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The external lead-ballast keel is bolted through the keel sump in the hull. Its run is flat, and the boat can sit on its keel, allowing it be careened against a seawall for bottom painting, prop repairs, or other work in locales where boatyards are rare.

In our earlier review, we noted that the engine compartment has no sound insulation, despite its proximity to the owners berth, but gluing in some lead-lined foam is within the capability of most owners. A percent genoa measures square feet, which is a handful for older crew. Roller furling with maybe a percent genoa would be a logical way to minimize the effort required to tack this boat. Strangely, the Landfall 38 did not come standard with self-tailing winches; a highly recommended upgrade.

The main halyard, Cunningham, and reefing lines are led aft to the cockpit, while the headsail halyards run to winches on deck near the mast. The boat is stiff and well balanced. Owners like the way it handles and appreciate its speed. The standard engine was a hp Yanmar diesel. The early Yanmar Q series had a reputation for being noisy and vibrating a lot.

Power is adequate. The standard prop was a solid two-blade. Engine access leaves a lot to be desired. The interior is pushed well into the ends of the boat to achieve a legitimate three-cabin accommodation plan. The standard layout was a V-berth forward with cedar-lined hanging locker. The berth narrows quickly forward so that tall people might not find enough foot room. Moving aft, there is a dinette and settees in the saloon, U-shaped galley and large head with shower amidships, and a double berth in the port quarter, opposite a navigation station.

Installing Plexiglas screens on either side of the ladder will help. Oddly, there is no place to install fixed-mount instruments outboard of the nav table; that space is given to a hanging locker, but could be modified.

Other than this, about the only other shortcoming is that the toilet is positioned so far under the side deck that persons of average size cannot sit upright. And, the head door is louvered, which compromises privacy. There is not a lot to complain about with the Landfall 38 that we haven't already said: the V-berth forward is tight, theres no sitting upright on the toilet, theres no place to install electronics at the nav station, and the nav station and aft berth invite a good soaking through the companionway.

Construction is above average, but have a surveyor sound the hull and decks for signs that the fiberglass skins have delaminated from the balsa core. Small areas can be repaired, but our advice is not to buy a boat with widespread delamination. The Landfall 38 is an excellent family boat and coastal cruiser. Its popularity in the Great Lakes region is not surprising. Island hopping to the Caribbean is also within reach, but any longer cruises will likely require more tank capacity and stowage.

Standard tankage is gallons water and 32 gallons of fuel. In the early years of fiberglass boat construction, the major builders-Columbia, Cal, Morgan, Tartan, and others-commissioned well-known naval architects to design their models.

Today, this work is more often done by a no-name in-house team over which the company has more control. The bow is raked, and the angle of the reverse transom is in line with the backstay-an easily missed detail that nevertheless affects the viewers impression of the boat.

Freeboard is moderate and the sheer is gentle. A distinctive feature is how the cockpit coamings fair into the cabin trunk. From its beginning, Tartan Yachts set out to build boats of above average quality, and this can be seen in both the finish and fiberglass work.

Some unidirectional rovings were incorporated in the hull laminate to better carry loads; like the vast majority of boats of this era, the resin was polyester. Vinylester skin coats, which better prevent osmotic blistering, had yet to appear. Some printthrough is noticeable, more on dark-color hulls. The hull and deck are cored with end-grain balsa, which brings with it our usual warnings about possible delamination. The hull-deck joint is bolted through the toerail and bedded in butyl and polysulfide.

Taping of bulkheads to the hull is neatly executed with no raw fiberglass edges visible anywhere in the interior. Seacocks have proper bronze ball valves. Shortcomings: Pulpit fasteners lack backing plates. Scuppers and bilge pump outlets have no shutoffs.

Under sail, the Tartan 37 balances and tracks well. As noted earlier, its not a fireburner, but not a slug either. Its no longer widely raced, but the few participating in PHRF races around the country have handicaps ranging from seconds per mile. Because of the large foretriangle and relatively small mainsail, tacking a genoa requires larger winches and more muscle than if the relative areas of the two were Best Sailing Yacht Builders Online reversed.

For relaxed sailing, jiffy reefing of the main and a roller-furling headsail take the pain out of sail handling. The horsepower Westerbeke 50 diesel provides ample power. Standard prop was a inch two blade. A folding or feathering propeller reduces drag, thereby improving speed. Access to the front of the engine, behind the companionway ladder, is good.

The layout below is straightforward with few innovations: large V-berth forward with hanging locker and drawers; head with sink and shower; saloon with drop-down table, settee, and pilot berth; U-shaped galley to starboard; and to port, a quarterberth that can be set up as a double. To work at the navigation station one sits on the end of the quarterberth. This plan will sleep more crew than most owners will want on board, but its nice to have the option.

