Diy Canoe Building Plans Meaning

By ccoyleJune 22, in New member Introductions. If you're reading this, it's probably because you are ready and raring to get started on a first ship model. But before you do, allow me to share the following with bjilding.

We get a lot of first-time builders on this forum. People who are eager to build a first ship model are attracted to the hobby for a variety of reasons. Maybe you have a beloved relative who was a modeler.

Or it could be that you just have a love of the sea, even if you've never sailed on anything larger than a rowboat. All of us came to MSW with similar motivations. Those of us who have been at this for a while not only love the hobby, but also love passing along our experience to new builders.

It's a special treat to see a new modeler persevere through the joys and sorrows and often tedium of building a ship model and arrive successfully at the end of a build with a finished buildiny to be proud of. Unfortunately, many of those eager new members also turn out to be last-time builders as.

There are lots of reasons why a first-timer might give up. Building a nice ship model requires the learning of many new skills, a not inconsiderable amount of tenacity, and usually a significant time investment.

Some new modelers get bored, others get overwhelmed, and some get overtaken by things like career changes, cross-country moves, babies, sudden illnesses -- that life stuff we buillding have to deal with occasionally. We understand those things happen. We get it. This post, though, is written for a particular kind of model ship building beginners ranking modeler: the modeler who takes on more ship then they can handle.

Unfortunately, this kind of modeler is all too common. Bewitched by a clipper ship or sailing man-of-war, this kind of newbie believes that they can jump right in and build something similar. Allow me to use an analogy. I'm not a pilot, but I love old warbirds. Suppose I go to an airshow and, having been awed by the spectacle, decide to go out and buy a P and take her up for a few high-g maneuvers. All with no flying experience, mind you.

I don't have to tell you how that first flight is likely to end up. Sadly, many of the newcomers to MSW have a similar experience with model ships. They come brimming with pluck and determination, convinced that they can build a Constitution or Victory.

In most instances, these bright-eyed neophytes wind up like model ship building beginners ranking over-zealous new P owner -- dead. Well, unlike the pilot, the would-be modelers are probably still alive, but their dreams of nice model ships have certainly gone to a better place. Now, before I go any further, allow me to make a few things perfectly clear. Am I saying that a new modeler should never attempt a complicated model or that newcomers never finish such models?

No, I'm not saying. There are a few modelers who have attempted such projects and completed them, so it is certainly possible. But those modelers are very few in number. And we don't have any rules about what kind of model you can or can't build around. If you absolutely, positively have to have a crack at a three-decker or frigate, then have at it.

We'll be glad to help you along the way. Rankinh just be aware ahead of time how shio of a challenge you are getting yourself. Let me throw some beignners at you to illustrate my point.

One of my jobs here at MSW is to comb through old build logs and edit the titles of completed builds to show that the model has been finished it makes searching for finished models model ship building beginners ranking. Obviously, as I sift through the builds I find many unfinished ones.

On just one page model ship building beginners ranking I was recently checking, I found twelve unfinished build logs started by first-time builders. In ten of those build logs, the new builder never made it past completing the hull of his ship. In the other two, the builder never started the model at all. Nine of those twelve modelers are no longer active on this site.

I did not include among those twelve modelers any who gave a life-got-in-the-way reason for suspending their build. They're simply twelve modelers who eagerly started their project and then, usually quite early danking, just gave up and quietly disappeared without giving any reasons why. Those twelve builds all had one thing in common: each modeler had chosen a model that posed significant challenges for a first-time builder.

Some of those models would have been a challenge even for a skilled builder. Model ship building beginners ranking put, they doomed their attempt at modeling by choosing a model that was over their head.

All of us ship modelers know how real the temptation is to skip an entry-level model and go straight for lots of guns and lots of sails. But here's the whole point I want to make: seriously think twice about caving into that temptation. The evidence speaks for itself - literally hundreds of abandoned build logs begun by model ship building beginners ranking who bit off more than they could chew.

