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The challenge and their delicious fillets kick thousands of anglers into gear. Learning how to catch Walleye is a life long pursuit. This in-depth article is curated for folks who understand the basics of fishing and would like to learn how to fish for Walleye.

If you have never fished before I highly recommend starting with Fishing for Beginners. A solid spinning combo is your first purchase to start fishing Walleye. A typical Medium Power Ft.

However, more finesse tactics like jigging and rigging live bait are best served under a Medium Light power rod. If you can afford to own both, you can execute two approaches with ease. Use the Medium power rod for artificial approaches like Crankbaits and Soft Plastics, switch to the Medium Light power for live bait. Our team uses our Multi-Species Combo as their primary rod and reel for most of our days on the water.

You will be able to easily fish both Live Bait and Artificial directly to your Mono. Fluoro has no stretch so you can accurately judge bites, and it is virtually invisible underwater. Braid and tie on a 12 Lb. Fluorocarbon leader. In my experience, Braid has offered a smoother, more accurate cast vs. The Bassmaster Blog has more advanced information on Fishing Line if you want to dive deeper.

Live Bait is the key to bountiful Walleye trips. Anyone who is just starting out should default to Live Bait as Walleye are generally more finicky and complicated to catch versus the typical Freshwater fish. You want all the cards in your favor to start getting on fish. There is a time and place for Crankbaits and Soft Plastics, albeit these are typically more advanced and are generally used to weed out the eater Walleye and target trophies.

Minnows are the most popular bait option for Walleye Anglers, I have found consistent success with Shiner and Flathead Minnows. The second most popular option is Leeches , typically in the Large to Jumbo sizes. These are a great option in Walleye dominant bodies of water, however, in smaller bodies of water where Perch, Panfish and Bass populations are robust, your Leech will be the victim of theft.

This can be true for Nightcrawlers as well, however rigging them to worm harness spinners lengthens their profile which sorts through the pests. Minnows and Leeches can be jigged, rigged, or floated on a Slip Bobber.

Full Nightcrawlers are typically saved for spinner rigs but can also be a great float option. For more information on how to use live bait in various Freshwater fishing scenarios check out our post Live Bait Fishing. Jigging is the most popular technique for targeting Walleye, we will cover this tactic in more detail near the end. To jig you will need jig heads.

For jigging live bait, it is critically important to use Fireball style jigs. These are Walleye specialized jig heads that have no lead barb on the base of the jig and the hook shank is short with a wide gap. You tip your jig by the lips of your Minnow or the head of your Leech so they can panic lively as you fish.

Chartreuse is my go to color for Live Bait jigging, however I always have some glow colors as well for late evening and night bites. Barbed Jigs do have an important spot in your arsenal for Soft Plastics. That is what the lead barb and long shank is molded for on all the popular jigs you see. Barbed Jigs are commonly used for all Freshwater species, their size should correspond to the Soft Plastics you are using. Your plastic should be fully secured, covering the barb, and the shank should be long enough to exit the plastic with a gap long enough to get a good hook set.

Once again Chartreuse is my go to, but I like to use White jig heads on Swimbaits in Pearl to match the Baitfish as closely as possible. Whether drifting by boat or casting off the dock, Walleye Rigs are next in your line up. Rigs are typically the default when the Walleye bite is timid and jigging presentations are too aggressive. All three are methodically used to cover large expanses of water, but each tactic differs.

I highly recommend this set-up as the primary tactic for anglers just getting started on Walleye. Slip Bobbers allow you to set your bait at any depth, offering the most natural presentation, while still covering water. Thread the Slip Tie onto your line first and pull it in place. Thread the Bead, then the Float and tie on your Hook. Add a 7 Split Shot about a foot above the hook, and clip the ends of the Slip Tie down.

Let your line out and adjust the depth of the tie until your bait is a foot above the bottom and your Slip Bobber is upright. Let the wind or current take your float, which will gradually drift your bait over a greater area. When jigging is not producing this is a go to for rocky or hard bottoms. This creates a very natural struggle as the Baitfish or Leech is treading against the slow drag. If no chop is available, use a Trolling Motor at the lowest setting, or cast and retrieve.

