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starcraft bass boat

The MX 21 does more than revolutionize the world of aluminum bass boats�it literally redefines it. Constructed from marine-grade high-strength aluminum, this incredible tournament bass boat is lighter, easier to maintain, and fast to plane�with no compromises on interior fishing features.

The massive square-foot casting deck on this bass boat features impressive storage volume with port and starboard rod lockers and a center storage locker, while the bow is equipped with port and starboard lockers that can each accommodate five rods up to 8' and an additional center storage compartment. No matter what you have planned for your day on the water, the Crestliner Sportfish will make it happen.

The all-welded aluminum hull means this sport fishing boat is durable enough to withstand anything Mother Nature can throw at it. Step into the Ridge, start the motor, and prepare to catch any bass or crappie in your path. The Ridge includes Deluxe old aluminum v bottom boats korea seats with a butt seat exchange option, added paint, flooring, and SureMount accessory options so you can craft exactly the boat you want.

This shallow water aluminum boat is perfect for the angler looking to catch more bass or crappie with the confidence and comfort that owning a Crestliner provides. With just enough fishing features to keep you going like formed-in spray rails to keep you dry, the CR Jon is also durable enough to handle whatever the you--or the water--may throw at it. So, whether you decide to drop a line or cruise, this 18 foot aluminum fishing boat can do it all.

Check out 18 feet of open water dominance. This all-welded aluminum fishing boat is built with the kind of features anglers look. Like an aluminum console, ample rod and livewell storage and a heavy duty windshield, for starters.

The all-welded aluminum hull is lightweight and durable, allowing you to navigate the XF through the shallowest of waters. The advanced broad beam design provides balanced stability, allowing you to cast with plenty of room for a large bow casting platform and tons of storage.

With room for up to 4 passengers and a beefed up horsepower rating of with the Max Performance package, this is over 18 feet of fishing domination. From bow to stern, this competition bass boat is one of the best shallow water boats with all the right features you need to get in position to old aluminum v bottom boats korea in some trophies. This foot jon boat has a strong, durable hull made of all-welded aluminum.

That strength makes it low-maintenance and means you can reach any corner of the water in search of your next catch. The Retriever Jon comes standard with an elevated bow platform for better visibility when fishing.

It also comes with flat flooring which makes it incredibly stable and spacious for you and up to 3 other people to operate. The SureMount Gunnel Accessory System also makes placing accessories convenient around the jon boat no matter where you decide to fish or hunt. When it comes to bass fishing boats, the XF old aluminum v bottom boats korea a seventeen and a half foot fishing machine.

The XF features a large casting platform and other fishing attributes that include everything you need when you take to the water. It seats up to 4 people and is rated for 90 horsepower so you can get to old aluminum v bottom boats korea next fishing spot in a hurry.

With a reimagined casting deck and optional fishing and pro packages, you can create your ideal bass boat. Regardless of your skill level, the XF is designed to give you confidence and comfort every time you go on the water.

Versatility meets value in the Crestliner Storm. It starts with a durable, all-welded aluminum Mod-V hull and continues throughout this thoughtfully designed multispecies fishing boat. There are numerous storage compartments under the seats and at both the bow and stern. Not only is the capable of reaching the shallowest sweet spots, old aluminum v bottom boats korea the all-welded construction of the aluminum tunnel hull old aluminum v bottom boats korea boat is durable enough to withstand even the rockiest shorelines.

Similar to the other models in the Retriever family, these boats are built with purpose. The comes standard with a gallon livewell, ample storage, and room for up to seven fishing or hunting buddies. The Impact XS family fishing and recreational boat is perfect as a fishing boat or family ski boat. Whether you need livewells and rod lockers for serious fishing or a ski pylon for water skiing, wake boarding, tubing, or knee boarding, this family fishing boat is perfect for all your water activities.

There's even extra seats with the rear jump seats for extra passengers or a larger rear casting deck for friends while fishing or cruising in this family boat. Durable, roomy and with formed-in spray rails for a drier ride, the CR Jon is a great way to spend some time on the water. The Lund Impact XS formerly Impact XS family recreational fishing boat is the perfect 18' combination fishing boat or ski boat.

There's even extra seats old aluminum v bottom boats korea the rear jump seats for extra passengers or a large rear casting deck for friends while fishing or cruising in this old aluminum v bottom boats korea boat.

The XFC is the aluminum crappie boat built to help you catch more fish. As for where you cast, this aluminum crappie fishing boat is crafted with a huge front deck layout with ample storage space conveniently placed.

You may have entered incorrect information or the server is temporarily. Please reload this page and try again later. Ideal for freshwater and saltwater fishing these Aluminum Fish boats vary in length from 12ft to 28ft and can carry 3 to old aluminum v bottom boats korea passengers.

These powerboats use the following propulsion options: low power outboard engine. Is an aluminum fishing boat the best choice for the way you fish? The chances are a lot better than you might think. Expense, weight, strength, seaworthiness, and maintenance should all figure into your decision, and in all of these categories, aluminum boats often come out on top.

Generally speaking, aluminum boats are significantly less expensive than fiberglass boats of a comparable size. Again, that saves you some green. In fact, aluminum boats have a distinct old aluminum v bottom boats korea over fiberglass: they tend to dent instead of shatter, when they hit rocks or obstructions.

Glass does have one advantage when it comes to sea-keeping. Their hulls can be designed with more compound curves and detailed tweaks, like padded planing surfaces and reverse chines. Yet the compound curves that are above the waterline also have a drawback: they lead to more work for you, in waxing and buffing them to maintain the fiberglass gelcoat. When it comes to maintaining aluminum, all you need to do is rinse down the boat and scrub off the scales at the end of the day.

All aluminum boats, of course, are not created equally. Those that are welded together, as opposed old aluminum v bottom boats korea riveted, will typically last longer and leak.

Deck construction is another key item to pay attention to. Another key area many anglers fail to take note of is the inner hullside of an aluminum boat: is it carpeted, to cut down on noise? It might just turn out to be the better boat-building material for you. Back Explore View All. Back Types View All. Unpowered Boats Kayaks Dinghies. Personal Watercraft Personal Watercraft.

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Personal Watercraft for Sale View All. Featured Aluminum Fish Brands. Save This Boat. Crestliner Sportfish Crestliner Ridge Crestliner CR Jon Sponsored Boats. North River Commander Tulare, California. Alumacraft Competitor Sport Casper, Wyoming. Ranger RT Greenwood, Indiana. North River Commander Stockton, California.

