Diy Canoe Building Plans Meaning

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I'm sure this has been discussed numerous times, but I need to know tools i HAVE to have before I start my first ship. Is a plank bender a necessity?

I don't mind buying a toold tool. Hull clamps, pin vice, razor saw, mini vise are other tools that I'm not sure if absolutely needed or not for a novice level ship like I'm going to undertake.

I know that some of you who have built many ships have quite a collection of tools, paints, air guns, mills and so forth. Let me know what essential tools you know I'll need and I can pick them up before the ship kit arrives. Hiya Poochie. Welcome to ModelShipWorld. This a question which gets asked a lot. A lot of us do manage to tools needed for model ship building quote a vast array of tools over the course of a few kits.

I know I. If you are just starting out, the only essential tools IMO would be: some Exacto knives 11 blade would be most commonsandpaper various gradesfr good PVA glue white gluetools needed for model ship building quote ruler, a pencil and some paint-brushes.

These should be enough to toosl you started, especially if your build is, as you say, a Beginner's kit. You will quickly work out if you need tools needed for model ship building quote. For additional items, most of the time you will get by with things found around your home: Clothes pegs, bull-dog clips, Lego pieces Yes, that's right.

They make excellent tools for checking right anglesetc. But that time will come Midwest has a list of tools needed to build the kit in the instructions for their Lobster Smack.

There are additional or replacement tools that will make it easier to build but the minimum are listed right in the instructions. Poochiie, have a look in the sites database of articles for a good article on this subject and many others that can assist you. Thanks for all the info. I already have the basic tools since I used to do woodworking. I also see that this hobby, like woodworking, has the potential to let you spend lots of money if you want to.

That's what I like to. I'll probably pick up a razor saw and a pin vice. The model will let me know other things I need. I appreciate it! Poochie I built my first two models without a plank bender. I used a household clothes iron to bend the planks. I bought a plank bender before my current build, but I still prefer using the clothes iron.

The plank bender is better for precise curves, but the clothes iron is much faster. Usually when using a bending iron I found it morel best to have the planks saturated. Applying the iron to them vaporises the water and dries the wood out, which allows for good heat transfer to the cell walls of the wood making it 'rubbery'. If it dries out too much I usually apply some more water.

If I don't do tolos it is very easy to get scorch marks on the dry wood from the iron. Everyone has their own methods of doing it, there are some good plank bending guides in the MSW wiki. No steam. Soak the wood in water I use my bathtub - no need for fancy wooden cylinders for a minimum of 1 hour more if the wood is thicker than 1mmthen apply the iron.

A couple pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe in different lengths and an end cap on each works well to soak wood and saves water and abuse from the admiral if using the bath tub or anything else in the bathroom or kitchen.

Thanks. You guys are giving me some valuable info. And Silkjc, we the US have several knock off brands of a dremel tool. WEN is one of 'em.

So tools needed for model ship building quote the planks, apply heat, and bend. Got it. I'm sure I'll have to mess a couple of dozen up to get the hang of it.

But that's cool. I'll ask about painting on buildihg new thread. Basically brush vs airgun. The eBay dude mailed the ship kits out today with tracking numbers.

I should get them Tuesday the 17th. It may not be as powerful or flexible as my Dremel But I find that I reach for this tool 1st because it is so handy and easy to use.

But, it only has one speed. It is, IMHO, worthless. Not enough power to be useful for much of. Look for a sale on the Dremel knock off of your choice or go on eBay and look for a good deal on a used one. Your selection of tools is always a choice tools needed for model ship building quote quality and price.

If you will be using a tool a lot, then go for the quality. As you progress with this great hobby, you will accumulate more tools, as the need arises. I have given away or sold tools that did not measure up to my needs or wants and gotten better quality. The Harbor Freight rotary tool shown above is a good example.

It is shio powered but is useful for drilling very small holes. I sold mine; Dremel is the tool of choice for me. When buying used rotary tools, the 2 most important items to check are quore collet runout and the bearings. I wouldn't necessarily call it worthless. Like I said for something that needs more "soup" I use my Dremel But for something to knock off an edge tools needed for model ship building quote keep going it works without digging out my Dremel.

I posted in another thread the aussie version of that under powered drill dremel thingo. I tools needed for model ship building quote it as my dedicated treenailing drill and it is by no means worthless. It saves me 2 minutes changing collets frequently!

It does have a fair bit of vibration though so to get crisp holes you need to use a short drill. I don't see you mention files. You need both a set of medium sized files, single cut not double cut. You can get these for not much at any hardware store. The other is a set of needle files. If budget is a factor, just get standard hobby store needle files, also pretty much any online hobby store carry.

