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Sharpie A cruising sharpie with multiple roots. Jangada Jangadas are traditional mump boat on the north coast of Brazil, originally simple log rafts. Venezia Cabin Simple plywood sailboat plans jump the same basis, a motor launch with a shelter cabin. Katta Pocket cruiser catamaran - LOA 3. Katta Pocket cruiser catamaran - LOA 5.

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What class of yacht is the best one to get? The best class of yacht to get is the one that is sailed most often at your local club. The one you fell in love with. Footy - Developmental That photo isn't skewed, this boat is called a Footy and it's Sanctioned in Low cost, fun, easy to build class that puts to rest the theory that boats under 30" long don't sail well.

Visit Class Page. Its performance is all out of proportion to its small size. The class rules limit only the length of the hull 65 cm , the height of the rig cm and the sail area square centimeters mm long. Victoria - One Design Sanctioned in V32 - One Design Sanctioned in David Goebel's Visit Class Page. This development class is restricted in overall length and sail area. While these yachts are commercially available, their simplicity also makes them a good choice for beginning builders.

Fairwind One Design Class sanctioned in The Fairwind is built by One Manufacturer. This one design class allows no variations in hulls, spars, sails or replacement parts. Most T37s are built from the kit by the owners although the T37 is also available ready to sail. Ron Meicho built this T37 with its custom deck. One Meter - Developmental The U. One Meter is a small-sized development class yacht, with an appearance similar to the Marblehead yachts.

The U. One Meter is surprisingly fast and seaworthy for its size. International One Meter - Developmental Sanctioned in The International One Metre is the fastest growing class in the world.

The rules in this class are identical to those used throughout the globe. The class has a one-design rig and weight minimums, but the hull design is very much developmental. One meter long, with a sail area as large as a Marblehead.

Four sheets 4mm plywood. More about the Viola 14 Sailing Canoe Plan here. The user feels the stability, the water thinks it is a low drag pintail. We created a board that hits the numbers for a good canoe or rowboat. Less wetted surface with a stable midsection and excellent weight carrying. Rows and Motors and will sail rings around other character boats.

Quick DIY wooden canoe that works better than most flat-bottomed canoes and many fibreglass ones. Half the weight of many fibreglass canoes. Lighter than most plastic. It has been designed to be as easy to build as possible while keeping most of the qualities of a nice paddling wooden canoe. In particular the ability to track � excellent first boat plan. Click here for a comparison between our fast and our classic paddling canoe plans.

More Information about the plywood Quick Canoe Plan. Light on the land, Prettiest Plywood or wooden Canoes anywhere. Click here for a comparison between our paddling canoe plans. Click here for more information about the Eureka Plywood Canoe. DIY plywood canoe for fishing and roof racking.

Click here for more information about the Plywood Quick Canoe Electric. Cruising or teaching with three adults or excellent club racing performance sailing with 1 or 2 in the boat. The famous line is we can build 10 of these in the Philippines for the price of importing a single Laser sailboat.

Boat speeds are very matched for excellent tactical racing when not heading off for a family picnic with two adults and a bunch of kids aboard.

For training, the goose will carry an instructor and two adults to sail with good sensitivity and speed. In stronger winds, we commonly see downwind speeds of 10 to 13knots and sometimes much more. Yawl Rig with speed � a wooden canoe that can scare the Lasers at your local club. A small boat for amateur boat building that is light enough for one person to roofrack 70lbs plywood canoe hull. Sailing Canoe boat plan. Create a paddle or sailing outrigger canoe from a fibreglass or wooden Canoe or Kayak.

Convert your old canoe into an awesome sailing machine or fishing or diving platform. It is not surprising at all that you are getting complaints from a neighbor due to the bothersome low frequency noises and vibration energy that can physically shake the structure.

Making the necessary changes to the structure would be very involved and quite likely, very expensive. Do we need to worry about more echoing in the auditorium taking down the paneling? This is, of course, dependent on the wood, if there are any gaps, cracks and especially if there is an air space behind it.

I have built a gym in one of the rooms in my flat, and my problem is that when i punch the boxing speedball, my neighbourg at the flat underneath me can actually hear it.

Now when installing a speedball bracket to the wall, the screws hang within the brick wall. So my question is, what would be the best way to stop them from hearing the noise coming from the speedball hitting the platform, and after that, what would be the best way of stopping the vibrations traveling down the wall?

