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I put in it with hose clamps but it leaked, sailboat.
Little tool expertise is good! Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips Desode said:. Hi Loop Dad, Welcome to Iboats. The floor weight does help with the wind, plus I usually have the boat loaded up pretty well. I would say the floor is probably a total of pds. I some times use a anchor if its really windy. You actually want two anchors if you want to stay really well positioned. If you use one, the wind will still blow you around where the one anchor is set.
Two small anchors, one in the front and one in the back is what you want. As for controlling the boat with the trolling motor while fishing,, It was hard until I put in a swivel bass seat in and figured a couple of things out. Having the seat helped a lot and enabled me to spin to the left, so I can use my left hand on the motor and cast with my right.
Another tip is when trolling the shore, don't troll forward. Its difficult to troll the shoreline from spot to spot when the trolling motor is in the rear of the boat, because your pushing instead of pulling. This makes the front end wander. You will notice that most boats have the trolling motor in the front, and it pulls the craft forward instead of pushing it, and this is the reason.
What I do is drive the boat pushing to the area of shoreline that I want to fish and then I use reverse on the Trolling motor to pull the boat forward when I'm working the shoreline and since the Mariner 4 is shaped the same way at both ends so you can do this with no problem. This way you will have way more control when trolling and working a section.
Even if you only have 1 speed in reverse that's still plenty of speed to just work shoreline. So try doing it that way and you will notice a Huge change in your ability to steer and fish. Remember Pull instead of push. As far as building goes,, If you don't have a lot of tools or wood working skills , or no friends that do,, like I was blessed with,, I would suggest trying a simple setup so that you can get more enjoyment out of your boat.
You could get a thin piece of marine plywood for say just the rear section by the trolling motor and put it down on top of the slat floor. The Slat floor gives you a outline of how big to make it shape wise, and since the slats are close together it will strenghen a thin sheet of plywood or maybe even some kind of Textured Plastic Sheet. Just keep this in mind, The very ends of the floor section have a slight angle to them, so I'd start a little bit from the back with the plywood if you just wanted to do a one piece section for you and a seat.
Something simple like this Intex Excursion 5 Person Inflatable Boat Key would let you set a little swivel fold out stool on that section or even put a swivel bass seat on it. As for putting the boat into the water, I mostly just use boat ramps. I back my car down and then unroll the boat by the edge of the water say a foot away.
Once its set up and ready to go, I then push it into the water. Its a tough piece of rubber and it won't hurt it at all when pushing it on concrete or rocks into the water. Just keep it balanced on that keel and your good to go. I am still working on it. With limited skills, tools and the space, it is not easy but I am dreaming of the day I Intex Excursion 4 Inflatable Boat Set Key am fully standing up on the boat and flipping for bass.
That's my drive there I ended up getting 0. It feels just about right. The total weight compared to the original roll up floor is about lbs extra, which is better than I expected. I cut the wood to the size of the hard roll up pieces. After I cut all four pieces, somehow the two center pieces were too long, so I trimmed one inch each.
Then I put them in the boat again Noooo, they were too short! My mistake was when I tried out the first time, I didn't fully inflate the boat. With angled floor, somehow that screwed me up. I attached the cut 1 inch strips back to the boards with screws. It looked very ugly and worried this might cause some damage. However, when I put the pipe insulation materials around the boards, everything became too tight and too long.
I was able to remove the 1 inch strip of ugly wood. I'm getting there, but I am still at a loss of how to attach the angled end pieces to center pieces. I cut the piece of wood to join, just like Desode has on his picture. I am thinking of shaving off from the bottom of the connecting piece a bit at a time to achieve the angle.
This might be very time consuming thing, I don't know. All I have to do is sanding attachment for my hand drill. If anyone has better idea, I appreciate it.
BTW I only have a hand drill and circular saw. Joined Jun 27, Messages I'm going to be adding a hardwood floor to mine soon, I'll share pics of how I did it. All you really need to do it properly, is a jigsaw with a decent blade, a palm sander and a little patience. When you get the proper templet drawn on the plywood with a sharpie, remember, you can always take more off, but you can't put more back on, take your time.
And when you get the floor to fit snug, not to snug, you're gonna want to sand it down smooth, no rough edges or spliters. I will likely seal it with a deck stain, something like superdeck will work well because it has linseed oil, and tongue oil in it. After the deck stain dries, I'll hit it with coats of low gloss or matte finish polyurethane. I'm not going to stop at just the floor though, I'm actually going to build custom fit wood benches in the boat to fit it perfect, so I'll have storage space underneath them.
I bought some canoe seats that will stap down nicely to the benches after I finish them. I'll probably carpet the top of the benches with marine grade carpet to finish it off nice. Having that much storage will allow me to run two batteries in battery boxes with charge meters for long days on the lake. I have a Minn Kota Endura 45, I think anything more than that is just overkill, extra drain on the battery.
