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57 Sailboat Line and Rigging ideas | sailboat, rigs, line May 26, �� Looking for some rough ballpark thoughts on the cost of new wire standing rigging for a Catalina I understand there are a thousand variables which can impact the price I was just wondering, for planning purposes, if this tends to be a $ job, a 5, or $ job. Nov 28, �� Wire rigging, generally, is the most common form of standing rigging found on sailboats today. 1 x 19 standard stainless steel specifically is the most common style of wire used. All of these types of wires can be found in both metric and imperial size ranges except for Dyform/ Compact Strand which is only available in metric sizing (at least. Jan 11, �� The rigging on these boats, however, is not to be neglected. As Brown explained of Roy Disney�s Santa Cruz 70 Pyewacket and her sisters, �those boats were well maintained and continually inspected. Losing a race as a result of mechanical failure was unusual.� Regardless of the age of a boat, annual inspection of standing rigging remains a.
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Practical Sailor s ideal snatch block will be rugged, serviceable, and made of high-grade materials that won't fail in demanding saltwater-sailing conditions. The snap shackle and opening mechanism should remain fast under extreme flogging, yet be easy and quick to open by hand. The ideal block will rotate and pivot freely so that it provides a fair lead at a wide range of angles.

A becket is a nice feature, particularly on a block meant for light-air sails, since a collapsing sail will likely let the block fall noisily to the deck if it is not supported from a lifeline by a light line or shock cord. Every element, bearings included, should be as maintenance-free as possible, and highly resistant to the sun and seawater.

We asked manufacturers to send us a pair of snatch blocks appropriate for the genoa sheets on a cruising boat in the to foot range. The blocks working loads ranged from 1, pounds Wichard to 5, pounds Schaefer. Sheave diameter ranged from 2 inches Antal and Wichard to slightly over 3 inches Garhauer. For historical perspective, we included a collection of similarly sized blocks dating back more than two decades. Not every snatch block manufacturer was represented in this test, but the selection offers a good cross-section of the blocks available today.

All but two of the blocks we tested had hinged cheeks that opened outward. The Antal and Garhauer cheeks rotated on swivel pins, so that they always remained parallel to the sheave. Antals aluminum snatch block got high marks as a functional design. Its rotating cheek plate offered side loading, and the latch mechanism was simple and straightforward.

The block is actually a synthetic rubber-coated aluminum cage block with a composite resin-and-fiber main bushing. Small ball bearings lie between the sheave sides and the cheekplates, but despite innovative design, the block was anything but friction free.

These results clearly indicated that the bearing system of the Antal snatch block is nowhere near as efficient as the free-spinning Harken and Garhauer products.

Several of the simple axle and bushing blocks also out-performed the product in the friction test. The Antal side-rotating snatch block gets good marks for design execution and operation, but it demonstrated poor performance in friction abatement and has a limited range of movement.

The friction-free spin of the Torlon ball bearing race enables these blocks to score as well in the tension test as the Harken blocks. Garhauers Ronstan trunnion-type snap shackle allowed for a wide universal pivot action. The ball bearing race is slightly exposed to sunlight, and it would make sense to stow these blocks below when theyre not in use.

The anodized alloy cheek plates and innovative, pressed-ring sleeve keep the bearings permanently captured, but in dusty, salty areas, a regular routine of fresh water washing will extend the life of the non-replaceable bearings. When attempting to insert a sheet under load into the open side of the Garhauer block, the configuration of the opening would not allow the line to feed straight into the block.

The sheet had to be bent slightly to conform to the blocks architecture. The Garhauer was the block most affected by the corrosion bath test, actually losing a small amount of aluminum at one of its pointed ends.

Although its not as easy to load as others in the test, the Garhauer was exceptionally friction-free, light, and priced right. Its our Budget Buy. This one-hand operated, bottom-opening snatch block, was one of the testers favorites.

Not only is it user-friendly, and the most efficient in our friction testing, but its rugged construction promises years of heavy-duty use. The investment-cast stainless steel body is a chunky piece of metal that adds some extra weight, but it also stabilizes the load handling and provides a secure point to attach the rugged trunnion-action snap shackle. Harkens snatch block design is fast and easy to latch as well as release.

It provided the most convenient means of capturing or releasing a sheet under load. The geometry of its snap shackle is such that when working with a loaded line, the snap shackle can be easily locked onto a padeye.

The thick rubber padding on the cheeks minimizes gelcoat chipping caused by light-air sheet slackening, and the roller bearing- supported sheave rotates on a central axle that smoothly latches to the articulating side cheek. Our only concern was the magnetic permeability of its sheave pin.

