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Copyright Issues Hollywood. Complaint Notice Procedures for Copyright Owners The following elements must be included in your copyright infringement complaint notice: 1. I think that will help you accomplish what you are looking to do much quicker than attempting to hack the FTDI chip's firmware. Hello, is there a way to test if this device is working correctly without connecting to the USB port?

Thanks for the help. If you are worried about a short on the board, you could use a multimeter to look for continuity between VCC and Gnd lines on the board.

In terms of seeing if the chip can still pass data correctly, you will eventually need to plug it in. I haven't heard of any FTDI boards damaging a USB port even when they are burned out, but some of our customers may have had a different experience. It works great in programming mode, makes it easier. Using this board it auto resets and erases that data.

One way around that is not connecting the RST pin. Any other way around that other than bending the pin? I still want to use the auto reset at times, I suppose for this project I could remove the pin on the arduino and use the onboard reset as needed.

In answering my own question. Can this board be used to program an Arduino Mega ? I'm looking for a solution to allow me to program the arduino at about 20 feet.

I've tried connecting this board to the arduino, at a much shorter distance, and I was not able to program the mega. Yeah I have been wondering the same thing, as I can get it working on the older Arduinos, but cant seem to get it working on the Uno or Mega. I understand that they don't have the FTDI chip but does that mean I don't need a board like this to program them on the serial ports? This is probably a n00b question, but if I solder the 5V jumper, does the pin labeled 3.

That's correct. Just make sure you switch the jumper properly by cutting the trace to the 3. I used some 6-pin ribbon cable to connect the two together. Great product, but it would be nice if it was a little thinner. Left floating the default is 3. This means the interface signal are at 3.

Will this be corrected on a later version? This is probably why some people are having trouble and why 1K pullups help. I ordered this, and the silkscreen was off. Not a big deal, but you should fix the 3V3 label and the pics on your site. Thanks for the quick reply!! Only needed mA and of course thats more than an Arduino can provide on a single pin.

In that case, since its so damned handy -- And with so many cellphones using a USB device of some kind and the associated AC to USB converters lying around -- why not work up a proper datasheet and hawk it as a feature? To everyone getting not in sync and protocol errors while uploading to a breadboard arduino, try putting 1k pullups on the tx and rx pins of the atmega Worked for me. I was also having a devil of a time getting this to work with my breadboard Arduino.

The nF capacitor in series with DTR worked for me too. Thank You!! Hi all, Thanks for the idea. Can you please tell me specifically what you connected the ends of the nF cap to? From DTR to? Thanks in advance! Getting the same "not in sync" error.

You know what really helps? For what it's worth, I am now able to program my 5v arduion pro without any additional caps or resistors, just plugged it straight into the breakout. Your capacitor idea was what solved my problem. Mine too works without the pull-up resistors. The Capacitor Trick worked for me. I was also working with a custom Arduino, but I was past the breadboard stage and actually had PCB's made.

I was about to give up when I saw your post. Works like a charm. I was curious about this too. Thanks for the link! To answer your question, we get most of our parts from high-volume bulk suppliers, and thus the part numbers we use wouldn't be of use to someone trying to buy one or two. However, we DO try to provide full value and footprint information in our Eagle files e. I disagree with not providing part numbers for OSHW.

The part number SFE used might be needed for more than just replicating the product. Someone may want to find out how many times the connector can be mated and un-mated. The contact material would need to be known for Diy Model Boat Kits 5g someone that might want to use the board in an application that might cause deterioration of the contacts or those mated to them.

This is just a connector, other components used in a design have far more caveats ie: capacitor voltage and temperature derating that would not be evident from "0. The reality is, that just like a designer has no idea how anyone will be using their designs, they also have no idea how anyone will use the information about their design. Basically, some versions of udev misidentify every device that uses an FTDI chip as one particular device, and attaches the tty to the powerd daemon.

To fix the problem, you just need to comment out the udev rule for that device see the bug. Or, wait until your distro pushes udev with the updated rules. The picture shows the 5v version and the output on the header is marked "5v".

I bought 2 5v and 2 3. The 5v units are labe "5v" next to the USB socket, but the output is marked 3. Color me confused. With our current silkscreen printing, the 5v boards show 3. However, double checking with a multimeter is never a bad idea! If I also connect RAW input on the Mini to 12v it goes to the on-board regulator and makes 5v, so I'm now feeding the Mini 5v from both sources.

Is this a problem? Bullet dodged. You should be able to use it to program the Pro boards, but you will likely not be able to plug it directly onto the board, like you can with the FTDI basics. It will simply be a matter of running jumper wires correctly between the two devices.