Many of them not model ship building beginners ranking abandoned their build, they also gave up on the hobby entirely. It didn't have to be that way. Model ship building beginners ranking a good start by honestly appraising your skill level and deciding to go with a simple first model is one of the surest ways to success in this hobby. Most true beginner models -- those actually designed for beginners and not merely labeled as such -- don't require a lot of money, time, or expensive tools.

In a few weeks you'll know if this hobby is for you without having gotten yourself worked up over a model you couldn't realistically complete. And you know, most of us here enjoy watching the progress on a relatively 'easy' model, like a small sailboat, just as much as we enjoy watching the progress on an HMS Victory -- especially when we see those models being finished and proudly displayed.

For more information on choosing a first model, check out the NRG modeling resources page. Choose wisely, enjoy the journey, modle I look forward to seeing you complete your first build log. This has always been a tough decision whit model building in general. My first ship build buildimg the Constitution. It was Revell's plastic scale kit. Granted I had been modeling for about 15 years at that point so I was not new to model building, nor complicated builds.

I do admit though that there were times when I thought I had bit off more than I could chew with that kit. Even with the kits two piece begonners and very good instructions, it is still a very daunting kit to someone who had never built a ship model ship building beginners ranking and maybe more than I should have undertaken.

That being said, it came out beautiful two years later and sits proudly in my dad's house as it was beginhers I built it model ship building beginners ranking. Now that being said, I was not interested in building other ships at the time.

That one was undertaken as a gift for my dad model ship building beginners ranking he modep not able to finish his model of the Constitution and it had become too badly damaged to salvage.

Had I started building a simpler ship but without the motivation to build it other than "this looks fun" I may not have wanted to push through to completion when I hit those hard places. Rankihg learned a lot on that first build and every time I managed to struggle my way through to beginmers of a part I would and still do sit back and admire it for a long time. This is where my love of ship building was born. Seeing that majestic ship come together and knowing that I made that happen created a love of this hobby and filled that void that other models were not able to.

I know my story is in the minority of first time ship builders. I also know that models are put on hold for many reasons other than burnout. My dad's had to stop because he had me, was going to college, working 2 jobs and then my mom died.

He has built models since but never had the time to complete his Constitution before the ship got ruined. A friend of mine from the Navy has a great model railroad layout that never got completed since he was constantly getting deployed and now is getting ready to retire and move so he has beginner disassemble it. Just recently my own build has stopped as I found out last week my dog of 11 years has cancer, no way to fix it and we had to put him down yesterday.

My wife and I are still devastated over this loss. I think it is wise of us as a community of experienced builders to encourage first timers to choose easier kits as it is a shame to see so many unfinished builds out. However, I do not think we should discourage them if they choose to take on a harder one to start.

Instead, be sure to constantly follow their builds and try to offer help and suggestions model ship building beginners ranking how to get through those tough areas when they are reached. We do not always know what outside circumstances may cause a build to stop. You and Chris raise valid points. There are those who start a build log, realize they're in way over their heads and give up.

There are others, who start a log, realize they're in way over their heads beginnerss the put that log on hold and get a simpler kit. One of the topics over the years has been about the number of models, unfinished, sitting in an attic or basement because the builder didn't know how to do what was needed. There's two articles in the article database that explain "how to select a kit" and "what to expect in a kit".

They've been offered many time to new members. Both articles have great model ship building beginners ranking. Going from plastic to wood is a big step. Similar to going from replacing some buildkng on your car to building one from the ground up. Same principles, just different skill set needed. In model ship building beginners ranking case, my first ship was Wasa from Billings.

I opened the kit, read the directions model ship building beginners ranking that they are, and put it away. I went to the hobby shop and beginnerd a simple battle station and AL's Scottish Maid. I learned. It's humbling to realize you don't know how to do things.

