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Twin keels sailboat, Bilge keel sailboat - All boating and marine industry manufacturers - Videos The Twin keel version allows a shallower draft while maintaining performance thanks to the asymmetric fins with bulb. As a bonus beaching becomes easy and stable. As a Brand: Archambault, BG Race. Feb 07, �� Most of the boats that are made with a single keel are for foreign clients were the twin keel is associated with slow boats. RM are really fast cruisers to the point of winning a comparative promoted by one of the major Italian magazine �Vela�, to elect the best fast cruiser between 13 an 14m. Find your sport keelboat sailboat easily amongst the 74 products from the leading brands (Pogo Structures, LDC, Esse Boats, ) on NauticExpo, the boating and maritime industry specialist for your professional purchases.
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This second Blue Bird of Thorne was extensively tank tested and is the only published technical data available. As a result, many important features came to light showing that twin keelers, if properly designed, have a number of inherent good qualities that make them an attractive proposition to the cruising sailor. The main advantages are as follows:. Higher sailing speeds than an ordinary cruising yacht of similar dimensions. Surprisingly, part of the reason for this is the relatively small wetted surface, which yields improved light air performance.

Modern twin keels are of high aspect ratio and present less wetted area then a full keel or long fin keel while retaining the steady helm associated with full keels. The twin keels become more effective with increased angle of heel, while a single keel becomes less effective. Because twin keels cant outward at the tip, the leeward keel becomes more vertical and deeper in the water as the boat heels.

The windward keel is working more horizontally creating downward lift that increases righting moment giving more power to carry sail. Also with this cant outward from the vertical, leeway forces water up to the root of the fin as opposed to spilling over the tip in a single keel.

Hydrodynamic tests have shown that decreasing end tip loss can double the effectiveness of a fin the sole purpose of keel winglets. The wave pattern reshapes to reduce the fore and aft crests.

At hull speed a hollow forms amidship, but the bilge keels cause a wave to form in this hollow, canceling out the stern wave and giving a flatter wake. To ensure the desired effect is at cruising speed the correct fore and aft placement of the keels and proper proportions must be checked by model testing.

This placement is critical, as the model data shows. Too far forward or too far aft and the resistance will dramatically increase. The deep plunging of an ordinary hull is avoided by the stabilizing action of the fins which are also very effective in dampening out rolling motions. The fins also provide a certain amount of lift to the stern at speed when the hull is upright. The effect of this lift is to flatten the trim angle, i.

Directional stability is markedly enhanced by the fins. This is demonstrated both by tank tests and full size yacht performance. Speed and fuel consumption under power are better then usual. The prop can work in clear water without being shrouded by the keel and rudder. In the case of the motorsailer we were testing, 85 h. Also the yacht can be controlled in reverse, which is seldom true of single keel yachts.

The rudder areas are smaller for the same reason as the keels. Each rudder is more effective as it works upright, deep in the water. Both keels and rudders can be asymmetrical more curve on one side than the other like a wing, and tailored to work on their one specific tack.

This again makes them more efficient allowing smaller appendages. Windward ability equal to that of an ordinary yacht is achieved on a fixed draft approximately comparable to that of a centerboarder without the problems associated with lifting foils. Windward performance in rough water is superior because of the roll and pitch dampening abilities of the keels. Stability is equal to that of an ordinary yacht without recourse to extreme beam.

Righting moment and range of stability are at least equal to those of a well designed centerboard yacht of relatively deep fixed draft, because ballast can be placed in each fin the ballast is as low as any keel-centerboarder. The general advantages of twin keels include the ability to take groundings in a level position. This allows the bottom to be cleaned and painted although the shorter and shorter keels are making this more precarious , without the cost and nuisance of a haul out, as well as being easily shipped without a cradle.

When sailing in shallow water, if one should touch bottom, the boat rights and clears itself. This is possible because twin keels draw more water when heeled than upright, unlike single keel boats which when righted dig themselves in deeper.

Research have shown that all the above stated advantages are very real, and that by using current state of the art design practices, twin keel yachts can produce very high performance boats. In England many production single keel yachts have had twin keel versions added to the production line up which have performed better then their single keel counterparts. In racing circles, no one has ever argued with the superiority of bilge boards essentially lifting bilge keels. Scows dating back to the beginning of this century have used bilge boards exclusively.

Traditionally, these were non-structural, shallow and long, largely intended to reduce rolling. Twin keels, in contrast, replace the central keel entirely and the boat is structurally adapted to make these the main ballast-bearing hull appendages.

Some early twin keel moldings simply added two shallow-draught keels either side of the centreline, at right angles to the waterline and parallel to the centreline, but these boats often tended to sag to leeward when sailing upwind, and sometimes lacked the proper hull reinforcement at the attachment points.

More modern twin keels tend to be much better hydrodynamically aligned and, some argue, provide at least as much lateral resistance as a single keel, though in theory, more drag.

A boat with two keels will tend to be heavier because of the additional reinforcement needed to bear the loads of the ballast and of drying out, and will usually have a higher centre of gravity because of their reduced draught. Again, modern construction, narrow-chord keels and ballast bulbs all help to reduce these effects. The art of drying out is all about finding the right spot to take the bottom.

In an ideal world, you would find somewhere that is totally sheltered. Finding a sheltered anchorage without too much swell is vital when drying out. Credit: Alamy. The type of bottom makes a difference too. Gravel, sand or mud are ideal and will normally be pretty level.

Similarly, have a look at the forecast. If the wind is forecast to change while you are dried out, check that the anchorage will remain protected. While charts will help, local knowledge is king. Almanacs and pilot books will give useful advice for where to go, but ask other sailors too.

Once you have chosen where to dry out, you will need to anchor. If you are in an open bay with plenty of space, a single bow anchor will be fine. If it is important which way you are facing when you dry out, however, such as on a sloping beach, in a narrow river, or if there are other boats around, you will need to lay both a bow and a stern anchor to control your position.

In drying harbours, there may already be moorings, often fore-and-aft, to stop the boat from swinging. You may need to rig extra gear to keep the boat upright.

Some fin keel and lift keel boats will have drying-out legs. Bilge keelers with reasonably long keels fore and aft will be stable enough fore and aft with no additional gear, but more modern twin-keelers often aim to create a tripod, between keels and a weight-bearing rudder or an additional leg. The Django has an adjustable transom leg. If you are in a place you are familiar with and have dried out in before, you should be safe to anchor or moor the boat securely and head ashore while the tide goes out.

If you are somewhere new, however, it is worth staying with the boat for the critical period that the keels are taking the bottom until the boat is securely aground. It is worth staying on your yacht while it is drying out if you are stopping somewhere unfamiliar.

This is particularly true if your boat has drying out legs, as the relatively small surface area of the leg could end up on a rock or a soft spot, and will need adjusting and tensioning to keep their boat comfortably upright.

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