Crestliner Authority AllianceOhio. B-Boats Lund Jacksonville, Florida. Wide and durable, this small fishing boat simply gets the job. Crestliner Commander Crestliner Storm Crestliner Retriever FCC Request Information.

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Subsequent, day sailing doesn't meant we may't go for the moon amiable journey. 26" Sort 4 Air blower with 5 bowts polyamide blades! If we take it out upon a lake there competence be only the couple of sceptical seems, we need to transparent your personal glow array by digging down to unclothed earth.

Entan- gling nets cost more than hooks or traps. They require a high degree of maintenance, and picking the fish out of the net is labor intensive. Since the fish are usually dead when harvested, they will be of lower quality. Ghost fishing with nets made of synthetic fibers is a problem. To avoid this, the twine holding the netting to the floats should be made of natural fibers, which will rot in time.

Stationary Liftnets Liftnets are lifted from the water at the moment when the sought-after fish have gathered over them. These nets can be installed on boats or on the shores of rivers, lakes, lagoons, and estuaries figure 2. Lifting power may be provided by pulleys or weighted levers.

In South India, liftnets are operated off the beaches and lifted with counterweights. At night, lamps are hung from the crossbars to attract fish. In the Caspian Sea, Soviet fishermen use small circular liftnets equipped with underwater electric lamps to catch anchovy.

A larger variation of liftnet is called a blanket net. Operated from the ship's side, it can almost be as wide as the vessel's length figure 2. Four-boat liftnets are common in Scandinavian and Southeast Asian fisheries.

The net is lowered or raised by all the boats in unison. The I,ake Tanganyika liftnet is suspended from hauling ropes at the four ends of a catamaran 3. Kerosene lamps are used to attract the fish over the net. Fishermen bait. At night, torches or lamps can be used to attract fish. Opening that is suspended between the two hulls. After the fish have been concentrated, the net is quickly hauled through the open area between the hulls.

Liftnets can be cost eEective and labor effective when set under specific conditions narrow passages and rivers or when attracting fish with chum or light. This fishing technique, especially in combination with light attraction, could be used in many areas, either for consumable fish or live bait.

This usually requires engine-propelled boats and usually involves additional investment over passive or stationary gear. Bait may be artificial or natural and attracts predator fish that see what appears to be a smaller fish thrashing and turning in the water. The lure may be nothing more than a colorful piece of cloth, a small bunch of feathers, or a piece of skin from the bait fish, but it must be carefully adapted to local conditions and fish species and size.

The use of outriggers can increase the number of lines that can be trolled and helps keep them from becoming tangled. Trolling offers numerous advantages to small-scale fisheries. Multiple trolling can be performed from a reasonably smog craft. Changing sinker weights allows fishing at graduated depths. I,ures can be made of local materials and easily changed for the target species.

The use of artificial bait avoids the capture or purchase of live bait. Trolling is also an excellent auxiliary method and can be used as the vessel is going to or returning from other fishing grounds figure 2. Eligible areas include inshore or offshore waters, and target species may be pelagic or demersal.

Little labor is necessary in this fishing art. Sails are an idea] form of propulsion for this fishing method. A number of innovations can make trolling more efficient and save labor. Simple hand and electric reels can make work easier and allow more fish to be caught in a given tune. Large and small umbrella rigs permit the fishermen to have several hooks on a trolling line. For many species umbrella rigs are more attractive than conventional lures, perhaps because the it..

The fishing depth can be adjusted by changing sinker weights. The number of lines a vessel can troll can also be increased by towing two smaller boats to spread the lines over a larger area figure 2.

These are flat, small boards weighted with lead at the front edge. The depressor itself is towed by a line attached near its front edge. Besides submerging the line, the board also wobbles, so that the hook jumps or jigs. When a fish takes the hook, the board tilts and rises to the surface.

Another trolling variation, the fish kite, is popular in Mi- cronesia, Melanesia, and Indonesia. The kite is flown up to m behind the boat, and its tad! In jigging, the line must be jerked to pierce the fish. Generally, the sharp hooks are weighted so that when they "e pulled up, there will be sufficient momentum to penetrate the fish. In some cases, regular baited hooks are jigged manually or mechanically to attract attention to the bait.

Special reels can be used to impart a jigging action to the line figure 2. Rippers or jigs are especially used to catch siow-moving fish. They are also widely used throughout marine fisheries. The Norwegian Juksa-line catches cod by jigging, and the Turks jig for bluefish in the Bosporus.

Special hooks are used in east Asia and the Mediterranean to jig squid. The potential exists for significant expansion of squid jigging by light attraction. Jigging is a low-cost, low-energy technique that does not re- quire bait.

The live catch is Emily brought into the boat. At the same time, it is labor intensive and time consuming, unless rela- tively expensive jigging machines are employed.

Jigging requires knowledge of the local area to determine where and when it can be used. Seining Seines are long nets with meshes small enough to prevent the desired fish from gilling filtering nets. They are generally set in a semicircle and dragged over a smooth bottom by means of long ropes sweeps.

In this way, the fish are herded into the net and hauled onto the beach or on board. They are most often set from the boat. One end remains on shore, while the rest of the net is set in a curved path and brought back to the beach figure 2. Once the second drag line is delivered to shore, the hauling begins. The bottom and water surface act as natural barriers for the fish encircled in the net.

The wings may often be hundreds of meters long. Large beach seines, however, are costly, and their use is re- stricted to large stretches of smooth, shallow bottoms with fairly maid surf. Small two-man beach seines are often used for catching live bait or small fish figure 2.

These tend to have a uniform small mesh. Beach seines have the potential for increased motorization and mechanization. Shore-anchored pulleys, tractors, jeeps, or even animals could be used to make hauling easier. Boat Seines Boat seines are set and hauled from a boat. A vessel anchors one end of the seine and sails in a circle, releasing the net, and returns to the anchor.

The net is then hauled into the boat figure 2. With small seines, this fishing technique can be used by smaller vessels without mechanization almost anywhere there is a smooth bottom figure 2.

The high skill involved in net design and the cost of its construction are liabilities. Boat seines have the potential of bringing small-scale fisher- men to previously unexploited resources.