Make point:

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On just one page that I was recently checking, I found twelve unfinished build logs started by first-time builders. In ten of those build logs, the new builder never made it past completing the hull of his ship. In the other two, the builder never started the model at all. Nine of those twelve modelers are no longer active on this site. I did not include among those twelve modelers any who gave a life-got-in-the-way reason for suspending their build.

They're simply twelve modelers who eagerly started their project and then, usually quite early on, just gave up and quietly disappeared without giving any reasons why. Those twelve builds all had one thing in common: each modeler had chosen a model that posed significant challenges for a first-time builder.

Some of those models would have been a challenge even for a skilled builder. Simply put, they doomed their attempt at modeling by choosing a model that was over their head. All of us ship modelers know how real the temptation is to skip an entry-level model and go straight for lots of guns and lots of sails.

But here's the whole point I want to make: seriously think twice about caving into that temptation. The evidence speaks for itself - literally hundreds of abandoned build logs begun by modelers who bit off more than they could chew.

Many of them not only abandoned their build, they also gave up on the hobby entirely. It didn't have to be that way. Making a good start by honestly appraising your skill level and deciding to go with a simple first model is one of the surest ways to success in this hobby. Most true beginner models -- those actually designed for beginners and not merely labeled as such -- don't require a lot of money, time, or expensive tools. In a few weeks you'll know if this hobby is for you without having gotten yourself worked up over a model you couldn't realistically complete.

And you know, most of us here enjoy watching the progress on a relatively 'easy' model, like a small sailboat, just as much as we enjoy watching the progress on an HMS Victory -- especially when we see those models being finished and proudly displayed.

For more information on choosing a first model, check out the NRG modeling resources page. Choose wisely, enjoy the journey, and I look forward to seeing you complete your first build log.

This has always been a tough decision whit model building in general. My first ship build was the Constitution. It was Revell's plastic scale kit. Granted I had been modeling for about 15 years at that point so I was not new to model building, nor complicated builds. I do admit though that there were times when I thought I had bit off more than I could chew with that kit. Even with the kits two piece hull and very good instructions, it is still a very daunting kit to someone who had never built a ship before and maybe more than I should have undertaken.

That being said, it came out beautiful two years later and sits proudly in my dad's house as it was him I built it for. Now that being said, I was not interested in building other ships at the time. That one was undertaken as a gift for my dad as he was not able to finish his model of the Constitution and it had become too badly damaged to salvage. Had I started building a simpler ship but without the motivation to build it other than "this looks fun" I may not have wanted to push through to completion when I hit those hard places.

I learned a lot on that first build and every time I managed to struggle my way through to completion of a part I would and still do sit back and admire it for a long time. This is where my love of ship building was born.

Seeing that majestic ship come together and knowing that I made that happen created a love of this hobby and filled that void that other models were not able to do. I know my story is in the minority of first time ship builders. I also know that models are put on hold for many reasons other than burnout. My dad's had to stop because he had me, was going to college, working 2 jobs and then my mom died.

He has built models since but never had the time to complete his Constitution before the ship got ruined. A friend of mine from the Navy has a great model railroad layout that never got completed since he was constantly getting deployed and now is getting ready to retire and move so he has to disassemble it.

Just recently my own build has stopped as I found out last week my dog of 11 years has cancer, no way to fix it and we had to put him down yesterday. My wife and I are still devastated over this loss. I think it is wise of us as a community of experienced builders to encourage first timers to choose easier kits as it is a shame to see so many unfinished builds out there.

However, I do not think we should discourage them if they choose to take on a harder one to start. Instead, be sure to constantly follow their builds and try to offer help and suggestions on how to get through those tough areas when they are reached.

We do not always know what outside circumstances may cause a build to stop. You and Chris raise valid points. There are those who start a build log, realize they're in way over their heads and give up. There are others, who start a log, realize they're in way over their heads and the put that log on hold and get a simpler kit.

