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Asking what's the best boat trailer in today's market simply comes down to your wallet. With the soaring price of different metals, some boat trailer manufacturers are scaling back on quality to make ends meet, which means a lesser product for you.
You'll find this method of business in some of your lower end boat trailers so resist the urge of going cheap, as this is where you will quickly learn that not all boat trailers are created equally! If you're just looking for a small trailer to get by on, or your boat is simply a beater to get you on the water, then by all means look at the lower end boat trailers, as there's no sense in your trailer costing more than your boat. For those with boats of value, whether sentimental or monetary, I would highly suggest you do your homework on boat trailers before jumping in blindly.
Many boat trailers are pretty to look at when they are new, but what material lurks beneath that shiny new exterior can quickly turn ugly. So what's the best boat trailer? Before I get into telliing you what boat trailer I feel is the best on the market, let's take a look at some valuable considerations that you need to be aware of before purchasing a boat trailer.
Boat trailers come in a few basic design configurations that dictate durability and longevity. There are tubular box frames, which are the most solid design; aluminum I-beam trailers, which are lighter, yet have the best strength-per-weight ration, and C-channel trailers, which are the least expensive and designed for light boats.
The first thing I look at is the material that the boat trailer is made of. I have owned many boat trailers in my life, and in my earlier years the majority were galvanized. This is a steel trailer either electroplated or hot dipped in zinc. Hot dipping produces a thicker matte coating that is unmistakably gray in color, while electroplating is a much thinner coating that often has a reflective coating and can look like stainless or aluminum.
Electroplating is the cheapest and last the least of the two. No matter what you do, galvanized boat trailers will corrode, and many do within the first year or two. Personally, I do not like galvanized trailers because they can quickly look like the metal roof on your granddads 60 year old country barn. Aluminum on the other hand has won my heart over as of many years ago. I have had three aluminum boat trailers over the last 15 years, all from Rolls Axle.
Each trailer has held up extremely well in every aspect. My first aluminum boat trailer , though lasted and was strong until the day I sold her, she aged in the form of slight pitting and white oxidation from corrosion, partly due to my lack of maintenance. Keep in mind that not all aluminum boat trailers are created equally either, so ensuring that your trailer is made from good grade aluminum will be on you to figure out.
My current aluminum trailer has been with me for six years and was purchased new. Again, I really don't put a lot of maintenance effort into my trailers, but the Rolls Axle I have as shown in the picture above is almost as good as the day I bought her, EXCEPT for the brakes, rotors, hubs, and jack, all maintenance items. I have very little if any pitting and no white corrosion anywhere after six long years of heavy saltwater use and I just give it a decent freshwater spray after use.
When considering boat weight consider the wet weight. Also keep in mind of the weight for bateries, T-Top, motor and anything else not on that spec sheet. You'll need a trailer that has the ability to tow that weight, not the weight you read from the spec sheet.
Also, you'll want a buffer zone for weight shifting surges. You really don't need to concern yourself here, as the dealer should work that out for you, just ensure they do!
This is not your boat length as on the spec sheet. A properly fit boat trailer measures longer than your boat. When determining boat length, do not include the extended swim platform, as boat trailers support the hulls running surface that it sits on. Remember to include the bow pulpit in your length calculations if the boat has one. The trailer bunks should come to the edge or within a few inches over the hull, but never short of the hull, as this will cause damage to your hull.
It isn't until the carpet wears off or you take note of a sagging rotted trailer bunk that you begin the search for a suitable trailer bunk replacement material.
In most cases, I'd have to say that the most common trailer bunk replacment material is standard pressure treated lumber from Home Depot wrapped in outdoor carpet. Unfortunately, there are several things wrong with going this route. It does not protect against weathering, nor is it meant for the harsh applications of this nature, and therefore will dry out fairly quick and split each time it goes through a wet to dry transformation, which then opens the door to rot.
Continuous wetting and drying actions will cause warping, cracking and splintering. This wood is meant to be coated with a preservative. Furthermore, the chemicals mentioned can cause corrosion of aluminum and galvanized trailer parts.
The problem here is that Trex is very flexible decking material that warps and is not meant for the weight of a boat hull. Trailers do not have the support that a wood deck has, so think twice before using this material as the main support. It can be used as a topper, but be aware that it becomes very slippery!
Trying to break into the market is the aluminum trailer bunks. I do not have any experience with aluminum trailer bunks, but I've seen them around. Thread starter MattFlam Start date Jul 19, MattFlam Recruit. Joined Jul 19, Messages 1. Hello, so I am in need of assistance. I have searched for boat guide-ons for my trailer and haven't really found any that fit.
I have tried the ones I have purchased from academy and non of the fit on this trailer as they are supposed to. I can provide a pictures below of what I'm working with. What I am searching for is DIY boat guide-ons or recommendations on what to get. Recent events almost require me to get guides to make loading the trailer easier Minor shoulder surgery.
Guides will really help with this. This will not allow me to post a picture of my space I have to work with. Capt'n Caution Cadet. Joined Jul 16, Messages Matt: The angle cross beam supporting the bunk supports is a good place to install guide-ons. The metal bunk supports attach to the angles, but I cannot see how in the photo. In my opinion it would not be a good idea to drill any holes through them.
If the bunk supports are held on with a u-bolt which is triangular in shape to match the angle, more of these can be used to attach the guide-ons. A lot depends on your jon and the overall beam and the width between the fenders and where your bunks are located relative to the beam at the chines and gunwales. You can test it by clamping a piece of 1x2 or 2x2 long enough to reach from the cross beam to above the gunwales.
If you can put a guide at an angle which clears the widest point of the beam it should work. I have done this with 1. I Cut 2 pieces to the proper length, and clamped one to the cross beam. I marked where the triangular u-bolt contacts the alu guide on.
This gave me some room to get the correct angle. I tested again with the bolt, then copied to the other guide-on. I then bought some 2" abs corecell sewer pipe.
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