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Often, the weather confined me to the garage, but when the sun emerged I worked in the driveway. If you want to get to know the neighbors, start building a boat. Linda from next door asked whether the craft would be sailed, rowed or powered by an outboard motor. Others wondered where I would go with it, how I'd get it there and what I would name it. A truck driver from Tulnoy Lumber, dropping off some marine plywood, approached respectfully.
These plans for a small and simple sailing boat design called a Biloxi Dinghy appeared in Popular Mechanics in May To simplify the project, I omitted the mast and centerboard. Instead, I built the Sea Scout, named after the craft in the original article, to be rowed or powered by an outboard motor. She works well in either configuration. Download the original plans [PDF]. Building Board: Like most small wooden boats, the Sea Scout was built bottom side up.
Most pieces aren't permanently connected until relatively late in the process, but every element of the frame had to be shaped to fit together precisely. The foot-long building board, made from a 2 x 10, held the parts in the right positions while the bevels were measured and again when it was time to join the frames together with the chine logs and planking.
Bottom Member: The frames underlying the dinghy's hull were fashioned from red oak. The curved section is the bottom member--each one was cut with a jigsaw and smoothed using a block plane. Side Member: The gently tapered oak side members meet the bottom members at a slight angle.
These pieces are cut oversize, then shortened to finished length. Gusset: The gussets joining the bottom and side framing members are cut from oak and fastened with epoxy and bronze screws, some of which ended up being too close to the gusset's edge. Cross-Spall: Cross-spalls support each frame during the building process. They're screwed to the side members and the building board.
After the planking is done, the boat is turned upright and the supports are removed. I don't know how Uncle Paul felt about it, but boatbuilding can be acutely frustrating. The bane of my weekends proved to be a small bronze screw. Like most modern How To Build A Dinghy Launching Trolley For DIYers, I'd been spoiled by drywall screws and other aggressive fasteners that practically plow into the lumber.
Even using a specialized, tapered drill bit and a waxlike lubricant with the unlikely name of Akempucky, I managed to wreck screws by the dozen. The head on one would strip a moment before the screw was fully seated, while another would shear off on the last eighth of a turn, leaving me with a shiny Frearson-head penny.
Timo had tried to downplay the arcana I'd face--"It's more like house carpentry than fine-furniture building," he had said--but I still found myself floundering on occasion. One challenge was that the article was more an overview than a detailed set of plans.
And, though it pains me to find fault with my forebears at Popular Mechanics, the sketch contained suspicious discrepancies. Timo helped me recalibrate some of the dimensions midway through the project--and I had to trim several pieces after they were assembled.
The biggest hurdle came when it was time to plank the hull. The classic way is to bend strips of solid wood to the frames. I'd chosen marine-grade fir plywood instead to save time, but now I was barely able to force the hull's inch sheets into place.
There was no way the half-inch plywood I'd planned for the bottom was going to work. Timo advised me to switch to a special, wafer-thin marine-grade plywood and plank the bottom in two layers. Perhaps we should note here that, although Eskimo-rolling a wide boat is no piece of cake, Tursiops can be rolled by a competent paddler. The point is that this kayak won't capsize easily � and if it does go over, wet rescues will be easier than for narrow boats. Tursiops's graceful lines belie its simple plywood and web-frame construction.
Ample deadrise "V" to its bottom, the good flare to its sides, and chines that sweep up toward both ends help ensure docile manners in rough water. And this boat avoids the slab-. Out in Shingletown, California, Erik Wahlman has developed a kayak that is similar to, and yet different from, Tursiops. Erik built his Greenland-style prototype by eye, and drew formal lines only after a photograph of the boat in WoodenBoat magazine elicited requests for plans from readers in Japan, Australia, and New Zealand, as well as the United States.
The Wahlman kayak shows a V-bottomed plywood hull not unlike the foot Tursiops, but the West Coast boat's greater length 18 feet and narrower beam 25 inches probably will make it somewhat faster and slightly less stable. Because maximum speed for this type of boat varies more or less according to the square root of its waterline length, and because stability is gained by increasing length, differences between these kayaks in both categories might be less than one would suspect.
Certainly, the boats could cruise in company and arrive at the campsite on the same evening. Be that as it may, if you're racing for cash money, choose the Wahlman design. On Tursiops, Mike Alford has made a nice job of working the tricky transition from the peaked forward deck for shedding water and providing foot room to the flat for securing gear after deck.
The sloped deck sweeps back past both sides of the cockpit and later blends with the flat center panel of the after deck. Designer Wahlman tackled, or perhaps avoided, the deck transition problem by specifying a choice of strip planking, cold molding, or a combination of both techniques.
These options are more labor intensive, if not more difficult, than Alford's clever plywood solution;. Simple and Able Touring Kayaks but the builders' efforts will be rewarded by the resulting voluptuous organic curves. Neither of these boats contains watertight bulkheads. So much the better. No boat, no matter the material of its construction, can be guaranteed to remain tight forever. If your kayak develops a leak, you'll want the bilgewater to collect in the cockpit from where it can be dumped overboard.
