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Heavy Duty Portlights & Boat Windows | Freeman Marine

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If you have an account, sign in with your email address. To cut the openings I chose to use the NFM template as my router guide and use my Ryobi laminate trimmer with a bearing guided flush cut bit. Using a jig saw, hand saw or sanding drums just seemed like an awful lot of work, though some have actually done it this way. Just cut a section then move the clamps. I was able to cut an entire port with only three clamp moves and the template stayed put.

The more clamps you use the less risk you will have of the jig moving. As evidenced by the photo, using the flush cut bit and the NFM template as a guide, leaves a perfect cut that was smoother and cleaner than the original factory cut openings..

I actually got rid of my big shop vacs and now have three of these little 6 gallon models. One for the barn, one for the garage and one for working on boats.

This makes using a cumbersome shop vac a pleasure. The home attachments are better too. The horse hair brush pictured is one of my favorites. Within 25 minutes I had totally cleaned the interior of all the routing dust with the horse hair brush and the central vacuum hose. The base of my Porter Cable router was just a bit large for cutting these port openings and a battery operated laminate trimmer was better suited to this awkward task.

Unless you have lots of flat cabin side real estate on your particular boat I would suggest using a laminate trimmer as opposed to a router. The base of a laminate trimmer is nice and small and it works very well in tight spaces.

The cabin liner on the inside of the boat interfered with Led Anchor Lights For Boats 700 the laminate trimmer base and this is why I chose to cut from the outside. Once adjusted for proper depth of cut the guide bearing rides along the surface of the template and the blade cuts the fiberglass. I advise having a shop vac on board for this job.

No matter how you try and contain the dust it makes a mess. TIP: Remove your interior cushions before doing this job or mask off the interior with plastic. This article was even written well before Li-Ion batteries came out and this little trimmer worked well even without a Li-Ion battery.

I have yet to kill one of these budget level tools, and I actually use some of the Ryobi stuff professionally. This photo shows the completed port opening after moving the clamps to complete the full circle. It matches the Template perfectly. On these ports, using the butyl, it is very, very difficult to tighten them down all the way at once.

I tightened the ports over two days, which is short enough so my polysulfide sealant did not fully harden, but long enough to fully compress the butyl. Here is my explanation of why I do it the way I do:. The idea that tightening a fitting all the way down squeezes out all the sealant is just not true.

Take for example the aluminum valve cover on the Volvo 5 cylinder engine used in the V series and others. This valve cover uses no gasket and only a thin layer of Permatex Silicone is required to seal it. You apply the Permatex, install the valve cover, and torques the bolts. Valve cover gaskets are under positive crank case pressure and deck fittings or ports are not. I have used the above method bevel then tighten at once on underwater fittings as well and still never had a leak.

Using Bed-It Tape will completely eliminate the need to use both a sealant and a tape. Bed-It Tape is also specifically formulated to resist cold flow or creep in warm temps. Bed-It Tape was specifically formulated for bedding marine deck hardware, after this article was written back in Here is a close up of the beveling or chamfering.

It runs all the way around the port and around each bolt hole. Every bedded fitting on the entire boat is, or will be, as I get to them, bedded using this method. Most times I just use a drill and countersink bit but for big holes like this a Speckled Paint For Boats 700 laminate trimmer is a good option.

When I routed the holes using the NFM template I made sure it was line up parallel with the cabin top. Before applying the butyl tape I made sure to line up the ports and make sure they were level by using my combination square. Once they were level I tightened down hard on the clamps making sure to use a block of wood on the inside to prevent scratching the port.

Checking the left side of the port for level. You can see, when the camera pulls away, how slight the bevel is. Climb the ladder and use the old-school MK I eye ball as your determination of what looks level.

The port in the foreground of this photo has the teak spacer installed and the port in the distance does not. This is why the spacers are needed on a boat with thin solid glass cabin sides. As they say measure twice, cut once.. These are the NFM teak spacers. Do yourself a favor and do any finish work or varnishing before you install them. This image shows the teak trim ring and the wood blocks I used for clamping and aligning the port.

That rag, in the photo, was white when I began cleaning this port. Just because the ports are brand new does not mean they are clean. I wiped the exterior of the spigot and the hull side of the flange with Acetone and there was plenty of cutting oil and grime to be taken away.

These ports are filthy when they arrive so please do clean them with a non-oily solvent of your choice. One of the main reason Compass Marine 2 Pack Paint For Boats 700 Inc. The NFM butyl tape is a cheap run-of-the mill butyl formulation. If I were doing this job today, it would be done using only Bed-It Tape and no marine sealant. Bed-It Tape can be purchased at the link below. Purchase Bed-It Tape. I found a silicone kitchen tool that worked really well for forcing the butyl into the grove without it sticking to the tape.

Instead, I chose to clamp the port, level it, then install the butyl from the outside. Again, I varied from the NFM instructions on this issue and installed the butyl from the outside, not the inside, but both methods will work. TIP: I applied the butyl from the outside for one major reason. Diversion of water by, internal sealing, creates an almost impossible scenario for tracing external leaks. Even though this boat does not have cored cabin sides, kudos to CS-Yachts for this move, I still chose to only seal from the front of the port to prevent trapping any water in there that could potentially freeze, expand and do damage in the cold Maine winters..

In short, I did not want any sealant between the ports inside flange and the hull only the outside flange, trim ring and the spigot. I was able to get about five pieces of butyl around the spigot drain and two laps of butyl around the rest of the port, but I can assure you, this was NOT easy.

If your previous ports were installed with silicone you should, at a minimum, wet sand until you get NO water beading when you spray the surface with water. There is no chemical that will remove the embedded silicone from the gelcoat other than sanding.

If anyone knows of one please email me! I use a spray bottle filled with water for this test and do it every time I re-bed a fitting. Do not skimp on this detail. In combination with the waxed butyl paper this end worked well. The other end, with the white silicone spatula part removed, worked great for stuffing it in between the hull and port. I applied all the butyl with the clamps in place. When the butyl is finally installed, and packed in place, you can quickly remove the clamps, install the trim ring then re-place the clamps until you get the machine screws in place.

In this photo the second round of butyl is just about ready. You do not want to leave the butyl too thick here or it will squeeze out the outer edges of the trim ring and make a huge mess..

You need enough to make a seal, and to squeeze out between the trim ring and the spigot, but not so much that is squeezes out the outer edge of the trim ring.. TIP: When installing the butyl you need to understand and know this stuff is very sticky. Use the paper that it comes wrapped in to help seat it. Portlights should be fitted to a flat surface with a maximum tolerance of 1 mm. On request the fixed type portlights can be bended.

Gebo portlights are made from anodised aluminium and have a standard smoke grey acrylic sheet of 10mm thickness. All parts are constructed from noncorrosive materials. Download here the brochure. Powder-coating of the frame to any RAL color you specify is also available. As standard the hatch is being manufactured with grey smoke acrylic.

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