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Choosing a design that will suit several boaters or the general public is more difficult. The DGIF tries to design ramps that are suitable for most of the boats in the area of the proposed ramp, knowing that we cannot satisfy the needs of every boater. This article will briefly address site criteria, permits, design, construction methods and materials for typical ramps for launching and retrieving boats in the foot range that are typically used for sport fishing and recreational power boating.

This article presents a number of items for your consideration should you be thinking of building a boat ramp, but is not intended to be a guide on how to build a boat ramp. When selecting and evaluating a site as a potential boat ramp site, consideration must be given to site accessibility, proximity to other boat ramps, water depths, siltation rates and usable land area parking, turning radius, etc.

One of the more obvious considerations to site selection is its proximity to existing roads and other ramps. Road construction and maintenance is expensive, therefore the closer the site is to a maintained road, the better.

Also, the DGIF prefers not to compete with private launch-for-fee ramps if they can meet the public demand. Those thinking of building their own ramp would do well to consider using existing ramps if they are available, and even cost sharing maintenance expenses with the owner. Water depth should be no less than three feet at the end of the ramp during mean low water, though four feet deep is more desirable. If drive-on trailers will be used for launching and retrieving boats power loading , consider extending the ramp to a depth of five feet or installing riprap at the end of the ramp.

Another alternative is to increase the slope of the ramp for the last feet so the end of the ramp will be in deeper water or dug into the bottom to protect the end of the ramp. If the end of the ramp is not protected, the prop wash created from power loading will erode a hole at the end of the ramp, which will cause a sharp drop-off and can undermine the end of the ramp.

If the trailer wheels are then backed off the end of the ramp that has a drop-off, the trailer can hang on the end of the ramp causing damage to the trailer as the wheels are pulled back up onto the ramp. Most older DGIF ramps are not designed with drive-on trailers in mind and we are frequently adding riprap to the end of ramps as temporary repairs for the problems caused by prop wash.

Another water depth consideration is the possibility that the water depth will not remain constant. River channels shift from side to side, and might undercut the end of your ramp causing the end to break off. The same is true with channels in tidal areas, especially when the site is on a point that constricts a larger bay. Just the opposite is true of sites at the back of small bays, near stream inlets, or on long sandy beaches.

These sites are often areas of active deposition, where silt or sand might cover your ramp. Dredging and maintenance dredging to obtain deep water is expensive, can adversely impact the environment, and is often complicated since suitable sites must be located for placement of the dredged material.

If dredging can be avoided, do so! The size of the ramp and parking area depends on the anticipated use. Our general rule of thumb is that one launching lane should have about car-trailer parking spaces. Most of our ramps have daily turnover rates of 2. If no more than 80 launches per day are anticipated, one launching lane is adequate. More than 80 launches justify additional launching lanes and parking spaces. When deciding how many parking spaces can be provided on a tract of land, one should remember that a vehicle-trailer parking space should be at least 10 feet wide and 40 feet long with adequate maneuvering room to line up and get into and out of the parking space.

A word of caution concerning boat ramp size is to not underestimate the land needed. Remember that large wetland areas cannot be disturbed. Also, a 30 or 40 foot turning radius and staging area is needed at the head of the ramp, and no matter how large you make public facilities, there will still be some calm, sunny, warm weekend day when it will not be enough.

If at all possible, reserve areas for expansion and overflow parking. After you have located a site for the boat ramp, know enough about how you want to build it to prepare a sketch. The next step is to apply for the necessary permits. A local building permit is also required in some localities.

To learn what permits will be required, contact the Virginia Marine Resources Commission at Washington Avenue, Newport News, Virginia , Phone , and your local building inspector.

The design of the site, ramp and pier will have a major impact on construction and maintenance costs, and the usability of the facilities. Take the time required to get a durable, economical and functional design.

Provide adequate room to bring the towing vehicle Boat Ramp Construction Methods Us and trailer in good alignment with the ramp, and enough space for a staging area to ready the boat for launching.

If possible, place the pier on the same side of the ramp as the driver. This will give the driver a better view as they back the trailer alongside the pier. One-way traffic in the parking area and staging area is desirable to reduce congestion. Angle parking is usually easier to accomplish than other parking plans, and reduces the required width of driving lanes in the parking lot.

Parking spaces and traffic patterns should be clearly marked to reduce traffic congestion and to ensure maximum efficiency of available parking space. A one percent slope minimum across the parking lot and staging area helps prevent ponding of water on those areas, yet causes a slow runoff that reduces erosion on untreated surfaces. The slope should be directed away from the ramp if possible to prevent gravel, sand, etc.

If two launching lanes are to be constructed, a single pier between the lanes can serve both lanes and reduce costs and insures that one boater cannot tie-up both lanes at the same time. For high use facilities, a double lane ramp with L-head courtesy piers on both sides will help reduce congestion during peak launching and retrieval time. A line should be painted down the center of the ramp to assist boaters in staying on their side of the ramp.

Ramps 16 feet wide are preferred for the general public though many existing foot ramps have proven to be satisfactory at low use facilities. This takes additional time and resources. The bladder dam can be placed in the water, then filled with the water you want to displace forming a wall and keeping your work area dry.

Once the ramp is poured and dried, the water is drained back into the ramp area and the bladder dam removed. This eliminates the need for a holding tank, saving you time and money. This innovative solution is ideal for boat ramp construction and repair.

The area surrounding the proposed ramp should be large enough for vehicle and trailer parking and fairly flat, with an area for the ramp itself that is sloping into the water. The water should be of sufficient depth that the end of the ramp will be under at least four feet of water during low-water periods. The best time to build a boat ramp is during the low-water period of summer. More of the bank will be exposed during this time, allowing access to much more of the ramp site.

The ramp area should be graded to a slope of 12 to 15 percent. Whenever possible, the entire ramp should be one grade, but if necessary, a slight change in grade can be made in the ramp. Ensure that the trailer will not hit the ramp where the grade changes, and make any necessary grade changes as far up on the shore end of the ramp as possible.

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