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Bluewater Sailing Techniques Part using a dinghy For most amateurs, plywood is the material of choice. Plywood is one of the cheapest and easiest building materials, one that the average do-it-yourselfer is both familiar and comfortable with. Plywood is also, pound for pound, stronger than steel. Because of its high strength to weight, plywood construction yields a boat that is much lighter [ ]Estimated Reading Time: 8 mins. The usual way to test glue quickly for waterproof is to boil it for an hour. Culler said something like "If you're going to boil your boat, don't use Weldwood" and was widely quoted thusly, including by Harold Payson who has done more to educate us about plywood boats than anyone. Jan 23, �� During resin testing from the manufacturers, they coat a piece of ply with myboat269 boatplans it tack (not cure) then glass a layer of csm on the wood. myboat269 boatplans full cure they use pliers and try to pull the glass form the wood. then they see what has failed.
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However, the accepted standard for such a glue is one whose bonds will survive a boil test. How many boats are ever subjected to boiling water conditions?

None I know of. Fact is, for generations, countless plywood boats have been glued together successfully with low-cost powder-water mix plastic resin glue a urea-formaldehyde product. But it will survive hundreds of consecutive cycles of immersion in water at room temperatures. The point is, Interior grade plywood is not rated for exterior or marine use where such panels may be exposed to moisture because grading standards permit non-waterproof glues in their manufacture.

However, does this mean that such a panel might fail if exposed to exterior or marine conditions? Perhaps not if it is assembled with a highly water-resistant glue such as plastic resin.

Besides, the practice is penny-wise and pound-foolish. For structural members, stick to either Exterior or Marine panels. But I think this is too rigid a rule. The important quality separating Marine grade from Exterior panels is the quality and soundness of the inner plies and their construction both are made with waterproof glues as noted above.

With the Marine panel, there should be no major voids or surface defects, and inner veneer joints if they occur should be tightly fitted. You might be able to save some bucks by using Exterior plywood for planking curved areas. But the problem with lower-quality panels is that you may not always see the voids. And if your panel does break while you are installing it due to hidden voids, you will have to replace it with another, thus making the cost about comparable to what you would have spent on the better Marine panel in the first place.

You may have to make some repairs to the panel e. But in flatter hull areas such panels will suffice for most boats. Exterior panels with any major defects repaired when possible can usually also be used for most internal members throughout a boat without problem for such items as transoms, gussets, bulkheads, etc.

But since the boat will probably by sheathed with fiberglass, some builders use the C-side outside and fill all the defects with resin putty prior to fiberglass application; they become invisible once painted. On smaller, simpler, low-powered boats without a lot of curvature, I see nothing wrong with this practice, and again, have not heard of such a boat disintegrating over time because of it.

A: We generally recommend covering all plywood boats with fiberglass no matter how small. While some complain of an increase in weight, this is seldom more than an ounce or two per square foot of area in the typical application. Then too, even lightweight coverings say 4 ounce cloth are better than nothing. When I speak of covering the outside of plywood boats with fiberglass, I use the term generically; you can use other fabrics such a Dynel or polypropylene, but fiberglass gives the best combination of price, ease of application, ready-availability, and protection in my opinion.

Whichever fabric you select, the reasons for applying the covering are the same; added abrasion resistance, improved durability, extra reinforcing for finish coatings especially at joints , reduced maintenance, better appearance, and to help insure against leaks.

Thus sheathings should be considered as basically cosmetic coverings; their intent is NOT to add strength. In fact, plywood is far stiffer than fiberglass. Hull strength comes from the plywood hull structure itself, and with proper design and construction, should prove more than adequate.

Glen-L carries epoxy , fiberglass cloth and application materials. A: If it is made with Douglas fir a reasonably tough material , surface checking and wavy surfaces will soon occur even if painted. These will be very difficult to alleviate even if the boat gets painted each season. Other plywood types with a more uniform grain pattern will fare better in this regard, but these will still require routine coating applications.

And because many species of plywood are not as tough as fir, they will more easily suffer damage without sheathing. If you absolutely insist on not sheathing your plywood boat, consider using medium-density overlay MDO panels. These still require routine coating, but the overlay prevents surface checking and presents a smooth paint-ready surface.

