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AGCO provides overall lowest costs of vehicle ownership. We do this by providing extremely high quality automotive service, following the theories and practices of Dr. Edwards Deming. Does any one know of any places that can bend small radius tube or bar?

I am designing a backpack and need a frame built out of mm steel tube or rod. Preferably a small shop because I just need one frame for now so that I can build and test the prototype.

Working with PVC pipe in tight spaces and around plumbing structures can be difficult. If you just need to make a simple bend, you can do so without using elbows or fittings. I got my 1st boat a few weeks ago. PVC is cheap, common, easy to work, and easy to join. Only problem is, it's kinda ugly, mostly because it only comes in white, gray, black, and clear.

This depends on the construction of the boat and may require a little imagination. I was able to bend a piece of steel that allows for a quick, slide on installation and removal. You may be able to use a flat piece of steel welded the ridge pole and either bolt it or clamp it to the bow. Again, the length of the boat plays a big role and whether the tarp will be exposed to a winter snow load.

If you have too few supports, you run the risk of the tarp ripping under the weight of the snow. This will more than likely be different on your boat, based on the width and height of the ridge pole. If the dimensions of your boat are similar and you think these plans will work, then, by all means, use them.

They are mainly here to help you get started. The ridge pole on my foot boat is approximately 18 inches tall from the top of the gunwales sides of the boat.

The width of the boat is 66 inches across. The ridge pole on this boat is 15 feet long from bow to stern, including the bend at the bow. I have three ridge pole supports and recommend that as a minimum for a foot boat. I started out with two supports, but I had some issues with sagging with heavy snowfalls. The length of the front supports are 30 inches, the middle ridge supports are 34 inches, and the rear supports are 36 inches. These measurements are from the ridge pole to the gunwales. The angle between the supports will change slightly from support to support because of the normal widening of the boat, between the gunwales, as you move from the front to back.

Each support will need to be custom-fit to its location. I left mine long enough to help cover the motor too. That helps keep more of the rain and snow out of the boat too. This can be done with cardboard boxes, blocks of wood, and a little duct tape. Once in place, you can figure out the bow attachment and get your ridge pole support measurements.

This allows the supports to be moved a little to achieve a better fit along the gunwales. The length will be determined by the measurements you get in Step 4.

Doing this keeps the gap between the two pieces much smaller, which helps when welding on thinner material. It also gives you a larger weld connection area between the two pieces. A larger weld area adds more strength. Then grind the end of the ridge pole support to fit snugly onto it and weld the two pieces together. Once you get the first one fit-up and in place, then work on the other side.

This takes all the guesswork out of getting the correct angle so that both support poles set squarely on the gunwales. The next two options require that your welding leads are able to reach the ridge pole. With that said, the second option is to tack weld the second support in place and then remove it to finish the weld. And the third option is you can complete the weld in place. There are three things to be aware of if you choose to make any welds in place.

Number 1 never weld with a gas can or hose in the boat. Welding produces sparks that can easily ignite gas vapors or burn through hoses. The second is to protect any upholstery and carpeting in the boat. Welding sparks can damage those surfaces as well. I used the first option and it worked fine. With all the ridge pole supports in place you can remove the temporary blocking and your boat cover support system is complete. By using the right welder, with the correct amperage setting, and using the proper technique anyone can do it with a little practice.

Below are a few basic tips and techniques that will help you get the job done with a little practice. The heat setting refers to the amperage, or current flow, produced by the welder. If the heat is too high, it will burn right through the light wall EMT conduit. A wire brush works well for this. Make sure there are no greases or oils on the metal either. You also want to make sure your ground clamp connection is clean and tight as well.

Make sure any glowing red metal has cooled off before striking your next arc. This helps dissipate the heat more evenly and helps reduce burning through. We have a blog article on welding holes in lawn mower decks that can walk you through repairing those holes. You will benefit by taking a couple of scrap pieces of conduit and make some practice welds using some of these technics.

On home projects like these, you can smooth out any imperfections with a grinder and weld them again. As time goes on your overall skill will improve.

I like using a combination of ropes or ratchet straps and bungee straps to secure the cover here in Michigan. The ropes and ratchet straps hold the tarp taunt even under heavy snows.

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