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Some pics attached to give you an idea of the curvature:. Brands01 , Jan 29, With marine grade it shouldn't be. Usually something that thick is built up of layers. I would say that 2 layers of 9 mm for the sides and 3 layers of 6mm for the bottom, but I would add an additional 6mm layer, just to be sure. The biaxial glass stratification can be correctly checked.

Now, it is YOUR boat. Yet another one. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The bottom has the most curvature, so perhaps 3 layers of 6mm, and a Fiberglass Resin For Boat Building Quality layer of 12mm and 6mm for the sides, as per Steve's suggestion - although I have already rounded up Dave Gerr's scantling number and some of the bulkead and stringer dimensions, so I don't think I will need an extra layer on the bottom.

I don't think the curvature at the bow is so extreme that I will need to cold mold strips of ply, but I suppose that is always a fall back position. Interesting that the guys at boat plans online build up their panel thickness with bi-axial glass - I was wondering how they acheived the required thickness.

In terms of laminating layers of plywood on top of each other, is the best method to drill small holes at regular intervals all over the plywood panel and squeeze until the thickened epoxy oozes out? Brands01 , Jan 30, You might also want to check out the kurt hughes construction video- they do some massive epoxy ply layups on it with full sheets. I like that forward raised deck style of vessel, looks nice to me Regards from Jeff.

At the link above, three of those bulkheads are OSB and will thrown out after roll over. This gives fairly large areas inside the hull that are uncluttered with full-size bulkheads. Structure will be added later with seating counters etc, and all these are glassed in as well which will add strength.

I am just the builder, not the designer so I may not know as much as I think I do, but I just thought I would throw that out there and give you some more things to think about. I did not pay attention to the stern when I first posted. Even though the CAD gives us the panel loftings, they never seem to work properly so I always ignore them and bend the plywood around the stern scribe and cut.

It does take some work to get the bottom panels rigid enough to do this. Thanks Waikikin for your complement on the hull - I like the raised deck style too - I haven't seen one modern boat of this style in Australia, so I thought I'd change that.

Thanks Joel for your advice. I have read devlin's book and noticed that you guys stack up the layers on your fantails - it was actually the fantails at Devlins that inspired me to do mine - I love the idea of being able to disguise the cines at the stern with a curve.

The angle at the stern is quite large. I have made a model of this hull from the developed plates on freeship, and we found that bending the panels at the stern wasn't difficult at all. We were using very thin model aeroplane plywood, but it occured to me that the larger the stern angle, the less the curvature is as it is spread out over a larger distance.

Your experience will be much greater in this area than mine, and I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on it - whether you have noticed if it is easier or not to bend the panels at the stern of fantail boats if the stern angle is greater or less.

Brands01 , Feb 1, One more, can you find the minimum radius in the back? It is really a matter of getting a sheet of plywood on the boat and testing the bend. The species of wood makes a difference as well. The bend is not the only problem, the hardest part is getting the ends to lay flat if you are piecing it together with anything short of a full length scarfed panel.

Thanks again Joel, I really appreciate the input.

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