These do cost more and may not be readily available, however. Q: Epoxy resins sound great but they cost too much. Can I use polyesters for sheathings instead? A: We quit offering polyester resins for sheathing application years ago simply because we no longer believed in them anymore for this purpose.

Finish results with either otherwise appear the same, but polyesters are less flexible and resilient so tend to crack more easily over time. When this occurs, water can creep behind the sheathing and cause problems. As for the encapsulation process where all wood surfaces inside and out get coated, do NOT substitute polyesters this way in place of epoxies. See the epoxies available from Glen-L. A: Because the stresses on a plywood boat are ultimately transferred to joints in the hull, a hard-setting glue rather than a flexible mastic, for example is required.

As a result, glue choices are few. But as discussed above, plastic resin glues can work successfully in plywood boats for all practical purposes. Currently resorcinol costs more than epoxies, and offers no benefits over plastic resin glue in my opinion. Unlike epoxies, both need well-fitted joints, specific limited temperatures, heavy clamping pressure, and leave colored glue lines. This uses a powder-water mix along with a second liquid component, dries clear, and has some gap-filling properties.

Once popular with kit airplane builders, it may still be available from suppliers in that field. Q: Can I increase fiberglass thickness in order to get by with thinner plywood or compensate for lower quality plywood?

Primarily it involves the fallacy that plywood is weaker than, and inferior to, fiberglass. Keep in mind that while fiberglass is strong in tensile strength, it is not very stiff. Conversely, plywood is actually stronger on a weight basis in both tension and compression.

More to the point, the modulus of elasticity stiffness is actually much higher for plywood than fiberglass for the same thickness. Then too, for some reason many who ask this question think fiberglass is lighter and will thus save weight. This myth is quickly dispelled when a piece of each material gets thrown into a pond of water and the fiberglass sinks like a stone while the plywood floats.

So the simple answer is that if you reduce plywood thickness and make up the difference with fiberglass laminate, you get not only a more flexible panel, but one that weighs a lot more. It will also add considerably to your cost and effort.

And if this question is asked because thicker panels are not available, the answer is to use a double thickness of plywood rather than attempt to make up the difference with fiberglass. Environmental and economic factors, coupled with very modest demand should warrant even higher prices in the eyes of producers. On a cost per square foot basis, many common materials are considerably more expensive than plywood, such as carpet and resilient floor coverings.

Compared to all the other boatbuilding materials an amateur may use, only steel is cheaper than sheet plywood. A: This is generally poor practice in the framed plywood boat for several reasons. First, a main reason for using solid lumber for frames is that grain gets oriented in the direction we want for strength. If plywood is used for frame members instead, because of the alternating grain direction of the plies, there is no strength in those veneers in the cross-grain direction.

In other words, a plywood frame will need to be nearly double the thickness to have the same strength see Fig. The Drake Raceboat Series. Deblois Street Dory. Model Boats. Vivier Boats. Storer Boat Plans. About us. What's in a boat kit? Drawing Board. Boats For Sale. Pricing on all kits. How do I order? Order Form. Contact us. The Plywood Kit Package. Precut kits provide all the marine plywood parts of a boat, precision cut and delivered to you Includes the strongback, molds, and other building jig materials The plywood kit is the bread-and-butter of a Chase Small Craft kit.

Learn More about the Plywood we use. Shipping notice Commercial freight shipping is to a business with a loading dock or fork truck that is open regular business hours and does not need a delivery appointment Residential freight shipping is to a residence and includes a phone call from the shipper to make a delivery appointment during regular working hours not weekends or holidays As a 4x8 pallet is too large for a liftgate trailer or a portable forktruck, the pallets must be broken open and unloaded sheet by sheet.

Sheet Layout for Goat Island Skiff. Echo Bay Dory Skiff kit in the shop. Planking for a kit cut with NC Scarf. NC Scarf being glued up. Strongback components for a Deblois Street Dory.

CNC cutting. Deer Isle Koster Planking. Ready to go. Goat Island Skiff kit. Strongback components. More strongback components. Various components. You can see planking center , MDF strongback components right and molds upright in the back.

Pallet jack. A small amount of scrap.

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