The fold-down table, like most of its ilk, is flimsy. Underway, tables should be strong enough to grab and hold on to without fear of damaging it or falling-thats not the case here. And the cabin sole is easily marred trying to get the pins in the legs to fit into holes in the sole.

Finish work in teak is excellent, though this traditional choice of wood makes for a somewhat dark interior. Today, builders have worked up the nerve to select lighter species such as ash and maple. Eight opening portlights, four ventilators, and three hatches provide very good ventilation. The standard stove was alcohol, which few people want anymore, owing to low BTU content which means it takes longer to boil water , the difficulty in lighting, and almost invisible flame.

Propane is a better choice, but there is no built-in stowage on deck for the tank, which must be in a locker sealed off from the interior and vented overboard. You could mount the tank exposed on deck, but that would not complement the boats handsome lines. Centerboards come with their own peculiar set of problems: slapping in the trunk while at anchor, broken pendants and pivot pins, and fouling in the trunk that inhibits operation.

Often what sets apart higher-quality boats from the rest of the fleet is the cost of materials and labor in making up the wood interior. They look better than bare fiberglass, work better because they have more drawers and stowage options, and are warmer and quieter.

The unnoticed flip side is that the joinerwork tends to hide problems, like the source of a leak. When all the fasteners are neatly bunged and varnished, it takes courage to start pulling apart the interior! Checking engine oil is unnecessarily difficult, and to operate emergency steering gear a tiller the lazarette hatch must be held open, which could be dangerous.

Lastly, the companionway sill is low for offshore sailing; stronger drop boards would help compensate. The enthusiasm for this boat is strong. In fact, theres a whole book written about it, put together with the help of the Tartan 37 Sailing Association link below.

We view it rather as a smart coastal cruiser and club racer. Good design and above-average construction give it extra long life on the used-boat market. Great article, but why did you leave out your namesake build � Camper Nicholsons Nicholson Cocktails for 6, dinner for 4, sleeps 2 is our mantra.

This is great information and a good guideline to go by. Thanks for the heads up on theses vessels. Every time Practical Sailor does a review of boats in the to footers built between and , they always leave out the Perry designed Islander Freeport 36 and Many people are still cruising in these great boats, and among Islander Yachts designs this one is a wonderful cruiser.

I was also sad to see that. They are lovely sailors. These are all nice boats. If you aren't yet an accomplished sailor, consider a live-aboard cruising instruction course such as Offshore Sailing School' s Fast Track to Cruising. As many coastal sailors do not enjoy oceans passages complete an offshore passage to ensure you do. Time spent offshore will quickly clarify your priorities for boat selection and equipment plus generally satisfies the prerequisite for obtaining offshore insurance for your future boat.

Selecting a cruising boat is the most important decision in preparing for an offshore voyage and often is a pivotal point in the changing of dreams from "Let's take off and go cruising some time", into the reality of "Let's get outfitted and go".

Obviously there isn't any one perfect boat for everyone. The boat you choose should be safe, comfortable, well built, and ideally capable of fast passages while proving to be a good investment If your plans are only for coastal cruising you can consider a winder range of suitable boats than those who are headed offshore and require a sturdier vessel.

The process of selecting and purchasing a boat for extended cruising usually takes a minimum of six to 12 months. Research boat types that suit your budget and cruising plans. Be patient, ask questions and learn everything you can while keeping an open mind. You'll need to locate, examine, survey, test sail, complete the purchase transaction and possibly ship or deliver your new boat to a place convenient for outfitting.

If you make a poor choice you may be plagued with structural problems, leaks, slow uncomfortable passages, endless repairs and a low resale price. I mention resale price now, because the money used for purchasing a cruising boat often represents a substantial part of people's life savings. Although sailboats are rarely a "good" investment in monetary terms, you'll want to recoup as much of your original purchase price as possible when it comes time to sell.

Two of the most important points to remember when selecting a boat are size and cost. The size of boat you select directly affects your cruising costs, not only in initial purchase and outfitting, but also in cruising expenses once you're under way. This amount excludes optional equipment such as refrigeration, electronics, outboard motors, scuba gear and autopilots.

It's easy and normal to overspend on the initial purchase of the boat, spend more money on equipment that isn't essential and then run short of funds once you've completed your initial provisioning and have actually started cruising. The majority of boats cruising for a year or longer are sailed by couples, and a boat in the 35' to 45' size range generally works out best, particularly if the owners are new to sailing.

The cost, time and energy required to maintain a 50' to 60' boat versus a 40' boat once you're "out there"cruising is significantly higher. When I started cruising the South Pacific in on a Vega 27, there were many cruisers on shoestring budgets, multi-year open-ended cruises on boats under 35'. Today we see people cruising faster on larger boats, visiting many countries in a shorter time.