However, any introduc- tion of modern technologies motorization of the boat, roISe and net haulers, storage of nets and cables on reels that would enlarge the area covered and could increase the catch, involves capital investment and an increase in running costs. Purse Seines and Ring Nets Purse seines are characterized by a line at the bottom of the net that is used to close off this escape route figure 2.

One end is held on the beach while the other is rowed in a curve back to the beach and hauled in. The purse seine can be set with one or two boats and must be fished quickly.

Those that are operated with two boats are called ring nets. Light may also be used to attract the target species. Purse seines are highly mobile and can capture whole large.

Hauling can be done manually, and the catch is live. Nevertheless, purse seines are costly and require highly skilled operators. Purse seining with two boats ring netting enables small, artisanal fishing craft to take advantage of this method figure 2. Bottom Bawling Trawls may be towed behind one or two boats or, in shallow waters, even dragged by a fisherman figure 2.

Trawl nets generally have a cone-shaped body with a wide opening between two wings. In bottom trawling, the net is towed on the bottom in order to capture shrimp and demersal fish. Pair Trawling Pair trawling uses two small boats to tow the trawl, one on. FAO photo each side figure 2. Having two boats keeps the trawl net open. This method also permits boats with small 5 hp engines to trawl and allows small-scale fishermen to compete with larger trawlers.

With the same total horsepower, more fish can be caught with pair trawling than if a single boat tows the net. Whereas the noise from a single engine directly in front of the trawl net can frighten fish from the path of the net, the noise from two engines on either side of the opening will scare some fish towards the center, directly into the net.

Pair trawling has limitations. Two boats must cooperate and work as a team. The fishing area is limited to smooth bottoms. Even in ideal areas, the net can be damaged or lost on a wreck or a rock. The value of the catch must be at least equal to the sum of the value of the two vessels' catches if they fished alone.

If the boats have engines stronger than 8 hp. These lines are made of heavy rope and are towed on the bottom in front of the wings of the trawl net. They serve to scare fish from a wider area into the net. Single Boat Trawling A single vessel with an adequate power source may also tow a trawl, but otter boards or a beam are required to open the net horizontally.

Beam trawls are the simplest trawls and are used primarily to capture Catfish and shrimp figure 2. The horizontal opening for these nets is provided by a beam made of wood or metal that can measure up to 10 m in length. Smaller beans, about 2 m in length, are used with rowboats in Portuguese rivers.

Although small beam trawls might be used by artisanal fishermen, they obviously lack the fishing spread of larger trawls, which require power and mechanization. Otter trawling is a more complex fishing system. These trawI- ing nets have their horizontal opening maintained by the shearing. Demersal or pelagic species can be captured by this fishing method in shallow waters. Otter trawling gives fishermen broad access to marine re- sources. But the high costs, large energy requirements, and the specialized skills required to maintain the equipment and use it effectively make it feasible for small-scale fisheries only under very favorable conditions.

The minimum power for an otter trawling boat is hp with a relatively high gear ratio flow propeller rpm and a large propeller diameter to provide maximum towing power. Electronic Equipment Much marine electronic equipment was initially developed for military use in communications, navigation, and underwater re- connaissance during World War IT. Postwar growth in the elec- tronics industry resulted in lower costs for this type of equipment and ocean-going fishermen began to use it.

As costs decreased. Using two boats allows a wider area to be covered and makes it easier to keep the net open. An 8- to m pole beam is used to keep the net open horizontally to capture catfish or shrimp. Although probably still beyond the reach of most individual fishermen in developing countries, some of this equipment may be cost effective for shared use in villages or cooperatives.

Perhaps the most useful for nearshore fishermen would be aids to fish location. The simplest of these is an electronic ther- mometer. Seawater temperature can markedly affect fish-feeding habits, and in thermally stratified water, species may concentrate.

In addition to the value of know- ing absolute temperature and its relationship to fish feeding and depth, changes in temperature are also important. Seawater tem- perature can remain constant over a wide area; a change of a degree or even less can indicate an upwelling or current boundary where fish may cluster.

Stem thermometers that rely on liquid or metal expansion and contraction for temperature readings are not responsive enough for this application.

Simple digital readout electronic thermometers can display instantaneous temperature changes of tenths of a degree. Another valuable device Is an electronic depth recorder.

These can indicate water depth, bottom formations, and fish locations. Boats need travel no farther than is necessary to detect fish. Nets and lines can be set and hauled with greater efficiency. Rocky bottoms potentially damaging to trawls can be detected. The results of a properly used depth recorder can be dramatic and should have a direct and visible economic benefit. To use this equipment, a fisherman must install a transducer on the hull.

A method of installing this unit on temporary brackets has been developed to allow its ready transfer from vessel to vessel. Although excellent Loran and satellite electronic navigation aids are available, their costs are prohibitive. Where appropriate radio stations operate, inexpensive radio direction finders can be used to plot positions and plan courses.

Gear and methods are highly site specific. The fishing arts that have developed in a region are usually the best suited for the species and size desired, the given marine conditions, and the community's economy and structure.

New methods may often be inappropriate and rejected by local fishermen. Introduced gear may be too costly for the local economy to sustain. What appears to be economical to an outside observer is often unpossibly expensive for the fishing community unless increased credit is made available. Innovations should be tested on a pilot scale to ensure that they are economically viable.

Many coastal waters are overfished. Upgrading the gear and making it more efficient increases the risk of depleting the fish- ing stocks even more. Therefore, the introduction of any new gear or methods must be accompanied by proper monitoring and protection of the marine resources. More sophisticated fishing arts may require training for the fishermen.

At the same time, modifications in gear may necessi- tate simultaneous improvements in the design, power, and size of fishing vessels. Almost all marine electronic equipment requires 12 volts DC to operate, although current requirements are fairly low, less than 10 amps.

Because most of this equipment is not designed for user repair, maintenance is a more severe problem. The most practical approach is to minimize the number of different models in use. Research on simple methods for determining fish populations and their regenerative capacity could be very valuable.

New gear or methods could then be used without fear of overfishing. In situations where specific gear is potentially valuable but too costly for a fishing community, adaptive research on local manufacture using local materials could be an alternative. The use of fish-aggregating devices chapter 3 or light in conjunction with complementary traps or nets could improve the catch of specific sizes or species. Atlantic and Gulf Fishing Supply Corporation.

