Kitchen worktops come in a huge variety of materials and styles, from man made laminate and composite materials to natural materials such as stone, granite, quartz and wood. All of which give a very specific look and feel and while some worktops can be relatively cheap, others can cost thousands. One of the more popular kitchen worktop materials, both traditionally and today, is wood.
Even if it does, repair is usually quicker, easier and cheaper. Although wood is a great material for kitchen worktops, it does require some care to keep it looking great and functioning well. Wood oils have been used for centuries to protect and preserve wood and although the same is true today, new types and blends of oils are more commonly used.
By its nature, wood is porous meaning that if left untreated, liquids, juices and bacteria from meats and other sources can seep into the surface grain, discolouring and staining the wood.
More importantly, the unsealed wood can create the perfect environment for germs and bacteria to collect and breed. A common issue with poorly maintained kitchen worktops is black mould around taps and sinks. This is usually caused by water damage and mould spores growing in the surface of the timber, encouraged by warm, damp conditions.
This will remove the black staining and kill off the bacteria and spores responsible. In severe cases, a second treatment may be required. Simply speaking, oiling wooden worktops works by filling the surface grain of the timber with natural oils and waxes, that dry and harden in the surface fibres of the timber. This acts as an effective wood preserver and sealer, helping to prevent moisture and bacteria from entering the wood grain.
So why use a modern worktop oil? Which is best? We hear you ask. The difference between traditional wood oils and the newer ranges of wooden worktop oil products comes down to several key differences.
The number of coats can depend on the type and condition of the wood, many of the traditional oils may require anything from 3 to 7 coats to be effective and with drying times of around 24 hours between coats, oiling a wooden work top could take as long as a week. In comparison, most modern top oils require just 2 thin coats and are dry in 4 to 8 hours, depending on the oil brand and environmental conditions. In terms of durability, traditional wood oils tend to require maintenance on a more regular basis as they dissipate in the wood and evaporate from the surface of the worktop more quickly than their modern equivalents.
Modern purpose made worktop oils are made from specially formulated blends of waxes and oils, that harden in the surface of the wood, to form a durable, protective barrier. Modern kitchen worktop oils are highly refined and are blended with solvents to thin and aid penetration into the surface of the wooden work top.
In many cases, especially on denser woods, traditional wood oils will not penetrate in to the wood as well unless they are first thinned with turps. While Holzol Worktop Oil is a great all rounder. The great thing with an oiled wooden worktop is that they look great, are easy to maintain and repair even if they do become stained, scratched or worn looking.
Applying a top oil to a kitchen worktop will enhance the natural colour, grain and character of the timber. See our full range of wooden worktop oils here. For more information about wood oils and their uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
Alternatively, see our wood oils FAQ page which covers many of the most commonly asked questions about wood oils. We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project.
If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook , Twitter , Pinterest or Instagram pages. Hi I be just bought solid maple worktops for my kitchen. I want to keep them as natural as possible with a Matt finish.
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. You could take a look at the Osmo Top Oil Natural this is a penetrating oil that is designed to leave the wood looking as untreated as possible, whilst still giving great protection. You will need to apply very very thinly on Maple and I would recommend a test areas first to ensure the oil is able to absorb well into the wood.
Maple is a slightly more difficult wood to work with than some and so the test area is important. If you do find there are any issues with the the oil absorbing then I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Extra Thin as an alternative, better suited to hard woods it will darken the wood slightly, but will offer great protection.
Sample sachets are available for test areas and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. I currently have solid oaks wooden worktops which have become worn and have a few marks on them. After sanding them down, what are the best products to use?
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. If you have taken the worktops back to bare wood and want to achieve a walnut finish, I would recommend the Fiddes Hard wax Oil Tints as a really good option. I actually have this on my own worktops and have had no issues for 3 years now. And on oak it gives a lovely warm walnut finish. Two very thin coats applied to the well prepared bare wood is all that is needed and I would also recommend the Osmo Wood Protector for sink areas as this gives an extra level of defence against moisture ingress.
