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Wooden Rowboats For Sale. Comments Comment is pending approval. Trackbacks Use trackback on this entry. Author:Boat Welcome to FC2! Category: None Put down some polyethelene sheeting. Epoxy does not cure to polyethelene. Usually with the stitch and glue method you do the inside first. I did it a little different. My way worked. Just saying. I started with what i will call "tacking".

Cause its kind of like tack welding metal in spots to hold it together. If you haven't read about stitch and glue its gonna get confusing for you.

Duct tape along all the inner seams where there are no braces. I marked along the outer seams where there are no braces with pencil. Wet out the seams with epoxy. Wait about 45 mins, and the epoxy should be sticky but still "wet". Mix up a batch of epoxy putty.

I bought an epoxy putty mix rather than mucking about trying to thicken it myself. Once the initial epoxy is sticky mix up some putty and apply it to the wetted out areas.

I gave it a flat fillet rather than a rounded one, and planned on going over these tacks with a proper fillet afterwords. I tried to make a little drawing of what i did.

The fillet is not rounded. Once this has cured fully you can remove all your braces and it should hold its shape. Then you duct tape all the rest of the inner seams. Like i said i let the tacking cure fully. I gave it 48 hours to be certain. Now we can finish the outer seams. I cut all the fiberglass tape strips i would need to length before hand and place them about the boat so that i would know where they go.

These fiber glassing sessions can get long and should always be done all at once. Try not to epoxy fresh layers over cured ones. Fresh epoxy doesn't bond well to cured epoxy.

Luckily the paste from the tacking has a relatively rough surface which held really well to the finishing layers. The tacking that was done was fully cured and subsequent layers have a risk of not adhering well. Double check that all your inner seams have been taped, and that you have all your fiberglass tape strips ready to go.

Wet out the outer seams and make sure to put a thin layer over the tacking. For me, by the time i had worked my way around from one end of the boat to the other the area i had started with was sticky. Mix up putty, and lay a rounded fillet along all the seams and over your tacked areas. In the previous step i had a drawing of what a good finished seam should look like and thats basically how it should look. Lay the fiberglass tape along all the seams.

The putty should still be wet so you can kind of use the tape to shape the fillets. Now lay a final layer of epoxy Diy Rowboat For Sale Canada to the tape. Try to work out the air bubbles. This should be thought of as finishing work. Do whatever you can to make the seams nice. Cured epoxy is the the most irritating thing in the world to sand and shape.

The fiberglass tape should basically be see through. If you have any spots that are still white then you haven't wetted out the tape enough.

Now let it cure. I ended up waiting about a week, mostly i didn't have time to put in. But generally hours is more than enough. So flip the boat! Remove the duct tape. You can now see what i meant about the center brace being a strip. The cut out piece was really helpful while tacking and finishing the outside but is no longer needed. In fact it probably could have been removed all together at this point and i would have had an easier job of epoxying the inner seams.

So this is a lot like the last step. Pre-cut all your fiberglass tape. Lay down a layer of epoxy along the seams. Let it get sticky. Lay down a pretty fillet of the epoxy putty. Lay the fiberglass tape along the seams. Again this is basically finishing work, and you can use the tape a little to shape the fillet.

Lay a layer of epoxy over the tape making sure it wets out fully. So i added a strip of wood to the bottom along the length in the hopes of making it go straighter in the water. Next time i would have put this in before any of the epoxy work or left it off completely.

To make it i cut a strip of 1x4 in half lengthwise and screwed the two bits on. I then epoxied them and filled the gap with putty, and put a little fillet on the outer edges. I think it looks like crap. Partly because i was using the last of my putty so i didn't have enough to do it as well as i thought. I think it did help it to move better in the water. Also i would have sealed the hull at this point.

I decided to add seats and some other stuff before sealing. Not wanting to boat alone i added seatS! I put the rowing seat just towards the butt end side of the center brace and a passenger seat right up at the front.

The middle one works all right but even a small person sitting right up at the front dips the bow into the water quite a ways. A better plan would be to put a passenger seat right up against the butt end and the rowing seat a little forward of the center brace.

Also a cover over the bow section wouldn't hurt. Learn by my mistake. Also I made it so that the front seat was removable and the rowing seat was permanent, thinking i'd be able to remove the front seat and recline there to read or drink or something. I bought my oars and the pin dealies they attach to but for some reason thought i'd make my own oarlocks.

They work but some commercial ones might be better. Sanding was a bitch! I moved the boat onto my balcony onto a stand i made for it to rest on its side. I used a power sander at first but the clouds of dust prompted a visit from my building manager. Apparently my neighbours did not appreciate clouds of dust wafting over their drying laundry or something. The finished product looks like its got duct tape holding it together beneath the paint.

Like i've said at this point i was starting to cut corners so normally sealing it means painting the entire thing in epoxy. I only did the outer hull with epoxy. All done on the balcony. I painted 2 coats over the whole thing. Would have been easier without the rowing seat there. Battleship grey. Adds to the duct tape effect on the seams. I added some bits to the corners where the side pieces join the back and front peices with holes in them so i could have somewhere to tie a rope to it.

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Twin mercruiser engines, velvet drive transmissions with less than hours, clean and straight no dings comes with aluminium tri-axle trailer, freash water boat Make Other. Dive boat with forward pilot house, open rear deck, outboard motor powered - motor negotiable. Heavy gauge aluminum.

NOTE: Exact year of build unknown. Contact seller for more details. Make Rivtow. Model Camp Tender. Built by Rivtow as a passenger vessel and tow-boat.

V GM motor. Re-built twin disc clutch. Dry exhaust and keel cooling. Very heavy gauge aluminum. Currently used for pleasure. NOTE: Actual build-date unknown. Phone call preferred. Intrepid Cuddy This fishing machine has an incredible ride, regardless the conditions, they just do not make hulls how they used to. Completely updated in , all new wiring, cabling, rigging, LED lights, electronics, Verado steering, Verado controls, batteries and more.

Original owner, if interested contact me. I have original sea trial papers and much more literature on this magnificent machine. Boat had twin Mercury Verado HP, and is completely rigged for new ones. All harness, wires, cabling and controls are installed on boat, just the engines were removed. Top speed 65 knots. Contact: JC Cell: sixteen, twenty five. Ready for the summer. Can be viewed at Markley's Marina Essex, Md. Approximately 50 trouble-free hours were put on the boat the summer boating season of Prior to the boating season, installed new engine cooling pump and water circulating pump.

The engine generator was removed and was replaced with a new alternator. Also installed new Hawkeye digital depth sounder and thru-hull transducer. The steel exterior and interior have been painted with a 2-part epoxy paint see details. There are new steel roofs over the cabins and pilot house sections. Two new pilothouse doors have been installed as well as new plywood floors.

A complete restoration of the exterior and interior steel hull and topsides has been completed. The interior has a new plywood floor. According to a representative at Devoe, the Bar-Rust should be a good base coat for a variety of topcoats; Fuel system intact with new fuel filter system and new engine oil system.

Both upgraded with spin on type as opposed to canister type; Fuel consumption around 1 gallon per hour; very economical to operate; Helm station started which is designed to bolt into place in pilothouse; Hydraulic steering system; Six boat stands included; Boat was seaworthy prior to start of restoration.

All items to return to seaworthy status were retained.

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