How to Clean Solid Oak Kitchen Cabinets - Solid Wood Kitchen Cabinets Information Guides

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Where has this vacuum been all our lives?! With the Bissell CrossWave, you can mop up wet messes and suck up debris at the same time -- ideal for cleaning up cereal spills and other kitchen mishaps. You can use it on tile, hardwood, carpet, linoleum, and more, and the best part it that Wooden Kitchen Top Oil Co. Ltd it's surprisingly compact and easy to stash in the closet, unlike many other carpet cleaners. Notable Amazon customer review: "My Crosswave just arrived today and I was on my way out but decided to stay home as I was excited to try it out.

We have a large area consisting mostly of wood but have some tile and marble areas. What a breeze it was not having to use different cleaning products and mops and I could just go right through the house on different surfaces without even vacuuming.

Most kitchens have hard floors, whether it's wood, tile, or linoleum, so you need a vacuum that does well on these types of surfaces. Luckily, there's the Spiffy Maid Bagless Broom Vacuum from Fuller Brush, which will blow you away with its ability to pick up dirt, dust, hair, and more off hard floors. Reviewers say it has amazing suction and is incredibly lightweight and easy to use.

Notable Amazon customer review: "This is the perfect lightweight vacuum, electric broom, whatever you want to call it. I have a Dyson and it's a great vacuum but it does not work well on tile floors. Others may disagree but mine have little grooves in the detailing and it just didn't do the job. Modern robot vacuums models are incredibly efficient and much more affordable than they used to be. It can run for up to minutes per charge, and it will keep your kitchen floor spotless without you having to move a muscle.

Notable Amazon customer review: "I don't consider my house clean unless the floors are spotless. With 2 dogs and 2 cats one of whom sheds enough to knit a sweater each year , my house rarely meets my own unattainable standards. Eufy gets me close. This vacuum might look a little funky at first glance, but the V-shaped brush head is actually pretty smart. The Bissell Hard Floor Expert Stick Vacuum uses its unique shape to trap debris in its path, and it makes it easier to clean in crevices and around furniture.

However, as you may have guessed by its name, this vacuum is designed for use on hard floors -- great for the kitchen, but maybe not so much for other areas of the house. Notable Amazon customer review: "This thing sucks up every last dang thing on your floor. The Shark Navigator is a top-rated canister vacuum among reviewers thanks to its light weight, HEPA filter, powerful suction, and lift-away canister.

Its many features make it a versatile cleaning tool, and if you're in the market for a new vacuum to use in the kitchen and beyond, this product should definitely be on your short list. Notable Amazon customer review: "This Shark is a very powerful, compact, and maneuverable vacuum!

It pulls more crud out of my carpets than any other vacuum I've ever used. Get a glimpse of our worktops in situ. Many thanks to our customers for allowing us a peek into their homes. Our frequently-updated fabrication gallery gives a good indication of the beautiful bespoke pieces we can create.

We supply a number of accessories to complement our wide range of worktops, from extremely resilient butchers' blocks made from the end grains of the timbers to upstands. We also provide a bespoke worktop cutting service, through which wooden worktops can be fabricated as required.

Create a seamless and hygienic join between your worktop and wall with our coordinating wooden worktop upstands. Our fantastic range of sinks includes quality models from Rangemaster, as well as our great-value own-brand options. We are pleased to provide a collection of high-quality taps designed to complement our extensive range of kitchen sinks. End grain butcher block worktops are formed by joining staves in a vertical formation, for enhanced strength.

Wood is extremely versatile, and can be customised with absolute precision by our experienced craftsmen. Our worktop accessories collection has everything you could need to enhance your wood worktops: from upstands to hot rods and more. Our solid wood floating shelves are perfect for the home or office, and come in a range of lengths with brackets included. View our range of solid wood table tops - perfect for restaurants, bars, cafes and in the home.

Our solid wood butchers block trolleys are the ideal kitchen companion. Available in a lacquered or painted finish. Our worktop visualiser will help you find the perfect worktop - mix and match colours and door styles with our surfaces until you find the one.

See the exceptional quality of our products before placing your order, without ever needing to leave the comfort of your own home. Design, price and order your bespoke worktop online - a quick and easy way to buy your made-to-measure worktops. We use cookies to give you the best experience on our website - if you are happy with this, just continue shopping. Alternatively, you can find more information in our cookie policy. Shop By Range. Shop By Colour.

Shop By Style. View our full range of kitchen worktops. Solid Wood Worktops. Laminate Worktops. View all 55 ranges of laminate worktops. Zenith Worktops. Worktop Express. View all 14 ranges of solid laminate worktops. Solid surface. Solid surface worktops. Carrara NEW! Ferrato NEW! For Your Worktop. For Your Kitchen.

To be fair they are very similar in look and finish, I would expect the Osmo to have the slight edge on coverage but the Holzol is quicker drying. Essentially they both require two thin coats for application.

