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Build your own Western Skiff � part 1: the first steps - Practical Boat Owner

Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Plan. I am interested to know of anyone that has used the tortured compounded plywood method to build a monohull dinghy. What Skuff am working on is a singlehanded trapeze skiff, 4.

I want to cut down on the number of frse and stringers to save weight and possibly give a construction method that reduces the construction time. I have read the Gudgeon Brothers descriptions of the methods, which are all for multihulls. Their Tornado catamaran construction gives a significant degree of compound free skiff plans plywood university, and provides a nice fair shape for a cat.

Whilst ply would clearly struggle to provide for the full shape required for a beamy full round bilge monohull, I can't see why this method would not work for formation of the hull bottom which would terminate at a chine with topsides formed over frames along the chine free skiff plans plywood university gunwhale stringer as per standard ply construction.

What I have in mind is to scarf 4mm gaboon ply to give a full length panel in two halfs and glue fillet along the fere to provide the initial floor anlgles, then pull universtiy edges up and in to form the chine curvature, and compound section curvature in the free skiff plans plywood university. The finished shape I have in mind is a safer version of the I14, flat floored to the transon carrying the curvature close to the chine aft and slightly vee'd in the front third of p,ywood boat.

I'd planns any thoughts on. Cheers JD. JRDDec 13, There are a fre of tortured plywood designs available. The Gougeon brothers used it in multi-hulls because the shapes and curves where fairly easy compared to a "stiff" bellied dinghy. In the long term, what has been learned from these types of designs is you can easily exceed the panel strength limits with the pre-loaded stress from torturing.

The usual result in these cases is a catastrophic panel failure, along an unseen defect, which can really piss off a builder. Since, many have developed what they consider safe radius they can force specific thickness panels.

If interested I can email you a list of the radius figures I consider safe, though I don't know how these would compare free skiff plans plywood university some New Zealand designer's ideas of light and capable.

I've tested free skiff plans plywood university and you can't go much tighter in radius without the panel "complaining" a bunch, plywiod is the pre-load of strain "talking" to 'ya.

If you're attempting to do what I think you are, you should consider molding, which would permit you to use the shapes you want without most of the tortured plywood limitations. Two layers of 3 mm ply over a form, makes a tough, light little boat.

PAR free skiff plans plywood university, Dec 13, Thanks for your suggestions. Your comments and a look at some of the other posts around the site may have dampened my optimism about the compound ply method. I guess with a molded construction of the compound curved parts I will end up with exactly the shape of free skiff plans plywood university design instead plywoodd what the ply decides it wants to.

As this will be a hard chine design, Skkiff would need a method of joining the topsides to the bottom of the hull, could this be a stitch and glue, or would you recomend some other method? Will the molded hull shell hold its shape with out frames universihy stringers when I take it off the mold, or is it still going to fred on some internal framing to keep the intended curvature? With molding of this kind of hull, would you just butt-join narrow spiled sheets from keel to free skiff plans plywood university, then laminate on the second layer with the buttjoins offset by half a sheet width or would you run them diagonally?

Without knowing what you are doing, some rudimentary design parameters and expected loading, I'd just be guessing at scantlings, particularly for a light, preformance oriented craft.

Without offending you, how can I suggest you're out of your "comfort zone" in regard to the engineering aspect of the design? I think what I'm trying to say is your few questions are about a "loaded" as they come and would need considerable refinement to answer properly.

Yes, I would do a diagonal plywood veneer molding, palns a jig of furring strips closely spaced longitudinal stringers and station molds. You could employ an Ashcroft planking system for easier planking, but at a reduction of strength. A fore and aft planking univrsity wouldn't be my first choice with just two free skiff plans plywood university of plywood.

You could do an outer layer fore and aft with the inner layer on the free skiff plans plywood university. This would be weaker then typical double diagonal, but not by. Taped seam would univerdity the logical choice for joining the bottom to the topsides. A healthy fillet free skiff plans plywood university tabbing over lap will offer some insurance.

Yes, the molded plywood will hold it's shape without frames, though some reasonably equally spaced bulkheads and seating partitions are usually required to help hold things where you want them, also to resist slamming and rigging loads. This sounds like an arc bottom design more then a round bilge. The transition from bottom to topside planking will be skirf butt joint, but the joint will be ground back, skifff over a tad, then filled and taped.

This, in combination with the internal fillet and tabbing will hold the bottom to the topside planking. How much structure experience do you have? I prefer to use logs at the chines, because it makes it easy to free skiff plans plywood university and allows for a large radius.

Stich and glue seems like a time consuming method. I have never seen the advantage, in time or weight, compared to using a wooden log or framing. I am with Gonzo on the value of chine logs. There are several methods. I have found that, for a small boat the logs can be glued to the ply sheer planks while they are flat, then the reinforced plank can be bent over the frames; some folks put the logs outside, some inside.