Miami, Florida, USA. Ben-Yami, M. Fishing with Light. Fishing News Books Ltd. Lana Fishing wilk Pole and Line. Brabant, J. Crossland, J. Doyi, B. Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Echo Sounding and Sonar for Fishing. Garner, John. Hoey, J. Shark longline fisheries: gear and production characteristics. Williams ed. Kumagai, S. Bagarinao, and A. A study on the milk- fish fry fishing gears in Panay Island, Philippines.

Laitin, J. The case for longlining. Lorimer, P. Net Mending and Patching. Motoh, H. Fishing gear for prawn and shrimp used in the Philippines today. Mutton, B. Nedelec, C. Olsen, D. Dammann, and D. A vertical longline for red snapper fishing. Rosman, I. Stewart, L. South Pacific Commission, Taiwan Fisheries Research Institute, Thomson, D. Fish Catching Methods of the World.

Fishing News Books, Ltd. Surrey, U. Yamaha Motor Company, Ltd. Yamaha Motor Co. Yamelu, T. Drew, J. Ben-Yami, 2, Dekel St. Rich Electronics, Inc. Rich, Jr. In developing countries, traditional fishermen are important food contributors, yet technological information and development assistance to third-world nations often focuses on agriculture and industrial fishing, without addressing the needs of independent, small-scale fishermen.

This book explores technological considerations of small-scale, primitive fishing technologies, and describes innovative, relatively inexpensive methods and tools that have already been successfully applied in developing countries.

It offers practical information about all aspects of small-scale fishing, including boat design and construction, fishing methods and gear, artificial reef construction and fish aggregating devices, techniques for coastal mariculture, and simple methods for processing and preserving fish once they are caught.

Fisheries Technologies for Developing Countries is illustrated throughout with photographs of the devices and construction methods described in the text. Based on feedback from you, our users, we've made some improvements that make it easier than ever to read thousands of publications on our website. Jump up to the previous page or down to the next one.

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Fisheries Technologies for Developing Countries Chapter: 2. Fishing Methods and Gear. Get This Book. Unfortunately, this book can't be printed from the OpenBook. If you need to print pages from this book, we recommend downloading it as a PDF. Visit NAP. Looking for other ways to read this? No thanks. Suggested Citation: "2. Fisheries Technologies for Developing Countries.

Page 50 Share Cite. Page 51 Share Cite. Quality of detail on this model is inconsistent. The landing barges are pretty good, the two helicopters are so-so, and the 40mm guns are pretty poorly modeled.

Overall, it makes a nice model, especially when some PE railings are added. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine Sep Can be built as a waterline model. This is a good kit. The hull above water is made of starboard and port parts with a flat bottom. Two pins extruding from the bottom can either be cut off or put into holes in the separate underwater part.

The flightdeck is in one giant part. Everything fits together wonderfully well. Minor error: the aircraft decals are for but, the funnel is of the rectangular post type. Building mine was a dream. The kit includes transparent parts for swimming pool roof and sports roof. To me, a large disappointment. Due to some error in design the front gun turret had not even room to turn. The kit is quite detailed but somehow it just don't look like the other Airfix kits and for example the masts are the thickest found in an Airfix kit.

This model was a disappointment to me. I felt that the Aurora kit was basically better overall because most of its flaws could be corrected easilier. This is not the case with the Airfix model.

First off while the main turrets are very well shaped and detailed they are a little too small and there still is not enough room for them to turn. Unlike the Aurora kit, you can't simply replace them with two from a Revell Scharnhorst or Gneisenau because as mentioned there isn't even enough room.

I also was extremely disappointed with the single 5. I expected the same level of detail as the mounts on the Narvik DD , which are beautiful.

Same goes for the 4. They are a little better, but again, not as good at similar mounts in the Airfix Prinz Eugen. I do not know if the 4. The superstructure was very detailed but the armored tower seemed too short. None of the range finders seemed right compared to pictures I have studied.

I do not believe they could be replaced with parts salvaged from other models due to size difference. Overall, I believe the engraved detail in very good but the layout out and scale problems however lower the overall quality.

The smaller Testors Graf Spee is a far better kit, if not the best. RDF , review dated 10 April It's a sound kit but it needs a lot of work to be perfect, the hawse pipes and breakwater needs to be completely rebuilt and lots of derrick and deck details need to be added but I can assure you that the end result is worth all the work.

Kit Background : This is the oldest injection-moulded plastic model of Hood. Since its release in , it has been periodically reissued a number of times.

The kit contains pieces and is a full-hull representation of Hood as she appeared in the mid s. It suffers from a lack of detail and from large, bulky features. As for the quality of he moulding, it is generally crisp, with a small amount of flash.

No sink holes were noted, but a few ejector marks were present. Hull: Correct in overall shape, taper and shear, with the exception of the torpedo bulges.

These are present, but do not correctly conform to the true shape of the ship's bulges. The hull also lacks an armour belt. Another odd feature are the open torpedo mantlets. Fortunately, most of these problems can be fixed with a combination of plastic strip stock, putty and a good deal of sanding. The deck planking is far too wide for the scale.

The deck machinery and features ventilators, capstans, winches, hatches are all moulded into the deck and are somewhat bulky for the scale. On the other hand, some items which were prominent on the real ship are not-so-prominent here. One such example is the forward break water.

Another deck planking problem is the forward Shelter Deck- on this model, there are planks. On the real ship, however, this area was painted metal.

Superstructure: Mostly accurate in general shape and layout. There are a few notable errors: Both funnels are completely missing their base structures.

They have venting around them, but are missing the small rectangular structures that the funnels were situated upon.

Another problem area are the batteries situated on each side of the ship. These areas are completely lacking in detail and accuracy. This can be corrected, but it will take a lot of work. Masts: Very thick and bulky. The starfish platforms are poorly done. These can be replaced with ultra-detailed photo-etch starfish by White Ensign Models.

Other: Boats are largely accurate. They could be a bit more detailed though. The same applies to the various rangefinders and sighting devices. These are mostly correct, but all are somewhat lacking in detail. One major problem to note here are the kit's painting instructions. Complete rubbish. Hood never had green bridge decks. Please be sure to throw them away and use our detailed Hood painting instructions instead.

Summary: A good kit for its day , but it looks its age. Fortunately, it can be built-up into a good respresentation of Hood with some aftermarket parts and a good deal of scratchbuilding. This kit can be found in man stores, or ordered from any of several online model retailers. It is also available directly from the Airfix website. I have a fair amount of sympathy for this kit, since it was the first kit that won me a prize in a model contest, many ages ago.