A more advanced tactic, Spinner Rigs are beaded blade rigs that can sport a single hook for trolling Minnows and Leeches, or a double-hook harness to sport a full Nightcrawler. Trolling involves running your lure or rig roughly yards behind the boat at low speeds, preferably with a Trolling Motor.

The later is my recommendation, I like a Perch color blade for clear water and an Orange blade for stained. These are usually trolled with a Bottom Bouncer in Oz. Spinners are a flashy way to cover a lot of water, I have found them effective during the warm summer months on Mud Flats or Sunken Reefs when Walleye are spread out across mid-lake. I recommend starting out with Live Bait, either jigging or rigging, to get your hands on some fish first. Here are some of the most historically popular lure options for Walleye.

If you want to fish fast and avoid keeping bait alive this is your primary option. I really like natural colors like Black, White and Brown. Tails tipped with Best Small Pontoon Boats For Fishing Youtube Chartreuse in these colors are effective in stained water. Barbed Jigs. Jig, drag, or swim these along the bottom. Many of these techniques produce about a foot or so off the bottom.

Walleye Crankbaits are predominantly known for their trolling applications, typically behind planar boards to spread multiple lures apart and to avoid the commotion generated from the boat and motor. A deep diving Crankbait that drives Ft. These should be trolled along expansive Flats and Reefs during the summer months. Trolling requires a boat and is somewhat advanced, but I recommend having a Crankbait in your arsenal if you are a shoreline angler.

These lures are great for searching out Walleye, then alternating to a more targeted approach, like a Slip Bobber Rig, once you can zone in. They will also catch a fair share of Pike and Bass which makes for exciting evenings on the dock. Known for their effectiveness in Rivers, the vibrating ring worm is a go to for big Walleye in fast moving current.

Getting the attention of Walleye in stained, fast moving water can be challenging. The worms top heavy design lets the tail end float up when sitting on the bottom. Pausing on the retrieve sparks the majority of my bites. I like to rip these upward and let them sink. Many times dragging, swimming or regular jigging along the bottom is the ticket instead. Experiment until you spot a pattern. I like to use Shads when I can locate schools of Baitfish.

During the Mayfly Hatch when Baitfish are near the surface I will swim the Shad through the upper half of the water column. Beware, there will be a mixed bag of species in this approach. The general rule of thumb for Paddle Tail Shads is to match-the-hatch so stick with natural colors like Pearl, Shad, Smelt etc.

This is what you will primarily tie onto your Slip Bobber Rig. Most Rigs come pre-tied with gunsmoke or bronze colored hooks, if your using minnows or leeches it may be worth the effort to replace them with Red Octopus Hooks. Bronze Baitholder hooks are a classic and work well when using Nightcrawlers. If you are balling them up you can get away with a single 2. This is a classic approach, but I like to use 2 x 6 Baitholders to harness my worm, elongating it while covering up as much Hook as possible.

Try both approaches. These shoe shaped Sinkers let your rigs drag across the bottom at a reduced rate of snagging. You will get snagged sometimes, but this is a greatly reduced occurrence compared to a regular Split Shot. The Split Shot will give enough pull to stand your Bobber upright and reduce the tension needed for Walleye to take the bait.

These are an essential component for Live Bait and Spinner Rigs because they secure your leader to the main line and allow the rig to rotate without twisting the main line. Without Swivels your rigs tangle with your main line, losing you fish. Go for the smallest you can, a 12 Snap Swivel will do the trick. While Snap Swivels make it easy to switch baits, do not use them directly on your main lure. Added hardware is disturbing and reflects light, reserve Snap Swivels for rigs with leaders.

Locating Walleye is the most difficult part of fishing for them. Walleye are generally deeper than 10 Ft. The keys to finding Walleye are their relation to the structure of the lake, what types of cover they use, and how water temperature and light conditions affect their feeding habits. Targeting structure is the primary factor in finding Walleye.


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