Using which materials for what? If the vibration and impact energy is being transmitted into the wall and being carried down through the structure as a vibration, you are likely going to need to move the equipment. There are not any kind of isolators that I know of that would allow direct wall mounting that would reduce enough energy from the impact to make a difference downstairs.

This could very well be a very site-specific problem that will need to take into account quite a few things. Because I am not there to have a look, there is only so much I can do to help. The first thing that comes to mind would be to build some kind of wooden, free-standing structure and put the entire contraption onto a rubber isolator or series of spring isolators. This would allow the structure to move independent of the structure and the vibration and impact energy would have a more difficult time getting to the structure.

I am doing a science project on blocking not absorbing sounds. I have a guitar amplifier that will be plugged into a computer to produce a sound. Do you have any suggestions of how i can cover the amplifier from all sides in the different materials i want to use and maybe some suggestions of cheap materials that are easy to apply.

And im not sure if the sound comes out all sides of the amp. The first thing is that your barrier has to be air tight. I would first build a box out of plywood, put it straight over the amp, and turn it on.

Take three measurements with this setup and average those. Then I would add some weather stripping to the bottom of the box and repeat the test three times.

Make sure you keep your cuts straight and seal all of the seams. Build this second box so that is leaves inches of air in between the plywood and sheetrock box. Unfortunately the sound from it reverberates across the courtyard and is quite noticeable in my apartment. Alas, out of this pipe, along with a powerful stream of air came a very powerful high frequency whine.

I considered this good news, because the source of this noise is isolated and relatively small in size � a inch diameter, downward pointing outlet pipe made of pvc.

Because the source is isolated in this way, it seems to me it should be fairly straightforward to build an aparatus to dampen the sound. So much so that I doubt I would be able to hear it from my apartment. In lieu of hiring someone to stand there with their hands cupped a few inches under a pvc pipe, this leads me to my main question � Do you have any suggestions on what would be an effective apparatus for dampening this sound?

It should be resistant to the elements. It should be fairly simple and fairly inexpensive. This is just an idea, though� I was hoping I could get some advice from someone that has experience in the area of sound reduction. Is there any chance you could take and share a photograph of this, please? A picture of the situation would be a great help to me. I do, however, have two ideas.

Even building a box out of plywood and filling it with sand would likely reduce the amount of sound reflecting off of the ground and filling the court yard. The other idea would be to use an exterior grade plywood and build a three-sided, free-standing structure around the pipe.

I would probably start by building it using three walls with the potential to add a roof section later, if needed. This structure could be built around the exhaust so that the sound and air that escape are contained by the structure. Here are a few images I quickly threw together to illustrate the idea: It was a lot faster for me to make this pipe using flat-surfaces rather than a rounded pipe.

I recently had a sprinkler system installed with a water pump. The water pump is so loud that it is waking us up when it starts up at 3 am. What sound proofing or sound absorbing material should I use.

The pump is located outside. This enclosure can be built with commonly and regionally sourced building materials, like plywood. I have even seen enclosures where the cement-board like that used for bathtub surrounds is used to line the inside of the walls simply to make them heavier.

If you build something like this and you still have a problem, I would be happy to help you find something that we could supply that would reduce the sound further. What very interesting and informative information.

I would like advice on further sound insulation in my ground floor flat. I have had a suspended and isolated ceiling installed with material laid in the space between old ceiling and new one.

This has sorted noise from tv, talking, music and has had a significant effect on heat retention. However impact noise, footfall is still a problem. The flat is rented out and as I have a good relationship with the owners I am wondering what could be done from upstairs, whether it would be necessary to lift existing floor and insulate between joists or if just putting some sort of underlay down would work.

I have access to the stairs in an outside cupboard, would it be worth removing the plasterboard and filling the spaces between the treads, if so with what? Many thanks, Hermione. This is a rubber-based underlayment that would need to go down onto the floor upstairs and then covered with a finish floor. This would help soften the footfall before that energy got into the structure.

Hey, I have a unique problem. Our office has a very quiet area. There is a large multifunction printer that was recently installed in the quiet area. People are annoyed and we want to reduce the noise levels in that area. The printer is enclosed by walls on two sides behind and right but is open in the front obviously and on the left.

Short of putting a smaller printer in that area is there something that i can stick to the walls to reduce the noise. I can install another wall on the left but have to leave the front open for people to walk in grab their print jobs. The space is not big enough to put the unit in a enclosure. Sound blocking will probably direct all the sound to come out from the front side which is open and sound absorption will only absorb echoes Is there another solution in this case?