It represents the Hood somewhere between and The hull is quite nice, but the bilge keels are missing. The level of detail is pretty decent for its day. The planking on the deck was pretty impressive for its time.

The main turrets aren't too bad, but they need a bit of reshaping at the front. I don't like the way the lower parts of the superstructure are implemented. The bulkheads are attached to the deck. This can make both the deck and the bulkheads difficult to paint. Overall, I'd say it is pretty good for its age, and it can be fixed up pretty easily.

If built OOB, this kit will represent Hood as pre refit. Ship still has its 4. A little extra effort goes a long way on this model. Addition of side platforms on X turret, extra detailing on primary and secondary turrets are easy to add. Addition of PE a big help as always, but model will still look good with detailing and rigging.

Series 2, issued in The boxtop says the models are intended to " Happily, this was not the case! The kit consists two sprues containing 64 well molded grey plastic parts depicting the ship as she appeared at the time of her loss in May The model, though measuring a mere eight and one half inches in length, is accurately proportioned and packed with detail.

The hull, waterlined with a solid bottom, is correct in overall shape, taper and shear. The single-piece main deck is provided as a separate piece. Detail on the deck is excellent, including a multitude of hatches, bitts, vents, breakwaters, petite ground tackle, and some amazingly delicate deck planking. The raised planking is especially notable, some of the finest I've seen in any scale.

However, there is an odd discrepancy with the inclusion of torpedo lookout and searchlight platforms on the foremast. Although the fit of the model is correct for the Battle of the Denmark Strait, both these platforms had been removed before Thus the model is incorrect as is, although you could still use them if you make a few modifications to depict the ship earlier in her career.

Another inaccuracy is the shelter deck , depicted as a straight line rather than with the angular notches the structure actually had. This can be easily fixed, though. Armament is mixed. Main turrets are good, except that the barrels look too thin; I replaced them with hypodermic needles. The four inch twins are simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable. The 8-barrelled 2pdr pom-poms and UP projectors are very good, but the 0.

Other parts vary in quality from good to excellent; masts and cranes are proportional and accurate, and the fire control directors are first-rate.

Given the perennial popularity of the Hood in all scales, it is surprising that Airfix never reissued it Detail: medium - Appearance: good.

Was clearly the best Airfix ship when it appeared. Lots of very small parts. Side scuttles a bit ugly. Some of the portholes are a bit large, drill them out with a constant sized bit it has the "flash suppressors" on the main guns, should be sanded down and the bilge keels are too long, easily trimmed down but otherwise, a nice kit.

Series 6, ? A very nice kit with more deck details than any other Airfix ship. The camouflage scheme is from the first months of KGV's career. Very detailed. It portrays the ship more or less "as built", with UP launchers on B and Y turrets, and the aircraft catapult amidships.

The de-gaussing cable on the hull specific to the KGV herself is well done, but it must be removed if you want to convert the kit to portray another ship in the class. My real only criticism is that the 5. The deck details might be a little overdone, and they are difficult to paint. The kit dates back to the mid s. All of these were previously sold as individual kits except for the E-boats which I think were sold as a pair.

There is an instruction booklet containing all the assembly instructions and colour schemes detailed below. The painting instructions are fuller and more detailed than previously, and offer several variants, and are referenced to Humbrol paints.

Each type of ship has a descriptive text longer than that in the original kits, and there is an overview of the KM at the front. Decals are provided on quite a lavish scale but all feature the swastika-less version of the ensign.

Overall: an interesting idea and a bit of a cheap gamble for Airfix, given that they are all old kits , but they have made an effort to provide better instructions and more variety. It will be interesting to see if anyone has the space to make the obvious diorama of a Channel port.

It's only a shame that Heller never made the older destroyers and torpedo boats, to make the set really complete. JRC , review dated 15 October, Series 1, ; No of parts: 73; Guns elevate:? Later editions have Exocet lauchers included. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7. It's not bad. It's got a decent level of detail, and comes with a choice of 4. No Ikara launchers or Sea Wolf launchers, though.

Scores over the Matchbox Ariadne in every way, except for the lack of mine doors in the stern. Those are easy enough to cut into the plastic. I consider this to be the best of the passenger ship kits. Editor's Note: Series 1, Historical Ships. The forward missile launcher should be different from the other two.

Series 2, on box No of parts: 92; Guns elevate: yes. Detail: high - appearance: good LS. Much like the Manxman kit and a good companion to the other highly detailed Airfix kits like Prinz Eugen and Repulse. Detail on mine rails, gun shields, deck , bridge structures and torpedo tubes is excellent. Light AA weapons are poor and there some ejector pin marks in hard to fix places.

This model is of the flotilla leader Z Z28 was unique among the Narviks in having two superfiring main guns forward others had only one single - and later on most units a double turret and a large deckhouse and two superfiring guns aft all others had three guns aft, with two on the after deckhouse. Number of AA guns increased during the war. An interesting kit indeed. This kit is a joy to build. The seams are very nice and the engraved detail is nothing short of awesome.

The detail rivals that of the Repulse. The detail of the single 5. With some research and scratch building you could easily build a complete and very accurate flotilla using this kit. Generally sound but needs a lot of detailing. Guns are clumsier than the Hood's. The kit represents Nelson as she was in but sadly all the light AA batteries are missing! The latest one I bought in was actually in better shape than the one I bought some 15 years ago but the mold is now so old that some of the few details were lost.

There is a article how to convert the kit to a pre-war variant in "Scale Model International" March A bit lacking in detail, and the main turrets are the wrong shape, but you can make a decent model out of it. I suspect that they meant to portray the Nelson in , which could explain the lack of 20mm AA guns. The 40mm Bofors and 2 pounder "pom pom" AA guns are present. This Nelson is about average for the Airfix kits I've seen, with a rather waxy plastic and crude details.

There are some exceptions, e. Not as crisp as Repulse. Note that on some versions a confusing line on the instructions seems to indicate the platform with 2 x 40mm quads should be placed cantilevered from the top of the superstructure instead of on top of the conning tower. Scale Modeler magazine actually built theirs that way! The detail is great and the fit is quite nice except at the stern where a gap is left. It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame.

