Use this gallery as a blueprint to make upgrades to your rig. Photo: Thomas Allen. I prefer to run the lines straight to the cranking batter. Again, this is my method of connection, and I did place an inline fuse on each line as an added precaution, but neglected to take a photo.
See the blue and yellow electrical tape? More on that to come. I tape both ends of every cable to relate to which unit it will be connected to. At the bow, I needed a Dek-It bridge-style mount that would sit forward of and above the trolling motor pedal. I decided to go with the Dek-It The mount is angled backwards to provide a user-friendly angle.
On the front side of the mount you can also mount a GPS puck. The Helix units have the GPS transponder installed internally. Skip to main content. Boat Makeover: Step-by-step electronics install. As a dedicated bass-fishing fanatic and a boat owner, I understand that upgrades have to occasionally be made to keep up to date with the rapidly advancing technology.
This total-boat control system is groundbreaking and is a technology that the bass-fishing world has hardly tapped into. Trust me, this complete system will change your life. Both of which worked perfectly and contributed to many limits of bass. I had to get creative with a sawzall and most of my woodworking tools to get it accomplished. The following images show step-by-step what I had to do to re-rig my boat with new electronics.
I decided to use the same position that the was in for the new Helix Make sure you export your waypoints from your old unit before taking it off. Disconnecting everything made extracting those waypoints more difficult for me. Learn from my mistakes! This smaller Lowrance Bass Boat Center Console Storage Box Driver unit was fully operational and very useful, except the location made it difficult to utilize when running the boat on pad.
This boat came with a volt trolling motor battery system, and a couple of years ago I upgraded to a volt Minn Kota Fortrex, which required an additional battery in the rear of the boat. That in turn required an upgrade to the on-board charger. I went with a 4-bank MK Precision Charger. Space in the power plant of the boat was very limited, and I decided to employ a trick I learned from Bassmaster Elite Series angler Gerald Swindle.
I attached it to the underside of the rear hatch, and that opened up a ton of room beneath. Now I can easily access the livewell infrastructure without having to unscrew and remove the charger. This was a good move, and the first change I felt the boat electronics remodel required. Thanks G! Next step was removing the Lowrance. This cavity was to become a mounting base for a large Ram Mount to hold a second Helix I noticed immediately that it would require some creativity, and elbow grease.
It actually provided a template for the new base. The tabbed cavity was going to require a sawzall to remove the perpendicular piece that provided internal support for the flush-mounted Lowrance. To build my base, I had to cut that out.
Make sure you have the right blade type, blade length and you know exactly where and what you are cutting. Make sure there are no wires. AND, make sure power is completely cut off before you start any of this.
That inner cavity is where the internal pieces of the base plate would fit. As you can see, it took a little jury-rigging. I could have used marine-grade treated plywood, and that would have worked just as well I think. Here you can see I had to use two pieces of the PVC board to match the height of the face cover. Eventually, this is how it will function. But I felt like it was essential to put two pieces behind the dash to sturdy it up �.
It was proving difficult to fasten to the inside of the outer dash layer, so I chose to use J-B Weld to hold it into position until I was able to fasten the front face plate with carriage bolts.
This image shows how I clamped it into position allowing the glue to set. Not super pretty, but this area would not ever be seen, and it is fully functional. I painted up the front pieces. I decided that I wanted to use carriage bolts because of the smooth, rounded head of the bolt would prove more cosmetically pleasing than a hex head.
So, I used vise-grips to hold the bolt in place while I tightened the nuts. I measured incorrectly and drilled unnecessary holes. Way to go, Thomas � But, the silver lining is the faceplate would cover it and no one would ever know. Measure twice, says I. I had to take the steering wheel off to get the bolts put all the way in, as well. Lesson after lesson. Finished and ready for the Ram Mount. The larger ball bases can take more torque when tightening, and therefore will not move as much when running in rough water.
And here you can see the positioning I was hoping for. But, the cool thing about the left-hand Ram Mount is I can reposition it if I need to during long runs. Or even take it off completely.
Before I go on, keep in mind that I have quite a bit of electrical experience from my days working in the construction world. If you are at all uncomfortable with running wires, ask for help! Or, perhaps take your boat in to have it done professionally. However, my goal in the following images is to mildly show you how I did it. Some specific tools and materials are required. In this image, I put both power sources to both units into one line on the battery.
I decided to color coordinate each unit so I know exactly which line goes to which unit. The wires will be eventually run inside the boat gunnel, and knowing which line runs to which unit will be of tremendous help if I ever have to trouble shoot a potential problem. The next task was installing the in-hull transducer. This seemed like a difficult task, but it only took a few minutes and it works perfectly.
That round gooey hole is where the previous transducer was, and as you can tell I had a bit of cleaning to do. You need the areas to be clean and dry before applying the adhesive, which comes with the transducer kit. Once I had the area cleaned and dried, I used a hand grinder to remove the old adhesive, which came right off. I also lightly cleaned the area where the new transducer was to go.
The pink area is the raw fiberglass. I used a fine-grit sandpaper to smooth it out as much as I could. Here you can see the position objective. Put it in a blob like this. Just like this. Make sure there are NO bubbles. At this point, I let it sit for 24 hours to make sure the adhesive fully set up. Once you have it positioned correctly, tighten the bolts. Notice the yellow tape? Blue tape indicates the in-hull transducer, yellow is Side and Down Imaging. The plug on the left is for the SI and DI, on the right is standard sonar.
Make time for refreshment. Basically, I tape the cable-end running the opposite direction of the cable snake, and I tape it up good. Eliminating all hard edges with electrical tape will reduce the changes of it getting hung up inside the gunnels. After running the blue power and transducer cables they can be easily managed at the unit head. Same with the yellow cables and unit. More on the Ethernet hub later.
I was surprised at this, too. The first attempt to connect and power up the two Helix 10s was successful. One of the best attributes to these units is they are very easy to set up and turn on. Right out of the box they work.
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