Metal Boats For Blue Water - Kasten Marine Design

The site is under construction. The final price of the products may be different from the specified. Main Page Configurator Build your own configuration Windboat 4. Consoles with windscreen. Mooring ducks nylon 4 pcs.

Powerful gunwale with T-slot for mounting additional equipment and fenders. Side pockets for build your own boat steel ltd spinning rods. Dry ventilated locker ldt the battery. Dry ventilated bow deck lockers. Non-slip deck laminated moisture resistant plywood. Decorative pasting of cockpit sides with Carpet. Sounder sensor installation site. Steering system steering wheel, gearbox, cable.

Electrical equipment Wiring, side navigation lights, stern light, pump, ground breaker, 3pcs switch keys, 12V socket. Removable seat on the rack 2pcs. Choose color from palette RAL RAL Available to order without body painting. Additional options Fuel system 50l tank, fuel gauge, filler neck. Seat pedestal in fore cockpit ltc pc.

Stainless steel shipping catches on transom 2 pcs. Additional platform for echo sounder. Circular light on removable rack. Chest for battery, for electric motor. Deck plywood vinyl cover MariDeck. Deck plywood vinyl plated Mari Deck. Awning transport - cloth Oxford Korea.

Landing awning with stainless buttons - RipStop fabric Korea. Build your own boat steel ltd running - fabric Sauleda SeaStar Spain with installation.

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Roughneck Roughneck Deluxe Tiller. Full size patterns mean even faster construction since no lofting is necessary. For those who desire to loft their boats, however, a Table of Offsets is also provided.

They cover all aspects of the design including structural views and sections, scantlings, cabin construction, joinery arrangements, tank configurations, engine placements, rudders and underwater fittings, and spars on sailboat designs. In short, you get everything you need in the way of information to build your very own steel boat, and at a low price!

Steel is usually sold in quantity by weight. Simply use this figure times the cost of steel per pound in your area to arrive at a reasonable estimate for hull material costs.

Aluminum is also a superb material for boatbuilding by the person qualified in aluminum welding. Aluminum boats using welded marine alloy construction are strong, lightweight, durable, and easy to maintain. As with steel, the designs should be specifically intended for this material. Plans listed for aluminum construction include all the details necessary to build the boat in sheet aluminum. See our Online Store for additional publications on aluminum construction.

Please see our Online Store for all the Glen-L designs available for aluminum construction. The following can be used as a general guideline for selecting materials. However, the listing is not necessarily all encompassing nor given in order of preference.

To figure hull cost, use weight of hull times cost per pound. For further information on welding, see WeldingTipsandTricks.

The number of people with aluminum welding skills and access to fabricating equipment has increased considerably over the years. Yet many are unaware of fundamental considerations confronting the short-handed amateur building a single boat for his own account. The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting.

Thus there may be a tendency to want to apply mass-production techniques to the construction of just a single boat. But building a single boat yourself is considerably different from one built on a production line, and thus may require certain adjustments and even a revised mind set on the part of the builder.

First, there is no one, superior way to build an aluminum boat. In fact, there can be many suitable approaches and variations.

Consider the following. Because production builders are always thinking up ways to cut labor and material costs, and time required to build boats, they evolve specialized methods and materials that help toward these ends even if there is not necessarily any improvement in the boat itself. For example, they may use special proprietary extrusions to expedite some assembly process such as joining side and bottom plating at the chine see Fig.

Alternately, your chines might then be backed with a simple round bar Fig. None of these methods is necessarily superior, but just different due to circumstances. Also, production builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded first.

These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality. Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone. First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat.

Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high. Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i.

Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats. First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service.

But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement. The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel.

But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines.

This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up. Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel.

Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e. Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel.

More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold. In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i. But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar.

And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness. On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation.

Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.

So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc. In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity.

In the case where the boat can be constructed of a variety of materials, these are all listed to allow you to cost out the boat in each. Boat Lines plan, show hull sections, profile including all water and buttock lines, plan view including all water lines and buttock lines.

All frame spacing, stern or transom detail keel measurements, rudder and skeg should all be included and all dimensions are clearly shown. This sheet will help you to resist the temptation of trying to lay out the patterns on your living room floor.

On this sheet you are shown how to manufacture and assemble the frames, plus form up the stem and other parts of the basic framework. This sheet also shows how to set up all these items on a strong back or a system of bed-logs. The above forms the shape of your hull. This sheet will show the installation of the stringers and deck shelf plus installing the plating in metal boats.

In the case of radius chine boats additional information is supplied on installing these plates. Assuming you are building up-side-down, this sheet will show the turning over process. Now the boat is upright and this sheet covers the inside of the hull, and shows the installation of the floor webs, bulkheads, engine beds, and all interior stiffeners for your boat.

This sheet may show detail of the various items not covered in sheet 6. Often it takes two or more sheets to cover webs, bulkheads, boat plans: Sheet 8. This is the engineering sheet that covers the engine installation, locating and building the fuel and water tanks plus making the rudder.

Also included are details on making the stern and rudder tubes plus propeller shaft detail. Stanchions swim platforms and similar items may also be on this sheet. You may note that much of the above work can be completed before the deck and superstructure are in place. Individual builders will have a preference in this regard.

This sheet shows details the forming and installation of deck beams, side decks, foredeck, aft deck, cockpit construction and all deck framing detail of your boat design. Patterning and making the cabin sides cabin front etc.

In the case of the cabin sides the measurements should be adequate to enable you to make up a plywood pattern and trial fit before cutting the actual cabin side plates. This sheet covers such items as, deck fittings, additional rudder construction etc.





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