Boat building - Wikipedia

Download free and public domain books on marine engineering, shipbuilding, ship design, ship calculation. Containing plain and comprehensive directions for the construction of canoes, rowing and sailing boats. A vade mecum of ship design for students, naval architects, shipbuilders and owners, marine superintendents, engineers and draughtsmen. A book of reference for ship owners, ship officers, ship and engine draughtsmen, marine engineers, and others engaged in the building and operating of ships.

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This document has been prepared on the basis of the author's practical experience of FRP boatbuilding in North America, Europe and the Developing World. It is the second Technical Paper within the series dealing with Fishing Boat Construction destined for fisheries officers and selected boatbuilders who want to develop their knowledge of various boatbuilding methods.

A practical illustrated description of the Parsons and Curtis marine steam turbines. A manual of marine steam turbine practice intended for the use of naval and mercantile marine engineer officers.

A book of complete building plans and instruction, which contains all necessary information for the amateur who wants to build his own boat. Including a series of photographs showing the progressive steps of construction together with an appendix on electric welding.

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Originally a shipbuilding tool. The futtocks were scarfed, bolted, and fastened with treenails Treenail trunnel Commonly pronounced "trunnel" or "trunnels"; wooden spikes or pins, often made of locust wood. Shipbuilders hoisted the finished frames into place one by one, atop the keel, forming the basic skeleton of the ship.

To strengthen the skeleton, a second keel, called a keelson Keelson A second keel, built over the keel, on top of the floor timbers of the frames, to strengthen the vessel's skeleton. As additional structure was added to the ship, it became ready for planking Planking Lengths of wood fastened to the outside of a vessel's Wooden Ship Building Techniques Online frames forming the outside skin, and attached to the beams to form the deck.

Long planks were bent length wise around the hull Not only did they have to be cut correctly to fit the hull, they had to have their edges prepared for caulking Caulk caulking, corking To drive oakum or cotton into the seams of a vessel's deck or sides, to make it watertight. After the oakum is driven in with a caulking iron or mallet, the seam is "payed" or coated with hot pitch or other compound to prevent the oakum from rotting.

When all of the deck beams were in place, ship's carpenters laid the deck planking. Another type of planking is called the ceiling Ceiling The inside planking of a ship. Despite its name, the ceiling acts as a floor to the cargo hold, and it provides additional longitudinal strength for the hull.

Caulking makes the hull watertight. Oakum Oakum A caulking material made of tarred rope fibers. Named as such as the Phillipines were a primary source for this rot-resistant natural fiber rope, the most important maritime rope material before the advent of petroleum-based fibers like nylon and polypropylene. The fibers are usually tarred as a preservative. The caulker drove a few strands into the seam with Wooden Ship Building Plans Limited a caulking iron Caulking iron Used to drive caulking material into the gaps between the vessel's planking.

The mallet made a knocking sound that told the caulker how far the oakum was in the seam. After the seam was fully caulked, it was payed Pay payed verb To pour hot pitch into a deck or side seam after it has been caulked with oakum, in order to prevent the oakum from getting wet. Also, to dress a mast or yard with tar, varnish, or tallow, or to cover the bottom of a vessel with a mixture of sulphur, rosin, and tallow or in modern days, an anti-fouling mixture.

Ship joiners Joiner joinery A carpenter who finishes interior woodwork. Joinery is the interior woodwork. They built and finished the deck houses, the galley Galley joinery The kitchen on board a vessel. Read more was often very elaborate and required highly-skilled joinery work. Painters applied coatings to protect the wood.

After the ship was launched, the crew became painters, for painting never ended. Sometimes a vessel had a figurehead Figurehead A carved wooden statue or figure attached to the bow under the bowsprit of a vessel. The figurehead was mounted on the bow Bow Forward part or head of a vessel. While the hull was being built, spar Spar A round timber or metal pole used for masts, yards, booms, etc.

After the Civil War, most spar timber came from the West Coast, which had a large supply of Sitka spruce and Douglas fir.

After squaring and tapering the timber, spar makers shaped the spar into an eight-sided timber and finished it round.

Shipbuilders used shear legs Shear legs Wooden Ship Building Techniques Ppt shears A temporary structure of two or three spars raised at an angle and lashed together at the point of intersection.

Riggers Rigging The term for all ropes, wires, or chains used in ships and smaller vessels to support the masts and yards standing rigging and for hoisting, lowering, or trimming sails to the wind running rigging. Running rigging lines move through blocks and are not wormed, parceled, or served.

They are wormed, parceled, and served for water-proofing. To protect it from rot, rigging was given a waterproof cover, a process called worming Worming Running a small line up a rope, following the lay of the line. Running rigging Running rigging The part of the rigging that includes the ropes that move the rig: move yards and sails, haul them up and lower them, move masts, and hoist weights. There are many kinds of blocks.

Blocks with ropes run through them form a tackle. Then the rigger set up all of the spars, preparing them to receive sails, attaching iron work and blocks, and running all of the rest of the lines. A ship was constructed on large wooden blocks and posts called shores Shore A prop or beam used for support during vessel construction.

Before launching, ship carpenters built a cradle Cradle In shipbuilding and maintenance, the structure that supports a vessel upright on land and in which a vessel can be moved. Wood does have some distinct virtues. It is light, even compared to modern building materials, and in terms of tensile strength is stronger per pound than common electrical-grade fiberglass. In terms of stiffness, it is stronger per pound than S glass, E-glass, and Kevlar.