We have moved into a property that had solid dark looking walnut worktops. I have spent the weekend sanding these down quite significantly and the result is a lot lighter and we like this lighter more natural look, but what is our next step.

I have sanded with a 40 grain so presume I now need to do a much finer round but what do we oil with after that will keep this new look that we like? Really would appreciate any advice. Thank you for your question, yes, is the answer sanding to a finer grit. So depending on how much time you would like to spend on it and how smooth your would like the surface to be, you could sand with a 80 grit next and then finish with a grit.

Or going straight to the grit will be fine, this will still give a smooth even finish ready for application of a Hard Wax Oil to protect the wood. To keep the wood looking and feeling natural but still offer the protection required for a kitchen worktop I would recommend Holzol Worktop Oil this particular oil is a little thinner than some of the others and will work better with a hardwoods such as Walnut and Oak.

W9ndering which oil is best for iroko which I am having installed in a couple of weeks. Can you tell me a little more about your project, is it interior or exterior?

Decking, flooring, furniture or something else. And i may be able to narrow down some options for you. If you would like to email me direct you can do his through our contact us page. Both have the Pros and Cons for sure.

If we start with a varnish, this is a surface sealer Wooden Kitchen Top Cleaner 4th that is certainly more durable, longer lasting and hard wearing.

It sits on the surface of the wood and can be compared to a plastic like finish, however many of the modern varnishes now also give a more natural look and come in a range of sheens.

The downside to varnish is that it is harder to repair or change down the line, scratches are difficult to hide or repair. It can be easier to apply and has a quicker drying time.

Oils although still very durable and hard wearing will not last as long as a varnish, they have a far more natural look and feel and many people prefer this and only require two very thin coats applied, so a little goes a long way. The benefit of having an oil is that it is far easier to maintain and repair over time. So if a scratch or accident marks the oil the you can lightly sand the effected area and re oil, it will blend well and nearly always look as good as new.

When it starts to fade you can simply clean the floor and reapply the oil with out the new to strip. My advice would be to sand back the floor and if you are unsure of which route you want to take, both varnishes and oils are available in sample sizes on our website and it is important to try the products on your wood as the type, age and condition of the wood will all impact on the finish that will be achieved.

I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact page. We have a lovely maple kitchen that was installed in and still looks good overall.

The work surfaces have been oiled occasionally but not recently and are beginning to look a bit grubby in places. We used a Ronseal worktop oil last time. What would you recommend we use this time and what steps should I take to prepare before application? Do I need to sand down the surfaces � there are a few water stains near the sink but the rest is just slightly grimy mixed with old oil I think? I understand oil sealants are much improved recently.

What is the best one for maple? You advice will be much appreciated. Kind regards David. Thank you for your questions. For the best result you can remove all the existing finish by sanding, removing all the previous oil and wiping down with White Spirit once clean and dry the wood is ready for fresh treatment and to start with I would recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is particularly good for areas exposed to a fair amount of moisture and temperature changes.

It will help prevent damage to the wood. You can then follow this with a top coat of Osmo Top Oil which will make the moisture and stain repellent and is a very durable and hard wearing finish. I do strongly recommend test areas with both products as they can and will darken the wood very slightly and you will need to ensure you like the finish to be achieved. We are buying walnut worktops. How much oil to apply comes down to the type of oil used.

The benefit of these is that they offer exceptional durability, are very easy to apply and maintain, require minimal maintenance and in most cases require just 2 thin coats. As Walnut is a dense hardwood, the top, bottom, sides and ends will only require 2 thin coats of a hard wax oil. When applying its important to work the oil into the surface of the wood grain and wipe off any excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth.

All the brands mentioned are excellent and although they all have their own unique formulations, they all offer excellent protection on kitchen worktops. For further information about each product, please feel free to contact one of our resident wood experts who are on hand and happy to answer any questions you may have. What application would you recommend? We also have an iroko island unit worktop which I have tried several times to treat with polyeurethane but it get white marks when cleaned with damp cloths and is not hard wearing.

Any best ideas for this surface too Thanks. Are you able to tell me what the current finish is on the table, varnish or oil? Or are you planning to strip back to bare wood? In regards to the Iroko Island, it could be in relation to Wooden Kitchen Top Cleaner Cleaners a high oil content in the Iroko, being a tropical hard wood it has a tight grain and a naturally high oil content and this could be impacting on the polyurethane.

If you are planning to remove the treatment and bring the Iroko back to bare wood I would recommend, firstly wiping over with Barrettine Methylated Spirits to remove the natural oil from the surface.

And then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an extra thin oil suited for use with tropical hard wood such as Iroko. It will absorb better and only two thin coats are required for this. If you have a look at the products recommended and feel free to get back to me with any questions via our contact us page. Any suggestions please? You could have a look at the Bona Craft Oil which has a couple of paler colours in the range.

Applying a lighter colour on to a darker wood does not always give the desired colour and so I would recommend test area first to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved, the wood that you are applying to will impact on the over all colour to be achieved. This product does not come in a sample size unfortunately. So for an alternate that does have a sample size you could have a look at Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.