I put them on the inside, and also add the inwales to the sheer planks so they are stiffened along both edges; a great help when using light ply on long floppy planks. The downside of using logs is, you cannot glass the free skiff plans plywood university I don't glass my boats anyway, but they are treated with care.

Stitch and glue is a technique using wire, cable ties, rree and skiff of holes drilled along the seams to help join the panels. Free skiff plans plywood university permits the assembly of cut panels with out the need of a jig, mold or traditional ladder mounted station molds.

There are different poywood in my opinion better assembly techniques then stitch and glue. I mentioned taped seam which is the actual build method of which stitch and glue is but one seam assembly technique as the best attachment. It's lighter and stronger then a solid wood log and it's not prone to hold debris, dirt or moisture such as can be on top of a log and it's skif lot easier to clean out with it's smooth and fair transition from topside to bottom planking.

The weight savings is well documented, just subtract the stringers, frames, floors and other structural elements from the assembled, raw hull weight and the percentage is clear. The best examples of these building techniques are the glued lapstrake hulls, where no internal framing but for a few bulkheads can be seen.

I've long but stopped using "stitches" to hold seams together, though occasionally a well placed stitch can solve a few problems. PARDec 14, I think what I'm trying to say is your few questions are about a "loaded" as they come and would need considerable refinement to answer properly" Not offended at all pplans I guess my question in reply was a bit loaded unintentionally as I have a few unlversity ideas based on boats I have owned over the years.

Your answer provoked an interesting new line of thinking I had not given much consideration to previously. I have sailed boats such as Free skiff plans plywood university 3. But have not built one from tree My initial tendency was to use a composite foam sandwich construction which I am familiar with for small scale work and is normal practice for small race boats these days.

But have univeersity getting more interested in the way that some more traditional methods could be applied to a modern hull shape and also keep the cost. Most likely I would ended up with a ply on stringer frame but suggestions so far do pose some interesting alternatives. I will try and get the my latest shape off paper onto cad so I can post it in the next few days.

JRDDec 14, Terry - Nice Kayaks, I like the simple methods for putting pplywood together, you have obviously put alot skuff free skiff plans plywood university into.

I'll have to get off my computer back to the sketch Plywood Skiff Plans Free 9th book to figure through a few of free skiff plans plywood university univfrsity. Im thinking the chine log vs glue fres will come down to what is most practical at the time. It was built using tortured ply methods out of 3mm Gaboon. JethrowJan 8, If it's going to be single handed, trapeze and 55kgs, just build a single or double chined hull.

It'll be up and planing very early. The later plywood 12ft skiffs here went to a single, high chine above waterline and curved the bottom panel, giving in effect a reasonably round bilge hull with a nice flat. The chines also started about halfway back along the rfee from the bow, most of one side of the boat was one joined piece of ply. Regards, Andrew. TyphoonJan 9, You can also make constant camber sheets with foam in between for stiffness, they will then be used to plaans the shape that has been predetermined LandlubberJan 9, Thanks so much for all your suggestions.

Jethrow - I have taken pllywood careful look at your construction photos Plams nice looking boat, I hope its getting plenty of use this summer.

What you have built is very similar to what I had in skirf when originally posting this thread. I have attached the current itteration of my design, its not quite there yet but close to what I am trying to achieve.

I'm not fixed on the concave flair evident in the topsides. I hope to find akiff to draft a hull shape that may be a little more plywoo for folding up as you have.

Based on your build experience I am interested to know if you think this could be done with the hull I have posted with the exta beam and curvature closer to the chines.

What was the final weight ready to sail? Andrew - I breifly owned a double chine 12 footer, although made of foam sandwich. This was about 20 years ago, which was about 15 years after its used by date.

This was lighter, faster and required 2 hours of repairs for every hour of sailing. The ply 12s were a wee bit before my time. Were they a ply over stringer frame, or tortured pland similar to Jethrow's International Canoe?

Terry - I dont think the ply over ribs fits with what Im trying to do, although I think it will work well on your new canoe. I look forward to seeing one under construction. This is the alternative I'm looking at, but would be likely be formed over stations univerzity laminating the glass to the foam.

Wood Boat Plans. Download your own set of free plans today: pbo. By lining up the two joints over the central tack � so the tack ran through both scarfs � Jeremy was able to glue up the garboards as a pair, one on top of the other, using sheets of plastic to stop them sticking to each other. When you do a power boat that is supposed to plane the situation becomes critical from the standpoint of control and of pounding to�. The bottom board is in place, and the garboard planks are being offered up. Longer than I can remember. Then it was time to get glueing.

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