There are a few ways to treat something like this. I would probably start by putting a panel or series of panels onto the walls around and behind the machine. You can often get a decent amount of reduction simply by removing the reflective surfaces behind the noise source.

This is also the least costly and least intrusive first step. If you happen to have a few photos of the space, it may help me and others visualize the problem. Love the info on this site. I have a great room with high ceilings, lots of windows with no curtains, granite counters, and tile floors.

It echos a lot. Would it help if I put sound absorbing foam of some sort on top of the kitchen cabinets near the ceiling that would be out of sight? There is nowhere to put panels on the walls or the ceiling. What would you recommend?

I have had a few people put product on the top, unseen side of kitchen cabinetry and it will absolutely absorb some of the sound in the room. Unfortunately, these areas are usually relatively large rooms which require more square footage of panels than will fit on the tops of the cabinets.

In order to absorb sound, you need to cover a reflective surface with an absorptive surface. Ted, We are upgrading our older home built in the fifties. We have a narrow hallway with three bedrooms and one bathroom door coming off the hallway. I recently replaced the hallow doors with solid doors to help cut down on the sound between rooms.

He then filled the gap with foam all the way around. I could swear the noise problem is worse instead of better with the solid doors! What can we do? My contractor says if he pulls out the new doors and closes the rough opening down to a quarter inch with wood, the sound problem will be the same. He says the foam is a better buffer than wood. Any ideas?

Your question about the installation of the door is a good one. As I have mentioned in this article, as well as quite a few other comments, sound always uses the path of least resistance first � a lot like water. If you can fill one of these rooms with water, how is that water going to get from the room into the hallway?

This is also where the sound will get out. Hi Thanks for the great info and clear explanations. Very generous of an expert like you to help us beginners. I wonder if you could give me some advice before i waste my money on the wrong solution. Would it be fire proof enough for that purpose, and have the correct sound proofing properties. Thanks heaps for any advice you can give, Mark.

Basically, when you create an enclosure, there are a few basic ideas to keep in mind. The walls of your enclosure need to have a decent amount of mass and density � they need to be heavy. The heavier something is, the more sound it will block. Whether you use MDF board, sheetrock, plywood, cement � the heavier the better.

I would absolutely line the inside of the enclosure with some kind of soft, reflective surfaces as well so that you do not create an echo chamber for the noisy machine. I live in a historical read old interior row house where the walls are all brick, block and plaster. We want to be sure that we can have them install a good solution. They all want to build out the wall 11 x 11 and add soundproof sheetrock.

What else do you recommend? We have two outlets, should they be wrapped in rubber? Thanks, Mark. I am happy to offer some suggestions, but because I am not there to look at the wall and experience the situation, I am going to have to make some assumptions that may or may not be correct.

So, if anything comes to mind based on my reply below, please feel free to let me know any additional information or details about the wall. Typically speaking, brick and block do a pretty good job Simple Plywood Sailboat Plans Mod at blocking sound.

All good things when it comes to soundproofing. I would use a non-hardening acoustical sealant for those locations. A good rule of thumb is that if you think you might need sealant, you need sealant. I would absolutely fill the stud cavities with a standard insulation, like fiberglass or cotton.

All outlets in that wall should be backed with a putty pad. Blocking yet more sound, you could add the RSIC-1 clips to the face of the studs, then add the sheetrock. Again, two layers would block more sound than one. In my opinion, this is an extremely effective assembly, but may be overkill for your situation. I want to start a weekly or monthly gathering known as Penthouse sessions.

I am a DJ and will be playing music from relatively loud speakers. I live in a penthouse that is about 2, square feet.

Sound is very good within the rooms and never get complaints. I only have one neighbor to worry about. The ones across the hall wont hear a thing.

That being said, what do you recommend to the one neighbor that is next to me rather than across the hall. Without anything I get pretty loud and nothing happens. But I would have for the social to get disrupted with a complaint. Great questions! I would like to begin by mentioning that the potential situation that you are presenting is going to be an uphill battle.

In order to approach a situation like this properly, it will require a fair amount of construction and modification to the wall and possibly the floors and ceilings as well.

There is a direct relationship to the type of noise frequency and the ease in which the frequency gets through whatever you put in front of it. The lower the frequency bass , the easier the sound gets through the barrier. Low, bass frequencies almost always introduce a physical vibration into the walls, ceilings, and floor.