Actually that's an important question - are you trying to go with the cheapest options available, or do you want to buy good quality basic tools that will last? I definitely recommend the latter, mostly buildijg in my opinion the cheapest tools generally work so poorly that they cause lots of frustration, the kind of frustration that makes people give up.

Good tools used correctly make toole they're supposed to neered easy and efficient. If you're willing to spend some money, you'll get an order of magnitude better performance by tools needed for model ship building quote real jeweler's needle files. On the other hand, some good tools aren't expensive - I use a ring holder tools needed for model ship building quote for holding small parts. If you haven't noticed a trend, most of the hand tools Byilding have now are professional jeweler's tools from Otto Frei or Contenti.

They work so much better than hardware store tools that they make previously difficult jobs very easy. You can post now and register later.

If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right nfeded you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The pages of shiip Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.

The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. Tools needed. Reply to this topic Start new topic.

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To the right of the sanding block is a bulk pack of replacement blades for the hobby knife below and to the right of it. A hobby knife is probably the single most used tool in model ship building, and a good supply of spare blades should be kept on hand, and changed often, so you are always using a sharp one.

Next to the hobby knife is a razor saw. Not absolutely necessary, but definitely worth the price. The blades are replaceable.

A small Japanese carpentry saw will fill in for this tool, but be much more expensive. At right is a pin vise and a collection of micro-size drill bits. The pin vise holds the drill bits for drilling tiny holes, a common task in ship model building. Bottom left is a pair of bent-nose locking tweezers. These come in handy for holding small parts when painting or applying them to your model.

The locking sort prevent a brief relaxation of your hand sending a tiny part down to the floor, where it may never be found. There is a reason even X-Acto knives are called "hobby knives" instead of "surgical scalpels. For light, delicate, work, a surgical scalpel and blades will do a better job and probably at a lower price point.

Buy the professional grade tool whenever possible. You will see selections of Asian pliers sold in the hobby catalogs. For very little more money, you can buy pliers made for orthodontists in dental catalogs of much higher quality.

It's a matter of personal preference. Myself, a standard table and chair often puts the work a bit too high and definitely so when working on rigging that may be a foot or more above the table top.

I generally work on a bench and sit on a drafting stool which has an adjustable seat and footrest so I can raise myself to whatever height is most comfortable and can easily hop on and off to get things from the shop as needed.

These are a pretty common Craigslist or garage sale item available at low cost. Workspace is also a matter of personal preference and availability. Some find card tables enough. I built my first wooden ship model on our desk in a one bedroom apartment when my wife and I were in graduate school.

I prefer a stable bench, particularly because you really can't mount even a small jeweler's vise on a card table and expect to get much done without it jiggling around. These days, I enjoy the luxury of a fully equipped workshop in an outbuilding that houses the spoils of a lifetime of used tool collecting. Cleek's Law: "Tools expand to fill the space allotted. My wife calls it an addiction. I have a separate "surgically clean" room for my drafting table, plans storage, modeling library and a couple of "clean" benches, one a very sturdy metal machinists bench for working on rigging and small bits.

I also work on full-sized classic wooden boats. This is where I do anything dusty, greasy, or otherwise messy, like airbrushing and spray painting. Between that and the kitchen table, desk or card table upon which most of us started out lies the spectrum of what somebody would "need" and somebody would "want" for building models.

What I have at my disposal is admittedly luxuriously excessive. It's well beyond what's required to build the finest ship models, but, then again, at this point I can mill my own wood and build my own display cases and it costs me next to nothing.

Other people's discarded furniture is sometimes a great source of modeling hardwood! I must be the first to admit that it's very easy to wake up one morning and realize you have more tools than skills to get the most out of them. Joking about "the Admiral" aside, one does have to consider the others we live with. It's a royal pain to have to "set up" and "take down" your modeling workspace each time you want to work on your model and others often complain about paint fumes and sawdust in "their space.

If one can find so much as a government surplus metal office desk to keep in a space they can call their own, so much the better. Again here, your mileage may vary. The famous naval architect, L. Francis Herreshoff, who never married and lived alone all his life, enjoyed the luxury of keeping his metal lathe in the dining room of his home.

We should all be so lucky! As for lighting, the more the better. I have a collection garage sales again of articulated drafting lamps "Luxo lamps" and fluorescent ring tube articulated magnifying lamps that clamp on bench tops. These provide strong light directly on the working area and can be moved around to direct the light right where you want it.

Some prefer various magnifying lenses worn like eyeglasses. Others, as myself, prefer to work beneath an articulated magnifying fluorescent lamp or use the traditional jeweler's swing-down magnifying lens that clips to the temple of our eyeglasses for fine work.