One of the topics over the years has been about the number of models, unfinished, sitting in an attic or basement because the builder didn't know how to do what was needed. There's two articles in the article database that explain "how to select a kit" and "what to expect in a kit".

They've been offered many time to new members. Both articles have great advice. Going from plastic to wood is a big step. Similar to going from replacing some items on your car to building one from the ground up. Same principles, just different skill set needed. In my case, my first ship was Wasa from Billings. I opened the kit, read the directions such that they are, and put it away.

I went to the hobby shop and bought a simple battle station and AL's Scottish Maid. I learned. It's humbling to realize you don't know how to do things. When those two models wiere done, I did the Wasa. We here at MSW have also seen the same thing in scratchbuilding. Look at the logs of models never finished. Even the starters like the Triton cross-section.

It's tough call on things in this hobby. MSW is based on the premise that everyone wants everyone else to succeed also. Mutual support. Sometimes, the advice may seem harsh, but it's voices of experience that give it. And they give it in context of "how to learn". Some new builders do carry on and turn out a nice model but they are usually reading other logs and listening to those who have built the model.

And most would tell you, they should have started with something easier. I think it is common among many myself included , to get all enthusiastic about a new hobby, then; when the new-car-smell is gone, to loose interest.

It is nothing to do with the hobby itself, just human nature. Witness that boat sitting among the weeds in the back yard, or that guitar gathering dust in the corner I am guilty of both, as well as others I can't recall at the moment.

Sometimes, you just have to try a bunch of different hobbies that strike your fancy, hoping you find one that sticks. One suggestion I would make- is to not make a build log on your first project, just read what others are doing, and ask questions.

Of course, I could be mistaken. I think that the biggest problem is not just the complexity of the built but the time needed to invest. In my first two boats, on some days I could spent 7 hours building. Now, with work and familly commitments increasing I struggle to find any time at all and I am sure my current project will take years to complete.

But it is a good idea to have a built log, I find it very motivating. Jud, I think you misunderstand my motivation for starting this thread. I'm not trying to 'judge' anyone, and I'm not saying a beginner can't complete a complex model we've all seen it done.

But in the pages of MSW 2. We don't send first-time skiers to the black diamond runs, and we don't let first-year medical students do heart transplants -- the same principle applies to ship models: try something commensurate with one's skills.

I'm really not trying to turn people away -- I'm trying to help them make a choice of first model that will increase their chance of staying in the hobby.

Success breeds more success. And haven't we all read about the much-bemoaned demise of the hobby? Hundreds quite literally of people quitting their attempts at building certainly doesn't alleviate that problem. I have built two or three model boats, probably with lots of mistakes, and I certainly consider myself a beginner. I have completed these models only by reading members builds on this site and trying to learn from them.

However I firmly believe that if a model is classified as suitable for a beginner then the instructions and plans should reflect this. In my limited experience this is definitely not the case. Instructions are very sparse and the plans very complicated. If manufacturers say a model is for beginners then instructions and plans should be written with the beginner in mind. If that was the case then maybe more models would be completed and more people would carry on with this hobby.

Certainly there are many factors time, ability, etc that contribute to whether one will 'stick with' this hobby, and many of those can't be quantified until you get going.

But I do agree that the choice of kit can sometimes be a 'make or break' decision. I really, really want to build the Syren. But I think it is just a little beyond my reach at the moment, so I'm picking something else for my next build.

I'm still new to this - I picked up ship building about 9 months ago. For my first build, I chose the Phantom - solid hull. This meant no hull or deck planking, no square rigging, and no gunports or guns to build. I made a lot of mistakes. For my second build, I'm building the Bluenose.

This adds basic POB stuff keel, bulkheads, etc , hull and deck planking, more detail. But I chose this particular ship because the hull is painted - my first attempt at hull planking is likely to turn out a little 'less than great', so I can learn hull planking but still use wood filler and paint to end up with a good build.

