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A Detailed Guide To Scratch Building a Model Ship | lauckstreetshipyard

Creating a ship for Pioneer, step by step. This step by step tutorial is intended to guide contributors trough the process model ship building from scratch map modeling, texturing and setting up a ship, and then putting it into Pioneer. It won't cover basic modeling or design questions in depth, but it will be more like a case study on ship creation, from idea to model ship building from scratch map it into a mod file.

Note that this article isn't intended to be a tutorial on these tools. You can also use any other program you are familiar. They need to be able to handle some formats like Collada. It's important to have a good structure for your source materials. It makes life easier both for you and anybody else who needs to work on your creation later. I do it this way for example:.

This is not really a technical thing, but a good practice when you are model ship building from scratch map on assets intended into official Pioneer. First step is to visualize any idea before you dive into modeling. It's easier to try different things, proportions, shapes and such, or to get feedback before you sink hours into something that turns out to be a dead end. The nice thing about these is that they don't need to be pretty. You can doodle something with a ball point pen, or put some primitive shapes together in 3D.

Checking the silhouettes is also a good idea, since that is what our eyes notice. You can find a bunch of thumbnail sketches on the dev forums. A larger sister of the Mola Mola. The basic idea is a rounded cone-like shape, with a three-way symmetry along the longitudinal axis. One main point is that Kaluri workhorse crafts have a relatively simplistic and compact build. Also it should look like if it could be a tail-sitter. The basic structure is quite similar to the Mola Mola, even if the nose is more tapered.

OKB Kaluri ships tend to be round with smooth curves and some abrupt shape terminations, like the tail side of this craft, as model ship building from scratch map can see on the thumbnails bellow. Another typical Kaluri features are the high visibility cockpit area and the heat-sink fins near the engines. The former is a subject of some debate as if Kaluri invented this layout and Mandarava-Csepel Shipworks stole the idea, or vice versa, since the two companies are doing corporate espionage like if it was a sports competition.

Cargo hatches will be on the sides and on the top too, and there will be a docking collar over and back to the nose. This painting shows the direction I want to take this ship. At least three times as long as the Mola Mola, which makes it about half the length of the Vatakaraso it will be along the line of the Deneb. Pioneer uses Y as the longitudinal axis of the ship, X for left-right and Z for up-down.

You need to align your ship with this in mind. Objects are how Blender represents discreet elements of your model. The mesh of your model all the vertices and edges and faces and such Pioneer uses an object's properties to place it in game. A common mistake is to scale or rotate the object when the intent was the mesh. In these cases make sure you are in Edit Mode before starting any manipulation on the object.

See: Object Mode and Edit Mode. Before exporting, the scale of any object should be 1 on all axes to avoid problems and distortions. Rotation and position can be anything that makes sense while you work on the model, but it should be model ship building from scratch map 0,0,0 and align with the axes above in the end.

The first I usually do is setting up reference images in the viewport, so I can see the concept art, or even orthographic views. You can set it up in the right-side panel of the 3D view N-panel. You can change a lot of things like image opacity, scale model ship building from scratch map position, and you can also choose the view, where the image is visible.

The other image below shows a part of the render settings in the Properties window. Modifiers can change an object in certain ways, like mirroring it or smoothing, to name the two most popular one. They can make the modelers life a lot easier in different ways. They can be found under the icon in the Properties window. For this ship's fuselage I will be using a bit more complex setup at first, because of the trilateral symmetry.

Each modifier has a line of icons, for enabling and disabling them for different modes, like during render, object mode or edit mode. They should be on in object mode if you want to export the model to collada without applying them. This one will basically halve the amount of work we have to do, because it will mirror everything we do on one side of the mesh, along the origin pivot of the object. If the mesh is in correct orientation see axes above, newly created objects are usually set up correctlythen the default settings are good.

Except for the Clipping option in the second column, which stops vertices from moving to the other side of the model, and stick them on the mirroring plane if they touch it. This is usually very helpful, because it prevents a lot of extrusion and smoothing errors. You want this to model ship building from scratch map on most of the time.

The thrid column is about texture UV layout. If they are on, the unwraped texture will also get mirrored on the respective axis of the layout.