So if a later time is desired additional light AA guns must be added. The detail put into the 4. This is the only small scale with elevating 8" guns! Revell take note!!!! The 4. The superstructure very accurately scaled and while the Revell kits does a good job or accurately displaying the overall super structure, I personally believe this kit is superior to Revell's version.

First the flaws. Removing it is not the problem. It is the repair afterwards. I messed mine up on my first attempt. After you remove the molded on plastic. In photos of the ship, it appears a metal plate was actually mounted on the deck as a chain slip, so this corrects two errors. The side armor is wrong. First it is too narrow, too long and does not blend in correctly.

Fixing this is a real challenge. I left mine in hopes nobody smart enough would notice. Cutting it off and fabricating a new one would require thinning the sides dangerously. Bilge Keels. Way too thick. Sanding them off will penetrate the hull a little. Applying a thin piece of styrene strip to the inside of the hull covering the indention. After I sanded away the keel, putty and sanded it to shape. Just add thin styrene strip to replace the molded on keel.

As mentioned earlier, the fit at the stern is not good. The deck is to short and leaves a gap about a full millimeter wide. The bow fits a little better. Filling will be required to fix the stern. Now the good! So if a later time is desired light AA guns must be added.

I really like the effort put into the 4. This is the only small scale with elevating guns! The superstructure seems very accurate. I personally believe this kit to far superior to Revell's version. I emailed Airfix and there are apparently on plans to re-release this kit.

Because of the detail of this model and the after market products available you have the options of numerous variants. I discovered that the twin 5. First you have to cut off the barrels. I added. A little putty and sanding was required to finish the shape.

A friend has a great vacuum forming machine and in a jiffy I had ten other projects to triple 5. Other than this the ships structure is unchanged. Since the triple 6in turrets are a little lighter than the twin 8in ones the AA armament is a little heavier. Use the previous book reference. This kit begs to ask, what happened to the other kits of this era.

The Bismarck and Graf Spee are so poorly researched. I have a remark to RDF's review. One would reconsider aircraft catapults on Seydlitz CL. According to plans I have, there would have been two catapults, one between funnel and mast as in conventional Hipper-class heavy cruiser, and another one aft the mast.

Issued between and , the series was apparently not very successful as it was soon discontinued and none of the ships was ever reissued. That's a shame, because they were nicely done.

Though designed as a clip-together wargaming model, it is finely detailed and compares favorably with with many larger scale kits. Hull, superstructure, and funnel shapes are correct and capture the ship's elegant lines well. The waterlined hull particularly is well done, accurate in shape, taper and shear; better, in fact, than the earlier Hood or Bismarck units of the series.

There is even a degaussing cable! The separate single piece main deck is also well done with tiny hatches, vents, bitts, a breakwater, ground tackle Torpedo launchers are molded integrally with the deck, but in this small scale they look good. My only gripe with the deck is the total lack of planking detail, which is strange considering that the earlier Hood and Bismarck kits in the series had excellent planking. Even stranger is that planking is present on some of the superstructure decks!

Fortunately all this is not that visible once painted. Other odd design choices are evident with the armament. The same with the 37mm twins: outstanding on the Bismarck, mediocre on the Prinz Eugen. Go figure. Other parts are good to excellent. Masts, cranes, searchlights, and boats are good although there should be more boats , as are the spherical hooded 4m antiaircraft directors. The delicately rendered Even with some less than stellar design choices with the decks and armament, Airfix's little Prinz Eugen builds into an appealing, accurate rendition of that most graceful ship.

The only injection-molded model of this ship we're likely to see, so you have to work with it. Fortunately, you don't have to take it too far. The shapes look very good to me and the assembled hull looks positively huge , and there are no solid lifelines to remove.

Ship is in later configuration with stabilizer fins. Most of the windows on the superstructure are represented by simple raised squares; sand them off and make decals instead. The davits do not line up properly with the promenade windows, so fill the locator holes and place them manually boats should hang above prom deck window sections, with davits mounted in between window sections.

The boats look marvelous and are molded as open boats - consider making resin copies for your Revell Queen Mary. Throw away the kit decals, especially on the re-issue; the typeface for the name on the bow is way off.

Not a bad kit by any means, and looks easy to improve. Series 6, ; No of parts: ; Decals included. Participiated in the Falkland war. The model represents the ship in her original appearance, with the white funnel and without the later additions on Signal Deck. The problem is fit. There are many small, but annoying gaps that must be filled. The two hull halves do not align well.

It's not that hard to correct, but I've seen better. Still, it looks like this will be a very impressive model when completed. Detail: high - Appearance: very good. Portrays the ship in her final configuration. A real beauty. Wonderfully detailed. I did not have the fit problems that Leif had. This is arguably Airfix's best ship kit ever.

Now all we need is a Renown to go with her Well, it's not perfect but almost. There are minor fitting problems with the deck and some of the scuttles on the superstructure are missing, but otherwise it is just wonderful.

The detailing of the side armour can't be described, it has to be seen. And the deck has even the deck camber curvature! The model and camouflage represents Repulse as she was when she sunk Dec Really an excellent kit.

OK Terrible superstructure. The deck houses including the platforms are in two parts, the boundary goes right in the middle of the platforms. Clumsy masts. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine May Put plastic card on top and sides to represent box shape; etch the cell divisions.

This kit was so close to being good. The rest of the ship is not bad. The ship is missing all it's Whip antennas. This may seem trivia, but think. First there are the easiest things to add to almost any kit.

Second, they are pretty easy to research and last; when you see a picture of any ship you can't help but notice all the antennas everywhere! It's only a minor nuissance. I do like the hull. Bilge keels are nicely molded in. The separate propeller guards look nice. If you're looking to do conversions, the hull's got the later bow-mounted SQS sonar dome as opposed to the earlier keel mounted style That's fine for the Rommel, or the other Bundesmarine Adams class, but if you're going to try to convert it to a USN Adams class, then you'll have to either do DDG through 24, or perform some major surgery on the bow.

I missed that one! As Randy points out above, this kit has lots of conversion potential. Editor's Note: portrays the Royal Sovereign, possibly as she appeared in This miniscule Santa Maria molding originated as a Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" release in ; it was among the first injection molded plastic model ships ever marketed.

Airfix also issued it in without the bottle as the second unit of their Series 1 "Historical Ship" kits. It was issued again by Addar as one of their "Super Scenes" in a bottle in In the early s Airfix also reissued the kit, this time reworked with a full hull and stand replacing the sea base and acetate ratlines.

