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Contact us at: info boatplans. Toggle navigation Boatplans. Row boat plans Sailboat aluminum bass boat plans zip code Power boat plans. Oars, sail or outboard 7' 10" 2.

Oars or sail 12' 3. Sail her, go vode, or go exploring under oars 12' 3. Shallow draft, trailerable 23' 7. D5 by Bateau. Oars, sail or outboard. Dixi Dinghy by Dudley Dix plywood boag. Weekend Dinghy by Chesapeake Marine Design 9 ft sailing skiff. Adele by John Welsford A miniature flattie apuminum the kids.

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Didi 23 by Dudley Dix Radius chine plywood trailer-sailer. Vagabond 23 by Bateau. Shallow draft, trailerable. Strider by Woods Designs The "Classic" trailable catamaran. Catbird 24 by Chesapeake Marine Design Sailing sharpie cruiser. Gwahir by Woods Designs High performance trailable catamaran. Dabbler by Chesapeake Marine Zpi Double-ended sailing cruiser. Sango by Woods Designs Folding trailable cat with central cuddy.

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Waller by Mike Waller Yacht Design

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Also, production builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded first. These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality. Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone.

First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat. Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high. Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i.

Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats. First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service. But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement.

The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel. But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines.

This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up. Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel.

Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e. Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold.

In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i. But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.

And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation. Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc.

In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity.

Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.

However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus.

Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want.

If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc. But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted.

Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel. You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make.

Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified.

Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin.

The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape. In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel.

About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight.

Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating.

The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides.

As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously.

From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities.

Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat. However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.

Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard.

In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary backing member may aid in fitting. Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat.

While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines. As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.

These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate. Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig.

This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating. Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut.

This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent. A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs.

The handling. The look. Nothing compares. I have owned an Xpress X21 for four years and love the ability to fish anywhere in the country out of an aluminum boat.

Also, being a guide I am able to have clients fish comfortably and safely with all of the storage and deck space available. Starting out young fishing the Gulf with my dad to fishing my first bass tournament just 7 years ago.

I have always been a competitive person and I am drawn to the rush of adrenaline that pumps through as they call numbers at the launch of a tournament and the reward of holding up your winning catch at weigh in.

I have fished the Bassmaster Opens for the last 5 years 3 as a Co-angler, 2nd year as a Pro hoping to join the ranks of some of the best fisherman in the world! Over the last 5 years of owning Xpress Boats, they have gone above and beyond to make me feel like part of the family. I was born fishing saltwater at a young age but was always intrigued about bass fishing.

I have had a smaller Xpress for years along with a bigger fiberglass boat. I started running the Xpress X19 full time and its been nothing but awesome. I fish a lot of shallow water locally and the X19 gives me everything i need to fish shallow, big, skinny and rugged water anywhere in the country. Continue to pursue what your heart desires, never forgetting to be an arm of the sales and promotional market for the company I represent.

Most importantly sharing the gospel of Jesus each and every step along the way. Hayden and his dad are great individuals to work with and will meet all your needs when purchasing your new Xpress. Its always a great experience. Running a Yamaha is the only option for powering my Xpress. The SHO on the back of the X19 is nothing but a pure adrenaline rush. I have been running Yamaha since my fishing career began and the dependability is above and beyond all expectations.

One of the finest-performing fishing solutions on the water today is within your reach. Xclusive says it all, the best of the best! Scroll or Rotate to see specs. What happens when you take the finest padded hull design in the industry, years of innovation, coupled with essential features all at an economical price?

You get the new Hyper-Lift Bass Series. Fast, dry, pad hull design is your solution to getting you to and from your destination safely and most certainly, quickly! The Hydro-Dynamic hull has been designed and perfected by Xpress Boats and offers you that added sense of comfort knowing you are structurally secure to go just about anywhere you want or need to go. Unibody injected foam exceeding Coast Guard standards has set a standard for everyone else to follow.

This is the right boat for any application, fish or fowl, this is the Xplorer Series by Xpress, why settle for anything less.

XpressBoats WeBuildXcitement. Mark A. Mandy B. Steve J. Meaux H. Harvey H. Jack H. I love the way it rides and handles in extremely rough water and how shallow it drafts. Dale H. Brandon D. Chris K. Jay L. Previous Next. Approximate Weight 1, lb. Max Wt. Total Wt. Aluminum � Gauge 0. Xplore the Xclusive Pro Bass Series. Approx Weight 1, lb. Xplore the Hyper-Lift Bass Series. Xplore the Xplorer Bass Series. Digital and hard copy versions available.

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