Just got one yesterday, and it does not seem to be powering up at all. I soldered a 6 pin header onto my Arduino Pro Mini, lined up the pins, plugged it in, plugged it into the computer and I tried two separate cable to rule that out. I plugged my Duemilanove in and it still works.

Am I forgetting something? Yup, had the same problem and just figured its the FTDI connector, I have to bend it to make a connection, so I just removed it and soldered my own connector on When you plug it into the computer, do the lights on the FTDI even come on?

If not, you might have a bad board. Contact cservice sparkfun. Hi there, Is there any manual on how to switch from 5V to 3. I don't know what is the "trace" and where to cut, but have enough knowledge to solder the pad ;- Also howto reverse it as i only need the 3.

Doesn't Arduino come with that interface on board? What would this be used for? Likely I'm an idiot for not being able to figure this out but is there a non PCB ie.

Any explanation? Is there any difference between these two? Hi, are the schematics and Eagle Files available under a specific license or are they just for reference? I believe there is no smd jumper This is exactly what I did. It's a fine trace, so cut carefully, and small pads, so make sure to use a fine tip when jumping them. I think I would have preferred not to have the 5V wired up either, but leave it up to the user to add the jumper to either 5V or 3.

One thing I do wish though was for the RTS line to be accessible to add a auto reset capacitor. Im having problems getting this to work with Windows 7 x Seems like I can install the driver okay but Windows give me an "Cannot start" error and "The device malfunctioned Does that mean I got a dud? Can't test it with Windows XP right now as I don't have access to it.

I've tried Linux but I'm getting error trying to install the driver using the "make" command as described on the FTDI installation guide. Could any body give your comments on how to carry out this task?

Ah, can you give us an idea when these are going to be back in stock? Posted this over on the cable, too, so don't shout spam It would be faster Just saying These are cool too, but you caould add it along side. The speed doesn't come from the ATMega8u2, it comes from the Arduino booloader running at baud. You can use this to upload at kbps too: just burn the Uno bootloader to your target device.

You also get another 1kB of program memory. I'm confused! For a dollar more , I can get a board that's equivalent to this one post-modification, but can't be modified to run at 5V. So, why would one buy the 3. Relatedly, I'd be happy to pay a buck more to get this board with a good, old-fashioned jumper block instead of the solder jumper.

If those SJ pads were properly spaced, you could use half of a PRT and keep the whole thing in its current rectangular prism space. That approach would allow the user the choice of soldering a voltage selection jumper, wire wrapping one on, or sliding one on.

BTW: Is the part pictured on the catalog page for the correct one? According to both the text and the datasheet, the pin spacing is 0. Therefore, a six pin connector should be 0. The one in the photographs appears substantially larger than that. Even using the same format female header as is being used now, facing the other direction, would allow selection by inserting a wire jumper or a jumper plug.

A 90 degree usb cable to go with this would be great too. I spent 4 months trying to update an minimosd with no luck ,if failed to talk to bootloader sounds familiar to you then you need this breakout board.

Don't think a China board will do it. On one last desperate attempt I decided to go with a Quality product and I trust SpakFun and their products, service, and support.

In a few days the board was in my mailbox and you know what, it worked the first time! I was able to salvage 4 osd's that I thought were bricked. Hardly my first purchase. I now have at least two at home and work. I remove the six pin header and run wires to a JST connector, and matching JST connectors to my Arduino's and have reliable polarity safe connections.

To improve this board further I would like to see edge mounted LEDs that I could see from either side. Usually the thing is upside down the way that I use it. When I put together a DC boarduino from adafruit, I knew that it wouldn't work with USB directly, and didn't quite understand what this guy does until I just plugged it in! And it worked without any real fiddling. I also used the 3. Never used Arduino boards before, ordered this with a couple of Pro Mini boards for a project.

All worked just as builder described and has opened a new part of the hobby for me. Good solid design. One request Micros are more common and rated for more insertions. I used this to connect with an Atmega that I had set up on a breadboard. It is very nice that you do not have to manually reset the in order to load a Sketch, and the TX and RX led's allow you to visually confirm that the Sketch is uploading.

I used this configuration, and it worked on the first try! I bought three arduino pro units and one of these, and it worked great.

The driver installed easily on windows 7, and programming was a snap. Very quickly I had replicated my programs and saved all the space and expense compared to an UNO or other full up board. Glad I made the purchase!!! There once was a breakout from Sparkfun.

So lovely! I went out and bought one. From host to Arduino, How nicely the bits flow, With nary a hint of dysfunction. After that, worked perfectly :. I designed a programmer board around the arduino mini pro to program a break light flasher board designed around an attiny Out of the box hooked it up and it worked.

