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If you love canoeing but you want to step up your hobby from using plastic rentals to a beautifully crafted wooden canoe, you should consider learning how to build a canoe yourself. Croix Canoes give you a brief overview of the things you might need to know when planning to craft your own cedar-stripped canoe from scratch, like where to get the woodworking materials and how to make the form.
Router bit collets do wear out, but it can be difficult to tell when. When working on your woodworking project, have you ever wondered why most dovetail jigs are a two-bit operation? Woodworking expert George Vondriska explains how through-pins and tails are cut on a jig, and when to use each of the two cutters required for the process.
Master woodworker George Vondriska demonstrates the best way to safely cut perfectly straight plastic laminate with your table saw. Bending wood is one of those techniques that can have a dramatic effect on a woodworking project, but many woodworkers shy away from it because it seems intimidating. Watch this demonstration by our expert woodworker George Vondriska to learn a simple, worry-free approach to bending wood quickly using a heated iron pipe.
Remember me. Lost your password? Privacy Policy. This goes a lot faster if you use staples, but as an experienced woodworker used to making very nice pieces, I just can't bring myself to put staples into a visible face; that's just not right!
The stapleless method is painfully slow, but using a combination of latex hose and band clamps I was able to glue about four strips at a time without any staples. The band clamps keep the strips tight to the curvature of the forms, and the latex bands provide the edge pressure between the strips; the substantial inconvenience of this method is it requires additional space in front of the canoe to thread strips in under the band clamps.
The latex hoses are tied to one jaw of a spring clamp; the clamp can be attached anywhere along the bottom edge of the forms, allowing for easy adjustment of pressure amplitude and direction.
Thread four strips into place. Squeeze glue into the meeting lines. Pull the remaining bands over and tighten all bands. Wear eye protection when working with these; more than one slipped while tightening and nailed me in the face.
I didn't think of using the band clamps until about half way into stripping; the result is that my initial strips didn't follow the curvature of the forms as closely as I'd have liked. Groups tended to cup slightly.
Once the glue sets, release the latex bands and glue up the next set. I didn't mind being generous sloppy with the glue, because wood glue is cheap and I have decent tools for knocking it off later; actually a putty knife or hand plane each work great and the latter is a necessity for rapid fairing of the outside hull.
Common scrapers used for hardwood work are not useful here, because the soft cedar just tears out. I did put tacks in the sheerline strips, since those would be covered by rails, anyway. Gluing the strips went rapidly until I reached the bilge area, where there is a significant twist in the boards.
You can see in the first image, below, that the latest strip starts out almost vertical at the stem, twists to almost horizontal in the middle, and then back to vertical at the other end. The latex hose is not strong enough to support that kind of twisting; it became difficult to do more than one or two strips at a time until I rounded the bend.
Set it, glue it, clamp it into place, wait for the glue to set up enough to hold the twist, etc. Once you make it "around the bend," filling in one side of the bottom went quickly. Glue the boards in to overlap the center line marked on the forms at the beginning.
Once one side is complete, cut them back flush with the center line. Then begin installing the boards on the other side. This is much more tedious since each piece must be hand-fit, one at a time, to the boards already installed.
This obviously isn't the only way to fill in the floor. I've seen some real creative approaches but wanted to keep Wooden Canoe Building Plans Young it simple for my first go. Strip installation becomes increasingly-frustrating and profanity-laden as you approach the final few strips. The last two or three boards were quite difficult to put in; I had to dig pretty deep into my bag of tricks to make it work out nicely.
In this case, using a razor knife, I cut half of the concave groove from the last installed strip, pressed the final strips into place, tapped it a few times with a soft-face mallet, then glued the removed edge back in. Now, with the fiberglass and epoxy over it, you can't tell how it was done.
No doubt the pro-builders have better approaches. Cedar dust was generously mixed in this first coat so as to fill any minor cracks between the strips. You and any helpers should be wearing a full face respirator any time you are sanding cedar or epoxy and should keep it on for a considerable time afterward, at least until the air in the room has completely changed several times over!
