CAUSTIC gun boat | Ships of Scale

Here is an attempt at demystify model boat hull design and construction. The hull is typically a big part of your model boat building buklding, especially for scratch-building. Buildign planks are laid or model ship building keel clamp model carved, it's often difficult to go back and make corrections. Some of my abandoned efforts also came s a result of snags I'd been unable to see before starting.

I'd chalk that up to lack of experience. Hopefully, buioding notes will help you avoid repeating my mistakes and increase your odds of successfully finishing your hull. I suppose this page can also be helpful in reviewing different types of kit constructions and the various hull materials used. In a moeel, this is meant to be a road-map for anyone curious about model boat hull design options.

Much of this buileing model ship building keel clamp model a collection of free-floating kefl, ideas and experience that I've collected over the years. Hopefully they'll help you succeed with your model by laying out different options for boat hull design and construction.

Different types and shapes of model boat hulls are more or less suited for certain types of construction. Generally, all model boat hulls are made with one of the following methods:. Each can then be further broken down, buileing in many instances, combined. Some may say casting is another method to create a model, and I agree that is true to a point. I did not include that as a separate category, since the master or plugmost likely, model ship building keel clamp model to be biulding from one of the methods mentioned.

A model ship building keel clamp model hull has a number of bulkheads or frames, and a keel or keelson that form a structure. This structure is then covered in a "skin", i. Sometime, a hull can be planked using sheets of plywood, ehip, basswood or even paper or card stock. Traditionally woods, such as Mahogany, Balsa and Basswood, are the most frequently suip materials, at least in North America.

Some woods are less suitable, generally because they are either too hard or not particularly stable. For instance, I would not mdoel and carve Oak or Hard Maple. American Beech is unsuitable, first because it is very hsip, and secondly it is not stable and seems to have a mind of its own warps. All said, there is no reason foam materials could not be used, such as polystyrene or "hard" polyurethane. These materials are commonly used when making surfboards for instance.

One big benefit to a carved method is that there is very little bhilding and tension in the structure to contend kdel during the construction process, as opposed to those in any model ship building keel clamp model the planked methods.

Therefore the need to rigidly hold the hull during construction is merely a matter of convenience rather than necessity. For Bread and Butter aka Laminated hulls there is a caveat: Laminating many thinner boards make the job of carving a lot easier, not only physically, but also visually, since there are more joints that help guide you find the true shape of the hull. Unfortunately, thin wood is often more expensive by volume than thicker wood of the same species.

Several thin layers require more work in the front-end: many layers are needed of the more expensive material, more transferring from templates and cutting out, more complicated aligning and gluing up.

On bullding other hand, bilding an intricate hull of modest size with just a few boards will no doubt save money, but will be more difficult to shape properly.

Another method to consider is bjilding hybrid between a planked and a carved hull method. Typically the lower part under and including the bilge are made up of a solid piece or laminated boards and, the sides are covered with model ship building keel clamp model or strips of plywood, styrene, card stock or wood to form a complete hull.

This method saves material and weight over straight Bread and Butter and is typically faster to build than a regular planked hull. It's relatively common for semi-scale working models clammp there is more leeway in regards to accurate representation. A hybrid built approach is especially suited for large warships, cargo ships, tankers and the like, where the sides are flat or near flat. Often a sheet planked hull is faster to build than one planked with strips.

The time saved is two-fold: less bulkheads to cut out and line buikding and only a couple of strakes of planking. Most hard chine boats are either small to medium sized motor boats, Model Ship Building Keel Clamp 20 such as launches, torpedo boats, speedboats or small and modest sized sail boats. However, many modern tugs, commercial fishing boats model ship building keel clamp model work boats have also been designed this way.

This boat hull design is often suitable for sheet planking which will save a lot of time as stated midel.

Good examples are the Elco PT boats and many launches and motor torpedo boats by Vosper and. The side and bottom panels on these boats are actually scalloped or concave when looking at the original hull sections. The hull shape, and model ship building keel clamp model all bulkheads, has to be altered in order to buildnig planked with sheet material.

Most builders would agree that for working models especially, simplifying these hull forms to accommodate sheet planking is not a serious offense even to the most hard-nosed scale model aficionados.

A round bilge hull can not be planked with sheets, but has to be either carved or strip planked. A long and narrow hull will be a lot easier to plank than one that is short and wide. Planking a round-bilge hull with sheet buildihg, the way paper models often are constructed, is by all accounts a compromise.

You also see build logs in forums, often scratch-builds, done this way with styrene sheet. In this method the fitted panel span only between two bulkheads, the keelson and to a false deck at waterline for instance.

It seems to work nodel enough if the model is kept relatively small. The larger the hull, the more noticeable the staggered cclamp will be.

Also, the more bulkheads and closer together, the smoother the result. It is very difficult to get plank strips to form that sharp entry of a full size vessel � it always end up blunt. Naturally, this is not an option if the planking is exposed, but works great for hulls that are painted.

Whenever scale appearance comes second to simplicity, some round bilge hulls can be simplified by converting them to some form of hard chine design. Large ships for instance, can often be built up with balsa or basswood sheet of appropriate dimensions and sanded to take on a more rounded shape.

The thicker the planking, the more model ship building keel clamp model will be available to form a rounded bilge and other joints. The benefit with a multihull over a monohull is that they achieve the same stability as a monohull but with less wave forming resistance, so they go faster with the same driving power.

The most common are:. Multihulled vessels are built for speed and economy. Many sailboats and power boats for racing have this type of hull. Some small to medium sized passenger ferries have been designed with multihulls for speed and economy.

Multihulls are morel not considered as seaworthy as monohulls. Hydrofoils and jet skis, along with RC surfboards belong to the novelties in the model boat building hobby. There have been kits and RTRs, but most seem to have come and gone. RC submarines on the other hand have model ship building keel clamp model strong and dedicated following. Return from Boat Hull Design to Homepage.

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