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How to Build a Model Ship: 13 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow Back Bending ship model planking strips before assembly eliminates complicated clamping fixtures, saves time and money due to broken planks and assures neat, tight fitting joints. How it works: one row of adjustable nylon formers are arranged to the shape of the bend you need pins. On the 3 planks mark the calculated Model Ship Building Plank Bending 804 measurements from the graph. On the 1stplank start at the bottom of the plank, left hand end, mark up 4mm, at the position of bulkhead 7 mark up from the bottom mm, then at bulkhead position 6 the measurement is the full width of the plank. Take a ruler and join the dots. The following video clip is a short sequence from Modellers Shipyard DVD on How to Build a Model Ship (Planking). The complete DVD is over 3 hours of narrati.
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Great for model ships, military models, dioramas and more. See the diagram and chart below to select the size that's right for your project. Sold by the foot. Our Proportional Divider does it for you. When they make real boats they have to steam the wood in a steam box and than make a jig to form the proper curve and keep it there. In ship modeling we have the option of using a plank bender instead. A lot to think about. I wonder how the master model builders do it? The iron does not burn the wood unless you leave it there for a length of time.

It is designed to heat. When the wood starts to flex, take the iron away. I use a method of moving over the wood a little past the length of the bend. Thus, giving it a means of warming the the entire area. Use a few pieces of scape wood to get the technique down. Once it is warm, remove the iron but hold the piece in your hand at the desire shape until it cools. The thicker the wood, the more you want to use the back and forth method to distribute the heat and not over heat the same spot.

You can bend it and let it cool and then bend it again. The one on the paddlewheeler I slightly bent it a few times before getting to the proper bend. Steam is better than just soaking in hot water, but it is still using water to soften the wood.

Since the wood that ships were made of were very thick, there was no way they could use heat to penetrate wood that is two feet thick without it caughting fire first. In older times, some master modelers use ammonia or rubbing alcohol mixtures. I never tried that since I lived in an apartment when this method was popular and using it in apartment would have made me unpopular. I learned one trick you have to let the wood dry for the same amount of time you soak it to prevent damaging the wood.

See example at Model Expo's Constitution under documents and look under planking and see the ways a master exsplains planking the hull for more.

I agree with GaryM if you are careful you can use the wood burning tool. But around here electricity is very exspensive and would cost a small fortune to use. I found a hot water Tea pot works great for soaking the wood in hot steamy water. But the trick is to let it dry so the wood does not loose it's molecular structure.

I have worked with some old Island boat carpenters repairing hulls. They use a tubular shaped box made of wood to put the wood into and put a pipe in the end and force steam from a steamer into the box. We bent 4" thick Oak about 12' long and made ribs from oak trees we found in the forest here.

It was amazing how easy the wood bent , And ribs have to be bent very drastically. In short time we repaired a wooden fishing boat about 45 feet long. Using nothing but steam to bend the wood. Although I know some master model makers use alchol like GaryM said. My father had used a wood bending machine and burnt his hands and the wood often maybe they are better today than in 's. For me I like GaryM's way he makes a lot of sense.

But for others They will find using a steamer is the way to go and others will just soak them in water. So I just think each person needs to decide for them selves which is better for them. Since there are many ways to bend wood , :laughing-rofl: who knows as long as we get the wood bent and it doesn't break. The iron is a heating tool. It never gets hot enough to ignite the wood. Thus, I think it uses only about enough energy as a night light.

I agree that a wood burning tool uses a lot more. To actual etch the wood, it has to be very hot. To test the heating tool, I lick my figure and quickly touch the iron to know if it is hot enough. The sizzle lets me know. Joined Mar 22, Messages Points For pre-cut gun-ports, I just soak 'em in hot steaming water in the kettle for about 30 mins dry fit to the bulkheads and temporarily hold them in place with clothespins.

This is repeated several times until they follow the shape of the bulkheads. For regular planks, I'm too lazy for soaking so I just use the plank nipper with brute force and superglue :twisted: I personally find that the bending isn't too much the problem in planking, it's all the spiling, camfering and tapering of the planks that really bugs me.

When you get to advanced kits, the gunports are not precut. Some give you a template to put on the ship to mark where to cut. A few kits Model Ship Building Plank Bending Controls cut the ports as part of the planks to be appplied. Mantua does not give you any of this. For tapering the planks, I mark a few places along the plank and then put it in strip and hull clamp hold by Amati Art.

Joined Mar 25, Messages Points Is it possible to heat planks with a household iron? Also if using the wet method is the plank then glued on wet of let dry in shape and then glued on. See I really know nothing about wooden ships! Try making the jig yourself, it's not hard. A piece of wood and some nails in holes is all it takes. Make a lot of holes and put the nails where you need them. Haven't had time to do my homework today - sorry teachers!

I will try harder tomorrow. Funny really, I l always used to say that! Hi all, just though I would let you know that I have tried some of your solutions. I appreciate the jig bit but big bends are easy just with some round objects and a bit of weight. For the horrible small bends I am finding that, with the lime wood I give them a really long soak and then bending carefully with hands and thumb nails is working better than a manual plank bender.

The problem really with the small bits is that you can't put them in a jig so it seems some of them either need overbending so that when they relax they are about right or having a couple of goes at them until the bend is right. All the above is great advice for your query. The only part of your question which hasn't been addressed is:. For myself, at least, I have found that you cannot soak for too long. The wood will only take up so much water. As a slooooow modeller, I sometimes leave my planks soaking for days on end before using them.

Then, when I am ready, I'll select a single plank, quickly wipe it down, then bend using some of the methods listed above. Sometimes, if a plank is not fitting precisely, I'll pop it back in the soaking tub again for a day or so, then re-do the bend.

My preferred method is to clamp the newly bent plank into position on my model and allow it to dry completely before fixing it in place. No matter what general method you use to pre-bend a plank. Clamping it the exact spot you want to glue it while it's still wet, will give you a nearly net shaped plank for easy gluing.

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you.

We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck. Soaking, bending, gluing planks.

Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Posted February 27, Doing my first ever hull planking. Shenandoah by Corel. For planks that need bending: A how long should I soak them in water? C after bending I assume the board must dry thoroughly or else glue will not stick? Many thanks, Andy. Link to post Share on other sites.

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