Offshore cruising is now rarely an open-ended lifestyle choice, but one that most people experience for one to two years before moving on to the next phase of their life. In general, the median length of cruising boats has been increasing steadily.

Crew difficulties are one of the most persistent and common problems on cruising boats. It's easy to find friends and family members excited about sailing with you when you first leave your homeport. As you get further away airfares become more expensive, it becomes expensive and time consuming coordinating the logistics of crew arrival and departure.

You might also find that you may not be comfortable trusting your boat and life to people whom you don't know well. You must be prepared to singlehand your boat. Seasickness or illness may incapacitate you or your partner, leaving one person to handle everything. If you are considering a boat over 42' and aren't as strong as you used to be, consider adding electric winches, a bowthruster and possibly a furling mainsail.

These add cost and complexity, but being able to easily handle your boat is important. You will be out cruising years earlier with fewer mechanical breakdowns. Some people use the justification that since they have rebuilt every system on their boat, they now can fix them in some distant port.

I personally would rather spend that time cruising than with my head down in the bilge fixing something that I overhauled a year earlier! If you buy the right boat, keep it in top condition while you're cruising, you'll find a line-up of folks wanting to purchase it when you've completed your cruise and you should recoup most or all of your initial investment.

Custom boats just don't make sense! Used Boat : Compromise is important in selecting the right used boat. Chances are you may not find any boat in your price range that exactly meets all of your criteria so be prepared to be flexible and keep an open mind as you learn more about what makes a safe and comfortable offshore boat.

You may go into your boat search thinking that you absolutely must have a heavy displacement double-ender with a long bowsprit and a centerline queen berth, for example. After educating yourself, you may decide that these are not necessarily criteria that add to comfort or safety at sea. Cruising equipment adds very little to the selling price of used boats, you may find a boat that has already been outfitted and cruised, saving you tens of thousands of dollars.

The easiest way to find a quality used boat is to locate a professional and knowledgeable broker who has offshore sailing experience and who will work with you to find a suitable boat. Some less knowledgeable or scrupulous brokers will try and sell you whatever boat is easiest. Use Yachtworld. Spend time clearly communicating your purchase time frame, budget, and personal priorities with the broker.

Be honest and don't waste their time. If you need to first sell your house or won't be able to make a purchase for some time, let them know that in your initial discussion and don't expect their full attention until you are really ready to purchase.

Home Built : Home building makes the least sense unless you are an experienced boat builder and are not concerned about time and expenses. They frequently have a lower resale value than a comparable production boat. It is best if you research and choose the surveyor, rather than hiring a surveyor recommended by the seller or yacht broker.

Ask to see examples of previous surveys. You want to hire a surveyor who has no vested interest in the transaction, other than making sure that the boat you're considering is safe and a good investment for you. Marine insurance companies and banks can recommend surveyors whose opinions they trust. Most marine surveyors do not thoroughly cover these Best Sailboat Builders 4k items in a typical survey.

Used boat prices vary geographically and may be lowest in areas of the country experiencing economic downturn and weak real estate markets. If people can't sell their property, they are less likely to be able to afford to purchase and outfit a boat for extended cruising.

This shortage will become more acute. When boat shopping in Florida , you'll find that many of the boats have been unattended and not maintained for some time.

Frequently the owners have run out of time, money or interest and have parked the boat with a broker, returning home elsewhere. The salt, humidity and UV really takes it's toll on boats unattended in the tropics. A ten-year-old boat that has been dry stored in a low humidity, low salt environment for six months each year will often be in much better condition than a five-year-old Florida boat.

The light air and generally moderate sea conditions and temperature mean that less-expensive and more lightly constructed coastal cruisers dominate the market. The present currency exchange rates have made purchasing a boat overseas less attractive. Prices of identical cruising boats are enough higher in Europe that many Europeans are purchasing boat on the US East Coast. New Zealand and Australia have some quality cruising boats for sale, but as these are small run production boats, few people in North America are familiar with these boats and they may be difficult to resell.

However, there are always a considerable number of boats that have cruised there from Europe or NA that are now for sale as owners are ready to return home. If you're interested in cruising specific areas such as Scandinavia , the Med, French canals or New Zealand and aren't interested in the long passages, purchasing a boat on location may be a good choice.

If you're considering purchasing a boat overseas and plan to sail it back to the U. Any U. Embassy will be able to provide you with temporary documentation papers if you're purchasing and cruising a boat in another country.