In complete honesty, it is going to be more cost effective for you to send your neighbor to a nice hotel once a month getting them out of the building while your social gatherings are taking place than it will be to undertake the project to try and block the sound from bothering them.

I understand that you are not likely looking for complete silence on the other side of the wall � you are likely just looking to start to reduce the problem. I completely understand, I have approached this question a few hundred times in my ten years in the industry. So, on to answering your question. The steps necessary to start to reduce the problem would be as follows:. This is not the only way to approach the situation � there are similar options out there that could likely offer some reduction � but no option will be as easy as putting up a few foam panels and Plywood Cruising Sailboat Plans Jump calling it good.

Another option is to start with a small gathering and increase both the size of the gathering and the volume until you get a complaint. Then scale back slightly. Or just invite all of your neighbors over.

I am not intentionally trying to take the wind out of your sails, but it is important for you to understand the nature of the problem and the potential extremity of the undertaking to offer some benefit for this type of acoustical situation. Please let me know if you have any more questions or if you would like to discuss the situation some more.

I recently moved into a condo renting and in my bedroom I share a common wall with some very chatty neighbors. I need some cheap alternatives or suggestions as to what I could do besides my grand idea of using Heavy foam or work out mats to create a foot thick artificial wall to try to drown them out.

Unfortunately the right answer to your question is not the one you are looking for. Blocking sound is something that is done in the assembly of the wall � not something that you can easily and cheaply put onto the wall.

Foam will not block ANY sound. Foam, panels, and the like will not reduce any of the sound and could potentially make the problem more noticeable to your ear because the point of a wall panel is to reduce the echo and ambient sound in the room in which it is installed. You can read my explanation of sound blocking vs sound absorbing to better understand why this [�].

I am very appreciate of your blog on acoustics. The home is made of bricks and plastered on the inside. The roof is metal. Because we live in a tropical country we do not need insulation like we do in the states. Our second floor has metal trusses, with wood trim to secure the waterproof flooring.

Our inside walls are made from eco-board recycled tetrapack containers that are 10mm thick. We need to keep insulate ourselves from the heat of a metal roof 2. We want to minimize the sound that comes in and out of the master bedroom. Our master bedroom is adjacent to our tv room.

We do not have access to sound proofing materials where we live, but we do have styrofoam and fiberglass insulation. Will these materials help? Our ceilings are also made from the 10mm tetraboard like the walls.

The wall between the Master bedroom and tv room only goes up to the ceiling, but does not continue up in to the crawl space. We are using a PVC material that looks like a hardwood floor beautiful stuff that is glued onto the waterproof plywood.

Hello and thanks for the questions. This is a bit of a new situation for me to approach and I may or may not be able to help. The thermal issues and the sound blocking issue are going to need to be considered as two completely different situations. Heavier is better.

Things that do a good job at thermal insulation do not block sound � and generally speaking, things that do a decent job at blocking sound are not used for thermal insulation. Thermal protection is done with things that are soft, light, and fluffy � like standard wall insulation.

These types of products are mostly air, which is why they offer the thermal protection they are used for. Considering they are mostly air, and sound travels through air � sound goes right through insulation. If there is an air space that connects the two rooms, that is the easiest path of least resistance for the sound to get from one room to the next. The air space under and around the door can be a significant area that the sound uses to get out of the room.

If the sound is, in fact, going through the wall, the best way to proceed is to use the heaviest building material that you have access to and simply make the wall separating the two rooms heavier. I would suggest, however, to throw out all of the assumptions you have about sound and how it works and listen VERY critically to the problem before buying anything. Find the weakest link in the room and start there.

Thanks for your great acoustic and sound articles! They are very informative and I enjoy reading them. Currently, I am assigned to reduce the echo in a multipurpose hall. Hall dimension is ft. It echoes like crazy and a nightmare for any soundman. By the way, it is a concrete floor. Due to budget constraint, my plan is to use used egg trays egg cartons not the egg crate foam to cover 3 sides of the wall in hope that the conical shape of egg trays may deflect the sound wave thus reducing the echo.

I am not sure whether this will work though. Can you give any opinion on this method? Thank you so much. Thanks so much, I am glad to hear you enjoy my articles.

They are probably formed to the shape of the egg and made out of a hard, stable material. Think of it this way� take a bunch of your trays and put them on the wall.