I would say that having at least a amp battery is key, if you plan on trolling a lot, that will give you at least 4 hours of time on the water, without wind at low speeds. The center bench seat will have a built in hidden cooler with a small seat pad on it. Each bench seat with internal trolling pole holder mounts, depending who's sitting in the boat, they will have the option of clicking in a holder should they need it.
I think there is more than enough room in this boat to add everything I mentioned without the clutter. If you really would like to learn about utilizing space for a boat like this you should watch a few youtube video's on how how kayakers outfit their rigs, they have limited space, probably half the room as we have with a M4, and they seemingly add all the bells and whistles easily. I'm a total perfectionist and like the challenge of turning a small raft into the ultimate fishing boat.
I have a ford explorer with a roof rack right now and live 15 minutes - 20 minutes from several of my favorite fishing holes, I'm lucky in that respect, transport is easy.
I do plan on getting a small trailer at some point, you can find really decent priced trailers at Harbo Freight online. One other idea I had that might help make things slick is to line the underside of the floor with pvc pipes that will lay in the grooves of the original boat floor, if one were so inclined, you could also use those pipes for running electrical wires, easy to seal the tubes with pvc end caps, and you can drill holes in them and seal them up nice.
You can find battery powered night lights for small watercraft online, Ebay is good. Just always assume anything you add to your boat will probably get wet, and if you're going to go to the trouble of making mods to your boat, don't buy crap, buy decent stuff and take your time so it will stand up to time. I'll post some pictures up when I put the floor and bench seats in. Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips It took me two weeks to do the hardwood floor project.
The design is the exact copy cat of Desode's pic. To be honest, I do not want to do this again. I rather spend time fishing. However, the difference was, like Desode said, Night and Day. I am very happy with the result! My daughter and I went to a lake this weekend.
She now wants to be standing on it all the time when she fishes. The hardwood floor of the rear section is very nice that battery is so stable. I was planning on mounting two batteries in the mid section of the boat and run an extension cable to the trolling motor.
Pricewise, it is the most affordable inflatable boat in its class and size. It can accommodate up to four adults with plenty of room to spare. You can also take this boat in swamps with thick reeds and bushes because it is made of heavy-duty and puncture-resistant PVC. So you can be sure that this boat can take rough and tough conditions on the water. The Intex Excursion 4 Boat has plenty of features, making it very safe to use. Apart from its solid I-beam floor, the Excursion 4 boat has three air chambers.
There are two air chambers on both sides and a third auxiliary chamber inside the main hull. Click here to see it on Amazon. And if one of the chambers fails, you can still row yourself ashore as two other chambers will support you and your buddies.
As far as comfort is concerned, the Excursion 4 is still ahead of its competitors. Two inflatable and adjustable seats complete with backrests come with this inflatable boat. You can also relax while fishing in this boat since it has two built-in fishing rod holders. The boat also has motor mount fittings in case you want to add a trolling motor to make your boating experience easier and more fun.
A trolling motor will allow you to travel much farther than simply rowing this family boat. Also, the convenience of boaters is one of the considerations in the design of this inflatable boat. It is equipped with two grab handles, one at the front and one at the back. Moreover, the boat has oar holders and oar locks, including an all-around grab line.
These features will make it easy for you to carry the boat to-and-fro the water. In this review, the reviewer shows all the main features of the Intex Excursion 4 boat. He showed the oar locks and the seats with backrests that clip on the boat so that they stay in place. One great addition, he says, is the motor mount kit. It is held in place by strong mounting screws. The plate is also made of very durable synthetic material strong enough to hold a 3 horsepower motor.
Based on 1 review. We purchased the Excursion 4 set with oars and pump from Intex directly as most other sellers had it marked up significantly, or were out of stock. After using it a little, I can say we are happy with it as an introduction to inflatable boats. Also slightly annoying, the inner chamber for the floor has a pinch style nozzle rather than a boston valve making deflation much more difficult as you have to physically pinch the valve as you lay on the boat to deflate it.
The two large outer chambers have valves you can unscrew to let the air out, which is much easier to do. Overall the material and build quality of the boat is just fine, and if treated well and properly stored it will probably last years. Ocean or lakes with other motorized craft will likely get some water in your boat at some point. Other reviews on other sites mention the oars are not great.
I agree. We settled on two people sitting side by side and each using an oar as a paddle, but that was inefficient and we eventually gave up and just floated around, and only used oars to adjust direction, or to spin the boat.
You probably will need a small trolling motor to use it to cruise around in, or upgrade to much longer oars. But for something you break out once in a blue moon, and store away most of the year, this is a great little raft for just relaxing in and floating.
Rating Required Select Rating 5 stars best 4 stars 3 stars average 2 stars 1 star worst. Email Required. Review Subject Required. Comments Required. Two 54in aluminum oars. Two inflatable seats with backrests. Grab handle. All-around grab line. Two pairs of welded oar locks. Two pairs of oar holders.
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