For this and other reasons it is often easiest to do all major sanding outside. Fiberglassing: It is very important that the fiberglass sheet be taut, smooth, and in good contact with the surface of the boat. My primary mistake has been not having the sheet pulled taut; this is most difficult when doing the inside due to the concave shape. That pushes excess fabric out and away from the middle. Otherwise, you'll end up with wrinkles and ripples. Unevenness in the fabric tension creates areas where the epoxy can collect and lift the fabric slightly relative to the surrounding plane.
This isn't immediately evident while squeegeeing out, and happens slowly over the following hours. Also, don't use any more epoxy than is absolutely necessary; any excess is just going to cause problems and make more sanding for the final finish. I used System Three silvertip laminating epoxy with slow hardener for most applications. You can also use the fast hardener if you don't wait too long more than a few hours between applications.
With the slow hardener I was able to wait up to days between applications if necessary without requiring any sanding. Pour it on and spread it generously. Then squeegee it out once it begins to gel. Either hardener gave me about 30 minutes of working time before beginning to stiffen that was at about 70 degrees. A clean squeegee is best for the initial application; later applications go faster with a roller the roller will stick to, pick up and carry the cloth if used on the first coat.
Some have suggested using a thinner epoxy like System Three ClearCoat for the first application. Also, when using a roller, make sure it is a lintless foam roller. I made the mistake on my first fill-coat attempt of using a common paint roller, which left lint fuzzies all through the epoxy coating. Also, you often have to follow the roller with a bristle or foam brush to release bubbles created by the roller.
I had weird results applying epoxy to trim one cold, late evening. It was a follow-up coat and the underlying coat was still tacky. The next day it didn't have the usual glossy clear appearance, but a matte, crackly look. A friend told me that he thought it got down to freezing later that night. Just to be safe I sanded it down and applied another coat. Some resources -- System Three in particular -- suggest not doing the initial epoxy-on-fiberglass coat while the temperature is increasing, as this may cause air expansion in the wood and subsequent bubbles the exception being if you've already thoroughly sealed the wood.
Others purposefully increase the temperature in the room after application to try to accelerate curing while others reduce to the temperature to avoid bubbles. Some suggest avoiding applying any epoxy if you anticipate heavy, condensing humidity before the epoxy will substantially cure. Silvertip epoxy will blush turn whitish if exposed to moisture before it has set firm.
Some others need a substantial amount of time -- days or weeks -- before exposure. I ran into problems when the wind kicked up while applying a final epoxy coat outdoors, which blew dust and chips onto the surface of the boat it wasn't a big deal, as I still had some sanding to do. In any event, keep an eye on it for at least an hour after the first epoxy coat on the fiberglass or you may be sorry. My first attempt at fiberglassing went really well We were happy with how it looked, and so went to lunch.
When I returned, bubbles had appeared all over the place, and the fiberglass had ripples all through it. It looked horrible, and the epoxy was too-far cured to do anything about it. If there were just a handful of bubbles, some recommend slitting them with a razor or injecting epoxy directly into them with a needle. Because there were so many, I sanded it all down, applied another sheet which went much better , and then a few filler coats. The result was a glossy egg-shell-texture feel.
It will be sanded again later to get a smooth surface. That first epoxy-on-fiberglass application took a lot of epoxy; about 10 cups of resin and 5 of hardener if I recall two batches of half that size.
This was all spread on, and about half of that actually ended up in the trash because it came back off during the squeegee process. At times I attempted to reuse the epoxy instead of making more. That was a mistake. Once applied, it picks up a lot of microscopic airbubbles from the fiberglass "entrained" air. If you look really closely -- and you probably wouldn't notice it unless it was pointed out -- you can see areas on my finish that look a little lighter, less clear, than nearby ones.
That is a result of this reused epoxy. This isn't a problem on the filler coats, which take much less epoxy than the first coat. Perhaps a third as much. But that first epoxy-on-fiberglass coating is a critical, don't skimp and don't mess around, step. It was painful to see that much epoxy get squeegeed off and dumped out, but I don't see a better solution unless you have a vacuum bell, very slow setting epoxy, and don't mind debubbling it.