Stand a few feet away and throw a ping-pong or rubber ball at them. The ball will bounce off the tray with quite a bit of energy. Probably the same amount of energy it would if it were bouncing off the drywall. Now, instead of your trays, put a sleeping bag or some other soft blanket on the wall instead.

The soft, light, fluffy nature of the fabric-like material will absorb the energy of the ball. The same works with acoustics. So, I would strongly suggest exploring some type of cost-effective acoustical panel. Check out this article that discusses acoustics in multipurpose rooms. It goes over a little more on the hows and whys as well as having a testimonial at the end. Hi Ted, To begin with thanks for this webpage.

My problem is with the kitchen, there is no sound absorption in it. It is 17 x 15 with 9ft ceilings, painted wood floors and one wall is nothing but wooden doors, leading to the upstairs, downstairs, a bathroom and a pantry. There are also 2 doors on one wall and one on another.

There are also 4 windows in the room. This leaves very little wall space. The room echoes with all the conversations when having more than 4 people speaking. I would like to stay away from ceiling tiles made for this purpose. My question is how many wall panels would be needed and how big do they have to be to help with the sound absorption.

I found information on how to make them. I am just not sure if i have enough wall space to place the adequate amount of panels to fix the problem. My husband would like to ad beams to ceiling in hopes that those would help. I have enough wall space for possibly 5 � 30x20inch panels. Would this be enough? I would like to make them look more like art pieces than the standard panels. Please help! Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks, Mary. Mary, Thanks for the comment. As I have mentioned before, treating residential spaces can be extremely challenging because in order to absorb the sound, you HAVE to cover up some of the reflective surfaces with an absorptive surface. Which, of course, means changing the way the room looks. I wish I did! Considering the cubic volume of the room and the surfaces that make up the space, I would suggest starting with forty-five or fifty square feet of panels.

The panels mentioned above would cover approximately twenty-one square feet of this, so about half. There is no way that twenty-one square feet would make the problem worse, but it may or may not introduce a noticeable reduction to the room. It literally sounds like its coming from my unit. Is their anything I can do to minimize this?

Preferably something that can be removed later. There is a product that I can suggest for this, but I must state that blocking sound is something that needs to be done fairly specifically to be done at all. This basically means that you could potentially get a product on the floor of their laundry room and still have a problem.

Sound travels via the path of least resistance, so if there is an easier path for the sound to use than coming straight through the floor like a duct, pipe chase, etc you may or may not get enough reduction to notice a difference. I would start with a layer of Quiet Floor NP , which is a rubber-based roll of recycled car tires. If you would like a sample or quote for a sheet or two, feel free to let me know. Thanks, Ted. Dear Ted thank you so much for very valuable info!

There are a lot of people who will apprecciate an answer on my question. The problem is for frontloaders washers that they vibrate more than top loaders. What should I place on the floor under machine to reduce vibration to my neighbor downstairs?

Should I place an absorptive material on the walls? I will paitiently wait for your response before buying machine. Sincerely, [email protected]. There are a few different ways to approach a situation like this. In order to get you a more concrete answer to your question, I am going to need to get an idea of the overall weight of the machine s at their heaviest.

The easiest and lowest-performing approach would be to put a layer of Acoustik on the floor directly below the machines. I have also had previous customers install simple spring isolators under a piece of plywood to essentially make a new, floating floor.

I am trying to sound abate my Honda civic before installing an after market audio system. With which materials should I treat the doors, especially the two front that have the speakers?

As you might know, there are two layers of metal and holes in the inner sheet metal. I have planned to use dynamat and a MLV. Is there a critical role for foam, especially in order to maximize the dynamic range of the mid-woofer speakers in the two front doors? I had to defer to my co-worker, Mike, on this one as he is a much better resource for a situation like this.

Mike owned a very high end car audio company for quite a few years. This is what he has to say:. I would recommend using our VMAX product on all your door skins, covering the entire area behind the door panel. You will want to cover all the open holes in the door kin so that you separate the front of the speaker from the rear of the speaker as best as possible.

You will simply use a razor blade to cut small openings for wires, latches, etc. This sealed design will allow for a better low frequency response from your speakers and a louder response with less distortion.

The VMAX material will reduce all the vibrations in the metal door structure and create the separation needed. To enhance and control the back wave of the speaker, you can glue a small piece of our Sound Silencer to the inner door skin directly behind the speaker, if space is allowed.

