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Rowing Boat Plans

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Liked it? Share it! Facebook Twitter. With over two decades of experience in marine journalism, Lenny Rudow has contributed to publications including YachtWorld, boats. Boat Reviews. Jon Boats Lenny Rudow. Boating Guides. Boat Buyer's Guide. Boat Seller's Guide. Note though that once you have the bottom panels stitched together, the next step will show the method I used to spread the panels and stitch on the side panels.

Hint, unlike the video, I spread the bottom panels upside down and stitched the sides on around a form. Once you have the bottom two pieces stitched together, you need a way to spread them out and stitch on the sides.

I screwed these pieces to 2 sawhorses and put them at the proper distance according to the plans ie.. Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures during this step but again, this video does an excellent job of showing the stitching and gluing process. Once I had stitched on the side panels, I was ready to put in my filets and fiberglass tape on the inside of the boat.

Once the pieces were stitched together with wire, I wanted to flip the boat over and do the inside fillets ie.. To keep the correct shape of the boat, I made these outside support forms which I screwed on from the inside of the boat into the support legs. I made sure to position the legs an inch or so behind where the bulkheads will be attached so that I can install the bulkheads while it is sitting on this frame and the screws from the support legs will not be in the way.

Once the support forms were securely on place I flipped the boat over and applied the fillets to the seams and then the fiberglass tape. I then cut and installed the bulkheads in the proper locations and attached them with fillets and then fiberglass tape on both sides.

Again the excellent video showing the filetting process. Once the inside seams were filleted and taped with several layer of fiberglass, the hull was rigid enough that I could flip the boat over and remove the wire stitches or cut and sand them down. I then went over the bottom of the hull and sanded and smoothed the imperfections and applied slivers of wood and fillet material in places where there were gaps.

I was then able to apply fiberglass cloth over the entire bottom of the hull and also taped up the outside seams. Here is a video about this step in the process. Once the fiberglass was put on, a lot of sanding was required to smooth and prepare the surface for the next layers. With the boat flipped upright, I could now attach the fore and aft decks.

First I glued stringers 1" x 1" strips of wood around the inside edges of the spaces forward and aft of the bulkheads. The decks were glued to these edges with PL Premium glue. I stuffed the rear deck area with empty bottles for buoyancy. For the forward deck area, someone gave me some old closed cell foam flotation which I cut to fit into the area.

I would have used that for the rear deck area as well but I had already glued on that deck when I got the foam! Once the decks where glued in place, I rounded out the edges and applied fiberglass tape to all the seams. The boat should now be quite watertight. I also put in homemade inspection ports using plastic coffee cans. The board closest to the bulkhead also gives me a secure location to put a bolt which is used to secure the oar lock structure.

I needed to firm up the sides of the boat in order to be able to pick it up in the middle by myself. For this I deviated from the original plans and just put in external rub rails using 1. I glued them to the sides with PL Premium glue and some screws on the ends where the bending needed some extra help. I wanted to be able to use long oars on the boat along with a sliding seat. To accomplish this I took two 2. This is secured to the boat with a bolt on the front deck, and bolts on the sides of the oar locks.

For the sliding seat, I took an old "Leg Magic" exercise machine we had laying in our attic and removed one of the sliding feet to use as my seat. I put some wood under the center of the rails to prevent the rods from sagging under weight.

The foot rest assembling is on loan from a friend. Eventually, I may put a more comfortable seat on to the sliding mechanism. Took the boat out to our local small lake and christened it the Row'd Runner! Still need to paint it and put a picture of the Road Runner on the side! She rows very fast and smooth, but is a bit tippy.

A friend and I both tried to get into it but it was too unstable. Luckily we found out before we got into deep water although we gave all the fisherman a good laugh! I may build some cheap outriggers which should allow 2 people to use it as a canoe. Just gave the Row'd Runner a new look with white latex paint on the bottom and sides and glossy red on the top and rub rails! I'm really happy with the look.

I don't know if you know about the website duckworksmagazine, but you should send this instructable in as an article. Reply 3 years ago. I started to build this boat years ago, then lost interest. My daughter wanted her own kayak, so I taught her how to build a stitch and glue boat.

She did most of the work and got to launch her new kayak this past spring. One change we made was to replace the plywood bulkheads and fecks with foam to save weight.

I've gotten to paddle her boat a few times and am very impressed at how fast it is. Now i want to add a rowing rig to it to really get some speed.

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