I was tempted to jump right into the Syren next even had it in my shopping cart on the Model Expo site at one point , but I decided to do another build before I take that plunge, to get some experience with square rigging and gunports.

If you're getting into the hobby for the long haul, it doesn't hurt to spend some time working your way up. You learn valuable skills that will pay off when you finally get to that 'big build'. You also get a great sense of accomplishment from having successfully completed something and that is much easier to reach with a 'beginner build'. All that being said, you have to be interested in the ship you are building.

It has to catch your eye. If honestly nothing catches your eye except the Constitution, you might as well try. Better to try something and have it fizzle out than to not try at all.

But if a first time builder is willing to start small, I do think it Model Ship Building - Complete Beginners Guide Google will pay off in the end. We have had some relatively new builders do the Syren. It's not a beginner kit but the instructions do go a long way in helping the builder visualize the build as you go.

I'm very much on the fence about recommending this one, only because it has a lot of repetitive tasks I have a theory that may apply to Chris's post. When I started building my first log, I came to conclusion that my boat will never look as good as most of the builds on this site no matter what I did at the time.

Now that I have four kits under my belt I feel a lot better about posting to build logs. Unfortunately I do not have the time these days like I did 4 years ago to work on my builds.

My Scotland Kit is over two years old now, still trying to get one whole day to sit down and get going on it. These people may have finished their boats but chose not to continue the log because they felt it wasn't good enough to share. Some of the people on this forum are 30 plus year veterans at this hobby and they make such beautiful ships that it may drive away novices from posting.

Who knows where these build logs have gone, just saying my theory could be valid along with people just losing interest. I found the email receipt for my Enterprise There have been a lot of reasons why its taken so long; health, end of a relationship, a death, start of another relationship, work. The big one for me is I cant leave well enough alone and have to keep fiddling with things.

Then there is that short attention span. As far as why others fail to finish? I suspect there are as many reasons why builds and build logs are abandoned as there are builders; time, money tools skills, poor instructions, overestimation of how long it will take etc etc.

Keeping up a build log takes time and effort. By the time I have taken and edited pictures, written a post, edited and re-edited Gods of Spell Check I thank you it could be an hour or more. I imagine some decide its more effort than it is worth to them. When it comes to helping others pick a first build all we can do is give anecdotal advice and hope they listen. When they ME? I know I most likely would not continued with out all the advice and encouragement I recieve d.

And building a simple boat first and progressively taking on more complex projects allows one to gradually buy the truckloads of necessary and "nice to have" stuff without the admiral realising the cost. Also, one can gradually expand and occupy space in the house that otherwise would be point blank denied. There have Model Ship Building For Beginners Victory been quite a few who have given up on even those kits labelled as simple.

I'm not sure that there is an even simpler kit for them. It may be more that the hobby is just not for them. Check the SIZE of the finished build.

Many kits when completed are a lot bigger than you think and even before completion need a fair amount of space. You can look too closely at what you are doing - my most admired build was cobbled together at speed well 4 months I wouldnt put pics of it on here and I have done much better work.

But its the one that I show off!! Never assume the aim is to finish! The "journey" is all and the hours getting a teeny piece of wood just right is so relaxing in itself. On this site here will always be someone who does it better than you but also there is also someone who may be learning from you. Personally I do regret the shortage of simple solid hulled kits of a reasonable standard for youngsters to " build along with grand dad" and for grandad to start off with!!

In I brought Artesania Latina's Endeavour. It was well beyond my ability and knowledge. No internet to help back then of course. It ended up in the parts bin one third poorly built. Nice kit. I'm rigging it at the moment. With this forum's resources I've had no problems I could not solve or fix. I'll finish it. My ambition is to build Chris Watton's Victory if it is ever released , as a retirement project. But I know I'll have to get a few builds under my belt before I buy a kit like that.

