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������� �������� Gulf Stream(Nandina domestica Gulf Stream) Gulf Stream Nandina Care When it comes to care, the main concern for this bush is sunlight. At minimum, it requires partial sun, although full lighting exposure is best for growth. While taking root, a regular watering schedule is required. Aug 09, �� Start by digging your planting hole at least two to three times as wide and no deeper than the rootball of your Nandina plant. The wider the hole the better. Place native soil removed from planting hole around the perimeter of the hole, in a wheel barrow, or on a tarp. Step 2. Some may be in a location that gets more water while some not so much rendering them more vulnerable to freezing damage of foliage and root systems. The nandina may take more time to recover from winter damage than many of your deciduous plants but most will .
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Toggle navigation. Home Advice Blog. Nandina, commonly called heavenly bamboo or sacred bamboo by some, are immensely popular, versatile evergreen shrubs with colorful, lacy foliage that resemble When established Nandina are exceptionally drought-tolerant. Bugs aren't a problem and when planted properly they have no disease problems.

Although the standard Nandina domestica grows as a tall green shrub that turns a little red in winter and produces white flower spikes and clusters of red berries, other new Nandina varieties offer different growth habits, foliage colors and don't produce flowers or berries.

When planted right, and in the right spot, Nandina plants are exceptionally versatile and easy to grow and care for. Cultural Preferences. Nandina is not picky about soil type, however prefers a somewhat loose, fertile and well-drained soil. As with so many other types of ornamental plants, constantly soggy or wet soil can and often will cause root rot and other harmful plant diseases. If you are uncertain about soil drainage in the area you intend to plant your Nandina, it's well worth taking the time to test the drainage before planting.

To test soil drainage, dig a hole 12" wide by 12" deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but this time clock how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil the water level will go down at a rate of about 1 inch an hour.

A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may Boat & Stream Questions Uk signal potentially dry site conditions. A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a caution you need to improve drainage, plant in a raised mound or bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet or boggy conditions. Soil pH is a measurement of the alkalinity or acidity of soil, which is measured on a scale of , with 7 as the neutral mark.

Any measurement below 7 indicates acid soil conditions, and anything above 7 indicates alkaline. Nandina grow best in a moderately acid to slightly alkaline soil ranging from 6. Most average garden soils fall between a pH range of 6. If you're unsure about the pH of your soil, or whether or not it's suitable for growing Nandina, it's a good idea to test the soil pH in the planting area.

You can quickly test soil pH with an inexpensive soil pH testing kit or probe. To raise the pH make more alkaline you can add pelletized limestone to the soil. Adding organic compost to the soil or using compost as mulch can also help to increase acidity and maintain acid soil conditions. When it comes to light, Nandina are exceptionally versatile.

Plant them in sun or shade and they'll do fine. That said, foliage colors will be more intense with more sun. Planting Nandina In The Ground. Start by digging your planting hole at least two to three times as wide and no deeper than the rootball of your Nandina plant.

The wider the hole the better. Place native soil removed from planting hole around the perimeter of the hole, in a wheel barrow, or on a tarp. Depending on the type, fertility and porosity of the native soil in the planting area it might be beneficial to amend the native soil.

When planting in fertile, loamy, well-drained soil there is no need for adding a soil amendment. Be very careful when removing your Nandina plant from the nursery pot it was growing in.

Gently try to lift the plant from the pot. If the rootball is stuck in the pot, to avoid damaging the plant, cut the container away. After having removed the plant from the container, use your fingers or a claw tool to gently loosen some feeder roots around the surface of the root ball. If you are mass planting Nandina plants as a groundcover over a large area, to determine how many plants you will need to fill the planting area, it is helpful to determine total square feet of the planting area.

Once you have the square footage of the planting area, and have determined how far apart you will space plants, you can calculate how many plants it will take to fill the planting area. Under the description tab on every Nandina plant page in Wilson Bros Gardens you will find spacing recommendations. Set and space all plants in the planting area before starting to plant.

Alternatively, you can use marking paint to mark the spot where each plant will go, which is often necessary when planting on steep slopes, where plants in containers will not stay put. If there will be more than one row of plants, begin by setting out or marking one straight row of plants. It's best to start along the edge of the planting bed making sure to space plants at a distance far enough from the edge of the planting bed to allow for future spreading.

For example, plants with a recommended spacing of 24" apart should be spaced at least 12" from the edge of the bed or surfaced area to the center of the plant. After setting out the first row, stagger the plants on the second row and so on until the space is filled. If you are planting in well-drained soil set your Nandina in the planting hole so that the top edge of the rootball is at or slightly above ground level.

If your soil drains slowly, holding water for an extended period of time after rainfall or irrigation, the top of the root ball should be 2 to 3 inches above ground level, as shown in the planting diagram below.

If necessary, add some backfill soil mixture to the bottom of the hole to achieve proper planting height. NOTE: If the soil is poorly drained constantly soggy or wet improve drainage, plant the root ball in a raised mound entirely above ground level, or select a different plant species more tolerant of wet soils.

After setting your Nandina in the planting hole, use one hand to hold the plant straight and your other hand to begin back-filling your soil mixture around the root ball, tamping as you go to remove air pockets.

When you have filled the hole to the halfway point you can soak the soil. Then continue back-filling to the top edge of the root ball. If you are planting higher than ground level taper your soil mixture gradually from the top edge of the root ball to the ground level, as shown in the planting diagram above.

To avoid suffocating your plant, avoid placing any soil on top of the root ball. Only build this berm if the soil is very well-drained. This basin will help to collect water from rainfall and irrigation often reducing the need for hand-watering.

The berm can be removed after a year or so when the plant has established itself. Next, deeply water the planting area, including the root ball, to a depth equal to the height of the root ball. For an extra boost, and to stimulate early root formation and stronger root development, you can also water you newly planted Nandina with a solution of Root Stimulator, which reduces transplant shock and promotes greener, more vigorous plants.

In fact, it's only been recently that nandina has caught on as a Pennsylvania option. When winter temperatures get down into the single digits, nandina typically turns brown and suffers some branch dieback. Below-zero temperatures often kill them, which is why it took a string of warming winters to make nandinas a more common plant across southern Pennsylvania.

Despite browning in cold winters, nandinas end up looking pretty good by early summer after a little pruning and some fresh springtime growth.

The bird-killing reports are fairly new. Nandinas have long been considered a bird-friendly plant because of the winter fruits that robins, cardinals, mockingbirds, cedar waxwings and others devour.

However, in , researchers investigating dozens of dead cedar waxwings in Georgia traced the deaths to cyanide poisoning � a result of the birds gorging themselves on nandina berries and overdosing. Nandina fruits � like 2, other plants � contain small amounts of cyanide. The theory resulting from that is that cedar waxwings are particularly prone to nandina poisoning because of how they tend to gorge-feed when they find a food to their liking.

To solve any concerns of both invasiveness and bird-poisoning, a good solution is to stick with nandina varieties that are sterile � i. Most of the new dwarf types have that trait and are grown for their compactness, durability and colorful foliage as opposed to fruits. Some of my favorite examples of fruitless or nearly so dwarf nandinas are 'Firepower,' 'Harbour Dwarf,' 'Gulf Stream,' Harbour Belle, and a new gold-leafed one called 'Lemon Lime. Note to readers: if you purchase something through one of our affiliate links we may earn a commission.

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