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Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold.
In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i. But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.
And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.
Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow. So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1.
Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc. In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity.
Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small. However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar.
And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.
If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc.
But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel. You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar.
Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make.
Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available.
But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases.
The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt.
However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.
In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty.
The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight.
Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating.
The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull.
The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides. As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously. From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best.
However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities. Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat.
However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.
Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard. Little Chief. Fishing and Utility. Dolly Varden.
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