There is a white in this range it is quite a subtle white and may be enough to highlight the grain. Test areas are the key to getting the look you want. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. We have had just brand new light oak, full stave worktops fitted to our new kitchen.

The colouring is very important to the whole aesthetic � matching the grey panted cabinet doors and our light oak engineered flooring. So we want to avoid applying any protective oils etc. Do you have any ideas about what might be the best coating we could apply to retain the colour as much as possible. Many clear products will change the wood very slightly, darkening a little or highlighting the grain and natural tones of the wood.

As you are looking to treat a worktop it needs to be a durable finish and so I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw. This is a durable and hard wearing product that is moisture and dirt resistant. It is easy to apply and food safe once dry.

It requires two thin coats applied to bare wood and because it has a minute amount of white pigment in it, this counteracts the darkening effect you get with the clear products. There is a sample size available and I would recommend a test area first. I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch. We are having our kitchen redone. Our old wooden worktop was finished with Danish Oil and while this looked good,it is too dark for what we now have in mind.

We would like to keep the wood as blonde as possible. Can you recommend anything colourless and non shiney that will be durable and resilient? Yes I can recommend a product for your worktops.

This is a much more durable and hard wearing oil than the Danish oil. It requires just two thin coats for application and because it contains a minute amount of white pigment it will leave the wood looking as unchanged as possible. I would recommend removing the remaining Danish Oil form the wood by wiping down with White Spirit or sanding back. A test area is always recommended and if you have any further questions I am happy to help.

Hi, we have solid walnut worktops that are in need of oiling. The worktop was left a bit streaky. Recently the wortop has become tacky to the touch hence this post! I contacted our kitchen suppler who advised that a product with a hardener would be a good idea and a more permanent treatment. I was hoping that you might advise on an appropriate product? From reading the other posts Work Top Oil would seem a good option, does this have hardener in the product?

How should I prepare the surface as it already has several coats of Danish oil applied? What application method do you find gives the best results? Thank you for getting in touch. I would recommend removing the Danish Oil first however, as the worktop oil requires very thin application to bare wood, any oil already applied will reduce the saturation levels and impact on how of the work top oil will be absorbed effectively.

Once applied the finish should last for a year minimum but potentially longer depending on use. And then you can simply re apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it.

Feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. This feels like a daft question, but do I need to sand before I re-apply the oil? If yes, how much sanding is required � i. For re oiling a surface it may not be necessary to sand back although it will benefit from a denib with a Finishing Pad. This will help to improve any finish. It will depend on the condition of the surface.

We do have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips for application. Do you know what oil you have on the surface? I will be able to offer a suggestion of an oil should you need to purchase one. The last treatment done over a year ago is a bit sticky in places. Oil soaks into a very thin layer of the the surface of the wood and there will be a point where it accepts no further oil and so any subsequent applications will sit on the surface and be ineffective.

My best advice, although I know it not what you want to do, is to sand back to bare wood and start again with a product such as Manns Premier Top Oil. This is a long lasting oil that dries hard and gives a water repellent protective finish, which should only need a top up coat very two to three years depending on use of the worktop.

Hi, I have wooden kitchen worktops that have been finished with a Swedish wood oil. I did about 6 coats. However, I find that it is staining really easily and marking, red wine, oil etc.

Can I just re oil over the top, or do I need to sand first? Oils are designed to soak into the surface of the wood. They normally require 2- 3 coats maximum, but this does depend on the type of oil you are using and I am not familiar with the Swedish Oil that you have used.

The wood will become saturated at some stage and will no longer accept further oil and when this happens the oil sits on the surface of the wood and dries. This oil will be easily marked or stained as it is unable to protect effectively. Its worth checking on the packaging to see what the recommended number of coats are. If you find that you have over applied, removing the surface coats can be done by wiping down with White Spirit or a light sanding.

Hi I have inherited pine wooden work tops and cupboards tops that were previously treated with a diamond seal varnish that is peeling off. What is the best way to remove the varnish and do I need to take it back to bare wood in preparation for using a top oil. Wish to avoid a pine yellowy finish and looking to slightly darken the colour, I see osmo do a top oil in acacia colour, would this be appropriate on pine wood?

Once back to clean, bare wood you can think about applying the Osmo Top Oil and we have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips on the application process.

A test area should always be carried out first to ensure that you are getting the colour and finish that you want. It is its first time being treated so has nothing already on the surface, many thanks. Thank you for your enquiry. The Osmo Top Oil will be ideal for your butchers block. It is food safe liquid repellent and easy to apply and maintain. The clear will darken the wood slightly and highlight the grain of the wood.

The Natural will leave the wood looking as untreated as possible. If you take look at this product and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Hi, I have new oak worktops which are pre-oiled. A couple of splashes of water are already showing.

I was told to remove them with steel wool and lemon oil. Two questions: can I just use worktop oil instead of lemon oil?





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