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The following can be used as a general guideline for selecting materials. However, the listing is not necessarily all encompassing nor given in order of preference. To figure hull cost, use weight of hull times cost per pound.
For further information on welding, see WeldingTipsandTricks. The number of people with aluminum welding skills and access to fabricating equipment has increased considerably over the years. Yet many are unaware of fundamental considerations confronting the short-handed amateur building a single boat for his own account.
The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting. Thus there may be a tendency to want to apply mass-production techniques to the construction of just a single boat.
But building a single boat yourself is considerably different from one built on a production line, and thus may require certain adjustments and even a revised mind set on the part of the builder.
First, there is no one, superior way to build an aluminum boat. In fact, there can be many suitable approaches and variations. Consider the following. Because production builders are always thinking up ways to cut labor and material costs, and time required to build boats, they evolve specialized methods and materials that help toward these ends even if there is not necessarily any improvement in the boat itself.
For example, they may use special proprietary extrusions to expedite some assembly process such as joining side and bottom plating at the chine see Fig. Alternately, your chines might then be backed with a simple round bar Fig. None of these methods is necessarily superior, but just different due to circumstances. Also, production builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded first.
These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality. Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone. First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat.
Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high. Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i. Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats.
First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service. But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement. The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel. But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines.
This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up. Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e.
Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold.
In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i.
But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar. And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness.
On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation. Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig. An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.
So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc.
In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would Aluminum Boats Bc Canada Youtuber provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; 14 Foot Aluminum Boat With 25 Horse Date for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.
However, in 20 Foot Aluminum Boat Plans Zip the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are 20 Foot Aluminum Boat Plans Green stronger. Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar.
And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want. If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc.
But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. Use our interactive features tool to customize your Silver Streak Boat. See something you like? Want more information on Silver Streak Aluminum Boats? Find a dealer near you for more information. Aluminum boats require a lot less maintenance than fiberglass boats. Aluminum is more durable, longer lasting, and easier to maintain. All our boats are available with a selection of bottom paint options to meet your specific boating needs.
Andy Barry - Owner of Silver Streak Boats has been building a reputation for building the finest aluminum boats on the west coast since Find out for yourself why our aluminum boats are among the most sought after, both new, and used. All Welded Aluminum Boats means there are no rivets or other seals or connections that weaken overtime, create leaks, and will eventually fail.
Welded aluminum boats are among some of the toughest boats out there. Probably why they have become a staple of the west coast. Our aluminum boats require very little ongoing maintenance. No carpets to maintain, no wood to replace and clean. High quality electrical connections mean minimal effort to maintain. Outboard motors mean a simple "end of life" switch, and protect your investment. I would like to thank you for touring us through the boats. I had lots of fun and you helped my family make the decision for that 21 foot special edition phantom to be our future boat.
That is my favorite hat and have already had tons of comments on it. Hope to see you in 5 years or less getting a new boat from your company. Sincerely, Troy. Outboard Dory 18 by Bateau. Phantom 18 by Bateau. Light weight, easy to pole, very shallow draft.
Harbor Master Displacement 19 by Bateau. Redwing 18 by Chesapeake Marine Design Power camp cruiser. Harbor Master 19 by Bateau. Outboard Skiff 19 by Bateau. Classic 19 by Bateau. Classic 19 Express by Bateau.
Pilot 19 by Bateau. Mangusta 20 by Bateau.
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