc coating, far more resistant to corrosion than painted steel.
Even with this protection galvanized steel will eventually rust, however, with proper care these trailers can be used in both salt and freshwater environments.
Aluminum is not only resistant to corrosion it is also lighter in weight than either of the other options. This makes it an excellent choice for saltwater and allows transportation by a wider range of vehicles. While corrosion will eventually occur, it is more easily addressed without permanent damage. Like the frame material hardware must be strong enough to withstand the tortures of use while still being protected from corrosion.
Unfortunately, aluminum is not a viable option when it comes to hardware. While it may be lighter and more resistant to corrosion aluminum is not a strong as steel, especially when placed under the stress normal for axles, u-bolts etc. For this reason, most hardware is either steel or galvanized steel. If using your trailer in saltwater it is important to remember that mixing unlike metals will increase corrosion. You may need to attach zincs to the trailer to provide additional protections.
If you are concerned about having long lasting, dependable lighting it is important you select models that include two features � DOT approved and submersible. The first is required for safe, and legal, operation on roadways. The second is necessary to avoid costly replacement costs every time you launch or retrieve your trailer and forget to unplug the lights. The trend today is towards LED lighting, which increases durability and life expectancy.
However, it is important to remember that LED lights will cost more and are more difficult to replace when they eventually burn out. Regardless of which lighting option you select, even if submersible and LED equipped, it is recommended that you shut off and unplug your trailer lights before submerging the trailer.
Even lights that are submergible are not truly waterproof and when the hot bulbs hit the cold water it is likely damage will occur. This answer to this question depends less on your boat than on where you boat, specifically where you launch or retrieve your boat. Although rollers are more common on larger boats, and certainly make their launch or recovery easier, their biggest advantage is when you encounter poorly designed ramps. On steep, well maintained ramps with enough depth close to shore, bunks work fine.
However, if using ramps that are shallow, in poor condition or involve tides, rollers will make the entire process much easier. Even if you have a Diy Jon Boat Trailer 900 lightweight boat, such as a jon boat, being able to roll onto the trailer will allow you to avoid backing vehicle too far down the ramp. Plus, the articulating roller assemblies allow boat to be driven on to the trailer with less resistance.
Most are easily repositioned by loosening a few bolts, although the number of assemblies in a roller system will make this a more time-consuming operation.
Bunkers should be inspected frequently for rot as the underlying material is usually wood. Rollers need to be lubricated and inspected as well. Rollers can crack and will need to be replaced. Very few small trailers, such as those used with jon boats under 18 ft. They can be added to almost any trailer as either an option or by replacing the bunks with aftermarket rollers.
The tongue, jackstand and winch are three items that are routinely overlooked in terms of their importance. Even veteran boaters tend to forget how important these three features are and fail to upgrade when doing so would be the difference between night and day when trailering. On many small boats the only option when it comes to the trailer tongue is coupling ball size. Even this is worth considering as it is not difficult to change the coupling unit as it simply bolts on.
Why would you change it? Instead of carrying two hitches, or changing the ball, simply change the coupler and you can use one ball for all your trailers. One of the most useful options on a tongue, if available, is the swing feature. When pinned in place the tongue allows normal towing, when unpinned the tongue can be swung out of the way to allow storage in a small space.
All but the smallest trailer needs a jackstand, otherwise you will be unable to lift it onto the hitch when loaded. However, not all jackstands are created equal. It is highly recommended that you select a jackstand the includes a wheel at the base, rather than a flat plate, and the ability to be swung up and out of the way.
The first option makes it much easier to make minor adjustments by hand when trailering or positioning your trailer. The second will allow for safer towing as it lessens the chances your trailer will catch on potholes, pavement edges etc.
Like the tongue a jackstand can be easily replaced or added if you trailer does not already have one. Some new boaters think that a winch is only needed if trailering a big, heavy boat. This is simply not true, and they will soon realize that. Although it is unlikely you will need an electric winch for a jon boat although they are nice if you are injured, elderly or have other who boat with you who may be unable to operate a hand crank winch you will need a winch just the same.
Otherwise, you will find that man handling even a small jon boat can be difficult. Winches come in many sizes and it is suggested that you select one that has a rating higher than the total weight capacity of the trailer.
This ensures that you will never find the winch under powered.
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