Alford specifies foam for positive flotation. Builders of the Wahlman boat can, and should, install airbags. Paddlers of either kayak might consider sitting in a sea sock � a large nylon sack that is secured over the cockpit coaming and prevents excessive amounts of water from entering the boat if the occupant is forced to leave.
Both Wahlman and Alford drew boats that do not require rudders for control. By so doing they lowered building costs, increased reliability what's not there can't break , and essentially assured that the owners of these kayaks will improve their paddling skills.
In the final analysis, it is the paddler's ability that completes the equation for Build A Wooden Sailboat 4d safe kayaks. Without competent handling, these boats are little more than remarkably unstable devices with high centers of gravity.
Paddlers who are unwilling, or unable, to learn the Eskimo roll and proper braces, might be better served by choosing a double-paddle canoe. Paddlers who are inclined to perfect technique and evaluate risks will find kayaks to be most personal and versatile watercraft. They can traverse wild water that would overwhelm open canoes or small pulling boats and then penetrate streams inaccessible to powerboats. Properly handled, kayaks leave tranquility untouched.
Box 78, Brooklin, ME ; Most of the time, designer Steve Killing draws sailboats � often large, nearly always fast sailboats. His work with paddling boats, though less well known, seems of the same high order. He drew this particularly striking foot touring kayak for canoe builder Ted Moores. The finely crafted lines drawings show an easily driven, slightly Swede-form hull. That is to say, the maximum beam is carried abaft amidships. This approach tends to produce kayaks that can be paddled fast; and, if the asymmetry isn't exaggerated, the boats handle predictably.
If we're designing a small boat to put out in tall waves, specifying some deadrise transverse V-shape to the bottom and rocker longitudinal, upswept curve to the keel won't hurt. Skilling calls for about 6 degrees deadrise amidships. He indicates 2 inches of rocker aft and 3 inches forward. The hull is fine-ended, but not particularly so for a kayak. A sharply raked stem and well-shaped forward sections will provide increasing buoyancy as the Endeavour 17 punches into large waves.
The fine run, and nearly vertical sternpost, will help ensure positive control when we're running off in a big sea one of the scariest elements of sea kayaking. In all, this hull has a friendly and competent look to it. The Endeavour 17 does not need a rudder. That's fine. They clutter the after regions of the hull. They usually result in spongy foot braces.
And they seem to pick awkward times at which to fail. Traditional Inuit kayaks apparently showed no trace of rudders until after the type had been degraded by modern, foreign influence. Should we ignore several thousand years of design evolution? We'll build Endeavour's hull and deck with M-inch-thick cedar strips, sheathed inside and out with fiberglass cloth set in epoxy.
The strips' bead-and-cove edges will facilitate our fairing the hull and almost preclude the appearance of gaps between the planks. We are going to finish this boat bright. He explains that this arrangement allows easier hull-deck assembly and ensures a quality joint all the way to the ends of the boat. Endeavour's plans call for a forward and an after bulkhead � along with the hatches needed to access the resulting compartments.
I suggest eliminating the whole works. This strong, monocoque hull seems less likely to sustain damage if it is allowed to flex upon impact. With the above in mind, let's increase the overhang of the coaming's lip from the specified Vi inch to about 1 inch.
We don't want the spray skirt and sea sock popping off every time we inhale. All right, if we get rid of the bulkheads and hatch covers and sheathe our Endeavour with 4-ounce. Plans for the Endeavour 17 are available in the U. The sheer clamp is secured to the deck first rather than to the hull, as is the usual sequence. This procedure allows for accurate positioning of the hull and deck for their final assembly.
Not bad for a kayak that will take us just about anywhere along the coast. And won't it look sharp! Vthe same family, but they are second cousins � not identical twins. The boats share the hard chines and upswept ends of their Greenland ancestors, and they share clean stitch-and-glue plywood construction. But the comparatively low 7-inch-high sides at the cockpit and narrow ZVA-inch Seguin is a highperformance touring boat that will challenge and reward experienced paddlers.
Glen-L's Sea Kayak 9-inch-high sides at the cockpit and 24 inches wide is a pickup truck that will build beginner confidence and carry a lot of gear.
These kayaks show a similarity of form that belies their variance in proportion. Beyond any reasonable doubt, Seguin, with its finer lines and less beam, will be the faster, more easily driven of the pair, and the Glen-L will be initially more stable.
Both boats have little flare in their topsides. This configuration combines a relatively wide bottom for stability with a narrow deck for light weight and ease of double-bladed paddling, and it might soften the shoulder of the stability curve. We should be able to lay Seguin right over on its side and hold it there with a good high paddle brace. Eskimo rolling will prove smooth and easy. Bryan's drawings illustrate the thigh braces and other foam padding needed to fit the cockpit to our own dimensions if we're to pursue such sport.