In terms of its total structural efficiency, it is better than all of these materials, including carbon fiber. One big problem with wood, however, is that certain lifeforms like to eat it. Various fungi can infest and consume it, causing what is known as dry rot.

Marine borers like the Teredo worm, or boring insects like carpenter ants and termites, can also chew their way through a boat pretty quickly. Wood also rots when it gets too wet, is easily ignited, and is soft, with poor abrasion resistance. Structurally, in one important sense, it is deficient in that it is much less dense than other materials and thus takes up a lot of space.

A wood hull must normally be much thicker than an equivalent glass hull, and its interior structural parts must also be larger. Indeed, wood cannot be used at all to make certain small parts that carry great loads such as bolts, tie-rods, and rigging wire simply because it is too soft and too fat to fit.

Perhaps the biggest advantage wood has over any other material, especially when it comes to building boats, is that it is inherently romantic. For this reason alone, it is likely someone somewhere will always be building wooden cruising boats, and that other people will always be sailing them. This is the most traditional method of building a wood boat.

The principle is simple, though the details are complex. The fundamental structure of a plank-on-frame vessel is defined by a keel, which is the horizontal backbone of the hull; a more vertical stem, which forms the bow; and a vertical sternpost plus, in the case of many yachts with long overhangs, a much less vertical horn timber that terminates in the transom , which forms the back of the boat.

On deep-keel vessels, especially on sailboats, there is also often what is called deadwood fastened beneath the keel. The forward section is normally inhabited by a solid casting of metal ballast, preferably lead, that is fastened to the bottom of the boat. A full-keel plank-on-frame sailboat under construction.

You can see both the deadwood and the lead ballast down low Photo courtesy of Rockport Marine. To help support the hull, lateral stringers are installed inside the frames. The skin of the hull consists of a series of planks fastened to the outside of the frames.

These planks may be laid on the frame with their edges slightly overlapping, which is known as clinker, or lapstrake, construction. This is often done with smaller boats, but hardly ever with larger boats, as the many ridges formed where the planks overlap greatly increases wetted surface area.

Alternatively, planks can be laid on the frame edge to edge, creating a fair, smooth surface, which is known as carvel construction.

Open seams on a carvel hull awaiting caulking. Note the tufts of cotton hanging out where caulking is underway Photo courtesy of Rockport Marine. The deck of the boat, meanwhile, is supported by a series of transverse deck beams, the ends of which are fastened to lateral shelves installed along the inside of the hull at the top of the frames. Traditionally, the deck consists of planking fastened to the deck beams with all seams, again, carefully caulked.

Another common way to seal decks, often used on yachts, is to cover the planking with painted canvas. These days, however, many wood decks are simply good-quality marine plywood sealed with epoxy. Even from this abbreviated description it should be clear this is a labor-intensive way to build a boat. Much skill is also required. Just selecting wood to build with is an art, as there are numerous criteria to meet.

The best wood should be cut only in winter to minimize the retention of moisture and microorganisms.

It should then be air-dried in a climate-controlled environment for as long as possible�many months at a minimum. The lumber should also be carefully milled to produce planks and pieces with the wood grain properly aligned to carry anticipated loads in the boat. Even if you use the best fasteners silicon bronze screws and bolts are preferred, though Monel is technically superior what ultimately limits the strength of a plank-on-frame boat is not the wood it is made from, but the fasteners holding it together.

This weakness manifests itself in various ways. First, because they are made from many different pieces, and in particular because so many plank seams are permanently submerged, plank-on-frame boats are apt to leak. Many are continually taking on water when afloat, and normally the only variable is the rate at which water is coming aboard. Invariably this increases when conditions get worse. I once sailed across the North Atlantic aboard a plank-on-frame schooner�one time we almost sank; the other time we did though, fortunately, this was in a river on the other side.

Plank-on-frame boats also often have deck leaks. The problem here is that wood in the deck is constantly swelling and shrinking as it gets wet and dries out. If the deck has open seams, all this expanding and contracting is apt to create gaps somewhere. Even with painted canvas covering the seams, or with a solid plywood deck sealed in epoxy, there are again many fasteners securing hardware, each offering a potential route for water intrusion.

Other structures sprouting from the deck�deckhouses, hatches, raised gunwales, etc. World-famous small-boat cruiser Larry Pardey waters the deck of his boat, Taleisin , to keep the planks swollen tight. Larry is a master boatwright he built Taleisin himself and maintains his boats scrupulously. Finally, plank-on-frame boats can be a bear to maintain.

All that wood, above the water and below, needs to be either painted or varnished on a regular basis. Leaks must be policed and stanched if possible. Moist areas in the structure must be sought out, constantly monitored for rot, and replaced if the rot gets out of hand. Most, however, like Moitessier, would much prefer to just go sailing.

Plank-on-frame boats still have a strong cult following and a relatively large number of older wooden yachts are sailed and maintained by devoted owners.

But the most exciting wooden boatbuilding these days is done with composite wood-epoxy construction. The key ingredient is modern epoxy, which is not only a tenacious adhesive, but is also highly elastic and nearly impermeable to water. Epoxy also protects the wood from hungry creatures that want to eat it.

Furthermore, a wood-epoxy hull forms a one-piece monocoque structure that cannot leak unless punctured. In most cases, to improve abrasion and impact resistance, the hull and deck are also sheathed in one or more layers of fiberglass cloth.

The result is a boat with many of the virtues of fiberglass, with the added benefits of built-in insulation, plus all the fuzzy romantic feelings inspired by a genuine wood finish. There are many ways to construct a wood-epoxy boat.





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