Also, squeegees and mixing bowls are really cheap -- tens of cents -- compared to the time it takes to clean them. I found it easier and better for my mental health to just go purchase a dozen squeegees and mixing bowls at 40 cents each after wasting time trying to clean used ones a couple times. Once the outer hull is complete, the forms were knocked out and the canoe was turned over.
I made simple slings from 2x4s and carpet scraps to support the canoe on top of the strongback. Scraped and sanded the inside.
Smoothing the inside was much more difficult due to its concave shape. A portable grinder held at various angles really accelerated this step; use abrasive disks commonly used to remove rust or paint. As with a belt sander, never let the tool stop moving side to side while spinning and in contact with the wood. Without the interior fiberglass and supporting rails and thwarts, the canoe sags somewhat now that it is off of the forms.
You need to watch this while doing the interior fiberglass and rails, adjusting the support slings and adding spanning clamps to correct the shape. Otherise, you'll epoxy the deformation into your finished boat. This filler step not only fills any remaining cracks, but also reveals problems that would be disasters if they weren't caught before the fiberglass went on. For example, I tried a new sandpaper on the inner hull surface, and there was an odd grit or something that scratched up the interior surface.
I couldn't see it on the dry wood, but when the filler epoxy went on, it showed up immediately and loudly , and required additional sanding to fix. If I had proceeded immediately to fiberglassing, I'd have lost my sheet of fiberglass if I wanted to do anything about the marks. Then apply the fiberglass sheet as with the outside. I found it best to pre-cut the sheet to fit, held in place by a few spring clamps, which were removed as the epoxy was applied.
A few bubbles and ripples appeared, but not as bad as the first sheet on the outside. The bubbles formed primarily along the seams between the strips. I assume this was from not having a completely-cured or thick sealer coat, and so gas was being pushed through from inside the wood and seams by the hydraulic pressure of the epoxy penetrating elsewhere.
It worked fine to just go back over them with a squeegee and sometimes a little more epoxy. Did a light filler coat, leaving a little fabric texture visible for traction. Moved the whole project to my back yard because the McMinnville Planning Department was having a major hissie fit about there being a tent in my driveway. I didn't violate any ordinance, but Doug Montgomery and Ron Pomeroy said they would cite me anyway, even though they knew I wasn't actually violating any ordinance.
They said that this was just how they had always done things. Anyway, I didn't want to have to pay for an attorney to defend myself from frivolous prosecution regarding a tent I had always planned to move anyway, so after two months of harassment and threats from them I gave into their extortion. But that is another story for another time. Creating the rails required epoxying three eight-foot lengths together for each rail using a 6-to-1 scarf joint some recommend 8-to-1 or greater, but the 6-to-1 ratio worked fine for me.
Then cut them down to length, test fit, and sanded the surfaces where they would attach to the canoe. The gluing points need to be roughed up in advance because the epoxy does not adhere well to glossy, hard surfaces like already-cured epoxy.
Did some prep-work to try to keep the surface clean blue tape , and then epoxied them into place. Sand the surface to which the rail will attach It will save a bit of work if you peel off the blue tape while the epoxy is still wet. Then go through and apply clamps every inches.
My purpose in using so many clamps isn't to apply a huge amount of pressure to the joint -- you'll notice I have no C-clamps on the rails that might starve an epoxy joint -- but to just keep the rail and hull uniformly against each other. Ended up doing one outer rail at a time because it took pretty much every clamp I own. It is good to have an extra set of hands around for items like this, but an individual can do the rails if you dry clamp them in place first with a tight clamp every couple feet.
Then remove the clamps from the middle to one end and apply your epoxy. Clamp that half firmly in place and remove the clamps on the other end; wash, rinse, repeat The interior rail was dry-set into place first, then marked off for thwarts, seats, etc.
At first I thought I'd use mortise and tenon joints for the thwarts, and threaded rod hangers for the seats. Anyone who has seen my other projects knows that my tendency is to overdesign and overbuild things. Also, wood does not resist outward pressure very well over the long-term; it tends to split and fail. Consequently, I plan to add full ribs at the seat points and will hang the seats from ribs.