This revised version was produced in the s by Heller kit , in brown plastic as well. Out of production as of , the kit can still be found fairly easily on online auctions and at model swap meets. Columbus' Santa Maria Holy Mary is one of the world's most famous ships, but her exact appearance remains a matter of conjecture and debate. Some experts believe the Mariagalante "Party-Girl Mary", the ship's original name before Columbus changed it more the politically correct Santa Maria was a Portuguese style nao , others that it was a carabela caravel.

The model's hull shape matches that reconstruction fairly well. For a kit this old and this small, the little Santa Maria is not bad. The separate one-piece deck has delicate raised plank markings, stairs, and a hatch. The hull and deck are simplified, but the details present are well rendered and the unit is so tiny that the effect is good.

Unfortunately, everything above the deck is out of scale. The mainmast, for example, is some 25 scale feet too high.

The too tall, too thick masts support massive wind-filled sails that overpower the little hull. The flags printed on a separate sheet of paper are also too large. If you want an early pre-Atlantic bow Scharnhorst, this is the one.

Kit dates back to about This is Scharnhorst as built, not in WW2 shape. I bought a new one three years ago and converted it to Gneisenau The kit was in the same good shape as my first in or The bilge keel is missing like in most old Airfix kits. I have two of these and in both cases I was not particularly pleased.

My problem probably stems from my earlier exposure to the Airfix Repulse , Narvik and Prinz Eugen models. The last being my stimulus for purchasing the Scharnhorst. I expected this model to have all the excellent products gun mounts of the previous two German models.

That of course was not the case. So lets start there. All the secondary and AA gun calibers are way below Airfix standards. How this happened has to be a mystery. On the other hand the main guns are very nice. A little void of detail but nice depending on the source, maybe even better than the Revell kit.

The 01 level seems to have an excessive amount of overhang. From the photos I have seen, this feature seems to be exaggerated. The deck engraving here seems a bit crude as well. The entire superstructure seems to have suffered the exact same fate during development at that of the Graf Spee. It seems squat and out of proportion to the rest of the ship. The Scharnhorst class was a sleek and beautiful design, this is not evident in this kit the, to the degree of the Revell model.

Over all the kit may actually fall into the poor category with the Bismarck. There's a good article on building and converting this kit in the June issue of Airfix Magazine, pg GOOD I like this one. It's pretty good for its day. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but the basics are all there. The bilge keels are missing, as are two of the four propellers. Superstructure levels are molded into the decks below them, which can make painting difficult.

Lattice masts are not that great, photo-etch would be better but OK for their day. This ship also has some excellent modification potential. Airfix Magazine's March issue has a good article on conversions. Guns and many superstructure parts can be obtained from an Airfix Belfast.

Like the H. This is a model of Tiger before the conversion. Lines of rafts included. This is the Bismarck model with two torpedo-tubes added, no other changes. At least sometimes, packages came with two ships.

Series 1, Issued as a pair, each Tribal consists of 20 cleanly molded gray plastic parts. As with others in the series, the waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck. There is even part of the undercut below the stern, as if the pattern maker had begun to produce a full hull model and then abandoned the effort part way through.

Otherwise things look good. There are simplifications one would expect in this scale such as the molded to the deck torpedo tubes and solid open bridge , but there are no basic accuracy problems.

Surface detailing is delicate and restrained. The four 4. This is a nice little kit, and one of the very few injection plastic destroyers ever issued in this scale. The first big Airfix ship. The kit is sound, but low in detail.

Needs a lot of detailing to look good. The mast and the guns are clumsy. Detail is decidedly lacking. No bilge keels. Good painting instructions would have helped. This kit is said to be about 22 inches long when complete. It is said to portray the ship in This kit represents the Warspite after her refit. The biggest problems are the bow, kit has a bulb bow instead of a ram bow and the quarterdeck.

Once again, there is the problem of the "flash suppressors" on the main guns. Sand them off. Superstructure is decent, gun turrets are nice, and the casemate 6" guns are fragile, but nice. A very good model for its time. Series 9, Classic Historical Ships Said to portray the ship in I have one half built, it's not too bad, needs some filling etc.

Includes a Sherman tank from the regular Airfix line. The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. Editor's Note: Presumably a close relative of the Gearing, below. For comparison, check out the Skywave Sumner class. Not the very best I've ever seen, but reasonably good, and the price is right.

Superstructure detail is a bit lacking, but the hull is pretty nice. Watch out for sink holes, though! Like its Skywave competitor, this kit give the builder the option of using either the second set of torpedo tubes aft, or a third 40mm quad mount. Unlike the Skywave kit, it gives the builder the option of building the "DDR" radar picket variant.

This is a very basic model, with very minimal detail. There are about 50 pieces in the kit, and the instructions are a one page blow up diagram. The instructions have some suggestions for ease of assembly.

The kit does not include decals. The basic model is molded as a waterline hull, with the deckhouses and depth charge racks, molded in place. The superstructure and bulkheads have absolutely no detail to it, just a series of flat side moldings. There are anchor chains molded in place, and the stern 20mm tub, but that's it. The builder must add the upper decks to the deckhouses, as well as the gun tubs.

The dual 5" mounts aren't too bad, and the dual 40mm are also finely cast. But they're too tall. They stand too high on their pedestals. The tops of the guns are level with the midway point of the funnels. And the single 20mm are also too tall. Those stand just about as tall as the dual 5" mounts. It is recommended that they be shortened to be less conspicuous or pilfer them from a Skywave set.

The tripod mast amidship is cast very finely, as is the mainmast. But the main mast's radar was cast as a see-through piece, and in this scale, it's very difficult to make it realistic. In addition, while the 5" director base is OK, the radar screens are even taller than the 5" mount.

Lastly, the torpedo mounts are cast pretty well, and one mount even has the 5" flash protector housing. Overall it's not a bad kit, and could use some dressing up with a brass set. But it's nowhere near as detailed as the Skywave Gearing class destroyer. Looking at the hulls side by side, the freeboard on the Albatross hull looks better. On the Skywave hull, it's pretty shallow.

Also, thesheer line on the Albatross hull is more pronounced, whereas that on the Skywave hull is more gentle. The Skywave hull is generally a flatter hull. Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Skywave Gearing class. Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. From about to , AMT was owned by Matchbox, and issued a few Matchbox kits under their own label.