Thanks sparkfun Roadrunner. Ensure you have a quality USB cable. A poor one rebooted my computer. I love-idiot proofed stuff like this!! Keep up the good work. I mostly use it with Arduino type devices, and it works just like I'd want.

Plug it in, it powers the device and lets me program it and run the serial monitor. No fuss, works transparently. This is my first attempt at this Arduino stuff. I'm using this with an Arduino Pro, and everything worked first time. The auto reset works fine, and the serial leds are nice for verifying that everything is working. Price is very reasonable.

So far I'm not able to "Upload", which is actually "Download! Have loaded the FTDI drivers. Single T replied on July 8, You can also check device manager to ensure that they device is enumerating a com port for you. If you see an issue with the com port, then you may have drivers that are malfunctioning or have some other issue causing interruption with the device.

Uninstall the driver and reinstall. If the Com port and the loop back are successful, then you can begin to trouble shoot your Arduino setup as the FTDI device should be operating properly.

No problems at all. Immediate id with Windows 8. Excellent product. These are great little adapters for the smaller Arduino boards that save space by not including the programming hardware.

Work just like the bigger boards, no difference, easy! It worked great for that purpose. If you purchase a Minim OSD, you will definitely need this to configure the flight screen. Bought this to flash some arduino pro-minis and it works fine.

This thing is tiny, so don't lose it. A few years ago, I tried to get into microcontroller programming. I tried the J-Stamp and the C-Stamp and had all sorts of problems. Those boards required a serial connection, but they didn't have any means of making that connection over USB. My laptop didn't have a serial port, so an adapter was necessary. I bought two of those, and neither of them worked very well.

It was frustrating enough that I decided to stop playing with microcontrollers. Then I decided to get my first Arduino. I stupidly tried getting the Arduino Pro Mini the one that doesn't have onboard USB , and discovered that I would need more hardware to program the thing.

I plugged it in, drivers were installed, and everything just worked and continues to work! It's a new source of fun and I'm very grateful! The first one I received didn't work didn't show up as device in Linux.

Even though I only found out months later you know, side-projects , SparkFun was so kind to send a replacement. Still working like a charm! Recognized by Windows 7, no issues, installed as COM 6.

The 6 pin Female Header is now right on the board which makes it more stable. I bought this to program a Pro Mini 5V for a project with some high school students. I has done the jub admirably from day 1. If you've graduated past your first Arduino to just about any other platform or package, you're going to want this handy breakout around.

It's the most reliable and easy way to load code. The Rock7 iridium module page has a link to this product suggesting that it can be used with the iridium module. While it's electrically true, the connector is on the wrong side of the board and it will hit the modem module and can't be connected unless you bend the pins on the modem board.

Buy a standard 6-pin FTDI cable; it'll fit and there's probably less stress on the expensive iridium board. It works perfectly to give the flexibility to connect to the PI or PC.

We just started using it for the interface board for AnArduino board with a LoRa radio. We believe this will be a good board to use in PocketQube satellites. Very cool for building things that will be permanent and you don't want to tie up your main arduino, and its smaller.

Worked pefectly, programmed easily. This is a great little board for programming the Pro Mini boards, and it is very easy to use. Great job, SparkFun! Used this to program my arduino pro. If you solder on DC barrel power jack on to the pro, this breakout won't fit anymore. It's a couple of millimeters to wide. You then need to use female to male jumper wire. Off course I did not have this at the time, so I had to desolder the barrel jack, ruining my pro in the process.

Other than that, works like a charm. Bought this to use with Simblee. Works perfectly. There is a problem with the current Mac OS but works perfectly in Windows. I ended up putting in a Windows virtualizer in the latest Mac OS to make it work.

That seems to be the best solution Works great, just what I wanted. This has got to be the most obscure item for quads made right now. Joe W. The breakout does the job. Purchases the breakout board for use with some Sparkfun Pro Mini's for a work project.

Other than needing to ID the board in the Arduino environment as a nano, the board works flawlessly. I really like this ftdi. It is the first one I have owned, and it works as advertised. I didn't have to find extra drivers for it for windows, or linux openSUSE. I bought it to work with my arduino pro mini. They should put in the description or somewhere that if you are on Linux and are having trouble uploading to anything that you need to add yourself to the group dial out.

It is extremely simple in openSUSE, just go into yast and in groups. It worked like a charm! It will be the best programing component I ever owned and I would be lost without it. Thank you SparkFun! PROS: Small, easy to use. CONS: Driver hard to install. The FTDI basic board worked just as it was supposed to. I'm not into arduino or any type of custom electronics, but I do build rc planes and multi rotors.

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