I appreciate everyone's advice and comments, thank you all for taking time out of your day to post a reply. After reading the advice from Chris quoted at the top of this post it suddenly struck me; what's the hurry? I realized I was getting ahead of myself with some of these inquiries. And if I'm not careful I'll get ahead of myself with the build. Time to slow down. I think it best to purchase tools as I need them and, as others here have advised, buy quality tools.

After all, "haste makes waste". And if it takes a few days to obtain a needed tool it will make little difference in the overall time of the build. How ever I will ask about the brands of quality tools for this work.

Sometimes the specialist hobby suppliers are not looking at quality but keeping the price down and the tools reflect - "you gets whats yous pays for". Not sure where you live but also try to buy local as shipping costs are getting to the point it costs more than the tools. Again, ask as the need arises. In my experience, there is no universal "best brand", although there are some brands that cover a wide variety of equipment.

If you ask about miniature table saws, you will get 2 or 3 or 4 answers. Ask about thickness sanders you will get alot as well, although not necessarily the same companies. I might add if your pockets have run aground and your temporally stranded in the shallows there are a lot of comparable tools that run the gambit of pricing.

Since I stay stranded in the shallows I spend a lot of time at Harbor Freight for saws, sanders, scroll saws etc. E-bay and garage sales, amazon, craigslist, and have a nice collection of cheap but adequate tools.

One day someone will espy my upside down flag and render assistance and my pockets will get deeper. Even though I recently downsized and got rid of all the big tools, I've found the basic hand tools I did keep, are a good start for building. I've also managed to pick up some useful tools quite cheaply from a veterinary supply house that listed on eBay.

Such things as hemostats, tweezers pliers and scissors. Still waiting a chance to get the plans copied before I get started on the first build. The fallout from the downsizing is still happening. LED lights are performing at the top. While we are on the cheap Ad 1 - Sounds like a strange question to ask on a forum like this, but it can be crucial.

Of course, as your experience grows, you may want to move onto more demanding subjects. If you are mainly interested in the 'craft', you may want to look for objects that can be tackled with less tools and that require less space etc.

Ad 2 - patience is one of the most important tools in our trade, it can compensate for a lot of other tools. Our ancestors had a lot less tools and still were able to turn out superbe models, it just may take a little longer to do and a little longer to acquire the dexterity with the tools required. Don't splurge out until you have decided whether you even enjoy the hobby unless you have seriously deep pockets.

My first kits a Caldercraft Snake then a Caldercraft Diana - with the second not being a small kit were built in a tiny outhouse on a 4 ft wide dressing table that just fit in the space.

I then built the triton cross section you can sign up here! This was pushing space in a bad way now but after an extension and a new 'executive log cabin' shed in the garden I increased ship building space and now have made my own work bench 8ft long and very sturdy and have space for all my current machine tools plus have added a Byrnes thicknesser, industrial thicknesser , loads of air filters and a specialist vac for fine dust, drill press, sherline longbed lathe and sherline milling machine.

Plus a lot more tweezers, spanners, etc etc. Ran out of space again now which is a shame as a standing Band saw would be a lovely addition but have enough to scratch build as long as spend a little more for pre-thinned stock.

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. In this post we will review the essential tools you will require to successfully build your model ship. Hobby Knife A hobby knife or snap blade knife is an essential tool for model ship building.

The blade is retractable and it is advisable to retract it when it is not being used. As the front cutting section of blade becomes dull from use it is a simple matter to break that section of the blade off and extend the blade further in the holder to expose a new and sharper blade piece.

There is a blade locking mechanism in the handle. When you have extended the blade to the desired length slide the mechanism back to lock the blade in place. This will ensure the blade does not slide in or out while it is being used which could be dangerous.

Razor saws are a very useful tool for accurately cutting the timbers used for model building. The kerf or blade cut is exceptionally fine. As the name implies the blade is very sharp and care needs to be exercised when using the saw. The blades come in a range of depths and number of teeth�fine, medium and coarse�all are very sharp. The chisel, curved and pointed blades�each has a unique function from cutting the end off a length of rigging cord in a very confined space to fractionally fitting a piece of planking to finish off the hull.

The mitre box is used in conjunction with a razor saw to accurately cut lengths of timber either at a right angle or 45 degrees. It is made of aluminium and will last a lifetime. The mini plane is a small plane with a razor blade as the cutting blade. The depth of blade cut can be adjusted by loosening the wing nut and moving the blade either in or out. It is the ideal tool to use when tapering the planks before bending them and fixing to the hull bulkhead frames.

A useful tool is a Sanding Block which has sandpaper glued to each face. The set has a range of sizes depending upon the application. They are particularly useful when fairing the bulkhead frames of a model.

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