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Grand Banks 32 - Handmade Wooden Boat Model | SavyBoat
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The first thing was to compare the Amati kit with my previous build which was the Caldercraft Endeavour. I thiunk this is much better, with sharper CNC parts, and much better documentation. Having said that there is an annotation error on Page 1 as pictured below in GB The parts wont go in the places described for 6 and 7 but it is obvious where they should be The kit has a very awful paper print cabin floor covering which simulates the parquetry of the real boat.

While I am sacrificing some authenticity I am planking the cabin floor with leftover Endeavour decking which I will possibly stain to look like teak, or may leave it matt and blond to show up better inside the cabin when largely built in. Only day 2 and I have completed the frameup of the cabin The Amati parts go together so accurately that assembly is just so easy. Some very minor notes for future builders, I used a 0. It was OK but this was easy and did make a slightly better fit.

The limewood floor finished up OK. I could not work out exactly how to fit parts 21B and 22B I kept them in case they turn out to be important. Cabin structure nearing completion, started window trims and stairs to flybridge. Wish I had bought a mini mitre cutter. Framed up the flybridge, convex floor complicates it just a little and it took a couple of tries to get it right.

Then trial dry fit of mahogany inner cabin wall and full length outer cabin wall. All fitted pretty well. Masked the planked floor as will soon need to spray primer. Started to fill and spray undercoat the flybridge and cabin exteriors.

This is where it comes in the process, and I have to topcoat them as well. Makes it better to brush the topcoats rather than spray and ongoing work will need touchups and hard if sprayed.

These shots show 1 coat of sprayed undercoat on the cabins and the final one of flybridge has 3 undercoats and 1 topcoat. Main cabin control station today. All parts fitted nicely with very little fine tuning. Good quality kit.

Fastened it in place by gluing a corner post inside the guest cabin rather than risk glue on the cabin floor if glued under the structure itself. Also frameup for dinette and trial position. There are actually a few errors in the instructions related to wrong part numbers or positioning. I think I will post them here as I go as an aid to someone following after me. Experimenting with a new finish for the mahogany cabin furniture and walls I have always used Lifecolour LC Satin Clear.

It is closer to Matt than Satin I think. I am using Tamiya Semi-Gloss on this furniture and interior. It is never quite right I think this is definitely on the "gloss" side of semi gloss but it does give more life to the enclosed cabin so I am happy with it really. You can see in the next lot of photos that it is not matt.

Finished the cabin. I think ther helm chair is big out of scale but in the end put it in. Sometimes it takes a while to work out how to hold things while the glue sets. The cabin lining went on reasonably well These walls , need to finish flush with roof side frames To achieve this you can either plane off about 3mm for the full length from either ther bottom or top, in my case it had to come off the top because I did not trial fit the flybridge roof until later and it was too late to take it off the bottom.

The lower edge of these side walls sits on top of the boat floor not outside it. See next post but you can see here that I have removed the overhead instrument panel to enable roof fit. For me it stopped the roof from engaging with the locating tabs on part 19 so needed to be modified by removing the end tabs and attaching to the overhead beam in a lower position than instructed.

This shows it in the original position. Be sure to allow enough clear space below the lower interior mahogany finish panels and the bottom of the window frame so the frame will fit into the deck slot and the interior trim sits neatly on top of the dash panel.

Also need to trim the vertical intermediates at the top. First photo below shows a cutout area on the roof crossbeam 17 which suggests the windscreen should rest there I cant work out why the part 17 is shaped like that but the outer window frames rest on the small corner pieces which stick out from the ends of this beam.

If you cut the windows down to fit in this recess then they would never meet the side walls. The very small corner cutouts on the bottom corners of the outer frames accommodate the external side panels where they go past and should have their vertical sides aligned with the edger of the foredeck. The windscreen is tricky as you would expect, keep the tape attached right through installation top and bottom or you are likely to lose it.

The tape is not visible. In the end the windscreen fits pretty well against the cabin walls and the roof and foredeck. Just finished hand cutting mitres in the window frames of the exterior cabin sides. Why dont I own a small mitre cutter..? Still the corners are reasonably neat after a visit from No More Gaps. Painting with Admiralty Heritage paints Matt White. Love their paint, much better opacity than Tamiya or Lifecolour in my opinion.

Great work Mindi. Looks fantastic. Great detail. I wonder if a fine transparent grain filler could be used in some circumstances on interior timber work? Made the curtains and they are installed. Paint the cloth with dilute PVA and cut and fold when dry The external cabin sides went on surprisingly well considering how big a part they are.

The kit provides for white plastic angle strip to cover all the edges but I think it looks pretty ordinary so I am going to try to fair the edges well enough to just paint them without the edge strip.

If I can finish them well enough that is.? Once again must say the parts fit very well with very little trimming if any at all. Tried to make the rear planked step treads the way they recommend but I found the supplied beech frames uncharacteristically flimsy and poor, and cutting the planked paper backing to fit was very difficult.

In the end I planked the required shape on backing paper, trimmed it to shape, then built 2mm x 2mm blond wood edges mitred around the planking. Sounds more difficult but worked better for me. Thanks Cog I think changing from matte to semi gloss has made some of those things look better, although I do think this Tamiya semi gloss is a bit to shiny. Satin is probably where I should have stayed.

The Tamiya X35 is shinier in the pics as the semi gloss seems to reflect more, not so shiny in real life. Finished the front hatches and the rear steps, rear companionway hatch. I think the long edges are probably clean enough for me to omit the plastic angle 5mm x 5mm trim which they put around all edges. I just think they look better left alone I built strictly in the order of the instructions and so built the flybridge deck structure very early on.

I painted it above and it then sat finished for about three weeks before I needed to start fitting it out. Of course this sprung several join lines and opened up cracks which needed repair. The repair job has been successful but would be better avoided. I should not have allowed it to happen. IMHO the best approach would be to not build the flybridge structure at all until you are at the stage of fitting it out, which is after completion of the main cabin.

I think this is easily the best approach. If you really want to build it early and have it sit until you are ready to use it then be sure to store it with some weights keeping the floor flat and paint the floor top and bottom for equal transpiration to reduce warping The floor is only 1mm ply and easily bent.

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