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Next, connect them 2" x 2"s that run lengthwise beams that are spaced appropriately for the thickness of the plywood. Finally, add vertical supports to help support the load of the deck. The amount of supports you will need is dependent on the thickness of plywood and the size of the deck. Because I wanted two large doors in the middle of the deck so that I could use the area under them as storage for fishing poles, oars, and anything else , my design was a little more complex than the simple design described above.

I designed the doors to be located side by side in the middle of the deck and to measure 58" long and 12" wide. Because of this, I used four 2 x 2 ribs across the width of the boat and three long beams running the length of the boat.

I positioned one beam in the center of the boat and the other two 12" off center. Add vertical supports as you see needed. Also add beams or cross members wherever two pieces of plywood meet up. In my boat this was in the front center and back center of the main deck. I needed to split the plywood to fit it tightly into the boat. I will explain this more in a later step. Measure the width of the boat where the ribs will be located, and cut a 2 x 2 to this dimension.

Then take a piece of cardboard and cut it to the width of the 2 x 2 and about 5 in long. Next cut the cardboard piece so that it matches the contour of the boat where the rib will be located. Lay the cardboard on the 2 x 2 and trace the shape on both ends. Use a jig saw to cut the 2x2 to the shape of the hull. Use a Dremel or sand paper to help finalize the shape. Repeat this procedure for the rest of the ribs that will span the width of the boat.

Cut beams from 2 x 2's to run perpendicular and fill the gap between the ribs that run the width. With 2 x 2's in place, connect them with two screws on each end.

Then cut and shape 2 x 2's to be placed vertically from the bottom of the boat up to the beams for support. Once these supports fit, screw them into place. Add more 2 x 2's if you feel they are needed. For the back support on the rear deck, cut out a piece of plywood that is the width and length of the rear seat.

Cut a 2 x 2 the width of the rear portion of the seat and attach it to the plywood. This will be where the rear storage doors will rest. Cut and attach one 2 x 2 that spans the width of the boat into the transom.

This should be parallel to the 2 x 2 mounted to the plywood. For the front support, cut a 2 x 2 to span the width of the boat and fit right in front of the bow bench.

Later this will be screwed to the aluminum bench. This should fit the shape of the hull. Cut another 2 x 2 that is parallel to the last one but 13'' farther forward. It is very important that this is the same shape as the hull as two screws will be holding it in place that come from the outside of the boat.

Next cut two 2 x 2's that gap the length of the last two you just cut. Screw these 4 pieces together, making sure that all of the tops of these pieces are flat and parallel to the top of the aluminum bench in the bow. Finally, cut a 2 x 2 that extends from the front of the assembly you have just made to the to the bow of the boat. Make sure to shape it to the boat and screw it into the middle of the assembly. This assembly can be seen in the left lower picture above.

Lay a large piece of cardboard down on top of the deck support that you have just finished. Cut the cardboard to the size of boat. Then trace on to the plywood and cut to size with jig saw. Test the fit Aluminum V Bottom Boat Modifications Vol in the boat and adjust if needed. I cut the plywood in half so that it would fit into the V in the side of the hull. This helps support the end of the plywood. If you can not do this, make sure to make modifications to the support you have build in the previous steps to support the plywood properly.

Next, mark the the locations where the doors will be located and cut them out. Cut more off each side so that the door will have room to close when carpet is added. The amount will depend on the thickness of the carpet. Next, cut the front and rear storage areas and decks. Again make sure to leave extra room for the thickness of the carpet.

I chose to have one removable hatch in the front for storage and an area to place your legs. I also made two doors in the back for the more storage an area to cover the gas tank. To cut the front deck, use the same procedure as the main deck by using cardboard as a guide. Add hole to all parts that will have flush pulls, cup holders, and rod holders. Make sure to size them accordingly and leave room for carpeting. Later if you find you have not left enough of a gap for the carpeting you can make modifications.

However, it can be time consuming and somewhat difficult. This step is only needed if you have removed structural components. Use 2 x 8 lumber to connect the side of the hull and the deck to strengthen the side wall. Use the holes from the old rivets that were removed as the locations for the added structure.

Cut 4 triangular shaped pieces to be used as the added support structure. If the side of the hull is not flat, use cardboard as a guide again.

Use a Dremel or sand paper to help shape the lumber to fit the shape of the boat. This step is optional based on whether or not you want to add seats or raise the seats like I did. Luckily the seats I had were the same width as the the lumber I had from the 2 x 8 I used for added support. I used two thickness for each seat. Decide how many thickness you would like to use for each seat, and cut as many as needed to size.

Screw the blocks together if using more than one thickness of lumber. Then cut 2 x 2's to be used to anchor the 2 x 8 blocks just created to the seats. I used 4 for each seat. Seen in the image above, each 2 x 2 fit a gap in the seat base. Screw the 2 x 2's on to the base block. Test fit the seat, and adjust if needed. In the desired area, trace a line around the edge of the minnow bucket that you are going to use. I placed mine within arms reach of the rear seat.

Using a jig saw, cut a hole in the seat just outside the line you traced to leave room for the carpeting. Place the piece of wood in its final location and trace the hole you just cut on to the aluminum seatbelow. Cut along the line you have just traced using a jig saw. Dig out any foam if needed. Test fit the piece of wood and the bucket with the aluminum. Make modifications if needed. I recommend picking up a small aerator. This will keep the minnows alive much longer when they are not getting fresh lake water.

Remove everything from the boat and set aside. Vacuum the entire boat until clean. Wipe down everything again and use vinegar to clean the bare aluminum areas. Once everything is dry. Apply the cold galvanizing compound to all areas that have exposed or bare aluminum. Apply a second coat or multiple coats as recommended by the paint specifications. After this primer has dried, tape off all areas that will not be painted.

I wanted a patriotic boat, so I painted stripes down the side walls and stars on theseats. First, tape the top edge and all other areas that will not be painted. Then, using spray paint, cover everything on the side walls of the hull and the vertical portions of the aluminum seats white for a base coat.

Apply coats as recommended by the spray paint manufacture. Make sure to apply even light coats to avoid streaks and runs. After allowing the paint to thoroughly dry, apply tape over the areas that will be left white. Apply another coat of white paint over the tape to help create strong tape lines.

Once everything is dry, apply the next color of paint. Next, spray the red paint over the white areas that are not taped to create the red stripes. When dry, tape off the areas that have been painted with the stripes. Next, cut full adhesive sticky notes to the shape of the US flag's stars. Apply them to the vertical portion of the seats with even spacing. This should be white from earlier. Spray a couple of paint coats over the sticky notes and make sure they are firmly pressed on. When the paint is dry, spray blue paint over the stars on the seats.

This will create a blue background with white stars. Once all painting has been done, remove all tape. Touch up any areas needed. Once every piece of lumber has been cut, you are ready to carpet them all. First, label the bottom sides of all the pieces. Also draw arrows pointing toward the bow of the boat. This will help you place all of the pieces on the carpet so that the pile goes in the same direction. Cut the carpet to size, plus an extra allowance of approximately 2.

Lay the carpet on top of the wood in the correct direction and lay a weight in the middle of the bigger pieces. Pull back one half of the carpet being careful not to shift it. Apply outdoor carpet adhesive with a trowel to one half of the top side of the wood.

Then slowly lay down the carpet, without shifting it, starting in the middle and moving toward the end.

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