This should be applied before the oil. And always try test areas first to ensure you like the result achieved. Hi, we have Ikea oak wortops and they are forever getting dark water marks on them, even if you leave a food can that is wet on there for a few seconds it leaves a mark.
I want to strip them back and oil them but I want something that is going to be durable and I am not going to have to sand back and re-treat if I get another water mark. What is the toughest wearing worktop solution that you know of? Is your oak worktop solid oak or veneered? Is it bare wood or does it have an existing finish? From what you are saying it sounds like it is bare wood or that the original finish has worn off. If your worktop is solid oak, sand the surface of your worktop with a grit sandpaper to remove all surface marks and stains.
Take care to remove all traces of sanding dust with a vacuum cleaner or slightly damp, lint-free rag or microfibre cloth. Once fully dry, the worktop can be treated with a worktop oil. A standard, clear worktop oil will darken the wood and enhance its natural colour, character and grain. The appearance will look similar to how the wood looks when slightly dampened.
These products have been specifically designed to better retain the natural, untreated look of lighter coloured timbers such as oak and pine. When applying these products, all that is required is 2 thin coats. Apply the first coat working the oil into the surface of the wood with a clean, white uncoloured lint free cloth or microfibre cloth.
Remove any excess oil from the surface of the wood. Once fully dry, apply the second coat again removing any excess oil from the surface of the wood. Worktop oils and Hardwax oils are durable, easy to apply, maintain and repair. Oiled surfaces should never be cleaned with household detergents or cleaners such as washing-up liquids as these are designed to break down and dissolve grease and oils. Always use a dedicated wood surface cleaner. Would it be wise to use the Osmo wood protector and then a top oil or would the Osmo top oil be sufficient?
My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I would absolutely recommend you apply the Osmo Wood Protector first as this will give a greater level of protection from moisture ingress in these areas. And then follow with two thin coats of the Top Oil. This combination will give a long lasting and durable finish for your wooden worktops. For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with one of our friendly team via our contact us page.
Its not going to be used for food prep and needs to be hard wearing so is a varnish going to be better than oil? The is a sink so there will be water splashed about.
Can you recommend any particular product? We would like to keep the wood as light as possible. It sounds like an interesting project, my concern would be that if it has been used as a science lab table that a wide range of chemicals and substances may have been absorbed into the wood over the years.
Test areas will be vital with whatever product you decide to use. There are a couple of options that you are able to consider and the first, that you have mentioned, is a varnish, Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is a surface sealer with a long lasting durability.
It has anti bacterial properties that make it perfect for kitchen surfaces. The only down side to a varnish is that should the seal break down at any point and allow moisture under it will peel and flake fairly quickly and can be difficult to repair.
The alternative is and oiled finish, this has the benefit of being a penetrating finish that will not peel and flake over time, it is not as long lasting as a varnish, however is easier to maintain and repair. Used with the Osmo Wood Protector in sink area this will give a well protected moisture repellent finish. This requires application to bare wood that has been sanded to a � grit and so to use this you may need to re sand and open up the grain a little and for Iroko I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin designed for use on hardwoods such as Iroko.
The oil will highlight more so than the varnish any imperfections that may be in the wood due to its history. I hope this helps some and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
I have a large quantity of Osmo Polyx oil left over. Is it OK to use it on wooden kitchen worktops instead of buying a new tin of Top Oil? The Polyx Oil will be fine to use on your work tops as long as the wood is ready to accept further coats. Test areas will help to determine this. Osmo Polyx Oil is food safe once dry and will give as good a protective finish to your work top as the Osmo Top Oil will.
I hope that helps but please do not hesitate to get back to me if you have any further questions. Can you advise which of your products I should try please? Thank you. Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. I can recommend the Osmo Top Oil Natural This protective oil contains a minute amount of white pigments to counteract the darkening you would usually get with a clear oil.
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