Like the thwarts, this will also prevent the seat from puncturing the hull under compression. They are also the natural result on a canoe that is made with ribs. However, on small, ribless boats with open hulls, whether their utility matches the effort needed to make them is debatable. They do make easy tie-down points for small lines, and water drainage when rinsing out the boat on land.
Other than that, they are just a lot of work to make and maintain, so I put solid rails on this one. One of the inner rails snapped at a subtle knot during installation -- another quarter for the swearbox.
It was really my own fault for allowing too much stress to focus right on the knot during installation. I cut out the snapped knot with the scarf joint jig, epoxied the rail back together, and was able to re install the rail the next day. The thwarts and yoke were then rough cut from teak using the band saw, shaped with a wood rasp, and hand sanded.
For both overall strength and appearance, I used oak dowels in the joints instead of metal hardware to attach them directly to and in the same plane as the inwales. The dowels are very snug, but the meeting faces between the ends of the thwarts and the inwales aren't perfect -- another good point for epoxy. Installed the thwarts and allow the canoe to settle into its final shape over a couple days. The side walls had sagged outward since coming off of the forms.
The thwarts pulled them in a few inches. Some people seem to get a little excited over precision in these and similar steps. But the truth is that, on an 18' boat, a few 32nds of an inch in width or sheer height don't make any perceptible difference whatsoever. Some makers have commented about thwarts and seats getting rammed through the hull walls during compression, so all such components have been designed on my build so that cannot happen. For example, the thwarts are level with and blend directly into the inner rails mortise and tenon, dowel and biscuit joints will do , and the seats butt up against and are supported by vertical ribs instead of hanging from the rails.
This way, none of the internal components are in a place where they are likely to pop through the hull in the event of a side compression. Chiseled, planed and sanded the ends at the sheerlines in preparation for the endcaps. I don't care for the appearance of the stems' endgrain showing though, so have designed the endcaps to go over the top of the stems and rails. The "decks" -- or what I am calling endcaps, since "deck" really doesn't apply to them -- are teak, too.
Hand carved to blend into the overall shape and rails. The ends of the outer rails were curved up above the sheer line during installation, and the excess planed off so they could mate up with the caps. Installation was a little more frustrating than I hoped. I roughed in the curved top side of the caps before epoxying them in place. It would have been easier to clamp it if I had left the top square, glued it in place, then shaped the cap while on the boat.
The clamps couldn't get a good grip on the curved surface and tended to slip off. These caps serve an aesthetic purpose and act as a grab-point for lugging the canoe. But they were a bit of a pain to make. I'm thinking about alternatives on the next canoe.
Now that these are on, it "looks" almost finished. I have mixed feelings about that. On one hand, it is a relief and exciting because I look forward to taking it out; but on the other, I have really enjoyed making it -- it has been fun to do a little on it each day -- and don't want that to end. What this all means is that I have been purposefully stretching it out here towards the end. Rounded the edges of the rails and blended them in with the thwarts and caps and began finish sanding in preparation for a final light coat of epoxy, then varnish.
Finally burned up the brushes on my Dewalt orbital sanders after a few years of heavy use. Replacement brushes were cheap, but I also used it as an excuse to purchase a couple reconditioned sanders from one of my favorite tool companies, Ridgid. The Dewalt ones have been fine, with only a few complaints. Their dust bags are held on by a friction-fit o-ring and sometimes they fall off.
They seem to me to be noisier and have more vibration. I've had to replace several hook and loop pads and speed brakes, too. But they were also better at collecting and trapping dust than the equivalent Ridgid models. I don't know that I could say one actual sands better than the other. The quality of any completed wood project is the combination of several factors: good original design, quality materials, accurate construction, surface preparation and final finishing.
Rush or skimp in any area, and it will remind you of it for the next several years. One place where this has been painfully evident to me on this project is in the preparation for varnishing. For everything else I make I usually use a penetrating Danish Oil finish; the key to any oil finish is prior surface preparation because any imperfections are amplified when the oil goes on.
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