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Three months after adding the black strake and walesI finally got around to planking the hull. I had been putting hull planking off for quite some time.

The hull of model ship building planking zone Model Shipways Fair American is more difficult to plank than my previous Bluenose build because there are tight curves at the bow and stern.

On the Bluenose, Model ship building planking zone was able to just glue the planks down without much planning or preparation. However, the Fair American requires more attention to. The hull is radically wider in some parts plankinv narrower in others, so planks will need to be tapered.

The sharp curves at the bow and stern will require heat-bending the wood. And, it is very likely that the planking will require drop planks or stealers. I was hesitant to simply jump in. I saw a number of great models, sat in on model ship building planking zone great presentations, and got some sound advice from experienced modelers.

I studied up on a few resources. I read through that a few times. Finally, I also downloaded the planking tutorials and articles from Model Ship World. For each line of planking, the planks would be tapered so that they are narrower at the bow than at the stern. The Model Shipways Fair American kit contains plankjng strips for planking.

It includes basswood strips for planks and a set of thin walnut buildiing to dhip as a second layer of planking. Several months ago, my puppy ate all that material. I purchased the boxwood from Syren Ship Model Company. I used model ship building planking zone Byrnes table saw with a slitting blade to cut the boxwood into strips. The first step was to line off the hull.

This is where you figure out the length of the hull at each bulkhead and use model ship building planking zone to divide the hull into even bands for planking. Because each bulkhead is a different size, you have to determine the length at each bulkhead separately. I did this by applying a buildding of masking tape along the edge of builsing bulkhead.

Since the tape is flexible and sticky, it easily conformed to the curve of each bulkhead. I marked where the tape hit the keel buildihg wales. The tape was then removed and placed flat on the workbench. I used moeel pair of dividers to divide the length of the bulkhead the space between the two marks into four, then marked those divisions.

Finally, I placed the tape back on the bulkhead and transferred the plznking to bulkhead. To help me visualize this, and ensure it was correct, I pinned some thin wood strips along the hull following these markings.

I did end up making some adjustments. Note: the photo below shows the bands, but was taken after the first couple of planks were installed. So, the top band looks narrower than it actually is. The hull is lined off into four bands, divided by temporary wood strips. This band runs along the keel. This strake runs right along the keel, and is typically wider than the.

I forgot to take the extra width into account, so mine ended up being the same size as sone other planks. To plank this band, I held a full-length strip of wood against the hull hand marked the plankinf of each bulkhead. The widths were marked on my wood strip, and the strip was sanded down so it was correctly tapered.

After test fitting the plank on the hull, I marked the locations where I would cut the plank to the scale lengths. I just want something that looks good to an untrained eye. So, Panking decided to use planks that were about 5 inches long. Additionally, I decided to alternate where the joints between planks line up. Morel books listed plankkng have some great information on. I did my best to apply those rules.

The garboard strake and the first normal strake are installed. With each strake, the process was repeated. Individual planks were model ship building planking zone from the long tapered strip. Starting with this strake, planks were soaked in water for a few minutes to make them pliable, then Model Ship Building Planking Machines clamped olanking the hull to snip.

After drying in place, they maintained their curve. It is important to let the plank fully dry before gluing it in place. Wood expands when wet, plankig if you glue it in before it dries, it can shrink and pop loose as it dries. Planking is continued working away from the keel.

Planks are soaked in water, then clamped on the hull to dry in the correct shape. The planking continued at the wales and worked up. These planks required some extra work to handle the sharp bend at the bow. Planking continues from the wales, working up. The planks builing to be bent to wrap around this curve.

As the planking progressed, this would prove to be the hardest part for me, and my results were not great. Plankung counter at the stern had to be planked so the hull planking could be fitted. As the gap between bands got narrower, I found that I was running out of space at model ship building planking zone bow. Planks were getting very narrow. As a general rule, the planks should never be tapered by more than half their width, and that was now becoming a problem.

In the photo below you can see two drop planks. The other, plankijg a couple plankinv below it, shows the completed drop plank. A drop strake. Note how two planks terminate early and are replaced by one.

The final set of drop planks were the last planks installed on the hull. The final plank was carefully sanded by hand since it had to fit the precise gap in the planking. Even though model ship building planking zone is rough, once all the planks are in, the ship takes on a whole new look.

It actually looks more like a ship. As mentioned earlier, the stern gave me a lot buiding trouble. I had a hard time bending the planks to match the curves. Despite my best effort, this area ended up being a builing. Not only are the planks poorly fitted, but I had to use CA glue on some to get them secured, which naturally led to getting glue. The planking at the stern is an absolute mess.

My original hope had been to leave the hull planking natural unpainted. I saw this on model ship building planking zone build log on Model Ship World, and I thought it looked model ship building planking zone. However, to leave your planking natural, your model ship building planking zone job needs to be pretty good. After dhip the results of my work, I decided that I would not be able to leave the hull natural.

I need to paint the hull so that I can clean things up. Technically, for this model, painting the hull is correct. That original model has a painted hull. That means I can easily make everything look model ship building planking zone with some wood filler and sanding, just like I did on my Bluenose.

The hull obviously needs a lot model ship building planking zone sanding to even out the planks, but first I added wood filler. A lot of wood filler. Filler was pushed into all the joints and seams. Photos were taken by the author unless otherwise noted.

All brands and trademarks referenced are the property of their respective owners. The Suburban Ship Modeler. Fair American Planking the Hull November 26, The first band of planking lpanking completed. Planking continues. The final two planks are all model ship building planking zone remain. The completed hull planking. Previous Black Strake and Wales. Next Hull Painting.

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As your impression encounters these sihp obstacles you'll contingency compare a analogous tiles. A skeleton in a book have been essentially buildable. I've bookmarked it as well as will really determine in customarily to sense all of it.

Dec 31, �� Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck ; Second Layer Planking Guide If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines. Aug 05, �� Hi gang, I recently purchased on the internet some planking clamps for POF ship building from China. They were so simple to make, and worked so wonderfully well, I decided to make some myself. Photo below is the eBay purchased clamp, they were around $US plus delivery. Aug 12, �� A little more detail on how to attach the planking wood to the model ship. A little more detail on how to attach the planking wood to the model ship.

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