When trying to decide whether or not it is logical to purchase a boat out of your area, make sure to factor in all shipping and commissioning costs. The approximate costs for shipping a 35' and 42', sailboat with a beam of no more than 12' and a trailer height of under 14'. The cost of deck shipping a 35' boat from Europe or New Zealand to the U. Dockwise Yacht Transport, www. If at all possible, contact the designer before purchasing. Relatively few boats were actually designed for ocean passage making.

You will need to learn if the boat builder followed the designer's construction criteria. Some Taiwanese-built yachts advertised as being designed by Robert Perry or Doug Peterson may actually be pirated designs where the designer has not been paid a royalty and the builder may have tried to save money by reducing structural integrity.

None of the Taiwan yards employing this practice were in business very long. If the yard is still in business it can be quite helpful for purchasing some parts and assemblies, but is by no means essential.

If they are still in business, call and ask them about the boat you're considering. Have the hull number and date of manufacture ready. You may find that boats built by a yard that is still in business retain higher value than boats where the builder has gone out of business.

As an example, friends of mine had a Southern Cross 35 built for them by Ryder Yachts in After a successful Pacific circumnavigation and the arrival of two lovely daughters, they decided to move up to a Morris Morris is still in business building excellent boats; Southern Cross went under not long after my friend's boat was completed. If you're considering purchasing a new boat, check the financial condition of the company.

Some builders are just barely staying in business and may use your deposit money to complete another person's boat. This only works as long as the deposits are coming in! You'll sure appreciate a design that offers good sailing performance and ease of handling the more miles you sail.

Few potential cruisers think of passage-making speed as important criteria in choosing an ocean cruising boat. After considerable years and miles of ocean cruising, it is now high on my personal list of priorities. The shorter the passages, the less exposure you have to heavy weather conditions. A boat with good sailing performance requires less motoring and fuel, is faster, more responsive and fun to sail in the light to moderate wind conditions so common worldwide.

Windward sailing performance is nearly as important as passage-making speed. On the other extreme, a very modern, light displacement boat with a flat entry may tend to pound when sailing to windward and may lack directional stability when sailing downwind with large following seas. The ability to sail off a lee shore in an emergency is dependent on windward performance. Bowsprits longer than 24' often prove to be a liability when anchoring, changing headsails or maneuvering in close quarters.

Low freeboard may indicate a design that will ship a lot of spray and water on ocean passages. Excessive freeboard may cause poor windward performance and a tendency to "sail" back and forth at anchor. A small amount of weather helm as the wind increases is desirable, but an excessive amount that cannot be decreased by sail trim or rig tuning may mean that a boat will be difficult to steer by hand, windvane or autopilot.

If the design is excessively tender , you'll have to get used to living, cooking, navigating and sleeping at 25 to 30 degrees angle of heel every time you are sailing to windward, something you may find fatiguing. A vessel with a short waterline and long, graceful overhangs often tends to hobbyhorse or pitch when to sailing to windward making upwind passages uncomfortable and difficult to impossible. Another drawback is frequently a lack directional stability when sailing downwind in a large following sea.

This is just as important as each of the above points, because a boat may have the best sailing characteristics in the world, but if your partner views it as a deep, dark, damp, unattractive place to live, you'll either be singlehanding or giving up your cruising dreams. Remember most cruisers are at sea less than a quarter of the time, so comfort at anchor is also very important.

Space for the additional sails, tankage, food, lines, spare parts, medical and safety supplies required for extensive cruising is important. On some boats valuable storage space under the settees and berths is filled with tankage that could have been designed under the cabin sole.

A purpose-designed cruising boat will be able to carry the additional weight of three anchors, a windlass and several hundred pounds of chain, as well as additional water 8 lbs. You'll be adding several thousand pounds of equipment, so if the boat you're considering is already on her waterline before you start loading cruising gear you may end up several inches below the designed waterline. On some designs this may be a dangerous problem. Boats that handle the weight the best are not real narrow at the waterline beam and have transom sterns without excessive overhangs.

Multihulls advantages include very little heeling or rolling and tremendous interior volume and deck space, making them very attractive for sailing, living aboard and chartering in tropical climes.

Another distinct advantage is that multihulls don't sink if holed, unlike ballasted monohulls. Their disadvantages for offshore cruising are that they are more weight-sensitive to overloading; they may be uncomfortable going upwind into a head sea and under extremely rare instances they can capsize.

As few marinas worldwide were designed for the width of multis, moorage in some places may be difficult to find. Having said this, multi-hulls are ever increasing in popularity and make the most sense for warm-water cruising areas. In the past, cruisers assumed a full-keel design with attached rudder was optimum for ocean voyaging. I have cruised on four different modern full-keel boats, plus on a boat with a longish keel and separate full-skeg and rudder.




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