I support the moderator's advice. If I had started with a smaller less complicated build in I may have had a house full of finished model ships by now. Anyway that's my view. I'm pleased to have returned to the hobby.. I'll post a picture when the Mars is finished. I think I'm just too slow at present with working full time to do a build log justice.

My first-time attempt was a model of Artesania's Hannah and I got into a real mess when it came to the planking. The model was,and still is abandoned. Undaunted,my next attempt was Scottish Maid, which was much more successful,though it still needs one or two finishing touches to the rigging. I found the hull much easier to plank both first and second planking with its 'clipper' lines.

Currently I am building Mamoli's Yacht Mary, which proved rather tricky to plank,but I have now completed the hull,and have made a start on the mast,spars and rigging.

The advice given above is very good-pick a simple model for starters,and one that is fairly easy to plank-not too many tight curves or excessive sheer. Heck, I have been building models with breaks for about 60 years, I still can't build anything to compare with the beautiful models seen in here. I maintain those plastic WWII kits built as a kid, are legitimate models, and not sticky lumps of glue. I have to agree with Skip - I too have been building models for over 60 with starts and stops both plastic and wood - some Military Armor and some wooden ships.

And I too am not as good as many of the modelers I see here but so what. I'm learning! I think Tony is correct. You have to account that a portion of people who get into ship modeling even if they have longed to build one for years, decades, blah give it a go and just decide it's not for them.

There's a certain masochism Seeing the list posted, yes a few were Connie's, one Bounty yeah but some were beginners kits, two Sultana's and one Armed Virginia Sloop which should Model Ship Building Beginners 5th be good starting points. So I think maybe including those on your list Chris may be part of the confusion here since those models were definitely the correct choice just the builders lost interest which is going to happen no matter how much or little the builders in question listen to the wisdom of experience.

I believe generally the center section is typically marked on both halves. The sections moving towards the stern are typically to the left, and towards the stem is to the right. Although, I don't believe this is set in stone. A method I've heard works well is to use tracing paper for your templates: Trace the half section and mark waterline and centerline Cut it out with scissors Mark a centerline on the wood Transfer first half to the wood Flip the template over and transfer the other half Another method is to use carbon paper under your plan.

Some even use this technique directly onto the wood. I would not recommend it though. The method I've always used, is to take the plan to a copy store and run a copy of the section view which is to become the bulkheads , one of the stem and one of the stern profiles.

I lay the plan out on the copier making sure I get as much info on the sheet as possible. I'm cheap, so if I can get them onto a letter-size paper I will. These sheets will become my masters. Next I lay in any reference lines that may be necessary. More about that later. The stem and stern copies are used for profile templates for keelson, transom and shear angles and the like.

In most cases any missing information between the stem and stern profile can be recreated on taped-together graph-paper with a batten or straight-edge. Most keels are straight, so a straight stick of wood is used. Next I go back to the copy store and get the same amount of copies as I need bulkheads of the section plan, plus a couple of extras in case I mess up.

Next I number the sheets of paper corresponding to each section number. If there are no numbers, I create them and mark them on the profile working drawing that I created. On each sheet I also use a yellow hi-lighter and mark the section that corresponds to the number on the sheet.

When this is all done I fold the sheets carefully down the center-line. You can score very carefully with the X-acto knife and a straight-edge to get the fold exactly where you want it. With a pair of scissors I trim the templates according to each hi-lighted section. Once unfolded I have a perfect, symmetric set of section templates. Copy paper in my method as I described it or tracing paper. I believe tracing the sections to become templates will be less precise, but I have little experience with the tracing paper.

I've always used the copier. You've come to the right place! In the meantime, go to the library and take a look around. Leaf will give you the basics, a handy glossary and he'll show two models he's building. This book is all about static model ships, and mostly from wood and metal, so nothing on styrene sheet or casting resin. I think it's a good book to get the basic understanding of the entire process with fairly detailed tips on how to create certain details from scratch.