U for horizontal, V for vertical. They are disabled here, because I will apply all of these modifiers later, and add another Mirror, where U will be enabled more on this in the Unwraping section. This one is usually not needed, but it's a big help in this case because of the trilateral symmetry model ship building from scratch map the fuselage. What it does is repeating the object in any direction, distance and number.

Useful for lightposts along a road for example. This way I only have to model one side of the hull, and it's repeated on the other two, which is very helpful, since I don't have to worry about symmetry at all. The Merge option is important here, because I want to have a continuous surface all. The Distance setting for it governs, how close the vertices need to be to get merged.

This modifier will be applied on the model when the base shape is ready, so I can work on the not tri-lateral parts of it. This is another very handy modifier when you need to model smooth surfaces, or organic shapes. It subdivides each face into four and smooths model ship building from scratch map to create curved surfaces. It's very handy because you can have a dense smooth mesh but model ship building from scratch map don't need handle each and every vertex in it.

Although you need to have a quad only mesh most of the time, because triangles and ngons can mess with the subdivision and smoothing in very ugly and unpredictable ways. The Catmull-Clark method is preferred, because the Simple subdivision just subdivides the faces, but doesn't smooth. The Subdivision option sets the number of iterations it does for the viewport and the render. Model ship building from scratch map you don't want it to be larger then 1 for the viewport.

Subdividing the UV-s usually a good thing, especially if model ship building from scratch map are doing organic, but since I will apply the modifier before unwraping the model, it doesn't make much difference for me.

The optimal display is helpful if you can't select model ship building from scratch map vertices because of model ship building from scratch map smoothing. An important thing to note is that the order of the modifiers in the stack counts. A lot sometimes, since each modifier does it's work on the mesh it gets from the modifier above it.

You can move the modifiers up and down in the stack with the little triangle arrows on the upper right corner of each modifier. In the above case, the smoothing would be much sharper on the three outter edge of the model if the SubSurface would model ship building from scratch map over the Array modifier in the stack, since it would first smooth the mesh, and it would duplicate it after the smoothing already happened. Array first and then mirroring would give a quite different result.

Since I don't have ortographic views for this ship, I will set up the render camera to have model ship building from scratch map on the model similar to the concept image. I've also imported the Mola Mola model to have a scale reference.

You don't need to bother with this most of the time, especially if you have ortho views for your model. Usually I prefer to work this way, because it's easier for me to work with an image where the craft is in percpective. UV unwrapping your mesh is the needed step to prepare your model for texturing. This is how you tell your 3D modeling program and Pioneer for that matterwhere each pixel on the texture goes on your model. Doing the unwraping tends to be a strange and disliked part of the modeling process, but it is not that bad actually.

Sure it is tedious and sometimes boring, but it can be learned to do it easily, effectively and fast. In my experience it can be quite calming too, when you get the hang of it. It is problem solving, but in a puzzle way. You unwrap your model quite similar to the way you make those papercraft modelsjust in reverse. You just need to cut some edges of your model, so it can be unwraped. Actually it can be used to make these kind of models.

First you will need to set up your UI for it. How to customize the interface of Blender. Now that we prepared the workspace, we can get right to it. This will most likely turn your mesh into a solid white-is color if not, then hang in there, I'll get to it pronto. Set it from Blank to to Color grid. It will give you a colorful numbered grid texture, which should also be visible on your model:.

It might not look like this right away, because Blender handles this texture display a bit strangely. If that doesn't help either, make sure your viewport shading mode is in Multitexture in the right side panel, and delete any lamp from the scene.

GLSL viewport shading or if you are working with the Cycles rendering engine, you need to give the mesh model ship building from scratch map material with a shader, and assign that image to it for color.

This stuff is just like epoxy resin with the added bonus of only hardening when exposed to about 30 minutes of strong sunlight. You will want to make the keels long enough to overlap the base plate at least 3 inches. Mantua Ship Model Plans sets are the same as those as supplied in their kits. Strike Models Note : We advise talking to someone who has already built a ship from scratch, as they can be a big help. Corel Model Ship Plans.
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