The Glen-L boat, similarly outfitted, can be braced and rolled, too � though the final degrees might prove diificult for some paddlers.
Spectators watching sea kayaks working into a heavy chop sometimes comment on the daring of the pad dlers. In fact, blasting to windward is the easiest part of rough-water kayaking in terms of the skill required. Sea kayaks, with their low profiles and pointed noses, love that game. The real test of operator ability occurs when paddling across, or off, the wind.
Some kayaks tend to dig in and root when traveling with wind and wave. With the wind on the beam, many kayaks insist upon rounding up to windward as predictably as a well-oiled weather vane � whether or not we want to go in that direction. In simple terms, here's the reason: As we propel the kayak ahead through flat water, pressure builds evenly on both sides of the bow. But, if a breeze springs up, say, over our right shoulder, it will nudge the boat to the left, causing the pressure under the lee port bow to increase and turning us to windward.
The harder we paddle, and the stronger the wind, the more the boat wants to weathercock. We can mitigate the problem by pushing hard against the weather foot brace the right one in this case. This simple, if somewhat unnatural, act leans the boat into the wind, which creates effectively asymmetrical waterlines more convex on the weather side and somewhat straighter on the lee side that tend to turn the boat away from the wind.
Also, pushing hard with our weather foot automatically increases the power in our weather arm. Of course, altering various elements of hull shape � such as building in more freeboard forward and more draft aft, or reducing the prismatic coefficient � can help us.
If we wish, a fixed skeg can be fastened to the bottom, well aft. But this solution often isn't totally effective, and it forever limits the kayak's maneuverability and increases its draft. Another remedy involves fitting an instantly adjustable sliding seat. Moving this seat aft while underway trims the boat down by the stern, reducing weathercocking.
It's efficient, but some paddlers don't like the loose fit of the large cockpits required by sliding seats. All of the above notwithstanding, foot-controlled rudders supply the most commonly applied cure for sea kayak control problems. Modern store-bought rudder systems can be impressive pieces of engineering, and they work well.
But they are expensive, they're not immune to breaking, and their foot-pedal controls tend to be less firm than we would like.
Despite clever on-deck storage systems, the rudder blades are never completely out of the way. They can ruin themselves, or the paddler, in surf or rescue situations. When cocked at an angle to the hull's centerline in order to prevent weathervaning, they can cause more drag than a simple skeg.
And, contrary to popular opinion, rudders usually make kayaks less � not more � maneuver-able. As may be, some designers are loath to spoil the symmetry of their creations by mounting oddly shaped aluminum plates on the kayaks' sterns. When paddling Seguin, we'll lower its retractable skeg a small quadrant-shaped centerboard, really to balance the kayak on a beam reach and to improve directional control when running off.
We'll raise it to let the boat head into the wind and to carve tighter turns. Note that the skeg fills its trunk below the waterline at all angles of adjustment, thus reducing turbulence. Both boats are built using virtually the same construction sequence: cut the hull panels 4mm plywood for Seguin, and 4mm or 14 inch for the Glen-L to shape, bend them around two permanent bulkheads and one temporary mold, and stitch them together with copper wire.
Then, work thickened epoxy fillets into the seams on the interior of the hull, and remove the wire ties. Golden Bay by John Welsford Sporting sailor with a lot of performance for the money. Corsair 13 by Bateau. Tread Lightly by John Welsford The littlest practical cabin cruising yacht.
Houdini by John Welsford Serious, a sailing dinghy with space to sleep two or daysail four. Stealth by Woods Designs 14ft high performance racing dinghy. Pixie by Woods Designs 14ft fun beach catamaran. Quattro 14 by Woods Designs 14ft single trapeze beach catamaran. Moonfish 14 by Bateau. Caravelle 16 by Bateau. Adelie 14 by Bateau. Rogue by John Welsford A daysailer with sneaky speed.
Navigator by John Welsford A really popular daysailer and cruising dinghy. Fafnir by John Welsford A tough little cruiser for one or two. Alexa's Rocket 15 by Bateau. Catbird 16 by Chesapeake Marine Design Sailing camp cruiser. Adelie 16 by Bateau. Quattro 16 by Woods Designs 16ft twin trapeze beach catamaran. Yorkshire Coble by John Welsford A smaller plywood version of the English surfboat: row, motor, or sail her.
Pathfinder by John Welsford Bigger Navigator. Sweet Pea by John Welsford A Performance sloop or a cruising yawl with two bunks and a space for the cooke. Waller TS 5. Cat Ketch 17 by Bateau. Swaggie by John Welsford A mighty, miniature long range cruiser.
Sport Boat 18 by Bateau. Vagabond 18 by Bateau. Moreton Bay Sharpie 5. Vagabond Plus 20 by Bateau. Acorn by Woods Designs Simple 2 berth trailable catamaran with hard chine hulls. Penguin by John Welsford A classic trailer yacht with serious space inside.
Janus by Woods Designs Simple 4 berth trailable cat with dory hulls.
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