Using typical foam in the door cavity will create problems due to water and moisture that will enter your door cavity. The Sound Silencer will not be affected by these conditions. Hello Ted, Great job simplifying this stuff. Imagine a portable generator or an irrigation pump running. It makes quite some noise. Is there any sort of material it could sit on and be less noisy? And by how much would the noise drop.

Please, keep in mind mobility and portability. It would likely reduce the sound that is coming out of the bottom of the machine, bouncing off a hard surface and up toward your ear � but it would not be introducing a direct line-of-sight noise barrier that would offer the most reduction. I am just about to start building a new Chicken Coop. I guess I would need to be concentrating on sound blocking to prevent the sound reaching the neighbours.

The coop will only be 4ft by 6ft so only a small space. What materials would you suggest? Another key challenge is ventilation. Thanks if you can help. Unfortunately I am not sure how to suggest you proceed. You will need to build some kind of room or enclosure around the coop and build a baffled duct system to push and exhaust air into and out of the enclosure. Hi ted. I am a music educator and I liked your illustrations as to how to block Simple Plywood Sailboat Plans You or absorb sound.

I am currently looking to equip my basement with material for sound blocking purposes. My goal is to have enough material so I can totally seal the room and not let the sound out since a rock band will be using the basement for rehearsals.

In my mind, I thought that covering all the walls and ceiling with foam would do the job. How true is that? Without a doubt, if you have a band practicing in your basement, you will hear and probably feel the bass upstairs. Foam will not reduce the sound that makes its way to the rest of the house.

There is not a cheap, easy, effective way to block the sound of a band from getting upstairs. It is approx. The idea is that people praying in the room could raise their voice or play worship music maintaining privacy and not disrupting anyone outside. But now that I read your article I am confused. Thank you! Rather than re-writing the article, do you have any specific questions I could answer for you? Panels that absorb sound within a room do not block sound, and typically, vice versa.

If you were to pour water onto a sponge, it would go right through it. Sound barriers are essentially the opposite � hard, air-tight, dense and heavy. If you fixed that fish tank with new glass, the water would not pass through it.

Absorbing sound and blocking sound are two very different ways to approach acoustics. Let me know what specific questions you have so that I can address them specifically to hopefully add some clarity for you. I am looking to add sound proofing materials to the conference room in my office building. Our conference room echoes so badly that we need to do something. I was looking at the foam that looks like egg cartons? The ceiling is covered in pipes, so we were thinking that we could hang something from them just to put up some obstacles to get in the way.

Thanks for the questions. If you could send me the dimensions of the room as well as a digital picture or two, I would be happy to do what I can to help. There are methods of attachment that would allow you to get a few of our panels in place without using glue OR nails � they could be removed as if they were never there � so have hope!

And, I would be happy to help. All I need is a rough idea of the dimensions of the room height, width, and depth and a few digital pictures. This would allow me to build a quick digital acoustical model of the space and estimate the number of panels or square footage needed to take the edge off.

If you send me a message with your name and address I could get a few different types of panels into your hands for review. Downstairs townhome with window to loud carport parties, and indoor upstairs stomping loose floors, kitchen cookn and loud relatives.

I could throw a few things out there, but they would be simply assumptions. Acoustical treatment can only reduce things to a point � engineering and physics also need to be considered. Thanks for a clear explanation. My question. If I build my own hifi rack I want to absorb vibrational sound and environmental energy. What materials are best at that? Bearing in mind that it has to carry load, sometimes of many kilos. I ask because one can find many materials used including wood, glass, metals, slate, carbon fibre, composites etc, either on their own or in combinations with each other constrained layer damping.

I am a bit confused by all of this. Your thoughts would be very welcome. I am not quite sure what you are asking, sorry. I am making an assumption that you want to stop vibration transfer from one surface to another. That is not done with acoustical panels � that is something that you accomplish with a vibration isolator.

A step down from that is a proper load-rated rubber isolator. Am I looking to absorb sound then? I am going to assume that you are looking for absorption through out the room. It is important, however, to understand that by placing panels on the walls and ceilings of a room, the result is going to be a reduction ion the sound pressure in the room and a reduction in the reflections that a listener would hear from reflecting from the surfaces.

If two people are talking loudly, the sound from their mouth still goes straight to their ear � THAT path of sound transmission is not affected at all. It may sound a BIT quieter because your ear will not be picking up reflections from the surfaces around them, but the only way to make people sound like they are talking softly is to ask them to talk softly.

Thank you for the information in your post. I would like to reduce the noise going to my housemates rooms that my small parrot makes. He has a high pitched squawk.

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