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You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice.
However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative. To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives.
But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified. Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes. Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt.
However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin. The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape.
In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty. The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight.
Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat. In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating. The chine is the junction between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat.
On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides. As shown before, Fig. Otherwise, a backing member is largely optional. If a special extrusion as discussed before is available, these are acceptable. Side and bottom plating fit into the slots which are then welded continuously.
From an appearance standpoint, a continuous inside weld looks best. However, such extrusions are often proprietary items or otherwise prohibitive in cost, and a problem to buy and ship in small quantities. Completing the ends of such extrusions where they join to transom and stem areas is also not always easy for the builder making a single boat. However, if the protruding flange is too pronounced, there may be a tendency to hang up on rocks in certain boats such as whitewater boats, or snag debris and catch pilings in other types of boats depending on their use.
Otherwise, round bar bends around frames easily and gives a well-defined boundary to work to when fitting side and bottom plates. A temporary chine backing member may help in this regard. In this case the bottom is fitted first and cut with care along the chine line a temporary backing member may aid in fitting.
Then topsides are installed, letting the edge overhang the junction a distance as required to form the spray deflector flat. While a good design, this configuration also takes care to assure fair lines. As mentioned, on the modern aluminum hull, most plating is reinforced by longitudinals. While a good set of plans will specify what to use for these members, this does not necessarily rule out another alternative if what is specified is not available.
These are available in many sizes, often in the form of extrusions with radiused edges that facilitate welding, or you can cut your own from plate. Other stiffeners are often extruded shapes that can get costly and may not be as readily available in the sizes needed. When installing longitudinals, bending can present problems depending on curvature and member type. One approach some builders take to reduce bending effort is to gore members along their flanges as in Fig.
This idea is sound, but the execution takes care to assure fair curves. Good practice also calls for radiusing the corners at the gores slightly to minimize hard spots against the plating.
Avoid over-welding, and completely around the ends of each cut. This allows a strong fillet weld on both sides of the junction the inside weld can be intermittent. A simple corner junction here as in Fig. In fact, some builders extend the bottom plating considerably past the transom on faster planing hulls to form integral non-adjustable trim tabs.
These can later be bent down slightly if required for best performance and then bracketed to the transom once an optimum position has been found. Transom thickness technically need be no more than that of the side or bottom plating. Additional thickness may be required � at least in the area of the cut-out � either through the use of doublers or thick inserts.
A thicker insert is preferable at a cutout to avoid the need to seal joints between doublers by welding. Where thin plating meets thicker plating, bevel the thicker edge at a slope equal to at least three times the thickness of the thinner plate see Fig. The insert should have rounded corners rather than being a hard square or rectangular shape.
There is an on-going debate as to whether welded aluminum boats should be made as light as possible via light plating and framing but with more of it , or with heavier plating using minimal but also somewhat huskier framing members.
A boat built with light plating and framing is lighter in weight for more-economical operation, has a higher speed for a given power, is more-easily trailered, has greater payload, and because it has less material, will cost less. First, there is a natural tendency among builders in any material to over-build and second-guess the designer, even when a boat uses the heavier plating approach initially.
The typical idea is that if so much is good, then a little more must be better. The result is that such boats weigh more than the designer predicted. You guessed it � NOT the builder. Much depends on the boat and its expected service. For pleasure boats, I tend to favor lighter scantlings, but for more rigorous duty, heavier construction may be justified.
However, rather than simply increase plating thickness, you might get similar results by adding a few more internal stiffening members instead. An appealing possibility on metal boats is tanks integral with the hull, which is acceptable for diesel fuel but not gasoline. Because the hull shell plating provides one or more of the tank sides, and internal tank members can double as hull stiffening members, such tanks can save material and add capacity without taking up more room.
First, tanks might be of such a size or located in such a position that welding tight seams all around the perimeter is difficult if not impractical. Second, because full welds are required, there is a greater chance of heat buildup and ultimate hull plating distortion.
Finally, special consideration must be given at the intersections of tank ends, hull stiffening members, and internal tank baffles when required.
Attempting to fit and weld tank ends tightly around stiffeners that pass through the tank is tedious if not impossible. Instead, hull stiffeners should stop at tank ends, with similar members cut and fitted inside, or with internal baffles installed in line with such stiffeners as substitutes and to maintain continuity. Conversely separate tanks built outside the hull are physically easier to manipulate during assembly and welding, easier to test and assure integrity, easier to repair or replace, and not as likely to suffer damage in a collision.
Aluminum tank thickness is sometimes shown as a function of tank capacity such as the following:. To 50 Gals:. However, for practical purposes, most tanks should be at least. Thicker tanks also require less stiffening, and since plating material is usually suitable, no special thinner stock need be ordered as might be implied from the above list. Also provide striker plates or doublers on the bottom under sounding tubes if being used to prevent damage to the inside of the tank. All tank tops should be canted, sloped, or cambered so condensation or moisture will drain off the tops.
Tanks can be made out of the same material used for the hull plating , , etc. Special computer-aided design programs coupled with numerically-controlled cutting equipment have made it possible to literally pre-cut all the components of a metal boat to precise size and shape in kit form ready for final welding assembly. However, for successful results, a skilled boat designer familiar with the material and fabrication techniques, along with the ability to operate the software to within exacting tolerances is a prerequisite.
Otherwise, as they say, a miss can be as good as a mile. If one major component is not spot-on, you could waste a lot of costly metal quickly and perhaps assemble a boat that could be so inaccurate as to suffer severely performance-wise.
But done right, the system has inherent appeal since such boats should be easier and faster to assemble. Is this technology suitable for the do-it-yourselfer building just one boat? It depends. The ability to provide such a technologically-advanced product does not come cheap. For the production builder, the higher design and development costs will be amortized over a great number of boats. And the labor savings would no doubt make up the investment manifold over time.
Second, facilities for pre-cutting metal boats are currently far and few between, and not all have equal capabilities and expertise when it comes to boats. Third, if a do-it-yourselfer is not near such a facility assuming a design is available , shipping costs can be prohibitive on just a single unit.
Finally, although there are some designs available often because a builder gives up his design rights for one reason or another , design choices are minimal. A design where you build from scratch and cut out your own parts may take somewhat longer to build, but will be the low-cost alternative. And there are countless stock plans to choose from, many at a low cost. One-off Versus Production Building Methods � Similar Results, But Different Approaches Required The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting.
Framed Boat Advantages for Do-It-Yourself Builders Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone.
Some Considerations On Changing From Steel To Aluminum Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. You r my hero. You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads. Replies: 15 Views: 12, Katoh May 6, Replies: 6 Views: Biscuit Mar 21, Replies: 8 Views: Biscuit Nov 15, Using Wooden boat hull shape to make aluminium hull.
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