After a confusing period of lease arrangements, Round 2 Corp. AMT plastic car models still show up in hobby shops, but they are manufactured in China. Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. This is a reissue of the s Matchbox kit of Exeter as she appeared during her famous encounter with the Graf Spee off the Rio de la Plata in Like its Matchbox predecessor, this kit is molded in two colors, a dark green and a light grey.

Moldings are sharp with most detail raised. Unlike the Japanese waterline series kits of the era, the hull is split into right and left halves, with the decks and base plate separate. This arrangement unfortunately leaves a long, prominent seam where the main deck meets the hull. Worse, the thin, slender hull sides are vulnerable to warpage Once these challenges are addressed, though, the hull looks very good.

Detail is decent with the multitude of portholes on the hull represented as tiny raised circles. The kit also captures the distinctive forward knuckle pretty well, a feature often missed.

Superstructures, especially the aft superstructure and hangar, are a bit simplified and almost bereft of detail, but the open sides on the bridge are well represented. Small parts vary in quality. The anchors, secondary guns and masts are rather nice, but the crane, Walrus aircraft, floats, davits and boat mountings are mediocre to poor. I would also have preferred some depiction of planking on the main deck, which is completely smooth.

Still and all, the kit assembles into a good representation of Exeter. The Axxx serial numbers look like they are out of a catalogue, and do not represent the letter codes on the model boxes. The numerals are of course correct. I don't understand why, on destroyers, the kit instructions mostly do not agree with the colour instructions Aoshima must have the lowest standard of quality control of any Japanese model firm.

US importers should take this into account when pricing the kits! I cannot agree more with the GH's comment above. The price-to-value ratio is just too high for most Aoshima kits. It seems only worth it, if the kit is the only one for a particular subject you are looking for. Not the greatest things you've ever seen, but not the worst either.

Amagi was doomed to never saw combat, except on the receiving end of USN airpower. She was bombed during outfitting and rolled over during an aerial attack in late July Unlike the Pit-Road kit, Aoshima's kit is based on the older Unryu kit with minor modifications. Fine Molds has made a separate photo-etch set to enhance the details. Editor's Note: See also notes under Hatsuharu-class.

FAIR Good hull and superstructure. Lots of flash, and some heavy and light AA guns were not fully formed. Discard twin 25mm. Trim main gun barrels and replace masts. Will make a good model. Fit is late war. Note there has been an announcement by Aoshima of a newly tooled Bismarck to replace the above kit sometime in April of The supposed stock number is It can't help but be better than this kit.

This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful.

There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both.

The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad. The model depicts Chitose in her seaplane tender configuration before she was converted to a CVL in Above average for Aoshima, this kit is comparable to contemporary offerings by Hasegawa or even some of the less inspired Tamiya efforts.

The hull shape is good, with convincingly replicated portholes and anti torpedo blisters on the sides. Decks have delicate linoleum retaining strips, ground tackle, and various other details accurately molded in. An interesting feature is alternate stern parts to depict either the as built standard stern or the special modified opening stern fitted to Chiyoda to deploy midget submarines. Chitose probably didn't have this modification, but the stern and a minisub are included anyway.

These flush-decked ships had quite a bit going on topside with ventilators, boats, cranes, catapults, seaplanes, and assorted plane handling gear in evidence. All of this was fairly well designed with a minimum of seams and, rare for Aoshima, crisp molding with only a few sink marks!

The foredeck and fantail are separate parts, but they fit fairly well so this doesn't create any problems. The bridge structure is especially good, with four well fitting levels and even a representation of windows.

Smaller parts are nothing special, but acceptable. Recent releases have contained Leviathan upgrade sets which include much improved weapons, aircraft, searchlights, boats and other parts which make this basically good kit even better. You can spot the new issues by the ill-fitting box; Aoshima deepened the lower box to accomodate the extra sprues, but the original smaller boxtop is retained, leaving a gap at the bottom.

I built my Chitose in the days before photoetch, but another worthwhile upgrade would be the Gold Medal Models photoetch IJN Auxiliary Ship set which replaces many of the injection molded masts, cranes, catapults, and girders so prominent on this ship. This set, complementing the competently rendered basic kit parts, could make this a really standout model. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults.

Primarily used to transport aircraft. All three carriers of the class conversion were sunk by US subs. Nice hulland superstructure, nice coamings. Superstructure is undetailed, all AA guns are oversize and should be replaced by Leviathan sets. Main gun barrels need to be cleaned up. Light AA around bridge is wrong, should be two pairs each position not just one. Likewise, two twin AA needed extra aroundfunnels. Otherwise, model accurately represents Fuso in The box art shows the ship correctly, interestingly.

Presumably, this kit has been issued as:. Good basic hull, but lots of sink holes to repair. Deck good without raised painting lines. Coaming thin enough, but guns poor.

Luckily 2 Leviathan sets provided to replace all small parts AA guns, searchlights, boats etc. Overall shape and guns OK, octuple 2 pdr pompoms are trash. Some sink holes, easily filled, and except for masts all parts are acceptable. Flash is also easily removed. OK Nice hull and superstructure. Replace all small parts with Leviathan sets. Redo masts. Torpedo tubes are poor, as are all gun barrels. Kit represents ship late in war.

Sister ships Kuma and Nagara are also available in different fits. Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit.

Most parts are provided in medium gray plastic with clear parts for windows and a black sprue for the display base. A small sheet of photo etch is provided for jackstaffs and platform supports, no photo etch for cranes, catapults, rails or other details is provided.

Like Hasegawa and Fujimi, Aoshima has gotten into the supplementary parts business and provides at extra cost photo etch sets to further detail this kit. In addition the kit also provides a flag sheet, poly caps for rotating guns, anchor chain and some metal screws to fix the finished model to a base.

All parts are clean and crisply molded with excellent surface detail. This too is a first rate kit that will please just about any modeler. The deck is broken into pieces that conform to the varied heights of the hull halves so joints should not be a problem. Painting will be more difficult than a Fujimi kit as much of the deck detail is molded on.

Hull is divided into two halves and uses a bracing system with traverse bulkheads similar to those found in the Hasegawa and Fujimi kits with one critical difference. Provision has been made to waterline this vessel.

Incised lines go across the hull pieces at the waterline allowing the modeler to easily cut the lower hull off.

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