All other blocks had completely non-magnetic sheave axles. The Harken block was a top performer in testing, is quality constructed, and easy to use and maintain. It gets the nod for PS Best Choice. Elegantly simple, this hefty traditional snatch block would be a wise choice for those looking for ultimate reliability and do-it-yourself repairability.

When the latching operation starts to get sloppy, a new set of dowel-like rubber grommets can be installed to return it to just-like-new status.

We know our products. At Rigging Only we're sailors too. We have the experience and appreciation for the demands placed on gear and people for both offshore and coastal cruising. Larger sizes are available. Metric wire and swage fittings are available for standing rigging applications. We are able to provide swaged standing rigging assemblies as well as mechanical terminals assembled or you assemble to meet your needs at an affordable cost. Current stock is mm. Note the bulk of these fittings will have imperial pin and thread dimensions.

Return Policy No returns on cut length items, sales are final. Boxed goods must be returned with in 30 days of receipt. All items must be in their original packaging and are subject to inspection. Some manufacturers have re-stocking fees that you may be liable for.

Customer Comments We thank you and your staff for your help and advise. We are enjoying sailing more with the furler. The lifelines are almost too pretty to put on the boat and it's a damn pretty boat. The shrouds and backstay are superb and a perfect fit. If anyone ever wants a referral about Rigging Only tell them to contact me. Just a quick note to tell you how grateful I am.

The order was waiting for me when I arrived as promised. All the parts were of top quality and the prices were more than reasonable. If this lake is fresh water you are very likely in better shape than those on Saltwater. The three factors are: salt air and water content, how close you are to the equator sunlight , and also use. Use, encompasses the boat sitting at the dock. So fresh water and the rigging being removed and stored when the boat is not in use will generally offer the longest lifespan.

So inspect it more than regularly, and prepare yourself for the inevitable. The spreaders, though, just have a filed groove on the end for the shrouds to pass through and the small holes on either side with which to wire the shroud in place. How do you eliminate chafing and make sure the shrouds stay in place with synthetic rigging running over the end of the spreaders?

Cheers, Brandt. Find a piece of heavy rubber or vinyl or plastic tubing that the stay material fits through freely. Then file the slots open to accept said piece of rubber tubing or the like. Then, roll up a piece of sand paper to make the edges smooth and soften the aluminum slot. This should give you a fairlead and allow you to seize the synthetic stay to the spreader as you would with wire. The tubing should acting as a ferrule or buffer between metal slot and synthetic rope.

Good article but you never gave us an idea how much does rod last like you did with wire. Is there a guidance number of years and miles? This article should be updated. Synthetic rigging suppliers now say that it should be sized based on creep rather than breaking strength.

Synthetic rigging tends to be much more elastic than wire rigging. No doubt, this creep is a major factor in choosing the right stay material size. Carbon rigging perhaps being the exception, but I am curious for more information on this. We will indeed update this soon. For now our suppliers still size by tonnage. Thanks for caring and thanks for the comment. Most of these seemingly simple write ups require regular updates as the market and the knowledge associated is changing constantly.

I am going ocean sailing on a hallberg rassy 26 the rug needs replacing. Its all 6mm1x19 the back stay is 5mm I want to change to dyform the same size with stalok fittings to make it stronger. Your thoughts please. I am thinking of taking my hallberg rassy 26 on ocean passage and need ro renew the standing rigging she has 6mm all round and a 5 mm baxkstay I want stronger so am rhinking of using dyform same sizes with stalok fittings.

Any thoughts? Think about long cruising at 68 but want somebody to look at rigging before i go. Atlantic Yacht Basin got all my money and say dead batteries? They laugh they fixed alternator and recommend i come back.

Very good question�I would use a Loos and Co. It has nice, fair nylon rollers that will agree with the fiber stay materials. In my mast with rod uppers there is a clindrical device that holds the rod ends at each side. Can the rods be removed? And how is the clindrical device held to the mast? Hi Ernie, those seem exactly like the tangs we warn about in this blog�.. YES, you can remove them, but you may find that they are more than you bragined for.

HEAT is recommended. Informative article. I am looking at a boat now with carbon mast and boom with PBO rigging. What do you mean by that? I am assuming that you are not a fan of PBO rigging. Another super informative post thank you! If you fancy a holiday in NZ then my wire rigging needs replacing next year. Also the spinnaker halyard keeps jumping out of the sheave at the top of the mast requiring someone to go up every time to get it down.

As you can imagine this is getting quite tiresome! Anyway we will get the mast out next year to sort it. We do have a good rigging team here in Christchurch who can sort it.

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