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Custom Aluminum Boat Trailers at Affordable Prices Each trailer is designed to fit manufacturers hull designs for specific load distribution. Single Axle. Tandem Axle. Tri Axle. Aluminum I-Beam construction with tongue wrap. Stainless bolts and nuts used in main frame. Aluminum cross members, yellow zinc u-bolts, front V-bar.
Each trailer comes with guide-ons with PVC - not shown. Submersible LED sidelights and wiring. If you are fishing skinny than this is the boat trailer package for you. Our Flats Trailer Package and out Skiff Trailer Package gives you the chance to launch and retrieve your boat in the even shallowest of ramps. Don't let your trailer limit your fishing. Whether you are a bass master or just enjoy tossing a worm on the weekends, an AlumaTrek Bass Boat Trailer will get you out on the water without any worries.
A Trailer built with our Bass B oat Package is a custom-built all-aluminum boat trailer that is built for your boat and your budget. You'll be makin' waves and catchin' rays on your pontoon.
You just need to rely on our trusted Aluminum Pontoon Boat Trailers to get out on the water. Our Pontoons Trailers come standard 14" radials, vinyl wrapped bunks to protect your aluminum pontoons, and a pontoon bow stop and ladder.
Find out more about how our multihull boat trailers can get you where you need to go. Our custom aluminum bow stops and tunnel guides are designed for your boat. Each trailer is built using your boats specs, so launch and load with ease on an AlumaTrek. Come Build A Pontoon Boat Trailer Card see how our aluminum airboat trailers can get your blow boats going. Our Aluminum Airboat Trailers are rugged and built to get you there. Included in our Standard Saltwater Package. A standard feature on all of our trailers.
Aluminum Bunk Brackets on both front and rear bunks reduce the chance for rust and deterioration. This allows our trailers to maintain their structural strength making our trailer outlast any steel galvanized brackets.
All of our trailer come standard with LED Lights with a sealed wiring harness with an integrated sound that is run the entire length of the trailer. The boat sits on keel rollers on the main beam drawbar, and above the mudguards.
It is supported by chine rollers at the back, and is very secure when strapped down. The frame which holds the chine rollers and supports the axle, springs and wheels, is secured to the main beam by U-bolts, and can be shifted between two keel rollers 14ft Aluminum Boat Trailer Update to adjust for the different sizes of boat.
The winch post at the front is also fi xed to the beam by U-bolts and can be adjusted for the position of the boat bow. The trailer will run easily from bach to beach. When you want to travel on the road, the rear lights number plate and Warrant of Fitness sticker can be placed on a light board strapped to the back of the boat. Otherwise you have to fi x lights on metal arms on either side at the back, and that can limit the width of the boat you can get in.
The material is all steel, although the construction is plain and, in total, not too Aluminum Boat Trailer Construction heavy. The cross members are made of 50x50mm angle iron, and the side rails of the frame are 40x40mm RHS. The mudguards are welded directly onto the side rails. The axle is made of 40x40mm RHS. Following normal practice, I tack-weld the parts fi rst, moving through the whole trailer to ensure that it is all square and all the measurements agree. When the trailer has been fi nished and assembled I do a full weld on everything I tack-welded.
The components that I can dismantle, I take to the bench to weld. Rubber is better for boat trailers because of the contact with water.
This arrangement is better than a lip seal, because the water pressure comes on the rubber seal and closes it effectively. You could go to wheelbarrow hubs and wheels if you want to � the boat the trailer will carry is fairly light. The smaller wheels would be good enough, and would be okay if you were going only from bach to beach, or not very far.
If you want to travel on a public road you have to get it warranted, of course. The way I have built this design is up to warrant standard. The springs come with three leaves, for a kg rating, but I have taken one leaf off because I feel that the springs are too heavy.
Ordinary domestic trailers need stronger springs as they can carry all sorts of different weights. If some people want to load the boat up with gear when towing it for the holidays, they might like to keep on all the leaves that come with the springs as standard kit.
Begin with the 3. Pre-drill a hole in the end of the 50x50mm RHS for the safety chain to be bolted into the drawbar, not welded. Mark the holes through the coupling onto a mm-long piece of 80x10mm flat steel and tack-weld this coupling plate onto one end of the drawbar. Square up the coupling plate which is tack-welded. Then put the main beam on two jacks or similar supports so that you can work on the frame.
With the frame on the main drawbar or beam, I can get the measurements correct all round for frame, axle and springs. Mark the mm-long angleiron cross-members at the centre. Square up the angle iron on the main bar. Mark and then drill holes on either side of the centre point to fi t the U-bolts which will clamp the front and back angle iron pieces on either side of the 50mm drawbar. The back angle iron then has four holes drilled on either side of the main drawbar for the chine rollers.
The extra holes allow the chine roller assembly to be moved to suit different boat hulls. Measure 50mm in from each end of the angle iron, and then mark the holes using the fi xing plate which comes as a kit with the chine support roller assembly. This is a U-fi xture on a long bar that is clamped by the plates through the holes in the angle iron. The distance between the front and back cross-members in the frame is determined by the length of the springs.
In this trailer, the measurement is mm length from front spring hanger to back slipper. The RHS is placed in-between the angle iron cross-members to hold the angle iron in place.
I move the RHS out 20mm or so sideways away from the mounting brackets for the mudguard.
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03.12.2020 at 13:50:52 It is different from its larger sister as singhy.
03.12.2020 at 21:39:45 Protect your aluminum pontoons, and a pontoon seats are very important, but your gauges.