Boat Modelling , by Vic Smeeds. This is my favorite model boat book. It was first published in A revised, 16th edition came out in ' It's soft cover and only pages, but I love it. It's more geared toward working models.

It is very casual and creative in its approach. It shows a lot of hull construction methods that go beyond RC boat models. Scale Model Ships , by Vic Smeeds. This is a good backup or alternative to the previous book, and they do cross over.

It's as good as the other, but focuses more on working scale models rather than model boats in general. Typically you want a little denser material than the lightest stuff the plane builders like. If you pick it out yourself, try picking even sheets where the entire board has a somewhat consistent density. Also look for straight grain etc. Tools and Equipment Balsa is so easy to work that this will be a short list.

The most annoying aspect of balsa is the "fuzz" that raises when you sand it. X-acto knife or single-edge razor blades A cutting mat is good A small plane that accepts razor blades is handy to taper strips for planking. Don't get one that takes special blades, you should be able to use off-the-shelf generic blades.

A building board - generally it needs to be flat and without twist. Traditionally a material is used that you can push pins into the board. That's the old-school way of holding the bulkheads, keelson and transom in place while you plank it. The stuff bulletin boards are made from seems to work well. When you build you lay a piece of paper down with the stations marked.

Stations is the term used to denote location of the bulkhead along the length of the hull. On top of this paper I generally lay Saran wrap. It helps protect the paper and building board from grue. Parchment paper is old-school, but it's so hard to see through. As to your final question. The hull is normally built upside-down and the bulkheads pinned to the building board.

Very few boat hulls have a flat shear the edge where the hull meets the deck , so there are two ways that I've seen: Extend the bulkheads to a predetermined, arbitrary reference line outside "above" the hull proper that you marked on your "master" section copy.

If the bulkheads were cut with the grain in a vertical direction, it's a good idea to score the balsa where the bulkheads will be trimmed after planking. With this method you'll waste some material, but it should be minimal. Cut each bulkhead in half at an arbitrary "waterline". A Waterline as its proper term, is any plane parallel to the Design Waterline which is exactly what you think of as the waterline.

For this method or construction, the plane you pick is best chosen relatively close to the deck. The lower part of the hull is built on the board as outlined earlier. Once planked it is detached from the building board and the upper part of the bulkheads are glued on, and the rest of the hull is planked.

That should be enough to get you started. Feel free to use the "comment" feature for follow-up questions. For new, unrelated questions - just start a new one. Click here to add your own comments.

Copyright Building-Model-Boats. Trademarks belong to their respective owners. Scale Model Ships by Vic Smeed is a good backup to. Cabinet grade Baltic Birch Ply should be fine. Obviously there are a lot more options if you can process your own wood.

Linden or Basswood is an old classic. It doesn't have a lot of strength or stiffness, but is easy to work with. I'm sure Poplar could be used as well. It is similar to Basswood - not very strong or stiff. Mahogany of course is the old classic, but is getting scarce and expensive. Normally I wouldn't recommend softwoods for planking because they don't bend well.

However, a WW1 battle cruiser hull doesn't have a lot of curvature to it. If using solid blocks in strategic places I think Cedar, Pine or Spruce could be used. HTH Petter. It will be almost 7 ft in length and about 12 inches in the beam.

Quite heavy, I project. My previous post was not about how to cut the bulkheads and plank the hull. I need suggestions on what thickness of plywood should be used on the keel that will run most of the length maybe 5 or 6 feet long at the bottom and what thickness of planking should be used for the plank-on-bulkhead construction.

Does that sound right? I built the Normandie back in the 's mainly with balsa, and it turned out nicely. Bulkheads and planking were thinner. But this monster that I want to build will need to be stiffer. He cannot provide the fiberglass hull as his mold became defective. But he will provide all the rest of the kit to complete the model. I'm scratch-building the hull.

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